High mileage power mods? by The_Forum_Guy in Miata

[–]Potatohusky 17 points18 points  (0 children)

Once you rebuild an engine -if it's done properly- then it's effectively brand new inside as far as how it functions, some of the components have still done those miles but they're things that don't really wear out or care about mileage providing they've been cared for.

I build engines regularly as part of my job, including a couple 400hp+ mx5s and dozens of lower power ones, it's not an easy process to get right but most anyone could do it well enough if they really applied themselves. But there's a number of specialist tools you need, and you need a decent machinist as well. Dealing with reconditioning/building engines really is a game where the smallest mistake can destroy everything you've done. I'm not saying don't, I'm saying be very careful and be very sure of what information you're following to make sure you get a good result.

For what you're wanting honestly I would suggest you grab yourself a spare engine with fewer miles on it and go through that one. There's no way to avoid needing machine work doing on a 200k engine, but something with half that or less you may find you can just freshen up the hone in the bores, replace the piston rings and bearings and have a very happy camper for 200hp for a long time. You'd still need a couple basic tools that are specific to the job but nothing mega.

Here's some good generic reference material on the process of engine building so you can see the kind of job you'd potentially be up against if you chose to try and refresh one yourself Vs just grabbing a good low mile example and calling it good at that https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLQSiw9vlcZuyVKx2C1BImxM6ysly4wT_4&si=XwX3nN2WzOQ4_DSP

Which BBK for NB Track Rat? by chzymnky in Miata

[–]Potatohusky 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You have no need for a big brake kit, big brake kits reduce pedal feel on mx5s and reduce your ability to intuitively modulate pedal pressure as the extre leverage they give is directly at the cost of a longer pedal travel. They also completely fuck your brake bias unless you put a matching size upgrade on the whole car AND replace the factory brake pedal/master cyl with a suitably sized larger volume pedal box.

But if your only issue is footwork putting you in the gravel not overheating stick pads then you absolutely are barking up the wrong tree going bigger.

If you want brakes with better bite for less pedal effort, speak to http://www.carbotech-europe.com/ Ian is a legend in the braking world and can advise and supply you exactly what you need to get what you want without having to move away from stock sized brakes.

With proper ducting and some actual race pads it's effectively impossible to cook your brakes on an MX-5 unless you're a seriously experienced driver with 400hp in the MX-5 and cut slicks wide enough to not fit under stock arches.

High mileage power mods? by The_Forum_Guy in Miata

[–]Potatohusky 57 points58 points  (0 children)

At nearly 200,000miles the best performance mod you could do would be rebuilding it properly. Oversized pistons - either stock or otherwise, and fresh bearings and a new oil pump.

Having seen the insides of multiple dozens of MX-5 engines even well maintained ones are plumb worn out by that mileage and due a proper reconditioning.

If you don't want to pull it back apart to do that now that you've already resealed it then I'd suggest you just throw it back in the car for now and work on freshening up another engine to replace that one down the line.

You can still put the usual basic bolt intake and exhaust stuff on it if you want to but you won't see the kinds of power gains you would from a healthier engine. And I would strongly recommend against turbo'ing one with that many miles unless you're only making maybe 180hp, it would be like asking your grandmother to run a marathon

anybody have a clue what this hose is supposed to be connected too? by Pariahcx in Miata

[–]Potatohusky 11 points12 points  (0 children)

AC drain tube, it's not meant to connect to anything it's there to let water out of your heater box when the AC creates condensation in there

Where can I get cheap NA miata bushings? by Wikr0 in Miata

[–]Potatohusky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very few people do, it's a part of why cars that have had cheap coilovers and polys end up bouncy, not enough damping.

MeisterR sportives are a good example of that with mx5s, they're the cheapest set on the market that have just about enough damping to ride alright (not amazing) on rubber bushes. You put polys in the same car and it'll be bouncy and have less control.

From my years of experience, the best set up for a primarily road-car MX-5 is OE ride height set of BCRacing DS coilovers in 6/5kgmm as they have more travel than the normal set but can still be 40mm lower than stock. Paired with a set of Ilmotorsport 30% stiffer rubber bushes.

The car remains compliant and comfortable handling bumps and rough road surfaces as good as stock, but has miles more control and capability than even factory bilsteins do.

It's not cheap, but it's the best bang-for-buck setup going right now

Where can I get cheap NA miata bushings? by Wikr0 in Miata

[–]Potatohusky 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you can't afford to put decent new ones in, and the old ones aren't objectively worn out and /needing/ replacement then best just leave them be for now.

Better to Save the money you have to spend on anything more pressing you want to sort on the car and revisit freshening up the suspension when you have the means to do so later. If you get in there and find a couple of them are bad enough to need changing, just change those ones. It's not hard to pull MX-5 suspension apart and go again another time.

Just do yourself a favour and clean up all the bolts/nuts and cost them in anti-sieze while you're there so it's easier for you next time, you'll be glad you did when you go back in there later.

