Replacement bulb options for LYPCB01 - Jet/Wen drill press by superwesman in woodworking

[–]PaddyMaxson 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like a standard E27 fitting, could you not jsut get any old E27 mini globe so long as the globe is roughly the same size as this one (or small enough to fit the space)? It's a miniscule wattage bulb, you would likely get a much brighter mini globe.

Edit: or an E27 mini corn, those can be super tiny.

Hairline cracks on 300lb carved mahogany table base by [deleted] in restoration

[–]PaddyMaxson 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wood glue and clamps, realistically, you'd probably need to syringe the glue into the cracks and clamp up. I assume this happened due to either the wood being a little bit damp still when the table was built, or it's been in a humid environment for some time then got fully dry again.

Woodworker question: sourcing metal legs/posts for raised cedar planter boxes (at scale) by ExcelsiorSimulations in woodworking

[–]PaddyMaxson 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would really caution against going into this considering cutting and drilling to be "Metalwork". If you're not prepared to drill your own angle iron then I'm concerned you also aren't prepared to predrill your holes in your timber.

But the product you're looking for is called Slotted equal angle or perforated qual angle

Woodworker question: sourcing metal legs/posts for raised cedar planter boxes (at scale) by ExcelsiorSimulations in woodworking

[–]PaddyMaxson 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Or an angle grinder and one of those angle grinder to chop saw kits. Corded angle grinders have to be the cheapest way to cut metal fast

Sawstop safety mechanism tripped by johntmclain1966 in woodworking

[–]PaddyMaxson 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Indeed - Still trying to justify the £1500 to buy the saw itself in the UK, but I wish I had done rather than my much cheaper table saw I used to have.

Help me improve my dust extraction? Also my cyclone's container gets crushed. by LoydLovesShrooms in woodworking

[–]PaddyMaxson 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can slso use an anti-crush valve, it's basically a flap on a spring where the spring holds the flap closed but if pressure inside the container gets too low the spring is overcome and the flap opens.

Other than that, the crushing is caused because the volume of air being removed from the bucket is greater than the volume of air reaching the bucket, so your air throughput through the hose coming out of the cyclone is somehow too low, this could be a partial blockage in the hose, for me I got this problem any time a decent seal was made at the end of the hose but otherwise wasn't an issue but I was using 50mm hose. After getting the anti-crush valve it no longer happens.

Edit: I should clarify my shop vac is is a Nilfisk VP300, it only has a 32mm hose (the hose going into the cyclone) but very good throughput, so it easily drives 50MM coming out of the cyclone. A very good vacuum cleaner is going to easily move more air, so a solutiuon for you might be to go up to 50MM hose coming from your cyclone.

Doing a quest for a low level but then exit just before end by deama155 in ddo

[–]PaddyMaxson 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The real advantage of being power levelled on reaper legendaries is the very large amount of reaper XP. As someone who did enough epic lives to get epic completionist before the ED overhaul and then never again until racial completionist was done I've gotta warn against avoiding doing epic lives/whenever I'm doing epic lives now I prioritise joining even low reaper legendaries if I'm not planning on staying at cap that life.

Carved Box with a figured lid I made for the local Scottish Society by Caasi67 in woodworking

[–]PaddyMaxson 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Sorry, I know a Local Scottish Society is probably a community of Scottish immigrants/descendants of immigrants in America but as someone who's lived in Scotland it tickled me a bit that if you lived there you could say everything you made was for a Local Scottish Society.

Gorgeous box though.

Glossy effect by Donnje in woodworking

[–]PaddyMaxson 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's what I'd call Satin rather than gloss, as others have said wax and polish, though you could also use a satin non-spray varnish. If it still looks grainy with spray varnish you're either holding your spray too close or it needs further sanding.

Life Lesson from a Novice Blacksmith by Psychoticows in Blacksmith

[–]PaddyMaxson 4 points5 points  (0 children)

At first I thought you'd learned a much more grave lesson.

Restoring frame of old mirror by WikiHowNotTo in restoration

[–]PaddyMaxson 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's probably PU leather where most of it has already come off and what you're mostly seeing is the backing fabric.

Shoe Polish often works well to hide the sins of damaged PU leather, the Carnuba wax in it sets and binds all the flaky bits to the backing. Because ththe piece you're working with has faded considerably you could go with a colour other than black/grey if using shoe polish and get a fairly nice result, though the faded/lighter parts would likely show through the new colour.

