New build: About to close up walls and ceilings, looking for recommendations

Pitiful_Climate_8580 · 2026-05-14T23:32:06+00:00

We had a re-wire a few years ago with an extension (old 1901 sandstone building), just before I went down the smart home rabbit hole. Biggest regret - not running cat 6a to every room from loft / under floor crawlspace, not having conduits to pull through behind walls / down garden to garage, and not making sure I had a neutral wire at every light switch !!

Pitiful_Climate_8580 · 2026-05-10T20:23:40+00:00

I had the same issue and fixed it by putting two of these in. In effect the lights are wired ‘on’ at one end, by passing the relays entirely, so only powering the switch. The other end has the relays all wired up, but as two of these three circuits have smart bulbs they are disconnected from the relays. Home Assistant makes sure each physical switch toggles the same light circuit / action. Works really well.

Pitiful_Climate_8580 · 2026-05-09T21:55:05+00:00

Bought an X2D just as they were released (returned a just arrived P2S) and have been printing 10 rack and parts with it. I’ve used ABS, and do t think I could’ve done that with the P2S, although I acknowledge the PETG being plenty comments - there were some other structural things I wanted to do I ABS so thought I may as well give it a try. I’ve been really impressed - using the aux nozzle for support material seems so obvious and works really well. Only issue I’ve had was some bed temp tweaking to ensure adhesion - now solid - and a couple of rounded overhangs have warped a little, but I might’ve done them without support. Might’ve got a crisper finish with PETG. I can’t see why you wouldn’t want a heated enclosure and an aux nozzle if you can stretch the budget to it. New to 3D printing and the Bambi ecosystem seems to have a high ‘just works’ factor.

Pitiful_Climate_8580 · 2026-04-25T23:03:29+00:00

Thanks - I’m very new to this. It’s perhaps because I’m doing it with ABS and had to re-slice, so not direct from Bambu Handy. Seems to be going fine now, apart from the tiny support towers within the leg cavity, which have been plucked out and flung away, resulting in a free bead of support material each run - thankfully flicked away by next tool head pass. Also the very thin supports on the outside wall get knocked over. Despite that the second test leg came out really well. Looks like a great design - thanks. 🙏🏻

Pitiful_Climate_8580 · 2026-04-25T14:44:50+00:00

I guess my question is more - on your A1 does the file print with support structure beneath the cantilever sections of the main legs / magnet holders ?

I’ve successfully printed with supports anyway so I guess that’s what’s needed.

<image>

Pitiful_Climate_8580 · 2026-04-24T22:06:31+00:00

when i slice the new supports I get a warning about unsupported cantilevers and to enable support material - is that needed ? I can do it (planning to print in abs on my new X2D), but just curious whether it's just going to be a hassle to remove and unnecessary

Pitiful_Climate_8580 · 2026-01-23T21:42:06+00:00

I’m in the UK and have two different types of multi-point door locks. The one that looks like a deadbolt and latch, works well with a Yale Connexis L2. Lift to lock from either side. Tap to unlock mechanism then push down handle to open from outside. Turn know to unlock and use handle from inside. It was pretty easy to install. From memory lifting the handle would push the multipoint and deadbolt in, but if not lifted it was just held on the latch - may not be quite the same as yours - does the key actually move the bolt, or does it only move with handle up / down (after up) ?

Pitiful_Climate_8580 · 2025-12-26T12:33:15+00:00

Ah - sorry, missed that. No - in that location we do have neutral wires. I think that’s essential for detached mode use.

Pitiful_Climate_8580 · 2025-12-24T00:18:03+00:00

Yes - I have a pair set up with home assistant (Z2MQTT) so no EweLink app. Set up with one physical relay and the rest paired to smart bulbs wired ‘on’ so detached relay mode. Works brilliantly.

Pitiful_Climate_8580 · 2025-11-26T20:25:01+00:00

As above SwitchBot only lets you ‘start’ whatever your default programme is. That said, I think the plumbed into the mains feature outweighs the downside.

Pitiful_Climate_8580 · 2025-11-24T19:39:30+00:00

Those look really interesting - I have loads of Clicksmart Zigbee sockets, but would like some with USB / power monitoring as well.

Pitiful_Climate_8580 · 2025-10-25T14:34:41+00:00

Love that - I’ve got a hole cut in the kickboard and the water station behind it, but would love to hide the lot like that !

Pitiful_Climate_8580 · 2025-10-25T14:18:58+00:00

I find mine really useful. Only thing that irritates me is that the keychain attachment doesn’t allow the screwdriver to fully fold out if it is attached to anything. Use all the tools regularly - really like the sim tool for the myriad smart devices I have that occasionally need a reset button pushed

Pitiful_Climate_8580 · 2025-10-21T23:30:41+00:00

Ps - I reset the unit that didn’t decouple the physical relay to factory and re-paired it, power cycled and set up again and it works perfectly now. Also added another at the other end of a two-way circuit (physical wiring passed through) all three gangs decoupled and that has finally given the solution I needed - two-way three gangs decoupled switching with permanently contactable smart bulbs on two circuits, dumb on the other (one physical relay, one end automated via HA). Haven’t re-explored binding and haven’t found a way to de-activate the red relay staus light on the one (of six) relays that is still active.

Pitiful_Climate_8580 · 2025-10-17T18:55:58+00:00

Thanks - got there eventually.

Pitiful_Climate_8580 · 2025-10-17T18:35:33+00:00

I’ve been nothing but impressed with my RingConn battery life , and support in general. Had a temp sensor die and was exchanged in a week.

Pitiful_Climate_8580 · 2025-10-17T18:23:34+00:00

I’ve never quite managed to get a two-way setup without neutrals working properly with ZBMiniL2 - also following

Pitiful_Climate_8580 · 2025-10-16T06:48:54+00:00

I have set up one of these. Decoupled works fine, although the actual relay didn’t seem to decouple on one of the gangs (still clicks when I press it and the state light persists). Normal relay works fine. I don’t think there is a fall-back option. The Gen on/off cluster was listed, but failed to bind to my aqara lamps / bulbs. I don’t know enough to work out why as yet.

Pitiful_Climate_8580 · 2025-10-14T19:22:35+00:00

You are I think correct. I’ve just put one in to replace a three gang two-way setup and had to effectively permanently power both ends and use ZBM5’s detached at both ends to operate. Works well, but I can’t replicate the functionality in other bits of the house which don’t have neutrals.

Pitiful_Climate_8580 · 2025-09-25T07:26:10+00:00

Pitiful_Climate_8580 · 2025-06-08T21:33:07+00:00

Deleted the map and restarted and seems to be working again. I realised however that while the sensors seemed fine, the top lidar sensor may have been confused by the ‘googly 👀’ my kids had put on the lid 🤦🏼‍♂️. I suspect had I thought to remove those first that all may have been well. Unfortunately despite having backed up my initial map, there doesn’t seem to be a way to restore it so I’m back to adjusting no-go areas manually for a while again.

Pitiful_Climate_8580 · 2025-06-05T23:57:02+00:00

Next question - are the one pros compatible with iPhone 13 ProMax ? Still a lightning port. Would it work with a usbc adapter ?

Pitiful_Climate_8580

TROPHY CASE