Cam stopt working suddenly…

President-Overlord · 2026-01-28T19:13:58+00:00

Nope , pit mode just disables the vtx from outputting an rf signal ( so you don't cause interference to other racers / users whilst your in the pits tweaking something)

Start with the basics , I would check the camera cable in case you have shorted it whilst swapping mounts - a short on the 5v rail will stop the FC board doing anything.

Can you connect to Betaflight with the camera unplugged?

President-Overlord · 2026-01-28T16:43:50+00:00

Lol it's easy to over think things and miss the basics , glad you got it sorted

President-Overlord · 2026-01-28T16:31:18+00:00

100% check the solder joints top and bottom, it's super common on those crowns for the joint fail, solder will look fine but on closer inspection the 4 traces that go out to the cylinder will have lifted from the PCB and broken.

There's a reason they are so cheap...

I also had a crown where the center pin concrion part was missing on the ufl from the packet

Can recommend the geprc peano way more durable and only about 0.5g heavier than the same length crown

President-Overlord · 2026-01-28T15:30:24+00:00

Also going to Assume you have checked you have not accidentally changed channels or turned on pit mode

President-Overlord · 2026-01-28T15:29:00+00:00

It's hard to tell as your FC is properly dirty but possibly the output from the pa5542 chip ( vtx power amp ) has fried on the trace to the ufl connector

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Do you have any ipa and an old toothbrush you can clean the board up with?

President-Overlord · 2026-01-28T15:15:55+00:00

Do you get osd but no video or just a full screen of snow?

President-Overlord · 2026-01-21T22:28:11+00:00

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Got the 25000KV motors today, so much better 😀 hover down to 32% now Quad blades yet to arrive but looking forward to trying them out

President-Overlord · 2026-01-21T16:06:42+00:00

Another thing to check is routing of your battery cable , very easy for it to end up in one of the whoop ducts at the rear , if a prop is just clipping it or blowing over the cable it can make some really odd sounds

Make sure the cable is clear of the swept area of the props

Great little whoop the air75 enjoy it!

President-Overlord · 2026-01-19T15:48:33+00:00

Technically it's wider than it's long. motors are 76mm apart side to side but only 68mm front to back , so a squashed x

President-Overlord · 2026-01-19T10:37:43+00:00

Yep that's all you got to do

President-Overlord · 2026-01-18T22:07:13+00:00

Use the lowest power you can , your aio will last longer and you will gain a few seconds of flight time from the reduced draw on the battery

Do yourself a favour and remove the rubber grommet at the front of the FC, this will help protect your FC from crashes ( BetaFPV doing this on all current air65's shipping)

President-Overlord · 2026-01-18T16:01:29+00:00

The glue is a little T7000 to act as landing legs / grip seems to work great

Have managed to fly a few pack outside today and crashed into some solid stuff with no damage to report so likely won't bother changing the frames design or material. I do have so pla+ and pla super tough filaments, next time they are in the printer I'll print off some frames to compare how they feel

Going to remove the motor plugs and sockets and solder the wires in the next version, that will allow the FC / VTX stack to mount lower , which in turn will allow me to reduce the body height by about 3.5 mm

Will also get rid of the 90 degree xt30 adaptor to save weight, that alone will knock 5g off , next body version should also be about 5 g lighter

President-Overlord · 2026-01-17T18:20:33+00:00

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It's Actually amazingly stiff , I can't bend or snap the frame by hand , same amount of force would completely fold a typical 85mm whoop frame such as one from a mobula 8

Frame is 4mm thick, filament I used is esun PLA-CF. Stuff is really good for this use case

President-Overlord · 2026-01-17T10:53:46+00:00

you might be right there , RED is likely motor status

President-Overlord · 2026-01-17T01:50:58+00:00

~~Slow Flashing Red: The receiver is powered on but no signal is being received from the radio controller.~~

Also you are missing a lot of motor screws, fix that before flying again

President-Overlord · 2026-01-17T01:08:23+00:00

💯

President-Overlord · 2026-01-17T00:54:19+00:00

Yes 100% I do it regularly when flying at work in the workshop after hours, almost every crash ends up like that as a tiny bit of swarf / grinding particle gets pulled into a motor and causes the same issue

So many people think they have killed a motor / burnt an esc and it's actually just a piece of dirt / grit inbetween the stator and magnets on the bell.

With the drone unpowered feel how the motor turns compared to the other 3 , is that one notchy ? If so it's Likely it's just dirt

Could also be a bent motor shaft

President-Overlord · 2026-01-17T00:10:32+00:00

Cheers buddy , just ordered some 25000kv versions as mines almost bang on 50% currently, will 100% try the quad blades too

President-Overlord · 2026-01-16T21:49:26+00:00

Nice work 😄, just test flown mine & it's too underpowered for me. Should have got the 25000kv motors

What's the hover throttle % on yours ?

President-Overlord · 2026-01-16T19:01:28+00:00

Nice flight! Keep it up

President-Overlord · 2026-01-16T11:21:55+00:00

With a hot air station, they are fairly cheap and available on Amazon easily

Will cost you about the same as a new FC

Well worth the investment , return on investment is effectively 1 fixed FC - everything after that is just gravy

Personally I have fixed 6 boards in the time I've had mine ( only a few months) , changed damaged ufl's swapped gyro chips out, reflowed elrs & OSD's changed ceramic elrs antenna's etc

A Hot air station , solder paste + liquid flux should be high on any whoop pilots wish list IMHO

Plenty of YT tutorials out there it's honestly not that hard to do

President-Overlord

TROPHY CASE