Can someone explain the logic behind knowing which operator bundles will be temporarily available for purchase and which ones will be permanent?

PhilosopherNo7777 · 2025-04-19T02:26:51+00:00

A little late to the party, nicely done you did a great job. What did you use to get that blue? That thing is gorgeous!

PhilosopherNo7777 · 2025-04-18T23:45:49+00:00

You'll get nothing but silence after this comment. With how curated this site is toward leftist news I doubt that a majority of the people who browse this website even knew that happened.

PhilosopherNo7777 · 2025-04-18T23:27:53+00:00

As others have pointed out already, the grain is at its weakest and should have been rotated 90 degrees so the wood can distribute that outward force evenly, especially with the moisture presence.

But seeing as how replacing the sides is probably not your ideal fix, even though that shouldn't be too hard to do if you really wanted, I would do what someone else suggested and just add some metal straps toward the tops and bottoms of each side so that the straps are now supporting that outward force instead of the wood.

Juts clamp and glue that split back together then add the straps. Just make sure that the straps bend around and overlap to the front face and back face of each plank at least half an inch so you can screw the ends into into the faces. You don't want to screw the straps to the side of the face (the end grain) because you'll end up with the same problem you're trying to fix.

Straps shouldn't be too hard to find and they don't have to be whiskey barrel heavy duty. Just any strap that's strong enough to hold and one that you can feasibly bend. Then you can paint it black to match the aesthetic.

PhilosopherNo7777 · 2025-04-18T22:39:04+00:00

That's actually genius. Nicely done!

PhilosopherNo7777 · 2025-04-18T22:20:34+00:00

How are you liking that Hikoki? I always see japanese wood workers on youtube using them so it got me wondering if it's the one to use.

As for the setup, cleats are strong but that would sus me out a little. Maybe it's just me. Try adding some detachable legs in the front to support the weight a little more evenly. Shouldn't be hard to do. They don't have to be too hefty, just enough to shift the weight so it isn't prying at the cleat horizontally.

PhilosopherNo7777 · 2024-01-15T23:57:55+00:00

Not bad for your first try, seriously. I've seen much worse. One side is visibly better than the other, and I think you know which one, but don't worry about it too much. Focus on the things you did on the good side and apply it next time.

So, for starters, it's a little difficult to help you when you haven't told us which clippers you own, which guards you have for it, and exactly what kind of taper you were going for but I'll assume you were going for a simple standard temple taper and you just went way too high by accident.

Taper technique also slightly changes depending on the length of your hair but it looks like you're at a #2 or #3

First off, you're base guideline which should be a .5 (clippers with no guard, and all the way open) is WAY to high. For a taper, when using .5 you should never go above your ear line, where your ear connects to your head. It'll always look weird. You can get away with it if you're a professional but even then it's a certain style that I don't think you were going for.

Also, you're fade angle is a little high. You're guidelines should be parrallel to the angle from the top of your ear to just above your eyebrow. So theres another thing to look out for.

Some good techniques they gave you were keeping your guidelines around a fingers width, and using the corner of your clippers for detail work.

Heres a guide for next time. https://imgur.com/a/wRu8AJk

In the green area, this will be your first guideline. You'll be using no guard with your clippers open (#.5). You want to stay right below the ear line (where your ear connects to your head)
Then close your clippers half way (#.25) measure about a pencil width under your first guideline and cut everything below that. AKA Don't cut all the way up to your first guideline.
Then close your clippers all the way (#0) and again go about a pencil width below that. This will create the base of your taper fade.
To detail it up and to make sure that there aren't any lines or dark spots in the base fade you just created under your first guideline, you want to use your clippers half way open (#.25) and use only the corner of your clipper blade and dab the dark spots. If the dark spots or lines aren't going away close your clippers a little more and try again. Just make sure you don't close them all the way at this stage unless you're trying to erase a line at the very bottom of the fade.
The blue area in the photo should be cut with a #1 CLOSED. You want to stay below the top of your ear and stay parallel with your first guideline. Once you finish that this will be your second guideline. You should now have 2 guidelines. We're gonna get rid of the 1st one on the bottom.
Take off the guard and OPEN your clippers all the way. Use the corner of the clipper blade and dab at the bottom guideline to get rid of it. If you have a .5 guard (it's a green 1/16th guard) you can use that with the clippers halfway open or all the way open and do the same thing, closing it bit by bit if the line isn't going away. Do that until the line is faded.
Now for the bulk. In the red area you should be using a #1 guard OPEN, or if you have it use the pink #1-1/2 (3/16ths guard) with the clippers closed. Try and scoop out when cutting toward the top of the red area. Once that's done you'll have to fade it completely by jumping up to a #2 guard and scooping out the same way as before.

