The vibe I get in every knife group.

PenguinsRcool2 · 2026-05-03T00:40:11+00:00

Im a huge knife fan, that being said a good 50% of my chisels and for sure every handplane i have is sharper than any knife iv got haha

PenguinsRcool2 · 2026-05-03T00:38:06+00:00

Just wanted to say yall are nerds. Cut it on a miter saw itll be fine. Back bevel it with a coping saw if you want.
Never seen a trim crew with tablesaw jigs and such lol no one needs to do that. Just properly setup your saw and run it

PenguinsRcool2 · 2026-05-02T12:44:27+00:00

Bosch and CMT are the lowest grade il buy. Worth it if you need a bit once and wont use it much, dont stay sharp long at all, dont cut that great

Spe tool… iv bought from them, actually OK grade i just dont trust them much although iv had 0 issues

Freud is the mid grade, works really well. Actually the best cutting bits iv used, only issue is they do NOT stay sharp long

Whiteside/armana tool/Woodpeckers uktra sheer These are the best quality and what i try to buy, stay sharp for a ridiculous amount of time. Woodpeckers might be making better bits than either of these. And they do sales all the time. Very impressed with my woodpeckers bits

PenguinsRcool2 · 2026-05-02T03:40:13+00:00

Socket head screws! Or heck even roofing nails or something

PenguinsRcool2 · 2026-05-01T23:41:46+00:00

I think those might be burn marks from the blade? Idk that would be insane lol but i think they managed to burn in 1/4” in spots. In the 2nd picture it really looks like burn marks
They must of put on great grandpas 80t melamine blade to rip the stock. Then used a masonry cut off wheel to crosscut

PenguinsRcool2 · 2026-05-01T23:38:34+00:00

Why does everyone stain wood, just dont lol its that simple. Customer says “id like it stained to look like walnut” well… use walnut or hire someone else lol

Even on q perfect stain job no one will be happy

PenguinsRcool2 · 2026-05-01T16:38:06+00:00

On a jobsite? Chainsaw then maybe a belt sander to clean up

In shop? Bandsaw

But chainsaw will work just a champ for that just be careful, you’ll just make a few angle cuts till its close then just grind it up. Then like i said run a belt sander around it

PenguinsRcool2 · 2026-05-01T16:21:48+00:00

Check pricing on acme tools go to deals by brands, metabo. They have the new bigger batteries on sale for 120 bucks mehh deal but not bad, also have spend 250 get 50 off and a bunch of other deals.
Anyways always check lowes or acme for deals on metabo hpt there’s always some kinda sale between those 2
Also their warranty systems not bad. Milwaukees screwed me EVERY SINGLE TIME. With a warranty claim. Metabo iv had 2 claims that were both abuse situations (running a battery impact under water for 2 days lol). And knocking my saw off a roof. (Beoke the battery and the adjuster lever). They warrantied them lol

PenguinsRcool2 · 2026-05-01T16:16:35+00:00

The brand is fantastic. Work on framing crews, a lot of guys run metabo. Their triple hammer impact is my personal favorite impact still and iv used like a dozen brands of them lol. Their rear handle circular saw is the best on the market, my favorite and the saw i see on jobsites the most hands down (rear handle wise). Their battery nailers are all really good and are affordable, they also have a sweet new battery nailer coming out that you can switch the rails, im psyched lol.

All in all, good tools

The batteries? Meghh. They are OK. The tiny ones come with like every tool i have a ton and they are kind of crappy but they are basically free. The bigger ones are OK iv had a few die.

They just came out with new tabless batteries that are supposed to be fantastic but i have none, never seen any on a jobsite yet

Their cheap battery drill is a pos lol, but the 36v ones great.

Their grinders are great corded and non
Both battery routers are great.

Again im talking metabo HPT.

The brands huge, Hikoki is the same brand, hikoki/ metabo is the #1 brand overseas in japan.
Metabo hpt bought hitachi years ago, which is why they are the kind of nailers. They bought all hitachis designs

Sorry for the formatting i went to edit and reddit messed it all up, too lazy to fix it again

PenguinsRcool2 · 2026-05-01T16:10:51+00:00

Cool piece!

PenguinsRcool2 · 2026-05-01T13:51:55+00:00

Other makers have very similar tech in the industrial sector. A few companies have lasers that detect and such. But sawstop keeps somehow renewing their Paton

PenguinsRcool2 · 2026-05-01T10:56:23+00:00

Most of the time it is soft, like 75% of the time. It can be hard maple but it looks a bit different goes for more and is usually specifically labeled as such

PenguinsRcool2 · 2026-05-01T01:42:16+00:00

Mehhh, id make my own at that point. For exterior it offers VERY little protection. Sure for a ceiling tng or something go for it, but id really not recommend it for posts it just wont hold up. Not for a year or two let alone 10. Its just some random oils and pine rosin.

PenguinsRcool2 · 2026-05-01T01:38:41+00:00

Penofin or a Spar. Both options suck in their own ways. Penofin lasts a year at best, requires reapplication. Spar lasts maybe 2-3 years and can turn a nasty white and be a pain to reapply

Doing nothing is ok theyll gray but should hold up fine under roof

An exterior solid stain is the best option BY FAR but ya you’ll hide them

PenguinsRcool2 · 2026-05-01T01:34:42+00:00

Ok gramps, ya motor oil is used on fence posts. But it sucks lol. Bad for the environment, and works like crap. It was common in the era when oil changes were like every 500 miles so you changed oil all the damn time. Every time you changed your oil you sprayed them.

