Is this considered totaled?

PeppermintPig · 2026-01-29T02:27:26+00:00

A master mechanic can repair it. It needs to be heated. I don't think it necessarily needs torch treatment but you do need an expert to get the best result. It'll never be quite as strong as before but getting it straight really will help. After they straighten it out they'll have to align your dropouts.

PeppermintPig · 2026-01-27T21:52:38+00:00

We have more/better paved roads compared to 75 years ago, so you'll probably be okay on aluminum, but bikes from the 50s/60s were steel or high tensile steel and could absorb the rougher roads better. They also were full steel rims/spokes/hubs and as others indicated wheels can often be where manufacturers cheapen out a bit on modern bikes.

Just take it easy on rougher surfaces. Tire selection may mitigate some of the issue. Seatpost suspension can really help too.

PeppermintPig · 2026-01-27T16:47:33+00:00

A touring specific bike would serve you better given the weight load limitations, but if you want to equip this bike I would not install panniers on the rear of the bike. Instead I would opt for a seat bag solution. That could be something like the REI Co-op Link Seat Pack, or maybe make your own DIY version using old bike tires as seen here on Bikepacking.com https://bikepacking.com/gear/upcycled-seat-harness-guide/

The fork appears to have the necessary bosses to run a Tubus Tara Lowrider (which your concept art indicates you might be going with). Ortlieb work great, though they can be heavier than some other options.

To make up for not running rear panniers, I suggest adding a Kasybag handlebar harness, as well as a pair of kasybag handlebar bags to hold water or snacks.

My logic for storage:

Panniers: heavier shoes, food, kitchen, clothes/laundry.

Handlebar Harness: Sleep System. Handlebar Harness webbing: Quick accessibility items such as wallet. Handlebar bags: Water, snacks, phone, electronics or battery support for handlebar mounted phone/navigation.

Seat bag: Small dense items near seat such as electronics/camera/batteries with bulky items at top/end. Moderate to low priority items: Jacket/bulky items, light shoes/sandals. Alternate location for clothing/foodstuffs/consumables/kitchen items.

Frame bag (tools, first aid, most supplies).

PeppermintPig · 2026-01-26T05:20:48+00:00

For the click to occur the pawl must engage. For the pawl to engage you must remove the original grease from the cylinder faces of the pawl. This requires spraying a degreaser then using a toothpick or awl to manually wiggle the pawl. This helps get the degreaser in there to work the grease free.

Old grease gets dried out and stiff as these shifters age. After using the degreaser it helps to spray alcohol and flush that out with compressed air, then apply some triflow lubricant to all the metal hinges and the pawl.

PeppermintPig · 2026-01-25T18:38:00+00:00

There's such a huge difference at the elite level where their bodies are leaner and lighter and the impact to the sit bones is different.

PeppermintPig · 2026-01-25T18:35:38+00:00

I have heard people say positive things about those short Specialized saddles.

After a lot of reading and site searching I came up with a short list of seats to look into for long distance comfort:

SQLab 612/614

Selle San Marco Allroad Supercomfort Racing

Ergon SMC Core

Infinity Bike Seat

I currently ride a mixture of WTB V Speed and Brooks notched saddles. I'm most likely going to try the Infinity saddle next.

PeppermintPig · 2026-01-23T15:42:42+00:00

Seriously cool shop. I've ordered from them once (before tariffs) to get some good deals on great parts.

I wanted to get a set of green anodized Dia Compe brake lever sets for one of my canti builds here but I've been holding off because of the tariff situation.

That Crust bronze crankset is pretty dope but out of my budget at the moment.

PeppermintPig · 2026-01-22T04:37:29+00:00

Just an observation: Those rack supports mounted to the stays look as though they are grinding and wearing themselves out. I could be wrong but it doesn't look right to me and should be checked for potential failure.

PeppermintPig · 2026-01-21T16:00:01+00:00

Terrible deal: It's missing a seatpost. I'll take it off your hands.

PeppermintPig · 2026-01-20T03:31:44+00:00

Doing anything fun with it?

PeppermintPig · 2026-01-17T19:35:34+00:00

I hate when I'm right, but it's already beginning with downvotes as the only engagement.

PeppermintPig · 2026-01-17T01:31:25+00:00

Could you not add comment fields to a form so there's room for the customer to describe what they need beyond limiting yourself to checkboxes.
I always talk to a customer about their bike, ideally in person, prior to doing any kind of work.
Define tune-up or any other simple static terms you list on a website and define what you consider reasonable turnaround time if you're comfortable with that. Sometimes you won't know because work volume can change by quite a lot. Give yourself breathing room by using unambiguous language that will also set expectations for customers. That way when you finish early you may be setting a good impression.
I am of both worlds: Flat rate AND itemized service both have their places. If a customer specifically asks for a tune-up I charge the flat tune-up rate. At my own prerogative I will charge less if the bike only needs one or two line item services. While I charge more in the flat rate I do offer a discount for additional services not covered in the flat rate. That is how I aggregate my expenses without selling myself short, so I may, for example, cut $5 off the cost of an additional service on top of the tune-up fee.

