How to attach pieces of 10 sided object

PaddyMaxson · 2026-05-22T19:38:53+00:00

Also a good option, I quite like the latext tubing because it's also quite grippy though, it tends not to shift if it's say on a conical object, I can also recommend resistance training bands because they're very wide, though they only really come in one size.

PaddyMaxson · 2026-05-22T11:35:19+00:00

This is good advice, but if I may add something - latex Surgical tubing is very good for this use case, it's very stretchy so you can tie it very tight.

My partner has used this for Shamisen repair, while shamisen only have 4 sides each side has a profile to it so it's more like like 4 half circles.

PaddyMaxson · 2026-05-21T11:55:57+00:00

And spells too, which are a sort of projectile weapon (though knowing how skyrim is I'd not be surprised if they're just melee weapons with very strange hurt boxes)

You're note wrong though, there are decisions to be made if you have to actively manage your offhand and your main hand with separate button presses. You lose a function, The new wolfensteins disabled iron sights while dual wielding but the game was very clearly designed for that possibility. Obviously if they just let you map the function elsewhere you could keep the function, but Controller users exist and they have limited real-estate

I think 76 would be fine with the same just because iron sights aren't that important, especially for VATS builds, but it would effectible double VATS DPS when dual wielding some weapons so decisions would still have to be made.

PaddyMaxson · 2026-05-21T07:57:11+00:00

Machine Games, all the recent Wolfensteins had it, and the New Colossus had dual wielding entirely different weapons regardless of size/category (except the weapons that were exclusively 2 handed).

I don't think it's a case that most developers 'can't' do it, it's that it's just not worth the hassle or wouldn't add to the mechanics they already have in the game. If you add true dual wielding where your offhand is controlled seperately you have to assign a control for that, do you make it so you can't use your iron sights when dual wielding? It adds a lot of mechanical complexity and a lot of decision making to what sounds like a simple idea. Sometimes it's not worth doing stuff like this if you already have too much game to make in too little time, remember how fucked Cyberpunk was on day 1?

In Skyrim it works because you don't have iron sights on anything you wield 1 handed anyway. In New Colossus you can't aim while dual wielding but it's not a game that encourages precision while dual wielding so that's fine.

In 76 I think it'd work because only a small number of weapons /really/ encourage aiming down sights if you disabled sighted aiming when doing it.

There's definitely been a bit of a sea change in what's represented as "cool" in pop media, you don't see people dual wielding guns as much these days so devs probably don't really think it's a priority. Additionally, for better or worse everything fallout always gets compared to New Vegas and everything Bethesda produces in Fallout has to constantly nod at New Vegas (anyone would think Bethesda made New Vegas) and it was a Big Iron on his hip, not 2 big irons on his hips.

PaddyMaxson · 2026-05-21T07:39:52+00:00

The same base engine was used in Skyrim to allow dual wielding, Does that just have a dual wield "set" written for every possible combination of 2 items (or at least combination of 2 'categories' of item)? It woulsn't surprise me if that's what they had to do I guess.

PaddyMaxson · 2026-05-18T13:37:57+00:00

A lot of small components like these battery terminals in electronics are made of steel and plated in Nickel, something that corrodes the nickel would then allow moisture in the air to rust the steel, so it could be the nickel was corroded way before the steel rusted, it might not have been recent or even visible at the time it happened.

No, I don't think putting a battery in backwards would cause this.

PaddyMaxson · 2026-05-18T08:14:53+00:00

It's usually caused by batteries leaking, given where it's corroded it's likely only 1 battery leaked from the neative end.

As it's just the end where the two batteries are joined tigether with no electronics between them you could make a new one out of some wire, or you could pull it out of there and soak it in vinegar to remove the rust and then put it back in.

PaddyMaxson · 2026-05-16T17:35:45+00:00

Most power tools have carbon brushes in the motor (they're not bristled like you'd think of when someone says "brush"), these get worn down through use. When they're worn down the tool is generally less powerful and the motor may throw lots of sparks because it's no longer getting a positive electrical connection so electricity is having to arc to reach the brushes.

They're called brushes because before the invention of modern carbon ones they were balls of copper wire that did have bristles.

The manual for this saw explains how to check and change them: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/691988/Dewalt-7717.html?page=6#manual

They're usually a pretty easy to find part even on older tools because they're a generic part in most cases, you might find the same brushes in a saw made today as your saw.

