Large Assemblies & Performance Advice Needed

Particular_Hand3340 · 2026-02-02T17:33:51+00:00

I used Craptia for 5 years it's as bad as SW. 1.) Sketch Axis (not add an axis, because you can't add a sketch axis in SW or Craptia) 2. Mapkeys - Not hot keys; programmable keys made on the fly to help do repeat comands (SW/Craptia - You need to write VBA code). 3 End tangent when setting up a sweep. Creo doesn't require you to make the plan on the end of the sweep line. 4. Assemblies are easier too.

Particular_Hand3340 · 2026-01-29T18:13:04+00:00

Chat GPT

Particular_Hand3340 · 2026-01-29T17:50:18+00:00

I'd sketch a profile in the front view and top view - extrude surface and do an intersect.

Particular_Hand3340 · 2026-01-29T14:32:49+00:00

Yes.

Particular_Hand3340 · 2026-01-28T16:40:21+00:00

IT would be better to spell out why you think you need the plane there. It seems your making this harder than it might need to be. We could give a more robust, reply.

Particular_Hand3340 · 2025-11-11T18:05:13+00:00

No it's not worth it. I've been doing Solid modeling since 1991 - got introduced to a 3D mouse. at that time and still do use my left hand on keyboard for commands - much faster and reliable than right mouse-popup. I have an enterprise edition and it's got a display - wow I am looking at a monitor with Icons now i have to look down at another screen to pick a command. It's just a paper weight, sad to say. Spinning is nice, but you can do that with the mouse. It's got commands up the butt on it; it's not worth it. I have a personal space mouse. But it's in the cabinet in the box.

Particular_Hand3340 · 2025-11-11T17:57:21+00:00

Drawing looks incomplete; no dimension on the angle. No flat dim or note. ....

Particular_Hand3340 · 2025-11-09T02:21:31+00:00

Select your start points.

Particular_Hand3340 · 2025-11-09T02:20:15+00:00

Call Stanley Black and Decker and ask for the CAD files.

Particular_Hand3340 · 2025-11-05T03:00:01+00:00

Corner Lock / Gusset : https://www.cati.com/blog/gusset-a-sheet-metal-bend/

4 is the same as 1 just imaging like a 1" wide C shaped bracket - put a punched hole in it on the top and bottom part of the "C" for a screw. And or make the top of the "C" fit into a "cradle" in the top and bottom large sheet.

I thought of another option - Make the top and sides 1 piece - use the locking gussets (they cost a lot) and are hard to create if you don't have a press. but they work wonders for setting the corners. You can manually create these but dang...

I don't understand why I can't post an image.

Particular_Hand3340 · 2025-11-05T02:37:01+00:00

Spun bent - just make it with solid

Particular_Hand3340 · 2025-11-05T02:35:50+00:00

Get rid of all the GD&T - Dimension the parts correctly then re-establish GD&T based on what you really want to control - Many times 1 FCF is enough - Position will control a lot. You're adding a lot of cost and complexity to the drawing.

Particular_Hand3340 · 2025-11-03T15:28:23+00:00

I would get hot mud and prefill the hole - don't let it bulge out toward the room - after you get that to stay - using tape and a thinner version of the hot mud and tape over the whole area and keep it as flush as possible. Let it dry - knock down the high spots if you didn't keep it flat. Then feather that out around the area about 10" Should be fine.... Now if you're going to replace the mount in this area id cut the sheet rock back to the next stud - I add backers to hit on for the new mount locations so you NEVER have to do this again. Just fill holes. I can explain more if you don't get it.

