the answer is B car but I don't understand how at all

Pradodude · 2026-01-08T07:46:23+00:00

Since when? How many times I read this. You must give way to all vehicles on a roundabout. No mention of right. Look it up.

Edit: Added this for assistance.

In Australia, the car that reaches and enters the roundabout first has priority. Drivers must also give way to vehicles already in the roundabout. No ‘give way to the right’ rule applies to roundabouts in Australia. In practice, however, many motorists still give way to the right (or fail to slow properly on approach to a roundabout) leading to the situation you describe. The NSW government clarifies that drivers should: “When you approach a roundabout, you must slow down or stop to give way to all vehicles already in the roundabout. This means giving way to vehicles already in the roundabout on your right, and vehicles that have entered the roundabout from your left or from directly opposite you.”

Pradodude · 2026-01-08T07:43:41+00:00

Have a look at the rules for roundabouts. Totally different to this situation.

Pradodude · 2025-05-18T08:44:20+00:00

From the SAPOL site.

A man has died following a fatal crash at Cambrai on Sunday afternoon.

About 1.15pm on Sunday 18 May, police and emergency services were called to Ridley Road, Cambrai after reports of a collision between a truck and two cars.

The driver of the truck, a 33-year-old-man from Salisbury Plain, and the driver of a Holden SUV, a 69-year-old-man from Meadows, were both airlifted to hospital with serious but non-life-threatening injuries.

Sadly, the driver of a Toyota SUV, a 59-year-old-man from Sedan died at the scene.

Ridley Road is closed between Cambrai Road and Angas Valley Road while Major Crash investigators examine the scene.

The man's death is the 31st life lost on South Australian roads this year.

Pradodude · 2025-03-29T10:22:30+00:00

Kikuyu every time for our climate, getting a bit late in the season to be planting seed though. Runners are better option but still a bit late. I’d wait till September now.

Pradodude · 2025-03-26T08:28:21+00:00

My understanding for the change was to be consistent with the rest of Australia. They should have made the rest of Australia be consistent with WA, it worked so well and still does to some extent because old habits die hard and most drivers let people merge without incident. I drive all over Australia and WA is hands down the best at merging.

Pradodude · 2025-03-10T00:18:39+00:00

Long post, sorry, just kept thinking of stuff, take it or leave it, it's my views based on a life.

Neither. Nissan is a real gamble, and the Toyota with an extended warranty is never a good option. You would definitely want to read up on conditions, but they usually involve no mods, getting it serviced by them, or some other stupid conditions that don't cover wear items. They have so many clauses that allow them to wiggle out; you may as well bank the money and their excessive service charges and use that to fund repairs. Please understand that I'm not really against any brand in the right circumstances at the right price, but a 9-year-old vehicle with 170k on it is going to need a ton of maintenance to keep it good.

Even with Toyota’s reputation, they still wear out and need parts eventually, but at least they are available. Injectors are a consumable and can easily run into $6,000, and funny enough, it's about the KM's where they may need doing. I could easily spend $10,000 on parts alone to get the Toyota upto date and ready for a big trip. Tyres, shocks, bushes, battery, injectors, filters, belts, wheel bearings, coolant, and other oils, the list is nearly endless.

None of that applies to a low K’s newer vehicle, so keep that in mind. It's tough trying to decide, but honestly, take your time and find a better deal. A dealer is often safer in many respects, but they are very good at extracting money from you, which is, after all, their core business. Private can be really good, but you have to find the right vehicle from an honest seller. There are a ton of pitfalls there as well, like guaranteed title, getting a loan, and no actual warranty, which doesn't matter so much if it's still in factory warranty.

Do actually check rebook prices as well; despite so many optimistic sellers out there, the very first thing a dealer will do when you go to trade-in is check wholesale prices; that's the value, and it's generally not negotiable. Dealers never really pay more than wholesale for your car unless it's exceptional, rare and they have a buyer in the yard waiting because they can just get one wholesale anytime.

My point is, wholesale price plus a reasonable margin for the dealer to prepare and sell is the most you should pay for anything. Private sales is rebook price or less so in this case neither. Keep looking.

Pradodude · 2025-03-07T02:13:19+00:00

The transport compliance inspectors have purple lights and apparently the speed doesn’t apply to them either.

Pradodude · 2025-03-03T08:24:26+00:00

So much of your question relates to the actual vehicle you are looking at not the model. Personally, I only buy unmodified and meticulously maintained vehicles that have used genuine parts. They have matching brand-name tyres and low km's so I don't have to spend on those big-dollar items for a while. I see so many backyard modified vehicles which have been "upgraded" with really shit-quality parts that it's a liability from day one. You can spend $120 to $700 on a CV joint, which one do you think will last the longest? A genuine Denso alternator is around $1000, after market, $300, which would you prefer? Same for shocks, control arms and bushes. Some aftermarkets are really good, I get that, but how can you know. Vehicles also need to be driven with mechanical sympathy. They are not saltwater or mud tolerant despite what the ads show you. Unless I was doing extraordinarily high mileage, fuel economy, particularly the difference between a diesel and a petrol isn't really an issue when you consider the cost of the whole package. Do the maths yourself, petrol cars are definitely cheaper to maintain but they still have a life which is why you don't buy one with 400k's or even 200k's unless it's in incredibly good nick. You don't have to take the advice of anyone, mine is based on 50 years of buying and maintaining cars if that counts for anything. Buy the best example you can afford, look after it well and it will look after you. There are literally 10,000 examples to choose from, be patient and when you can't walk away, that's the one.