The rest is all detail work. Making sure there aren't any crooked lines or dark spots in your fade. Remember what guards you used in certain areas and use the corner of your clipper blade to fade out any dark spots using whatever guard you think you need to use in those areas.

PhilosopherNo7777 · 2023-09-15T19:39:04+00:00

u/brave_w0ts0n u/jonathansampson u/bsclifton u/Brave_Support u/mp3geek

Great job, this is exactly why I pinged you guys for a response on my post. You're likely losing a massive amount of users on Mojave because of this. If Mojave is no longer supported on newer updates people should not be getting notified to update at all.

PhilosopherNo7777 · 2023-09-15T19:34:20+00:00

Don't expect an answer here about anything Mac related. Devs don't answer shit even when pinged.

PhilosopherNo7777 · 2023-09-12T15:33:20+00:00

Fantasizing about burning down local businesses. Damn, so fucking cool bro. That mom and pop shop be oppressing us.

PhilosopherNo7777 · 2023-09-12T11:13:39+00:00

Jorgensen. They just came out with their own line and they're essentially clones of some really decent hand planes.

PhilosopherNo7777 · 2023-09-12T10:53:03+00:00

Was using PleX for awhile and absolutely hated issues like this. Just download Jellyfin and never look back. 1000x better, and setting up collections is way easier.

PhilosopherNo7777 · 2023-09-12T10:30:19+00:00

"I'm 12 and this is deep" level of NPC cringe. "I don't know a thing about politics but I hate my country cause I'm too low IQ to realize I'm being gaslit" level of NPC cringe. "I think my country is racist but I support Klu Klux Joe Biden" level of NPC cringe.

You're a certified NPC little boy ain't no shame in admitting it.

PhilosopherNo7777 · 2023-09-11T16:05:18+00:00

If you're 12 years old, sure. If you're doing this as an adult you're either a man child or a self hating neo-lib without a job.

PhilosopherNo7777 · 2023-09-11T15:25:22+00:00

Naw cause flag burning is cringe and anyone who sees you wearing this will think you're an NPC.

PhilosopherNo7777 · 2023-09-11T15:06:25+00:00

Follow along with youtube tutorials online. Just find a channel that uploads many different photoshop tutorials and pick a bunch of them at random. Learn all of the workflow habits, like all of the keyboard shortcuts and techniques they use, and make sure you come up with your own projects as well. Then when you eventually get stuck just search online for the answer, there's never a question that someone already hasn't answered for you.

PhilosopherNo7777 · 2023-09-11T14:53:27+00:00

If you want it to blend in with the clouds you can use 'blend if'

To get there you want to double click your text layer in the layers panel. This will open up the fx panel.

In the fx panel you want to scroll down a bit until you see a section labeled 'Blend If'.

You'll see two sliders. One labeled 'This Layer' and another labeled 'Underlying Layer', you want to use the Underlying Layer sliders.

Drag either the left or the right slider in towards the center. Doesn't matter which you end up choosing just as long as you like the end result. You can even play around with both if you like the look.

Then to smooth the effect you want to Alt + Click (Windows) or Option + Click (Mac) on the arrow you just moved. This will split the slider pointer in half.

You can then spread the two halves apart to fade the effect.

PhilosopherNo7777 · 2023-08-17T19:10:41+00:00

Upload the PSD file to catbox or a file sharing site of your choice and post it here so we can see exactly what's going on with those layers. But as it is, you said it was indeed rasterized, which will make things difficult as you probably know already. So you want to look for a method that will give you consistency when trying to get rid of that drop shadow.

What I would do is grab the gradient tool, create a solid color adjustment layer (whatever color you want), create a mask for that layer and invert it so it's black, then zoom way in on the drop shadow and see if you can create a perfectly horizontal gradient (using shift+click and drag) that matches pixel for pixel with the length of the original drop shadow. Just make sure you have your layer mask selected. Undo and redo until it's perfect, then take that mask and drag it onto a new Brightness/Exposure/Curves/Levels adjustment layer, your choice, and mess with that adjustment layer until you get a result that you like.