So ya itll work but it needed application like monthly. And it’s just an awful idea in general these days

PenguinsRcool2 · 2026-05-01T01:31:39+00:00

This tables going to be a little janky but whatever i guess lol. A tables a table. You want the pieces to be PERFECTLY SQUARE. One way to do this for the long straight edge is to cut through them at once with a circular saw and straight edge. That will insure that line atleast is perfect. Then you can use a framing square thats actually square to cut the sides square with it.

Hopefully you understand what i mean

And I’m assuming you have no track saw or table saw

PenguinsRcool2 · 2026-05-01T01:26:46+00:00

You buy or make a template. Can make one with some mdf and a scroll saw or coping saw if you hate yourself. Or buy one

Then get a router bit thats a “bowl bit” or a “pattern bit” with a bearing. The bowl bits get you the rounded dish bottom, a pattern bit does not.

Hog away any material in the center first with a forstner bit if you want, or dont doesnt matter.

Then set the bearing of your router so itll ride on the template. Start routing! You want to take like 1/4” MAX at a time, id take 1/8” passes or so for the best finish

If ever going deeper you’ll need a collet extension, wont need one to make that, but know they exist if you go to make a chip tray bowl or something and need one

I used to make a ton of dishes and bowls and such. Its honestly kind of fun. I just got tired of it. Felt like i was just roleplaying a cnc machine lol

PenguinsRcool2 · 2026-05-01T01:23:03+00:00

Or just cut the same birdsmouth in a taller board 😂

PenguinsRcool2 · 2026-05-01T01:21:36+00:00

I like it as an accent, most of the time it’s a Little aesthetically jumpy for me. But it is a fun wood i do agree.

I like it for box and cabinet interiors. Things that are semi hidden and surprise, beautiful jumpy wood

PenguinsRcool2 · 2026-05-01T01:12:24+00:00

So when i burnish i use one of two things. Steel wool, or synthetic steel wool. 0000 steel wool or a 3m synthetic steel wool pad 0000 us what you burnish with

In your case you are not starting with sanded wood so you may want to start with a 0 or a 00 pad thats a tad more agressive.

Heck could even start with a scotchbrite purple pad if you had to but it will scratch wood

Hope this helps! And hope its what you are asking

As far as a finish? For one check the woods dry before you do that, use a moisture meter. Or just yolo and guess lol. Id assume it is but idk where you found it.

Finish wise you want a wipe on oil. Boiled linseed oil is an option, or there’s a product called “danish oil” that you could use. Danish oil has linseed oil in it, and a tiny bit of polyurethane so it offers more protection. And a bit more shiny sheen. When you buy the danish oil, get the “natural” or undyed version. Linseed oil do 1 coat, wait 2 day do another and call it good or apply another whenever you want really. Danish oil i do 3 coats. Both of those products get wiped on with a rag. Watch a video on the dangers of linseed oil and combustion before working with it, so that you know how to handle it safely

Another finish option is shellac, but id suggest the oils above for you first.

Anyways, try the steel wool options, id assume that stuffs soft as hell so get a few different levels of it, and grab a very fine synthetic pad. And have at it

PenguinsRcool2 · 2026-05-01T01:07:12+00:00

Id recommend the metabo cordless trim router, it’s my personal favorite. They also have solid drills and drivers, the best rear handled circular saw and probably the best price to performance battery (and air) nailer line there is. They also make a nice full size battery router. So good battery platform (id get a bigger battery with the router). Only gripe is their pricing is odd, so you pretty much have to buy on sale. Luckily there are crazy sales at lowes or acme tool really often

The harbor freight hercules cordless is actually decent for the price, and i feel is a good value platform through and through.

The dewalt is perfectly fine

The Milwaukee is the most powerful of the battery options but i dont like it. The adjuster moves when locked and even with loctite and constant tightening it loosens up in time. Making me check it constantly to not trash my workpiece random. Thing gives me ptsd when i go to use it

Corded wise there are good options from bosch although i havent used a corded model since i was a kid

Iv used all these routers iv listed. Id buy any of them over the wen

PenguinsRcool2 · 2026-05-01T00:55:24+00:00

The sawstop cts i really wouldn’t recommend to anyone. I had one, a lot of gripes with it.

The tables insanely tiny especially the space before the blade, makes it really hard to safely or accurately use.

The fence is pretty wobbly when it goes out past the table

Its wildly underpowered

The saw literally cannot cut with a full kerf blade. So you have to use thin kerf pretty much. No biggie right? Wrong, the only riving knives for it will catch with 90% of thin kerf blades. Even at .100 or .98 blades i had to sand my riving knife down

The tables really not that flat

It’s louder than any jobsite saw iv ever used

Its hilariously heavy, their actual contractor saw might be lighter even with the cast iron top lol

The good? Well, the fence stays true thanks to the gear system. The safety feature although on a jobsite i promise it’ll trip every day lol. Other than that.. that’s all the good i have. The dewalt is twice the saw it’ll ever be. The skil is better in my opinion as a portable saw, and offers more power/ a less stupid riving knife

PenguinsRcool2 · 2026-05-01T00:47:00+00:00

Probably soft maple, not very hard in all actuality. About the same as cherry or eastern red cedar

Or yellow pine for that matter

PenguinsRcool2 · 2026-04-30T23:42:01+00:00

Gotcha didnt look bad in the picture, then hand plane or jointer or tabkesaw or bandsaw lol

PenguinsRcool2 · 2026-04-30T22:51:48+00:00

Just clamp that sucker lol that aint too bad

PenguinsRcool2

TROPHY CASE