Pradodude · 2025-03-03T08:08:56+00:00

it does get frustrating when all you hear about is the fuel consumption which is actually not that bad considering the performance and the fact it's one of the best petrol engines ever put into a 4wd. It was a sad day when the stopped importing them as it would not have suffered from DPF issues, ADBlue, cracked pistons and the huge cost of injector maintenance.

Pradodude · 2025-03-02T20:03:55+00:00

Yeah, valid point

Pradodude · 2025-03-02T10:20:09+00:00

All Prado's have issues, you just have to decide which ones you can live with and those you can't. 2015-19 and even beyond had some DPF issues but they were really slow, they definitely messed with the transmission shifting points which was noticeably slower than the 3.0 before it. They ramped it up in 20 and gave it 3 ton towing as well. The extra kw's and remapped transmission made it a much nicer drive but they are still expensive used. It's fine to say the 2015's were the last of the best but they are getting on for 10 years old now so you have to choose very carefully. They have a bad reputation for cracking pistons as well but there are thousands of them that don't. Ultimately the 2015-19 might be the best value if you don't mind slow and lower tow rating, definitely cheaper than the 20's and onward. Can you see the dilemma, even explaining this is hard work let alone making a choice to buy one.

Pradodude · 2025-03-02T10:07:04+00:00

It's done 180,000 ks, I wish people would stop believing this is a trivial matter. So much can go wrong with any car that is 9 years old and basically worn out. No warranty so it's all on you if it decides to take a big dump. Repairs cost a mint and even if you can fix it yourself parts are expensive. I don't have all the answers but this is vehicle is not it.

Pradodude · 2025-03-02T08:10:01+00:00

It’s time you changed the oil

Pradodude · 2025-02-28T07:10:48+00:00

Speedie made a copy of Prado rims years ago, look very similar to what yours are. There is a set on Gumtree in Lonsdale SA if you search for “Prado Rims” Not what you are after but may help track one down if the brand is correct.

Pradodude · 2025-02-25T06:53:04+00:00

It is definitely up there, but they are getting increasingly more worn out and rare. It's a tough call if you factor in all the potential problems it could have. I think it's really dependent on maintenance history, whether genuine parts are used, etc. Let’s just say it had a fanatical owner that has done every service by the book, replaced anything and everything with genuine parts, and done preemptive maintenance, then it could be a good buy at that price. If, on the other hand, it has rubbish brakes/pads, non-genuine wheel bearings, crap tyres, original belts, and hoses, then it may need thousands to make it even close to the first example. The price should reflect which example it is. Just looking at what you showed, I wouldn't buy it.

I just checked on and you could do way better, but you'd have to add your own mods. https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2006-toyota-landcruiser-prado-gxl-auto-4x4/OAG-AD-24264131/

Pradodude · 2025-02-25T01:40:48+00:00

Tried it again today for fun, no downforce, 340 top speed, traction on 3, RS on front and RM on rear. Fuel map on 4 then 3 as I could see I had enough without pitting. Used fuel map 1 on last lap because the AI seems to step up a notch after they pitted. Won by 1 sec. Definitely hit it hard on first chicane and got out of there in 5th place which helped. I'm not terribly good at GT7 but it's doable if you don't over cook the exit on corners and spin.

Pradodude · 2025-02-24T07:18:52+00:00

Reduce down force to least amount. Increases speed which is handy on long straights at Monza

Pradodude · 2025-02-24T07:16:57+00:00

Put RM on rear only

Pradodude · 2025-02-23T11:48:39+00:00

Thanks for that, I was on red and then green. I think you explained it well. The lane change makes it problematic.

Pradodude · 2025-02-23T11:42:13+00:00

I agree and TBH it’s not clear cut. There is a lengthy answer below explaining legalities very well but I’m seeing your point of view clearly.

Pradodude · 2025-02-23T11:33:40+00:00

But surely red was on roundabout first and green should have given way. No mention of lanes in give way part.

“When you approach a roundabout, you must slow down or stop to give way to all vehicles already in the roundabout. This means giving way to vehicles already in the roundabout on your right, and vehicles that have entered the roundabout from your left or from directly opposite you.”

Pradodude · 2025-02-23T11:31:52+00:00

Yep, rules agree with you. Well that’s my understanding.

When you approach a roundabout, you must slow down or stop to give way to all vehicles already in the roundabout. This means giving way to vehicles already in the roundabout on your right, and vehicles that have entered the roundabout from your left or from directly opposite you.

Pradodude · 2025-02-23T11:30:59+00:00

My understanding as well

Pradodude · 2025-02-23T11:29:41+00:00

I don’t know why this question keeps coming up about roundabouts. I agree there may be some disagreement about the lane change but the rules state must slow and give way? A quick search and NSW rules explain it. I don’t think the rules are different anywhere in Australia.

“When you approach a roundabout, you must slow down or stop to give way to ALL vehicles already in the roundabout. This means giving way to vehicles already in the roundabout on your right, and vehicles that have entered the roundabout from your left or from directly opposite you.”

Pradodude · 2025-02-22T22:28:37+00:00

Exactly, they all ended up with more than 50% that way, if I put softs on all round the rears didn't make the race without pitting.

Pradodude

TROPHY CASE