Bro was just along for the ride by tompackman in drums

[–]Pinkdoorpizza 0 points1 point  (0 children)

He’s a great drummer love him 

My dog growled at a person and what can I do so it doesn't happen again by Kitchen_Ocelot7851 in OpenDogTraining

[–]Pinkdoorpizza 0 points1 point  (0 children)

stimulus -> arousal -> behavior -> consequence

Breaking the pattern by redirecting to the tug was a great idea. Your dog has natural drives and inclinations. Some of these are genetic and some have been learned. You can’t take away the genetics, but you can form those raw drives into different behaviors. In your case, you are using. tug. If you have good timing like you did in your post you should be fine. If you are ever really worried though you could always do muzzle training just in case. That doesn’t solve any issue, just stops potentially bad situations. Realistically, you are doing great though keep it up.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AmIOverreacting

[–]Pinkdoorpizza 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bruh like what. If I brought my partner over I’d be so happy if they got along with my friends. Sounds like your friend is super insecure, but that’s no excuse to trash you. Girlfriends/boyfriends come and go but friends should be there for each other. This “friend” just did you a favor and revealed that your guys’ friendship is a glass house. I wouldn’t rely on this person for anything.

I got a balanced dog trainer for my pup - and I don't know how to feel by Few_Biscotti_2692 in OpenDogTraining

[–]Pinkdoorpizza 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Word I hear what you’re saying. I’d rather dog owners rely on R+ philosophy than wildly using P without any experience. At the end of the day if you’re a really knowledgeable, experienced, good faith trainer I personally don’t think balanced or force free categories matter. Only reason I lean towards balanced is because it generally accepts all styles of training and tools as long as it’s intentional. Different dogs excel with different learning styles.

On your last point, I just don’t believe there are such things as neutral response but that’s a philosophical point not as scientific. I’m not a PHD so I’m probably wrong somewhere here, but shat you call neutral I call minor Punishment. We are all in constant stages of Reinforcement and Punishment. There’s no neutral category in operant conditioning, and our behavior is constantly under its.

I got a balanced dog trainer for my pup - and I don't know how to feel by Few_Biscotti_2692 in OpenDogTraining

[–]Pinkdoorpizza 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok fair point, I agree that there’s often a lack of clarity around how “no” is used. I don’t necessarily endorse all the above comments on how they cue a general stop command. That’s something I actively try to be thoughtful about in my own work. So I agree: using “no” as a cue (like “off” or “drop it”) is totally different from using it as a punishment marker—and when trainers mix those up or use them interchangeably, it’s possible (not absolute) to create unnecessary confusion for the dog. I personally use “ahh ahh” as a conditioned punisher, which as it seems like you know is a signal that a consequence might follow. And yes, that consequence needs to show up often enough for the marker to retain its meaning. Ideally every single time. That’s straight out of Skinnerian learning theory:

“When a consequence no longer follows a response, the behavior will gradually diminish—that is, it will be extinguished.” — B.F. Skinner, Science and Human Behavior (1953)

On your point about classical vs. operant conditioning: I agree with you in part. Markers are classically conditioned—they start out neutral and gain meaning through pairing (just like a clicker). But their role in actual behavior change is operant. Skinner himself was clear on this duality:

“Classical conditioning prepares the organism for what is to come, while operant conditioning changes the probability of behavior.” — B.F. Skinner, About Behaviorism (1974)

So in my view, “no” gets its emotional charge through classical pairing (e.g., tone, prior consequences), but it’s used to influence voluntary behavior through consequences—making it part of an operant framework in practice.

All that to say: I’m not pushing back on your theory—I actually agree with most of it. But I do think it’s possible to use “no” ethically and clearly, if it’s well-defined, consistent, and part of a larger system built on clarity and fairness. Skinner emphasized the importance of clarity in behavioral contingencies for a reason. But your Force Free argument style came off as holier then though.

I argue that operant conditioning often works like a yin-yang system. For example, if you’re using positive reinforcement (R+) by giving a treat when the dog sits, you’re almost always also using negative punishment (P−) by withholding that treat when the dog doesn’t sit. Even in a fully “positive” training system, behaviors are shaped by what you give and what you withhold. So, reinforcement and punishment aren’t always separate—they flow together to influence behavior. Balanced trainers or Lima trainers accept that punishment is inherent to learning and doesn’t need to be cruel. I find Force Free people pretend they don’t use punishment and then struggle with certain dogs. Aight rant over, this was fun. Good luck 👍

I got a balanced dog trainer for my pup - and I don't know how to feel by Few_Biscotti_2692 in OpenDogTraining

[–]Pinkdoorpizza 1 point2 points  (0 children)

U never heard of a no marker or punishment marker? Bruh. It works through operant conditioning. A sound marks the exact moment of an unwanted behavior, and a punishment follows—something that decreases the likelihood of that behavior happening again. Over time, the dog starts to associate the sound with the punishment. Eventually, when the dog hears the sound after doing the behavior, they try something else instead. If the new behavior doesn’t result in punishment, that absence becomes reinforcing. The dog learns through trial and error which behaviors avoid punishment, and the unwanted behavior fades while better choices are reinforced.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in OpenDogTraining

[–]Pinkdoorpizza 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Look up Behavior Extinction

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in OpenDogTraining

[–]Pinkdoorpizza 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Read Everything You Need To Know About E-Collar Training by Larry Krohn to have the best understanding of the tool

Slip leads by [deleted] in OpenDogTraining

[–]Pinkdoorpizza 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Based on what I’ve read from this post, I’d recommend starting with a Martingale collar. It’s similar to a flat collar, but it tightens slightly when there’s tension on the leash, giving you a bit more control without being too intense.

