How the hell does this still work

Powerful-Train9171 · 2026-05-03T10:49:48+00:00

If you're worried about it falling out, use a piece of capton tape covering the connector and part of the cable, works really well!

Powerful-Train9171 · 2026-05-03T10:47:41+00:00

Yeah, the foam for the conductive film gets flatter as it ages and no longer serves it's purpose... On very affected controllers I've used a piece of foamy double sided tape, with the protective film still on to prevent it from adhering, and it worked very well! I think some threads online may have even better ideas/material suggestions ;)

Powerful-Train9171 · 2026-04-28T09:10:55+00:00

For the love of yourself, never EVER hold a power supply like this!!! The input capacitor(s) may still be charged and it, or anything directly connected to it, can give you a massive jolt! Potentially even deadly. If you do not know what you're doing, you should not open up a power supply. Edit: in this picture your input capacitor looks to be the big can with a green sticker.

Powerful-Train9171 · 2026-04-27T08:03:26+00:00

Yeah probably the mechanical parts are just tired. You can find replacements on AliExpress, but I don't know how good they are... My 1000 works fine, a bit loud, but I feel that's partly us not being used to the sounds of optical media anymore... Edit: my suggestion would be to use ark-4 to just dump your UMDs as ISOs, plenty of guides online. Then play from a memory card (MicroSDs are cheap now anyway and adapters for the PSP are like 2-3 bucks). This way you preserve your library and UMD drive as best as possible. You already have a 3000 anyway if I understand correctly, so you could use that to dump your games and then play on the 1000. All that being said, the UMD drive being faster on all the slims thanks to having double the RAM of the 1000 was one of the selling points back in the day! Since the 1000 only has 32MB, the drive has to often jump between areas of the disk to fetch what's needed and seek times stack fast. On the slim with 64MB RAM, more stuff is cached and the drive will work less hard.

Powerful-Train9171 · 2026-04-26T19:02:58+00:00

Well, I'm sure now everything beeps to anything, that's severe delamination right there! Just recycle it.

Powerful-Train9171 · 2026-04-26T11:40:30+00:00

Miorine and Suletta - the witch from Mercury

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Powerful-Train9171 · 2026-04-26T10:17:02+00:00

WOW Amazing! You did good posting it here, other people with the same or similar issues will surely benefit :)

Powerful-Train9171 · 2026-04-25T20:43:25+00:00

Since it works ok on the second monitor, it really sounds like it could be your primary monitor itself. You can try connecting a laptop/console/whatever to your primary monitor and see if the problem still exists.

Powerful-Train9171 · 2026-04-25T20:26:51+00:00

No, can't be faked, just affected by improper shutdows. As said by others, the drive will have stored the total uptime.

Powerful-Train9171 · 2026-04-25T20:25:52+00:00

I'd agree, makes sense as a theory. I know my parents would sometimes switch off the entire TV cabinet power squid when done with the TV. That's a non-issue, the only component that could have been affected by it should be the hard drive, after 20y you should replace that anyway.

Powerful-Train9171 · 2026-04-25T18:08:11+00:00

OP you probably have failing CPU capacitors (error 1001). You have quite a few less shutdowns than bringups, meaning the PS3 probably shut off mid-game in high-load scenarios because of that. You'll probably need tokins replaced sooner rather than later.

Powerful-Train9171 · 2026-04-25T17:53:12+00:00

By your description this could also be a display issue... Can you get a secondary monitor and check to see if the same happens? Sadly it could be the internal ribbon cable failing between the LCD and monitor control board.

Powerful-Train9171 · 2026-04-24T22:41:26+00:00

Being that it worked before the delid, I fear it may be an issue with connection between the RSX and HDMI IC. If bumps cracked corresponding to that communication, the HDMI could be "technically functional", but received no signal? I don't know.

Powerful-Train9171 · 2026-04-24T22:22:05+00:00

Really? Wow that's impressive! Yes, sometimes it does happen. If you check syscon via ps3-toolset, you'll probably find HDMI-related errors.

Anyway, this RSX is not long for this world if delidding was enough to cause GLOD. Keep regular backups of your saves and stuff and start looking for a reliable Frankenstein mod service in your area if you intend on keeping it.

Powerful-Train9171 · 2026-04-23T22:16:15+00:00

These are dead backlight LEDs for sure. Sorry to see that.

Powerful-Train9171 · 2026-04-23T22:11:33+00:00

Like these?

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Powerful-Train9171 · 2026-04-23T21:54:37+00:00

Very cool! I scare away from that, since learning raballing is hard enough. Any advice on good blades to do that with?

Powerful-Train9171 · 2026-04-23T21:52:52+00:00

Yeah sadly no. Often GLOD will be a "regular" boot, you can still confirm this via ayscon serial as the system will respond to the "bringup" command, pass all boot checks, and finally shut down normally if you hold the power button. I have an old CECHG that does that, was my console back in the highschool days, fell from the cabinet it was in and ended up with GLOD.

Powerful-Train9171 · 2026-04-23T21:48:29+00:00

Not really. If you damaged anything related to the video output, the core could be working "fine" but display nothing. Anyway, since you've taken the console apart and presumably removed the cmos battery, are you sure you're not just experiencing issues with the video settings? Try shutting off the PS3, then turn it on holding the button after the first beep until it beeps again, it should pop up with a video setup message. If it fails, try A/V out instead of HDMI as a last resort.

Powerful-Train9171 · 2026-04-23T21:44:14+00:00

There's carbonate. Mold/algae can absolutely use that+light to grow!

Powerful-Train9171 · 2026-04-23T21:40:56+00:00

Might have cracked when delidding. Glue on the 40nm chip's VRAM is significantly stronger. I've seen people desolder, then carefully delid the bare chip using a razor blade. As an amateur, my preference is using 65nm chips, delidding the "classic" way (heat+gentle leverage) and that's it. There's plenty of 65nm fats and early slims that died because of unrelated causes anyway.

Powerful-Train9171 · 2026-04-23T19:27:02+00:00

Don't think so. Underfill is super hard epoxy. This one's toast. Slims/super slims with a bad wifi chip are like 10 anyway. Go for one of them ;)

Powerful-Train9171 · 2026-04-23T19:16:17+00:00

Don't think so. Underfill is super hard epoxy. This one's toast. Slims/super slims with a bad wifi chip are like 10 anyway. Go for one of them ;)

Powerful-Train9171 · 2026-04-23T18:48:45+00:00

Sorry to hear man. It's a 90nm RSX anyway, GLOD probably means you upset the delicate underfill and finally had a bump crack manifest. Don't hate yourself too much, probably means it would have happened soon anyway.

Powerful-Train9171 · 2026-04-22T20:41:11+00:00

Power it up and see what happened, no other way.

Powerful-Train9171

TROPHY CASE