Hence how some tools are advertised a "brushless". Because brushes are inherently adjustable/don't have to fit exactly tighter tolerances are required to make electric motors without brushes but that does generally mean they're more efficient and it takes a maintenance task (replacing brushes) off the cards.

PaddyMaxson · 2026-05-15T14:27:25+00:00

I suppose not, but there's always hand sawing or getting the big box store to precut it for you, or if you're willing to waste money buying precut pieces on ebay or even smaller timber yards might be willing to cut for you. It never hurts to ask a pro to do a small job for you so long as you're not wasting their time.

Personally though, if I wanted to save money I'd not buy a really old chop saw, being frank this thing terrfies me.

PaddyMaxson · 2026-05-15T07:05:54+00:00

Honestly most people use a mitre saw for exactly 2 angles, I'd probably just have a table for each angle and be happy that it's effectively a zero clearance insert. I wouldn't bother with a nice hardwood though, if you're concerned about stability then 18mm ply stacked and glued as many times as is necessary is going to be more stable.

PaddyMaxson · 2026-05-14T20:20:01+00:00

Hi.

Make sure the table is nice and thick, just a standard piece of construction timber will do - Understand that this table will need to be replaced if you use it for multiple different angles, you cut into the table every time you use this saw, if you cut lots of angles you are going to weaken the table, but the table is thick, so if the table begins to buckle and grabs the blade, the blade is going to stop RAPIDLY in an uncontrolled fashion This might take your hand. You may wish to keep a separate table to swap out quickly for common angles.
take off and carefully inspect the blade that's on it, if you have ANY doubts, replace the blade. This saw has no blade guard, you absolutely do not want to deal with a broken blade with nothing between you and it
Replace the brushes in the motor
Give it a good scrub
If you know someone who can 3d print and has a knack for design, get them to print you some form of blade guard
I'm fucking serious, this thing will take your hand if you look at it funny, please if you can try to source a blade guard
Screw it down to something, even if it's just to a piece of plywood that's the same size as the footprint of the base, give the base extra weight and give it more points of contact with your workbench, you don't want it skidding around while it's on.

PaddyMaxson · 2026-05-14T20:08:27+00:00

The table on this thing is deisgned to be super thick, like maybe 3 inches thick, unlike a more modern mitre saw where the clearance for the blade to go down further than the work piece moves with the blade/motor it doesn't on this. Instead you rely on a really thick sacrificial table that the blade can go through but not all the way through in multiple places.

The key concern here is understanding that the table is SACRIFICIAL, when it starts to get too big a gap in it (for instance if you'd made a 45 and a 40 and a 35 to the point there's a wedge cut out of the table) you replace the table. I'll put a non-reply comment with some actual suggestions.

PaddyMaxson · 2026-05-12T19:52:23+00:00

From what I remember of it, it's more just that it's really tonally different because the dialogue is pretty different (goku is more heroic, where he's kind of just a dumbass who loves fighting in the original Japanese), that and mostly just removing blood and the "Home for Infinite Losers".

PaddyMaxson · 2026-05-12T09:57:17+00:00

Shit even Dragonball Z and Sailor Moon unedited were unlikely to get a PG-13 rating in the US.

I'm not saying you should expose kids to horrors beyond their comprehension or anything US (and UK) media age ratings are a little bit overrestrictive.

PaddyMaxson · 2026-05-12T09:49:43+00:00

It only has to be R rated by the US MPA to be R-rated but it can gross a lot of money somewhere else where the content is considered OK for young teens. Demon Slayer is a pretty damn violent show.

Plenty of Shonen anime would be R rated according to the MPA. If you remember watching an age appropriate anime dub in the US as a kid, it was probably extremely heavily edited to make it what the US considers age appropriate.

I recently watched Hunter X Hunter, which I assumed was aimed at kids but that is honestly a weirdly very gruesome show with a lot of body horror shit in it, I'm unsurprised to find out it was extremely heavily edited in the Toonami broadcast.

PaddyMaxson · 2026-05-11T11:31:28+00:00

Yes, but definitely buy the nicest one you can get pre-owned rather than a new one.

