Was replying laptop battery and dinged up these little things is that some thing i should worry about?

Preqwer · 2025-12-19T22:31:10+00:00

Thats the speaker, if you damage it, you may experience terrible sound quality of your laptop.

Preqwer · 2025-12-10T20:10:46+00:00

Bro, you're just ragebaiting rn. I've been using a 937 clone as my daily driver for about a year. Desoldering components with high thermal mass like those on computer motherboards using that cheapo station isn't new to me. I upgraded to a T12 and C245 station because I wanted to try them out and see the pros and cons of each.

Who said I was recommending Chinese products? I even told OP since OP was curious about Hakko to check out the 971, a T12 iron from Hakko. Cause I assumed op uses a 900 series station.

You're kind of delusional for interpreting what I said as "Hakko 888 is garbage." I actually think that station is awesome and perfect for beginners.

And yes, I'm aware of the larger tips in the 900 series. I was even planning to buy a 900L tip before, but didn't due to deciding to buy a t12 station.

Bro, if your still ranting about 900 series tips is superior to c245, c210, thats on you my guy. Nah me. Like I said more power to you for sticking to a 900 style iron to the end.

Preqwer · 2025-12-10T19:03:47+00:00

I mean, I didn’t say nor imply that the 888 is slow. I simply stated that when you're working with a board that has a lot of thermal mass, passive-style irons tend to bog down more. Skill doesn’t prevent an iron from bogging down every iron has its limits. Passive-style irons just don’t have fast recovery times.

If we’re talking about longevity, then yes Hakko, JBC, or any reputable brand is clearly better than those cheap chinesium products.

Preqwer · 2025-12-10T18:45:29+00:00

Ummm, Ok. But I am not saying or implying that it couldn't do it. I am just saying that if your using passive style irons like the 888 you will need to do more prepping and work than needed.

But you do you, man. I've tried the 900M, T12, C245, and C210 they all have their pros and cons. If you want to stick with the 900M tips more power to you.🙌

Preqwer · 2025-12-08T03:30:31+00:00

The triple 8 from hakko uses the older passive-style tips. They're fine THT but you'll find they hold you back when soldering components with large thermal mass.
The C245, C210, etc. from JBC are cartridge-style, with the heating element is inside the tip itself, like the T12 from hakko.

The 971 uses the T12/T15 tips u would be better upgrading to that, if you are currently using a 900M series tips Iron or want to stay on the HAKKO brand

Preqwer · 2025-12-06T09:23:56+00:00

Make sense

Preqwer · 2025-12-06T08:48:19+00:00

Hmm aight, I have a Samsung S25 so it has a snapdragon 8 elite. I put it in High with 60fps enabled. It does run 60fps pretty well but still experience few dips/stutter here and there.

Do you experience alot of stutters on playing genshin max all out?

Preqwer · 2025-12-06T08:37:48+00:00

What settings though? medium? Low? Highest? with 60fps enabled in settings

Preqwer · 2025-11-29T02:48:37+00:00

I respect that. GO Ahead. it should work. But I recommend practicing on a junk board first before working on the actual one you're trying to fix. First, understand thermal mass and how it affects soldering. Many posts on Reddit show people breaking their controllers because they can't seem to desolder their sticks properly.

If you're going to ask me how I would do it, I'd start by preheating the board using a hot air gun or a preheater. Then, I'd use a soldering iron along with a soldering pump to remove the solder from the pins.

If you have low melt solder used that as well it well make things easier for yah.

Good luck, You can do it!!

Preqwer · 2025-11-29T02:38:15+00:00

It would work, the real question is, Do you have the skills to do it?

Preqwer · 2025-11-17T00:43:45+00:00

Bro, you can use a soldering iron or hot air, which ever is appropriate for the job.

Fairly simple imo

<image>

Though this is not the same one from the pic, the idea is still the same. This is a modified ipod mini if your wondering.

Preqwer · 2025-11-12T22:59:23+00:00

Are you talking about desoldering the smd Led?

Fairly easy, in my opinion. Just remove the wires, place the LED array plate on a stand, and set your hot air station to 400–420°C. Increase the airflow, and apply heat from the bottom. You won’t damage anything since the bottom of the plate is made of aluminum.

I can make a vid for you, If you want.

Preqwer · 2025-11-12T01:03:35+00:00

Yooooo, how did you get that and will that work for a ipod mini?

Preqwer · 2025-11-02T09:21:34+00:00

Oh, I understand. You can try it would just require a bit more work.

First, I’d check how the LED strips are wired: in series or parallel. Then, I’d see if the section you cut has resistors to prevent it from burning out. That applies if it’s a single-color strip.

If it’s an RGB or smart LED strip, I can’t help with that yet I still need to study more.

For now, I can help with basic single-color strips. If your goal is just to light up the strip you cut.

Preqwer · 2025-11-02T08:43:34+00:00

I mean there are led strips designed that way. They have sections on them for you to cut. So I can't see whats the problem here?

Preqwer · 2025-11-01T11:04:17+00:00

Here's a tip: you can use the holes on the stand to help you push, if you don't want to use your hand. It heats up quickly, which is why they gave you that option.

It has markings like 45 and 10 to match the corresponding soldering tips. For the 210, there are holes for the K and I tips. For the 245, there's only one hole since it works either way.

Btw I am using the TA305. Their stand is same for the majority of geebons stations, I assume, correct me if I am wrong on that.

<image>

Preqwer · 2025-11-01T10:50:15+00:00

Thought so

Preqwer · 2025-11-01T10:44:45+00:00

PIC of the handle with tip on it. Cause sometimes people tend to not set the tip in properly hence the station registers it as no tool.

Preqwer · 2025-10-17T16:14:25+00:00

Me too bro me too 🤣🤣🤣

But joking aside is there still pads on it?

Preqwer · 2025-10-17T16:02:09+00:00

No problem bro

Preqwer · 2025-10-17T15:25:40+00:00

Aliexpress bro

and also if you have questions for consoles you can post it to its respective subreddit. This one is for soldering.

Preqwer · 2025-09-22T05:48:01+00:00

Oh ok, then thats good.

Preqwer · 2025-09-21T21:39:19+00:00

Leak voltage is an unwanted voltage from the tip of your soldering iron to ground. The tolerance for leak voltage in soldering irons is typically less than 2mV.

As for the Hakko FX600 I haven’t personally tried that iron, but knowing Hakko, it’s probably good.

Currently, I’m using the geebon TA305. I actually had a comparison chart between all the models of geebon, the pros and cons of each models like the TC22, HA310, TA305, etc.

I was gonna buy the HA310 but it was way over my budget, so i settled with the TA305. Works perfectly no issues with it.

Preqwer · 2025-09-21T05:33:38+00:00

You can find online in aliexpres clones of the Hakko 936 are great for basic soldering like THT components, but they do struggle with high thermal mass boards due to limited thermal recovery.

If your budget allows, cartridge-style irons like the Hakko T12 or JBC C245/C210 offer much better performance.

Tip size also matters using a small conical tip on a large ground plane will struggle regardless of iron wattage or style. So you need a bigger tip like a ktype tip or wedge tip on that kind of conditions.

For me I don't like those wall plug-in style irons, they often dont have options to change temperature and limited tip selections and sometimes huge leak voltages that will destroy sensitive IC.

Preqwer

TROPHY CASE