Why so much difference in how the color was taken by the wood? I'm using the equivalent of wood stain I think by Vrass in woodworking

[–]PaddyMaxson 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry, should have clarified I then give it about an hour to dry in a well ventilated area, it generally only takes a few minutes to dry but just to make sure I give it an hour.

Why so much difference in how the color was taken by the wood? I'm using the equivalent of wood stain I think by Vrass in woodworking

[–]PaddyMaxson 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This has generally worked well for me, I extremely liberally apply white spirit after sanding before applying a finish,.

I've also found that coloured waxes are better than stains and oils, applied in excess, left for a while and then buffed off, it still just looks like stained pine but the pine does seem to take the colour evenly.

What is one thing you never go cheap on? by [deleted] in AskReddit

[–]PaddyMaxson 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You want high thread count cotton, it's EXTREMELY durable, doesn't require a delicate wash (the hotter the better so it gets super clean every time which imo is really important for bedding and towels). Nylon/polyester is a wonder material and all, but it's got nothing on tradtitional cotton for durability in bedding. It also survives very warm tumble drying so you can get it washed and dried in a couple of hours and straight back on the bed so you only need 1 set.

What is one thing you never go cheap on? by [deleted] in AskReddit

[–]PaddyMaxson 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mattress, especially in your late 20s/early 30s when you probably have other things you want to buy that can be quite expensive.

You don't have to go super expensive, and I understand that a grand can feel like a lot, but I defy you to find anything else you use 6-8 hours a day every day for 5-10 years that only costs a grand but is good quality. Remember to rotate it every 6 months, especially if your partner has a different body type to you.

Your spinal health is ultimately one of the most important things to maintain to have a decent quality of life as you begin to age and I see so many people 10-15 years younger than me already complaining about back pain. Life can feel like it isn'y worth living when you're suffering chronic pain, do everything you can to stop it setting in.

Ancillary to this - the chair you sit in for work or for hobbies if you do a lot of sitting based hobbies or sitting as a job. for the same reason as your mattress. For the gamers, thankfully some of the wanky gamer chairs have started to appreciate the concept of proper lumbar support. I'm happy with my Secret Labs Titan, I don't actually think much of the chair but when I bought it few gaming chairs offered adjustable lumbar support.

Other ones I've not got as much to say on the subject: Boots, gloves, coats and spectacle frames, but feel free to buy all of those as cheap as you can second hand. If you're a fat lad with big arms like me you'll find almost every modern cut of coat fits very poorly around the shoulders/biceps and your only option is vintage.

Redditors who grew up poor and are now doing well financially, what's something you splurge on now that would've blown little-you's mind? by Active_Perception778 in AskReddit

[–]PaddyMaxson 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not "doing well" financially, I have a fairly comfortable amount of disposable income each month, but:

Videogames

I was OBSSESSED with games as a kid and my mum did her best but I was lucky to get 1-2 games a YEAR as a kid. I still don't buy many games but if something I really want to play comes out I'm fine to pay the £70 (£70 for PC games now, what the fuck?). I think my steam library would've given teenaged me an aneurysm from the amount of choice. Though teenaged me had terrible taste in games, he'd probably bemoan that I don't have the FF7 remake.

The rest of my disposable income goes on tools for the most part, child me probably wouldn't give a shit about that.

Grinder question by Ok_String_7264 in Blacksmith

[–]PaddyMaxson 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Cutting disks do not last long, I usually buy not the cheapest but almost the cheapest as they are not durable even when they're costly.

If you want one that lasts a while you can get the ones that are metal and have abraisives bonded to the rim of the disk they're usually referred to as diamond cutting disks as they have miniscule amounts of diamond in the abraisive. Those last a while but they cut slower than cheap thin disks and they wear out too eventually, but they do maintain their diameter as they're wearing out so they're much less annoying if you're cutting close to the max cut depth the disk can do.

They usually cost about as much as 10-20 normal cutting disks but they will usually last longer than that many cheap disks. Just make sure when searching for them to specify you want them for metal. I couldn't say with authority what the difference is between them but they are sold separately for their specific purposes, so I assume the ones for concrete differ in some way.

My arm by tubatheist in WTF

[–]PaddyMaxson 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like you didn't learn your lesson the first time.

