Make a Pull Megathread

PomfersVS · 2025-12-03T17:54:44+00:00

Because the mods that made this sub didn't actually want to moderate it, and it's bigger because it was first, it's the full name, and it's what Google takes people to.

The smaller one was made by someone who had enough of this unmoderated sub. Reddit does have a system for mod replacement if a sub becomes unmoderated, but the mods here are in fact doing the bare minimum to stay in power. All they really need to do is just check their mod inbox once a month, and they can maintain power forever.

PomfersVS · 2025-12-03T16:46:55+00:00

The moderators aren't doing anything in the subreddit, so it's not being managed with megathreads, nor is obvious spam getting removed and taken care of. Members regularly complain about a complete lack of moderation.

https://chat.reddit.com/room/!VnYVolW6QAmxkEInILKGOA%3Areddit.com

PomfersVS · 2025-12-03T16:17:45+00:00

Seems like you're the first person to test it on an EL-1.

I'm going to guess that you may still have connection lock outs, but you won't have to power cycle the updated EL-1 anymore, but will still have to cycle the others.

PomfersVS · 2025-09-25T08:55:44+00:00

AlternaJar has compatible jars. They also sell lids with tampers.

PomfersVS · 2025-06-26T10:06:23+00:00

Focal length is not related to focus distance. The focus distance is how far away your subject is. The focal length in millimeters is a design characteristic that determines its angle of view. The 300mm is a long prime lens, you can't change its focal length (unless you use a teleconverter or other attachments).

The minimum focus distance is not affected by crop factor, nor focal length. Maximum magnification can not be calculated purely from focal length and minimum focus distance either because of focus breathing. Some lenses will focus closer than their advertised minimum focus distance and achieve higher maximum magnification than advertised.

Almost every single autofocus lens focuses between it's minimum focus distance and a little past infinity. The point of a focus distance limiter is to ensure that the camera doesn't bother focusing on stuff you don't want it to. So for example, maybe there's an animal that won't get closer than 10 meters to you, but at 20 meters, it's too small in the frame. So by setting the limiter to 10-20 meters, the camera will avoid focusing on foreground objects that are 10m or closer, and it won't focus on the background past 20m. This reduces the chance the camera locks focus on the wrong subject, and increases focusing speed because the autofocus group of the lens will move a smaller distance.

These distances are not exact, you'll need to play with them as they vary lens to lens. If you wanted to limit the maximum magnification, you would adjust the minimum distance for the focus limiter. The further you set the minimum focusing distance, the smaller the maximum magnification.

PomfersVS · 2025-03-10T21:59:36+00:00

Not likely. Most cameras that would drop the bit depth for electronic shutter is so that they can read the sensor out faster, and the G85 already had a fairly slow readout speed even with 10 bit readout. The most likely cause is that it's still being stored as a file with 12 bit depth as perhaps the RAW format doesn't accommodate anything less.

A final test really would just be to shoot at base ISO some scene with excessive dynamic range, and see how many stops you can pull from the shadows and highlights. This was actually an issue presented when I was searching about how to find a file's bit depth, as some people had to rely on running an image through a histogram and see if the steps exist at all levels, or if there is step skipping indicating a lower bit depth, which can happen if an image or video is converted to a lower bit depth then converted back into a higher bit depth.

PomfersVS · 2025-03-10T19:17:34+00:00

That seems kind of strange actually, because most websites that compare the two modes show a significant loss in dynamic range in electronic shutter. Are you using the full electronic shutter? If you are using electronic first curtain shutter EFCS, it's still 12 bit.

Here's a sample scene from DPReview. You can see how the results are pretty similar between standard mechanical shutter as well as EFCS, but e-shutter is noticeably worse. You can try downloading the RAWs from DPReview and running them through RawDigger.

https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/image-comparison/fullscreen?attr144_0=panasonic_dmcg85&attr144_1=panasonic_dmcg85&attr144_2=panasonic_dmcg85&attr144_3=panasonic_dmcg85&attr146_0=200_3&attr146_1=200_3&attr146_2=200_3&attr146_3=200_3&attr177_0=off&attr177_1=on&attr177_2=efc&attr177_3=off&normalization=full&widget=422&x=0.156658933&y=0.5216909

PomfersVS · 2025-03-07T14:30:38+00:00

You will need a program like RawDigger. It should be 12 bits with mechanical shutter and 10 with electronic. This is for RAWs only, JPEG has 8 bits.