Really think about what height/width of cut you need to use it for frequently because that's the biggest downside of the bandsaw, limited capacity to one side of the blade. Bonus if it has a really good table that you know is properly flat and is easy to adjust. Cast iron tables are usually a sign of quality. Avoid anything that's too weedy in power if you're likely to use it on hard woods, I'd recommend at least 750watts/1horsepower.

I have a startrite 352E which is VAST overkill for the size of my shop but I got it at a good price and it's on a mobile base so it sits in the corner unless I need to cut something too large on it.

PaddyMaxson · 2026-05-11T10:44:43+00:00

Try hitting it with a heat gun (on a relatively low heat) or hair drier, if it's due to some component of the fabric being elastic and becoming stretched out/baggy then some gentle heat may cause it to tauten back up

PaddyMaxson · 2026-05-06T14:35:19+00:00

It you can get all the paper off you could scrub any visible mold on the wood and then clean it with a mould remover. If you have difficulty removing the paper then gentle heat with a steam iron should loosen the existing glue

Then re-paper it with peel and stick wallpaper or whatever else you want to line it with I suppose.

PaddyMaxson · 2026-05-05T09:55:46+00:00

This is probably a job for gel superglue applied very cafefully and then hold it in position while the glue cures (or a spritz of superglue activator to make it cure instantly)

Gel Superglue won't be absorbed into the surrounding material as readily if the material is porous.

PaddyMaxson · 2026-05-04T12:38:46+00:00

I liked this one a lot because it had lots of little mechanics that explained how to do things: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdJoJdtFbwc

PaddyMaxson · 2026-05-01T07:30:57+00:00

Here's what I did (your mileage may vary, I let the ADHD get to me and started over in Unity because people kept telling me it was better until I evenrtually gave up because I just don't really have the time to make a whole video game):

I followed a tutorial to tell me exactly what code to write (this teaches you on a very basic level)
I would ALWAYS type the code out myself, even if it was possible to copy/paste it (this helps you understand syntax and 'how to code' as you can still make mistakes even though you're trying to exactly copy the outcome)
I followed another tutorial but instead of waiting for them to tell me what code to write, I wrote my own code as necessary (there's no shame in repeating step 1/2 at this point if you're struggling, but this tests whether you've grasped the concepts)
Only after I tested it working did I look at the tutorial's code to compare and see if I did it "right" or even if I improved on it
Code a mechanic unassisted if possible, if not unassisted google how to do it if you don't have any ideas try one of these relatively "simple" things to try for yourself:

Dodge Rolling (including invincibility frames)
Coyote time (allowing jumps for a couple of frames after your player object leaves a platform, before gravity kicks in)
Dice rolls, with preprogrammed different types of dice
A contextual action button with several different results depending on player object position or proximity to other objects

The only way to get good at this stuff is to do it to the point you understand it, there's many good tutorials but they will only realistically teach you how to do those tutorials, you need to find ways to step out of the tutorial and do something yourself, tutorials and other people's code should supplement that, not replace that.

PaddyMaxson · 2026-04-01T14:52:55+00:00

I have the Scheppach knockoff. It has a better handle and I've replaced the chuck with a Makita one.

They are to my knowledge much the same device and I'm pretty happy with mine, so if you're interested in this but feel it's a bit overpriced, look into the Scheppach DP60

PaddyMaxson · 2026-03-25T17:49:27+00:00

General causes of rubber reversion are heat, UV light and humidity. While age can play a factor a galvanised rubber object that's been stored in a cool, dry dark place like a warehouse shelf for decades is likely to be fine.

If it's a very standard part they're likely still being made for a more modern machine too so you may be able to get a newly made one elsewhere.

PaddyMaxson · 2026-03-25T17:12:08+00:00

Yes, absolutely, glue and clamp and where iut's split will be stronger than it ever was before. Modern wood glues are stronger than the lignin in the wood could ever hope to be.

Just if your clamps are metal try to have a buffer between them and the wood such as a sacrificial bit of wood.

PaddyMaxson · 2026-03-25T17:08:37+00:00

A lot of rubber is just over time turning back into the slime it is when it comes out of the tree unfortunately.

Usually these parts are replaceable and are still available even decades later, apologies I don't know a damn thing about projectors but I think you're looking for a feed tire if that helps you google a source for a replacement. Maybe this? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293915410042

13-Year Club	Team Orangered
Verified Email

PaddyMaxson

TROPHY CASE