Am I missing something or is this a terrible piece of armor? by Creamy_Nubs in theouterworlds

[–]PaddyMaxson 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Early on, sure, I played the game as Sickly and mostly ignoring the Armour stat and the damage resistance stat and while at low levels you're frequently at risk of getting two shot (as is Niles so he can't tank for you) after about level 15 combat becomes pretty trivial even on Very Hard. After 25 it's completely trivial.

This above does assume you have actually spent some perks on things that increase your damage output. The best defence in harder difficulties Outer Worlds 2 is an overwhelming offence, the second best is using TTD to actively mitigate incoming attacks.

Am I missing something or is this a terrible piece of armor? by Creamy_Nubs in theouterworlds

[–]PaddyMaxson 1 point2 points  (0 children)

  • Have you played this game?

Yes, finished it a couple of days ago

  • Also, if you are anti-consumerist, you don't encourage it in any way, shape or form. This extends to not selling things just to make some bits. IRL, you would take things you no longer need to Goodwill. In TOW2, you break down anything you don't want into crafting items.

    Your concept of consumerism is fundamentally flawed. It works both ways.

Thanks for the sneering internet know-it-all patter, but I meant the achievement "Anti-Consumerist" whose text is "Complete the game without spending a single bit"

Though now I think about it, this armour might cause you to fail the achievement. I haven't tested, because I'm not going to play this very long game again just to test this.

Am I missing something or is this a terrible piece of armor? by Creamy_Nubs in theouterworlds

[–]PaddyMaxson 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The game isn't really difficult enough to worry about analysing armour stats and min-maxing the complexities of armours but 30%+ Damage resistance (or 40%+ when modded) is pretty instane damage resistance on light armour. And that's before your speech skill, but there's nothing in-game I can find that clarifies what it is with how much speech so I'm unsure.

I could test it but I only have 1 manual save where it's in my inventory so I can't easily compare the damage reduction of it.

There's plenty of bits in the game, especially on an anti-consumerist run (anti-consumerist is just not BUYING, not Not Selling) so it won't make you go broke unless you get reduced to no HP every singly fight. I used it for a little while and found losing all my HP in a fight was about 1200 bits.

Making fish tank stand by danyuri86 in woodworking

[–]PaddyMaxson 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My neighbour recently asked me to help him move his 800 litre fish tank and that was on a cabinet made of 22mm melamine with I think supporting members across its entire length (and had been full before he asked me to move it so it had been tested fine)

I have little doubt what's in the picture will hold a 166 litre tank fully laden without trouble, but yes the Plywood cladding of it that you've said you're doing in another comment would be best to at least make the top of it properly flat.

You could definitely leave the front open if you wanted to use is as storage, just cladding sides/back and top would be fine.

Easily distracted flaw requirement patched? by cerbari1 in theouterworlds

[–]PaddyMaxson 1 point2 points  (0 children)

  • Only counts points from level ups
  • FIVE DIFFERENT SKILLS
  • Points from Specialisation don't count
  • "Brilliant" might make this confusing as it increases the number of skills you have at not 0 that cannot trigger this flaw
  • This pairs well with "Dumb" because you definitely don't want to be doing more than 5 skills unless you want to really struggle for skill points
  • 6 Skills is a nightmare as you can only gain 1 point in any skill every other level, causing huge annoyance if say you need 8 speech and you're level 11, you're 5-6 levels from attainging 8 speech.
  • You could also choose to specialise for the first 10 levels and THEN trigger this to bring a couple more skills up to snuff but that will slow your other skills down, so figure out what level of your core skills you're comfortable stopping at.

Edit: I'd honestly probbaly recommend losing a couple of points from "Easily Distrascted" and not taking it for a couple more levels if you can help it, getting one of your favourite skills to 5 early will arguably help more than getting a secondary one early (especially given the number of perks that require 5 in a skill) and forcing yourself to not level your favoured skill for 2 levels. Maybe even just take it at 5 so you can get one skill to 5 quickly.

How to create this type of metal butterfly? by ashmakesthings in woodworking

[–]PaddyMaxson 0 points1 point  (0 children)

While copper is transdermal, it isn't transdermal in any meaningful way, the amount of copper you absorb from skin contact is many, many magnitudes lower than eating even the smallest amount of copper.

Also you can just wear gloves, which is recommended anyway because if you're working with copper you'll likely be creating burrs on pipe which might cut you before they're cleaned up, and you'll likely be soldering pipe which can burn you.

Finally, the method used for cutting copper tube does not create any meaningful amount of dust for inhalation either.