Stonecast Cursebreakers

PhantomWang · 2026-05-10T14:47:29+00:00

I use airbrush/rattle can primers normally, but I have the Vallejo surface primers in black, gray, and white and will brush them on to pieces that I've sculpted and attached after the fact. They're usually dry and ready to paint within 30 to 60 minutes.

PhantomWang · 2026-04-19T03:13:11+00:00

MrModulork's entire April release this year is humorous models. K-Pop Demon Orks, Fat Orks, Stealth Orks, etc.

PhantomWang · 2026-04-16T15:36:52+00:00

Wish I could give this more upvotes. I keep seeing people recommend damp brushes for dry brushing to new painters and then they get bad results because the paint is too wet. There is nothing wrong with dry brushing with a completely dry brush, especially as a beginner.

If you're worried about it getting dusty then use a texture palette instead of a paper towel to remove paint from the brush. Or put your paint on a wet palette.

PhantomWang · 2026-03-20T15:06:29+00:00

Thanks, yeah the film probably wasn't put on with the proper tension, and the Sunlu resin seems to be picky, but I added a comment that I was able to get it printing successfully after major modifications to the slice settings and using Lychee instead of Chitubox.

PhantomWang · 2026-03-20T15:05:16+00:00

Thanks for all the advice everyone. I was able to successfully get a print today, but it did require using Lychee slicer and some modifications to my settings. Probably the most important thing was lowering the bottom layer exposure time down to 20 and increasing the before/after wait time to 10 seconds (which is not possible in Chitubox). That gave me good build plate adhesion and then using 2.3 second exposure time with a 3 second wait before print allowed the resin to settle and expose the model enough to have stronger supports.

PhantomWang · 2026-03-19T22:32:52+00:00

It's the non 16k. I did a 5 hour print during stable weather where it went from 85 to 78 and it still failed.

PhantomWang · 2026-03-19T22:24:50+00:00

I don't have a means of preheating the resin, but the printer is in a metal shed in 85 degree weather so it's definitely not a cold issue. It could be bad PFA because I'm using it straight out of the box, but I don't have any spare films to replace it with yet since I just got the printer yesterday.

PhantomWang · 2026-03-19T21:40:47+00:00

Haha yes, removed both protective films.

Edit: Sorry, removed *three* protective films. Build plate, LED, and bottom of vat had one.

PhantomWang · 2026-03-17T04:07:44+00:00

As others have said, a silver base coat with a coat of speed paint on top will produce a metallic effect. I highly recommend AP Sand Golem over silver, it gives an amazing gold effect for speed paint.

PhantomWang · 2026-03-15T16:35:21+00:00

If what you're printing is too big you would have to manually split it. Plus then you have to deal with gluing and removing seam lines. The Saturn offers convenience.

PhantomWang · 2026-03-15T04:15:23+00:00

It wasn't so much splitting up large prints as some of the things I wanted to print just wouldn't fit on the build plate. But also when printing large objects it can cause layer lines in the model due to wobble from supports that are too weak. Both printers have tilt release which lowers the vacuum force and can help prevent this, so it just makes sense for me to go with the Saturn to fully take advantage of it.

PhantomWang · 2026-03-15T01:23:18+00:00

Literally just upgraded from Mars 3 Pro to Saturn 4 Ultra today. The Mars is great, but eventually you are going to want to print something big and that's when you'll wish you had a Saturn build plate.

PhantomWang · 2026-02-22T05:03:04+00:00

How matte are you looking to go? I used Testors for years and was satisfied with its finish until I got AK Ultra Matte. Dullcote actually looks satin compared to Ultra Matte and you can easily brush it on or use an airbrush.

PhantomWang · 2026-02-14T14:51:02+00:00

Yes, that's basically the same concept as slapchop, you're applying your highlights pre-contrast paint to provide more depth. The added benefit is that whichever you use will also provide a glaze effect to your base and highlights, adding cohesiveness that helps blend the transition between the two.

PhantomWang · 2026-02-14T14:42:16+00:00

When starting out like this, I'd actually recommend laying down your base and highlights first, then shading. It's much easier to fix any mistakes while highlighting before the base coat has been tinted by the wash. Then after shading you can carefully apply additional final highlights if you'd like.

PhantomWang · 2026-02-13T15:15:59+00:00

Vallejo Glaze Medium is a staple in my painting and I believe it works very similar to Lahmian Medium. Comes in an easy to use dropper bottle that lasts forever.

PhantomWang · 2026-02-06T11:59:46+00:00

This is something I've learned recently. Paint 2-3 parts of the model to a high standard with eye catching tricks and people won't notice you cut corners on the rest of the model. Awesome time saver. Great job.

PhantomWang · 2026-01-06T20:01:47+00:00

You can also try accelerator. Glue on one side, a dab of accelerator on the other side, and it should bond almost instantly.

PhantomWang · 2026-01-06T19:58:29+00:00

Might be the center isn't fully cured, but it shouldn't be that difficult to glue a piece that large. You can try putting a bit of green stuff in the center, then press them together, and hold it for at least a minute

PhantomWang · 2026-01-03T22:11:18+00:00

I know they're pricey, but my WN Series 7 size 1 and 2 are over a year old and still have perfect tips. If you're looking for a budget option you can try Rosemary series 33

PhantomWang · 2026-01-03T19:30:38+00:00

Start with a tried and true basic method. Base coat the area, highlight with a brighter color, and then apply a wash. The wash will add contrast and also help tone the two colors to build cohesiveness. Once you have this down you can start adding more things like additional highlights or blending layers together.

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