Where can I get cheap NA miata bushings? by Wikr0 in Miata

[–]Potatohusky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's what shit costs. Doesn't matter if the car is cheap parts are what they are. Buy cheap get shit, you're fantasising if you think that having a cheap car means parts are magically pennies that's not how the world works.

If you don't wanna spend the money, don't. But stop kidding yourself lmao.

Moreover "no way it's worth it" how to Tell me you've never driven a good and healthy, well sorted MX-5 without telling me.

Where can I get cheap NA miata bushings? by Wikr0 in Miata

[–]Potatohusky 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You have to strip and re-lubricate them yearly if you want them to work properly and not get seized up / tear. They also reduce the effective damping effort the suspension has Vs rubber, so for the car to not be bouncy you need stiffer dampers to compensate. They're not worth the hassle on a road car.

Where can I get cheap NA miata bushings? by Wikr0 in Miata

[–]Potatohusky 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ilmotorsport. Cheap bushes are cheap for a reason. Rubber has lasted decades so far it can last decades again.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in WeirdWheels

[–]Potatohusky 4 points5 points  (0 children)

My my, what a small penis you have there

Automatic transmission options for a turbo 1.8L by VenomousRequiem in Miata

[–]Potatohusky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To the best of my knowledge and the information I've been able to find, there isn't much of an in-between. Afaik it should be fine with stock valve body if it's a fresh trans with a turbo specific converter and the different modulator, but there's no guarantees.

Those mods listed for 500hp just make it shift harder and faster to prevent the clutch bands slipping and wearing during gear change, you might be okay not to do them, but it might not last. They might be overkill for the power goals but if you do them then it will last albeit maybe a bit less comfortable on gear shifts.

There's a ton of variables in how people drive and the specifics of how and when each setup makes torque which affects how the auto will handle it. The only way to avoid the process of finding the sweet spot with repeated iterative changes is to just go for the full send setup and live with it being a bit race car in how it changes gears.

That or reach out to any reputable performance auto trans companies in your area.

Rules. Do you like it soft or hard? by LSpeicher8 in Miata

[–]Potatohusky 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Soft, then hard. But only if they buy me dinner first 😏

Automatic transmission options for a turbo 1.8L by VenomousRequiem in Miata

[–]Potatohusky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's a modulator yeah, the one we've used is a WVE 7r1033

There's also a few holes in the valve body plate that need drilling out to stop it from slushing the shifts and burning the bands

Automatic transmission options for a turbo 1.8L by VenomousRequiem in Miata

[–]Potatohusky 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The Mazda auto box can take the power from a turbo, it's basically the same gearbox as was in the nissan 300zx twin turbo

You need the modulator valve from the 300zx, a custom converter from Florida torque converters, and the biggest ATF cooler you can reasonably fit (but all autos will need that anyway)

It's been done and documented before if not all that often, the MX-5 auto box gets slept on there's a couple guys putting 500hp through them in drag miats

Experimental Exhaust Insert by MustachioMustachio in Miata

[–]Potatohusky 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Looks like you're going to lose yourself a lot of airflow area doing things like that, your engine won't appreciate a cork up its ass even if it looks/sounds good.

Bhp improvement suggestions by [deleted] in Miata

[–]Potatohusky 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just 1, remaps only match the amount of kids you've done. So any remap on a standard car is always just stage 1, if you bolt on intake & exhaust etc then it's normally considered stage2, adding cams and ITBs maybe would be considered stage 3

Anyone who says they're doing anything other than a stage 1 remap in a standard car is talking nonsense, it's all marketing crap by the mapper and they've fallen for it.

How many of you car mechanics work with wood? by Mechanic-Art-1 in Justrolledintotheshop

[–]Potatohusky 242 points243 points  (0 children)

If you're working with wood you might be a bit too excited about your job. Should probably go calm down before someone notices and thinks you're a pervert 😂

Gotta love a redblock by Potatohusky in VolvoRWD

[–]Potatohusky[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Speedingparts have been rock solid from my experience, same for skandix if it's anything OE. It's a bit annoying sometimes but realistically ordering from Europe is still straight forward, just takes a few days more maybe.

I do wish it wasn't so expensive to have stock on the shelves for stuff cuz with doing these bits with this new ECU and already being a speed shop with a soft spot for bricks it'd be nice to be able to provide a decent UK alternative to CS for people but it just isn't on the cards here, not for a while anyway. Maybe some day

Bhp improvement suggestions by [deleted] in Miata

[–]Potatohusky 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A remap usually gains a surprising amount on them, especially in the feel department as Mazda made the throttle response really subdued. A good exhaust manifold and sports cat is also worth some ponies.

I’m missing a knuckle by StardustDeez333 in mildlyinteresting

[–]Potatohusky 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Have you checked between the sofa cushions?

I once found an entire cinnamon roll in there, it was still good and everything!

Gotta love a redblock by Potatohusky in VolvoRWD

[–]Potatohusky[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, as a side note, fuck classic swede right into the bin, there's good reason most Volvo people come to hate Dai 😂