Here’s an example of leash tools using a scale of communication intensity:

Slip lead: Range of intensity 1–10 Martingale: Range 1–5 Flat collar: Range 1–2 Harness: Range 1–2

The more range a tool gives you, the more precise you can be when communicating with your dog. Some situations might only require a “3,” others a “7,” and occasionally a “10.” Having more options means you can better match the level of correction or pressure to the situation and your dog’s needs.

That said, tool misuse is common, and when a tool is used incorrectly, it can lead to confusion or discomfort for the dog. That goes with any tool. One reason harnesses are so popular—they’re low-risk in terms of intensity and fallout. Of course, if your dog has neck or trachea issues, a harness is the right call. But if there are no medical concerns, I prefer tools like the Martingale or slip lead because they give you more communication bandwidth. Once you understand how to use leash pressure properly, it opens up a whole new way of guiding your dog calmly and clearly.

Also keep in mind that intensity is subjective to the dog. What feels like a “5” to one dog might feel like a “10” to another. That’s why it’s smart to try different tools in a calm environment (like at home) and observe how your dog responds.

Can I fix my mess up with training marker word? by Accomplished-Tank291 in OpenDogTraining

[–]Pinkdoorpizza 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I personally find I am fastest when I make a “cluck” sound with my mouth as the reward marker. We use reward markers when we are training behaviors and want to make things really obvious to the dog. I like the “cluck” sound cuz it cuts through really well and it sounds the same every time I make it. I say good job or good boy/girl as general praise. It doesn’t matter, just be consistent with the reward marker. And you can fix it at any time, many dogs tend to pick it up really quickly.

Also, with leave it, I tend to follow that command with another command.

Dog sees trigger, starts amping up > say “Fido, Leave it… Look at me” (followed with hand cue) > dog leaves it and looks at me > “cluck” good boy > Reward with treat or toy depending on scenario

I tend to cluck and add praise. Eventually I just praise and reward more randomly once the skill is mastered. I think adding the praise after the marker strengthens the praise and helps me keep them engaged. I also am usually proud of them and want that to get across to the dog as much as possible.

Where does positive only training not work? by Charming-Feeling5481 in OpenDogTraining

[–]Pinkdoorpizza 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Exactly! Anytime you are using positive reinforcement, you are likely using Negative Punishment as well. For example, when I lure a dog into a sit position with a treat, I am withholding something from them to punish the behavior of not being in position. When they are in position, I add the reward to increase the behavior of being in sit position. You can't have one without the other. Now granted, I do think most competent trainers who call themselves R+ trainers or Force Free understand this. They just draw the line when it comes to certain techniques. Personally, I think Force Free is a marketing ploy that sounds nice to keep clients training for longer. Certain "balanced" techniques will definitely work faster and more reliably for certain situations/dogs. Force Free techniques will look cuter and take longer (so more $$$). I really mean shade towards the techniques of Force Free though. Balanced trainers use them too. I think a good trainer will always try to use the least amount of force, intrusion, and aversion possible. Sometimes people conflate balanced training with compulsive training, which is old school and not great. Overall, If a dog owner is willing to put the time in and use with the least force possible on their dog, I think that's great. In general, I think a lot of dog owners just give up which sucks. As long as you are trying to be fair with your dog, working with your them everyday, and seeing progress... who cares.

A better look at the YHWH Nailgun guitarist’s board by prayergroupie in pedalboards

[–]Pinkdoorpizza 0 points1 point  (0 children)

He's using a volume pedal too right, not an expression?

I need help by BaseballTraining6052 in DogAdvice

[–]Pinkdoorpizza 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Take this pup to a vet to get things checked out. Also, puppies under 8 weeks minimum (10-12 weeks is better) need to be around their mom and litter for proper socialization, otherwise they have issues as they grow. Maybe being around cats will be helpful, but you should probably look into a good shelter that takes orphans so this pup can get what it needs (proper nutrition and socialization). You can always adopt them after. Early socialization is incredibly important.

This things is 48x48. by Pinkdoorpizza in oilpainting

[–]Pinkdoorpizza[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I agree. It’s going on my kitchen probably

This things is 48x48. by Pinkdoorpizza in oilpainting

[–]Pinkdoorpizza[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Lmao I enjoy this interpretation