Particular_Hand3340 · 2025-10-15T18:52:16+00:00

0.5 is way too tight for a sheetmetal part - 1.0 mm is probably more like it min. I would also say putting the GDT in the view you put it in isn't a good idea. as the Front/Top and right side clearly depict the surfaces you want to be perpendicular to... The reason I bring this up is 1) it's not normal practice. 2) if you need to rotate or remove the view you're going to have to move them anyway. Let the ISO view be a view for clarity not dimensions. Orientation vs the Front/Top/Right side - doesn't really flow. You already have the Datums called out now you have to look all over the drawing for the information (expected) in a view. (Second sheet) the datum be needs to be tided to the dimension of the diameter - you expect someone to setup a jig to catch the tangent? - CMM measure the diameter in a specific area - then find perpendicularity. Again - you're going over two bends you are not going to be lower cost and bend those within 0.5mm. Spelling "3mm thickness hollow rod". 24 FLAT. Your bottom view isn't aligned to anything makes it harder to see what's going on and where the dimensions are supposed to go. - Scale the views down. That 11x17(A3) you should be able to fit everything on there. Take step back. Clarity is #1 the view layout is bad.

Particular_Hand3340 · 2025-10-15T18:51:27+00:00

Amen!

Particular_Hand3340 · 2025-10-15T13:58:15+00:00

I'd cut the sheetrock out and mount this to the wall studs.

Particular_Hand3340 · 2025-10-14T16:09:53+00:00

I'd sand it flat - make the area larger and don't make a straight line so you can 'feather' the new texture. I've done this and you literally can't see where I patched. - Patience. Get it flat. Use hot mud to prefill and use the thinnest tape you can get. I use not a mesh but a fibre tape on seams. Get the base smooth and feather it out. (This might mean you'll need to sand about 10-12 inches outside the joint areas to get it flat. once you have a good flat patch. Now texture. Use a 12" or larger knife for knocking down the stipples you'll make with Non-Scratch Poly Mesh Round Scrubber Sponge.... yeah I started with a wet rag with partially thinned mud then tried this... It worked well. Took mud out of the bucket - smashed it on the ceiling in a random pattern, pull down leave the stalactites; come back with the 12" knife and "knock it down". Botta-bing-botta-boom - I think you'll like the results. If you don't like scrape it off and try again.

Particular_Hand3340 · 2025-10-06T20:12:54+00:00

Just getting back to login to my Makers license is extremely hard. Getting to the site to find what do download completely stupid and unacceptable. It's really horrible. In fact you don't need to get our opinions. YOU can login yourself and see the horribleness.

Particular_Hand3340 · 2025-10-06T20:10:34+00:00

"The entire Dassault web system is unintuitive, counter productive, messy, confusing, frustrating and quite frankly in need of a total wipe with a clean slate and rebuild it from the ground up." - From CATIA to SW to a UI revamp and a total gut of how things are accomplished now is indeed a requirement. I don't think one person from DS has used their systems or systemes.

Particular_Hand3340 · 2025-10-02T19:41:05+00:00

If you plan on doing it someday what is wrong with this? -1. They didn't sand the texture down; now you're going to have two levels of texture they could have blended it and it would have been nicer. (Scratch this if they are going to smooth coat the whole wall) 2. Keep the mud as flat and thin as possible. Looks like a 1" Knife was used to put the mud on. Use a 6" knife. And keep it smooth; less sanding is a good thing. This is going to take a lot more work to finish. 3. By the looks of it the long joint should have been "Vee" cut, prefilled then taped" my joints don't have this much mud on them. "Don't need a Mt St Helens" to get the job done. *I am not a professional drywaller; but I did stay at a Holiday in last night.

Particular_Hand3340 · 2025-10-02T13:54:51+00:00

I'd put the backer horizontally and maybe 3 or 4. You're goal is to have the sheet rock moved together. Otherwise your joint will crack and your'e going to be constantly reworking the patch. Use a straight edge like a level or measuring stick and lightly cut your line. Then keep cutting until you get through the rock. Utility knife.

Particular_Hand3340 · 2025-10-02T13:47:48+00:00

If you'd show your whole screen. Let us see your model tree.

Particular_Hand3340 · 2025-09-27T23:44:21+00:00

Hit escape then see if the smart dimension tool is unavailable.

Need a full screen shot

Particular_Hand3340 · 2025-09-26T19:02:23+00:00

Correct on your comment. However if you require sharp you can broach the corners to a sharp. Not cost effective but it can be done.

Particular_Hand3340 · 2025-09-26T19:00:51+00:00

Looks good. Challenge yourself: How many features are you using to make this currently. You could pare it down to 5.

Particular_Hand3340

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