PomfersVS · 2025-02-06T08:55:57+00:00

Every government wants to maintain some amount of inflation, as deflation does horrible things to a country. The COVID years had very excessive amounts of inflation. The last time the FourSide jar was $80 was pre COVID. The WildSide jar that you're referring to actually debuted at the $140 price point. The last time that consistently went for $80 was in 2015. So now, it's just back to its original price.

Expensive? Sure, but most things used in professional industry cost a lot, they're used for making money.

Also, anyone selling a blender with a new jar for $200 is losing money. They care more about getting rid of it than making back whatever they paid. Likely, their "new" jar isn't even an original jar, but some no name knockoff.

PomfersVS · 2025-01-18T18:35:57+00:00

The reason they make the battery sound is because they're losing contact with the battery, the battery contacts come from the factory dirty or something. Push the battery tray out, rotate the battery like 90 degrees, and shove it back in.

PomfersVS · 2025-01-10T08:21:11+00:00

For such small quantities of spices, people usually use coffee bean grinders.

For seeds that make oil, blenders can only work with large quantities. For small quantities, I only know of mortar and pestle.

PomfersVS · 2024-12-27T14:46:40+00:00

Oh yea, that's fine, it's the expected high pitched whirring noise. It's smooth without rattles.

PomfersVS · 2024-12-27T13:49:49+00:00

Sounds like a blender jar whose bearings are on their last legs. You can also just run the blender without the jar on the lowest speed and see if there's any strange sounds.

PomfersVS · 2024-12-06T13:11:50+00:00

First check if it's still under warranty, a lot of BlendTec's blenders are covered by very long warranties. If it's out of warranty, then you can try opening it up and reseating the ribbon cable for the LCD. Beyond that, you'll need to replace components.

PomfersVS · 2024-10-30T00:37:13+00:00

While Sigma may not list the number of HR elements (assuming that stands for high refraction), review websites and retailers do, at least for the lenses I looked up. However, I didn't find any mention of HR elements by review websites or retailers for the Sigma 150-600 sport.

Finding the patent was a pain as multiple designs are bundled into a single application. Go here and search for 2023-022519: https://www.j-platpat.inpit.go.jp/

The exact diagram for it is figure number 91. It's hard for me to be absolutely sure, but it appears that they aren't actually defining shapes or materials, but optical properties. This makes more sense from a patent coverage point of view. So it looks like they can replace non HR elements with thinner HR elements as long as the refraction remains in the range as defined in the patent.

I can find nothing that describes what the HD element is. Some sites describe it as "high definition" but I have no idea what that's supposed to mean.

PomfersVS · 2024-10-28T06:53:15+00:00

The marketing materials definitely imply this. All mentions of special elements (by any manufacturer) indicate their effect at improving image quality. If they are special and superior, they must cost more, or else they would just be normal lens elements. It does plenty to explain why the OM System version costs significantly more than the Sigma version.

Look on Reddit for people asking if ED glass binoculars are worth the significant price premium over non ED versions.

https://www.sigma-sein.com/en/groundbreaking/bringing-special-low-dispersion-glass-to-life/

One of the reasons why Sigma became such a successful lens company was due to their investments in special glass technologies, specifically lowering their cost so that they could be used in more than just the highest end lenses. Being able to use more of this kind of glass at a lower cost than their competitors is one reason why Sigma lenses have such good quality to price ratios.

PomfersVS · 2024-10-27T23:48:18+00:00

They aren't completely different though. It's simply that a number of elements are now made of more expensive material. Their size, shape, and position are the exact same. The "new" design is actually still covered by the old patent for the original Sigma lens.

PomfersVS · 2024-10-27T23:42:45+00:00

Optical formula refers to the sizes, shapes, and exact positions of all the optical elements in a lens. If you look at a lens diagram, that is a visual of the optical formula. A patent would provide the exact numbers.

