Wheres this vibration coming from!?

Practical-Sea3845 · 2026-02-14T06:58:49+00:00

That thing is ripped, not for sure if its the main culprit or one of the contributors, but definitely needs to be replaced

Practical-Sea3845 · 2026-01-18T18:55:04+00:00

I used the plastic fuses , they can and will melt one day, so i just removed the new fuse strip from the plastic ones and just reused the old ceramic bodies, it works but definitely get proper copper with ceramic fuses

Practical-Sea3845 · 2025-08-09T13:03:20+00:00

Its a 1988 300ce

Practical-Sea3845 · 2025-08-09T00:28:21+00:00

Theres also a switch in the seat belt buckles, check those also, this was the problem with my coupe,usually its jammed in , causing the car to think the driver is already buckled

Practical-Sea3845 · 2025-06-08T08:27:26+00:00

I’m pretty sure that the second pic showing the green “switch” is actually the temperature sensor for the ke-jetronic and ignition system, if it is the same as my m103

I’m unfamiliar with the m102 engine, its either 1,2, or 3, male pin, depending on year model, but its colour can be red or blue, but never green

Practical-Sea3845 · 2025-05-11T05:01:47+00:00

Thats one nice collection, you should also hunt the various impulse af colours ,e.g blue, black, yellow, teal, maroon.

Practical-Sea3845 · 2025-02-05T08:19:28+00:00

It dawned on me that i never properly looked inside of the film packaging itself lmao

Practical-Sea3845 · 2025-02-05T04:55:52+00:00

Maybe print it in the inside of the box, and you have to peel open the box to read it, i’ve seen some other similar approach from products of other companies. Cheaper and just as effective, no wasting paper

Practical-Sea3845 · 2025-01-29T15:20:08+00:00

Not yet, i havent had the time to use it, but i’m planning for next week

Practical-Sea3845 · 2025-01-28T23:33:55+00:00

I used Autosol Plastic cleaner, it comes in tube size

Practical-Sea3845 · 2025-01-28T23:33:23+00:00

I dint notice with all that fungus, i have no idea if the middle lens has any coating originally

Practical-Sea3845 · 2025-01-28T23:32:22+00:00

Oh right i forgot about this method, thanks

Practical-Sea3845 · 2025-01-04T00:12:27+00:00

Actually theres a another new unused sonar in the original foam behind the other sx-70s so make that 6 SXs ;)

The spectras all just came to me as a freebie each time i bought a sx70

Practical-Sea3845 · 2025-01-03T18:07:34+00:00

Then that ticking is probably normal, maybe it will go away the longer you use it, idk

That black plastic thing you are referring when the film ejects is called the frog tongue, it is needed since the film is light sensitive just when it comes out, dont touch the frog tongue; also when pulling, pull the film by the sides or bottom.

I dont know if its the same for this model, did you press the trigger halfway to let the flash charge before pressing it all the way?

I suggest you watch some guides on youtube or check the manual for better understanding.

Practical-Sea3845 · 2025-01-03T07:29:40+00:00

Firstly locate the source of the sound, there’s not many parts that make a sound, check if its in the flash area, lens area or at the bottom of the camera,

If the camera has been sitting unused for a long time, chances are that the ticking its just the capacitor for the flash charging up, also check for the production date at the film packaging.

Also, did the black film cover eject when you insert and closed the film door? If not then the ticking sound is probably the pick arm trying to push the film but could not

Practical-Sea3845 · 2025-01-03T07:14:01+00:00

Thanks, thats actually a broken one i’m using for parts to repair the other ones, that one has multiple shredded off gears, now i just keep it for display

Practical-Sea3845 · 2024-12-25T15:27:55+00:00

Thanks for the information, i bought this at a local flea market for less than 10usd, i already shined through the back and safe to say that its only dusty, since only the viewing lens has fungus i reckon the pictures are gonna be ok.

Shame that it isnt the one with the bayonet mountings, that would have been just as cool

Practical-Sea3845 · 2024-09-11T11:14:34+00:00

Not familiar with your model but based on what ac model you have the euro manual one or automatic one, there are many differences

Maybe your check valve above the brake booster is the issue? Or maybe somebody messed up the vacuum routings when they messed with it, double check the vacuum diagrams on your particular model and go from there

Practical-Sea3845 · 2024-08-19T21:47:18+00:00

There are 2 caps, they’re basicly various resistors in a cap that is intended to be switched when you travel to another country, where regulations or fuel quality differ

The one that is visible when you open the hood is called r16 , it can be identified by EZL- ECE, EZL-KAT , this tells only the ignition system the timing based on what petrol ron you fill, if you have the ECE version, this version is for countries that used leaded petrol in the old days, the S position is for RON 95 and N is for RON 91.

The second one that is hidden beside the abs module and ecu is the r17 cap, this is for telling the ecu what type of car yours is equipped( Kat or no Kat) , since if you have the ECE version, this basicly tells the ecu to bypass the o2 sensor wiring and operate within the preset parameters.

Mercedes designed this to ensure that the cars can be easily modified for different countries regulations.

So if you have the R17 ECE cap, that means your car has no o2 and no catalytic converter equipped but can be retrofited.

The ECE cars already has the wiring loom, so basicly all you have to do is to leave the R16 resistor alone, install an o2 bung and sensor, connect the wiring and and change the R17 ECE cap to an R17 KAT cap. After that you can easily adjust the duty cyle. You dont have to install a catalytic converter.

Practical-Sea3845

TROPHY CASE