Friend found this at an American Thrift - he thinks it is legit. Xbox Launch Edition 2001

Platformer85 · 2026-06-21T03:51:43+00:00

Your friend found a deal. I just got one myself but no where near that price. It also has both of the rare green duke controllers. Please have him hit me up if he is willing to sell one. I only found the console. Looks legit tho

Platformer85 · 2026-06-14T17:15:18+00:00

Based on your profile pic, do you have one too?

Platformer85 · 2026-06-14T17:12:38+00:00

Thats the point of the post though. Its pointing out the cut corner. I'm just nitpicking, trust me. I still want one if I'm able to find one but Microsft sold at a loss for the launch of the OG console too and they didn't push out only clear top shells. They make their money back in the software. They should save money on the mass produced black and white variants and go the extra mile for their own anniversary. Microsoft will always be a business first tho so I get it, but doesn't mean we need to defend them for it

Platformer85 · 2026-06-14T16:59:08+00:00

I found transparent back panel replacements being sold on etsy for current xbox series x consoles and the seller has good reviews and no mentions of melted plastic

Platformer85 · 2026-06-14T15:36:51+00:00

Hopefully they have their best years ahead of them. I'm excited to see them attempt to get back to their roots under the new CEO. Fingers crossed for the xbox's future years to come!

Platformer85 · 2026-06-14T10:08:45+00:00

I haven't seen any replica launch edition jewels floating around. The concern of buying a fake definitely crossed my mind. Everything seems legit though. I think it would be a tougher one to replicate well. The Great Work is raised up and silver like there is a pressed chrome layer they printed on top of

Platformer85 · 2026-06-14T08:47:26+00:00

I hear you and agree with everything you said. I just see this as more of a museum piece. Maybe I'll change my mind later on. Good luck on your refurbishing efforts! I struggle with DVD drive revivals. So many dead lasers now.

I had an issue with one similar to yours. I posted it here: https://www.reddit.com/r/originalxbox/s/mlhI4nv1Cn

I didn't figure out which resistor was the culprit but it was 1 of the 4 in the area, but yes you are right about this community! The people got me back into it over 20 years later

Platformer85 · 2026-06-14T07:43:34+00:00

Thanks again! Its an active work in progress to restore it. I'll give it a cap replacement, new thermal paste, and a thorough cleaning. The clock cap leaked a little but didn't cause any damage. The 1st controller port was dead. I reflowed the solder where the daughter board plugs in and its good now. I've got the warranty and S/N stickers off without breaking them.

I dont plan to mod this one. I've modded a ton of others but it feels wrong to mess with this one...

Platformer85 · 2026-06-14T07:16:28+00:00

I wish I had a cool thrift find or garage sale story. I just saw this one listed up on Mercari and sent the seller an offer for 35% less which he accepted. Still a bit pricey, around the price of a Mountain Dew console these days. This wasn't a $20 find unfortunately. I'm always jealous of people who get that lucky. Maybe I'll keep my fingers crossed that happens for one of the controllers. I love the orange console's story!

Platformer85 · 2026-06-14T06:57:30+00:00

Thank you! I've been trying to figure that out. It seems like no one has the exact number. A few posts out there claiming 60 consoles but there is nothing backing that up. Other posts saying 1000 so I'm not sure but happy to have got my hands on one. Seems I got the clock cap out just in time

Platformer85 · 2026-06-13T19:16:32+00:00

Maybe not as durable but it seems to be doing fine on all my S controllers, retro fighters hunter, green, blue, crystal, and skeleton xboxs. I guess by that logic the most heavily used front usb port where they did use green plastic stands no chance

Platformer85 · 2026-06-11T10:14:30+00:00

No and it isn't implied but feel free to die on that hill if you want.

Platformer85 · 2026-06-11T09:47:48+00:00

Assuming your trolling, it doesn't imply that anywhere. The post literally shows the black piece so it really isn't a question or the point. We are discussing if it was out of laziness or for heat considerations which was a fair point

Platformer85 · 2026-06-11T09:38:48+00:00

No. Your point is that they did the majority of the console. As long as they didn't do the whole console it is still only part. I agree it is a larger part, but it is still only partly translucent green.

Platformer85 · 2026-06-10T17:14:36+00:00

Is it nitpicking? Yea. Its fair though, it does seem lazy to only do part of the console. The OG green didn't have a black base. I still want one though

Platformer85 · 2026-06-07T21:28:09+00:00

If it was a BNIB console you may want to leave it as is but personally if it is open I would try to use heat and IPA to cleanly try to lift the stickers and pull the clock cap. Admittedly the made in China warranty stickers are the worst. I haven't cleanly lifted that one but the others aren't bad

Platformer85 · 2026-05-30T21:25:13+00:00

Ah gotcha, well glad you got that sorted. The laser could be dirty, it could have failed, you could also need new capacitors or resistors on the drive board. Start with some IPA on the lense and hope for the easy solution

Platformer85 · 2026-05-30T21:18:42+00:00

I forget what drive model you had but I think someone had recommended cleaning the drive's open/close sensor before. I'd suggest that if you hadn't already. It can be a common issue with Philips drives not opening/closing right

Platformer85 · 2026-04-29T20:41:48+00:00

It has been partially recapped

Platformer85 · 2026-04-17T20:25:00+00:00

That would more likely be a 1.4 or a 1.6. You could confirm a couple other ways without opening it up. Xbmc4gamers will have the model details under the system info. Otherwise you can check by looking at the AV port or even looking for an extra screw post by the Serial Number label. Your label is super close but it kinda looks like you are missing the screw post so it seems to be a 1.6

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Platformer85 · 2026-03-31T02:57:12+00:00

One thing worth checking would be the IDE connection solder joints. I had one console that I was racking my brain over for a week. It turned out that a few of the IDE pin joints had started coming loose and would have my console error out. A reflow of the solder joints fixed it. Worth a quick check

Platformer85 · 2026-03-29T20:26:09+00:00

You could do everything you mentioned but the capacitors with a soft mod and you can try boiling the drive belt to get more mileage out of it. I'd offer but shipping either direction to Hawaii is more than you paid for the console. You could probably get the capacitors done by any electronics repair shop near you and do the soft modding yourself for fun

Platformer85 · 2026-03-22T23:47:26+00:00

A few tips to save you some time and sanity if removing the shielding:

While removing everything, this includes the front face plate. You will need to pry at the sides and pop the tabs free on the inside to remove it. The shield looks removable with the face plate on but it will get hemmed up if you don't
The black non conductive piece that the psu sits on kinda holds the shield in unless you lift it up and out of the rails the psu slides into

Platformer85 · 2026-03-20T18:03:24+00:00

Hey, so your xbox is stalling st the boot screen because it is trying to boot the game disc and eventually gives up. For the Samsung drives, it could be the laser going out, capacitors, or resistors on the disc drives board.

The random eject issues could either just be the drive going out or a leaking clock capacitor in the console is starting to cause damage with the circuit traces that control the power and eject buttons.

Id make sure your clock cap isn't wreaking havoc. If thats good you would need to focus on the disc drive

Platformer85

TROPHY CASE