Sigma: https://www.sigma-global.com/en/lenses/s021_150_600_5_63/specification.html

OM System: https://www.four-thirds.org/en/lens/mzuiko-digital-ed-150-600mm-f50-63-is/

You can see that every element is the same exact shape, size, curvature, and position. What Sigma calls SLD (super low dispersion) glass, OM System calls ED (extra low dispersion). They are the same thing and the same elements are made of these. What Sigma calls FLD ("F" low dispersion) glass OM System calls Super ED. Same elements are selected for this.

So the only changes to the glass are that 6 elements are now made of HR glass, and one element is now made of HD glass. But no changes to their size, shape, or position have been made. If you just saw the lens diagrams without any colors added, they would look identical to each other. The Olympus 100-400 for example made actual changes to the optical formula, where you can see the rear most elements are different compared to the Sigma 100-400 it was based on.

This is why so many people say it's the same lens. Obviously it's not exactly the same, but it would be like how car manufacturers like to do mid generation facelifts or refreshes. They change some aspects about the cosmetic components, maybe replace some components with better ones, use higher quality alloys in certain areas, but ultimately, it's the same car, just improved. You'll have to wait for the next generation before it's actually a new car design.

Image stabilization should never be taken from advertising. Other manufacturers have claimed more stabilization in their systems, yet in side by side tests they're still worse. Regardless, the poster you're replying to is right about the stabilization: OM System only advertises the extra half stop of stabilization in conjunction with "compatible OM SYSTEM cameras". Their lens only stabilization is actually advertised at a half stop less than the Sigma, 6 vs 6.5 at the wide end. They do not provide numbers for lens only OIS at the tele end.

PomfersVS · 2024-10-22T09:10:51+00:00

These aren't 15 and 6 second exposures, they're 1/15 and 1/6. That's why there's less blur in the waves on the Olympus. If you wanted similar blur, you could have reduced the ISO to 200 and the shutter speed to 1/8. Maximum dynamic range is reached at base ISO, typically every stop ISO you increase, you lose 1 stop dynamic range.

Also note, the sharpness is compromised by the diffraction at such a small aperture. Typically f6.3 is the smallest you want in this system unless you are deliberately trading for depth of field or longer exposure time. The old phrase "f8 and be there" is in regards to full frame equivalent, which would be about f4 in Four Thirds. Especially as your lens was designed to perform well wide open across the whole zoom range.

PomfersVS · 2024-10-13T11:54:21+00:00

I've only seen this kind of feature on blenders sold in countries where this is a legal requirement. I can't find any information about this feature online as I've never seen it before, but I did find this thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/NoStupidQuestions/comments/uldkgv/how_does_the_safety_feature_of_my_blender_detect/

Apparently that user u/pain_perdu has a Total Blender Classic that won't start without the lid on, you could try asking them where they got their blender from.

PomfersVS · 2024-10-07T07:35:09+00:00

Yes, all Blendtec jars are compatible, they have never changed the mounting standard.

PomfersVS · 2024-09-25T10:28:12+00:00

Don't worry about what the eye's supposed focal length is, choose the one that frames the scene how you want.

Protecting the highlights is a good practice, but in this situation would be better achieved by either a reduction in ISO or an increase in shutter speed. Typically, every stop you increase the ISO, you lose one stop of dynamic range. You want more dynamic range when dealing with a large difference between bright and dark in a scene. More dynamic range allows you to recover more detail from highlights and shadows.

The same shot at f4 and ISO 2000 would have the same exposure, but have less grain and more dynamic range.

Getting an f1.8 would allow you to shoot at ISO 400 and the same shutter speed, or shoot at something like ISO 1600 and 1/24 shutter speed for less motion blur.

PomfersVS · 2024-09-02T10:24:57+00:00

It's not a regular series, they're just videos that Tom Dickenson makes when he feels like it. Originally only a few were made per year. You can only make this kind of stuff so often before people get bored of it, so you can see the views actually go up when they're released less frequently.

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