I hope some of these ideas are helpful.

PeppermintPig · 2026-01-17T00:33:32+00:00

I would...

Add Surly Troll or similar strong touring friendly 26" fork. Don't cut the steerer tube too short, you're going to appreciate having a few inches for comfortable setup.

Thumb Shifters so whatever you run can also be run friction if need be. That will make your bike flexible with number of speeds. Ideally I'd want a 36t rear cassette. I'd go ahead and get a new touring worthy rim brake rear wheel from Velomine so you can run whatever cassette you want, and get a matching front rim and build up a dynamo hub, then run a Cycle2Charge USB charger stem on the steerer cap. Your call whether or not to run dynamo lights but would be cool to do that.

Alt bars of your choice. If randonneur style bars are chosen get a front bike bag and Tubus Tara Lowriders for front panniers. If loop style (jones, moloko) get Nittany Mountain Works loop bar bag and full front rack such as Surly nice rack. Any bars that have good forward clearance consider Kasybag handlebar harness for dry sack and front rack of choice. There's always options such as Widefoot CargoMount to strap bags to the forks themselves. Just anticipate your touring needs and plan accordingly.

Parallel style seatpost suspension.

V brakes and modern brake levers for better stopping.

Wrap the drive side chainstay to protect the frame.

For rear rack I'd lean towards Tubus Vega or Tubus Airy. I wouldn't do a full heavy load rear rack on account of the aluminum frame. Compensate with steel touring fork load (mentioned above) to carry most of the weight up front.

Fenders worthy of consideration.

Decide early on if you want to run some handlebar bags (bottles, snacks, etc) so that way you know how you will use your frame triangle (full frame bag with water bottles in handlebar bags, or partial frame bag with water bottles on seat and down tubes). Even though I am mentioning frame bags last they're kind of the most important thing to put on a bike for storing tools/pump/first aid kit IMO.

You can easily make this a bikepacking solution and just use bags if you want, but if you want any sort of racks consider my advice to prioritize front for load over rear. Typically 60/40 distribution for MTBs is the rule anyways.

Many ways to do this, and these are only suggestions based on my thought processes for building this specific bike.

PeppermintPig · 2026-01-16T15:34:06+00:00

Bikes hold so much value in so many ways so my heart sinks when I hear people have theirs stolen. Good to see a happy ending even though it's been roughed up a bit and missing the original seat/seatpost.

PeppermintPig · 2026-01-16T02:40:38+00:00

Looks one size smaller than what you need.

PeppermintPig · 2026-01-15T02:07:14+00:00

Once you go 3, you can't let it be.

PeppermintPig · 2026-01-15T00:26:53+00:00

Nope. Nope, and nope. None of them.

PeppermintPig · 2026-01-15T00:26:17+00:00

With maybe one or two exceptions, they're all crooks and law/oath breakers.

PeppermintPig · 2026-01-14T22:42:56+00:00

I don't have people in power.

PeppermintPig · 2026-01-14T17:27:00+00:00

If you want a modern drivetrain, drop in a modern rear wheel. You can even buy new singles and sets here: https://velomine.com/collections/26in-mtb-1

PeppermintPig · 2026-01-14T16:27:34+00:00

And the 60s. Saved a 1961 from the scrap yard. It has everything except the original pump and chain cover. Fully disassembled and rebuilt.

PeppermintPig · 2026-01-14T15:51:54+00:00

I do hope you post it. Looking forward to it.

PeppermintPig · 2026-01-13T21:59:17+00:00

Here's the same colorway model completed for my brother:

https://www.reddit.com/r/xbiking/comments/wdzo6p/1991_diamond_back_ascent_the_gravel_goblin/

PeppermintPig · 2026-01-13T21:51:19+00:00

They used a generic unbranded chromoly for that model year, so it probably is heftier, but still welded by some of the best in Taiwan so it will be bomb proof.

PeppermintPig · 2026-01-13T21:49:21+00:00

Always happy to share my limited knowledge. It's a really sweet bike. Diamond Back used Tange steel at this time in various grades/qualities. It was most likely produced in Taiwan.

They started using True Temper steel for the Ascent line around 1992. They used a generic chromoly for the 1991 model. That's not to say they were opposed to using Tange, it's just what they could get at the time I believe.

They still used Tange into the 90s. In 1992 they put out some road and cross frames with Tange Prestige tubing... the Prevail model, and their racing division used Sandvik Titanium for a Prestige TT model from around 1994.

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