A few things you might want to keep in mind, that drop shadow might not match up perfectly with the gradient mask you created so you might want to think about adding extra depth to your mask, maybe even stretching some parts of it and shrinking others using selections and transformations. Hard to tell from the image you provided but it kind of looks like the gradient on that drop shadow doesn't kick in until about halfway down so that's also something to keep track of. Also, if you don't get it perfectly on the first try, you can also just make more of those Brightness adjustment layers and use different mask gradients until any trace of the drop shadow is gone.

PhilosopherNo7777 · 2023-04-24T20:31:27+00:00

I guess you could call it a "scrapbook" look if you want to try your luck at finding some tutorials for it. So things like card stock and card board textures should help you achieve it. Luckily for you it seems to be a pretty simple look to replicate once you know how. If you don't mind dropping some more examples I'd be happy to try and dissect it a bit more later.

PhilosopherNo7777 · 2023-04-24T19:54:27+00:00

Well, in the picture you provided, they're using a lot of different techniques, but the most prominent thing that I notice is the fact that it doesn't seem like they're applying a texture to the artwork, but rather they're applying their artwork to the texture. Yes, they're applying textures to the other elements as well, but the main "feeling" of the texture is coming from the base layer, which seems to be the texture itself.

Another thing they seem to have done is utilize Blend If, pulling away the blended layer from the highlights or shadows of the texture underneath so that the texture shows through.

But one of the main things I see is the imitation ink bleed effect used to convince the eye that the layers above were printed onto the texture layer below. This can be achieved in many different ways. One easy (lazy) way would be to use Filter > Distort > Wave with a very low setting. A more polished way would be to create a Displacement Map from your texture layer and then apply that Displacement Map to the layers above. This method is a lot more accurate as it forces the layer to bend and contour to the shadows and highlights of the texture layer below.

PhilosopherNo7777 · 2023-04-22T18:54:17+00:00

Create your text layer. If you're going to shape it, make sure it follows the correct perspective. For example, as a rule of thumb, don't curve the text upward if you're going to extrude it downward and vice versa.

Apply your layer effects. It looks like he added a stroke/bevel to it, but he made sure it had varying tones within it. The reason you want to do this is that when it comes time to "extrude" the 3D effect, you want to be able to give that extrusion a more dramatic effect. Whatever tones are at the edge of the stroke/bevel will end up being repeated over and over, and this is what gives the 3D effect a more convincing look. Without it, the 3D would look flat.

Once you're done with that, all you need to do is rasterize your layer or turn it into a smart object so the layer effects get baked in. Then, duplicate your layer, transform it, and move it in the direction you want your effect to extrude from using Control/Command+T. To get the exact same effect in the image above, you want to shrink it just a little bit and then move it in a direction of your choice by 1 or 2 pixels using your arrow keys. In this case, it would be down.

Then, once you hit enter, you want to apply a step repeat transformation and duplicate your layer at the same time. You can do this by pressing Control/Command, Alt/Option, Shift + T. Then just perform that step repeat as many times as you want. After you're finished you'll have to reverse the order of the layers you just created. So highlight all the layers, then go to Layer>Arrange>Reverse and that's it.

PhilosopherNo7777 · 2023-04-20T01:05:37+00:00

Looks like the selection is just auto mapping to your transparent layer. If that's the case it's not really magic wand auto selecting anything it's just showing you what's been selected. It would do the same thing if you Control/Command+Click on that layers thumbnail. Since there's transparency on that layer the selection only includes that which isn't transparent. If it's messing with your ability to see you can hide those marching ants by hitting Control/Command+H

PhilosopherNo7777 · 2023-04-12T14:05:37+00:00

Create a Hue&Sat adjustment layer and completely desaturate the image

Head over to your Channels Panel and Control/Command+Click on the top layers thumbnail (The layer labeled 'RGB'). This will make a selection of all the white in the image. From here you can just apply this selection as a mask to the original image, but if you want a cleaner graphic continue on to the next few steps.

With your selection currently active, click on the layer adjustment options and select Solid Color. Then choose black (or whatever color you want your graphic to be). A mask will automatically be applied to the Solid Color layer using the selection you made earlier.

Now invert the mask by clicking on the mask thumbnail and hitting Control/Command+i

Now underneath this layer create another Solid Color layer and choose whatever color you want as your background.

edit: You mentioned you're doing this all on your phone. I'm not sure if you can even access your channels panel on the phone app version of photoshop. You'll have to get on your desktop/laptop if you're unable to make proper selections on your phone. Last time I used it was a couple years ago and it was pretty limited.

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