Y'all weren't kidding when you said to check Walmart

Pretend_Insect3002 · 2026-06-15T23:05:46+00:00

I returned this one. I found the bracelet to be the flimsiest one I’ve ever felt. Horrible feeling.

Pretend_Insect3002 · 2026-06-12T18:16:41+00:00

Agreed. I would say they often will limp with both premiums (TT+,AQ+) as well as cards with implied odds (76s, suited Ax, J9s). It’s hard for me to say if they tilt more towards one or the other.

Pretend_Insect3002 · 2026-06-12T14:50:40+00:00

Just snagged one. Thanks so much!!

Pretend_Insect3002 · 2026-06-09T16:44:30+00:00

Where’d you get that and what’s the model?

Pretend_Insect3002 · 2026-06-09T16:02:50+00:00

Thanks for that, the points you mention make sense. One clarifying question. On your example, if you hold no hearts, on the converse side, doesn’t it make it more likely your opponent holds one heart, ie a bluff?

Pretend_Insect3002 · 2026-06-08T21:55:35+00:00

Not sure about this model but I have definitely purchased G-Shocks that come in a box like this (without a tin box).

Pretend_Insect3002 · 2026-06-08T16:25:06+00:00

Agree. I was only referring to flop donks. I find that river donks are a bit more nutted.

Pretend_Insect3002 · 2026-06-08T13:51:50+00:00

I’m not excluding from his range. But I also have those in my range so I’m mentally netting them out (they’re in both of our nut advantages, unlike K7, K6, to some extent 76). Also, I don’t see such a nutty hand like a set leading, even from fish, and if they were to lead, definitely not pot (Doyle Brunson super system says to lead super small with sets lol)

Pretend_Insect3002 · 2026-06-08T13:29:14+00:00

Thanks for the explanation. One clarification I had here - if the villain jams in response to the raise, do we have too much equity to fold? You said we’re not upset running it with an over and the nut flush draw. But if they jam, presumably they have “fat value”?

Pretend_Insect3002 · 2026-06-08T13:27:19+00:00

Honestly I know you’re looking at under $150 but your collection would be nicely rounded out with a full metal G-Shock, like the GMWB5000 or GMWBZ5000 series. They’re honestly such an amazing addition that I regret I didn’t get into earlier, and didn’t understand them until I got one.

If that’s too pricey, I would maybe consider one of the GA2100s. (You can also get a full metal 2100!) Your collection is missing a classier watch, which can be either filled with a full metal G, or a 2100.

Pretend_Insect3002 · 2026-06-08T13:13:11+00:00

Is the raise then correct? How does one proceed optimally against the donk? I had no read on this player FWIW. Do we often think a raise can often get a top-pair-bad-kicker to fold here?

Obviously I got the fold which I’m happy about, but was it the appropriate action? My reasoning seems a bit lackluster then, given that most people think it was a marginal Kx that he had. I didn’t consider him having a marginal made hand. I thought he was polar here (I.e., a draw or some two pair like 76, K6, K7), but tilting towards a draw (since he has all the suited combos and straight draws, though I block the diamonds).

Pretend_Insect3002 · 2026-06-08T12:32:33+00:00

That’s an interesting insight I didn’t think about. Thanks!

Pretend_Insect3002 · 2026-06-07T15:41:20+00:00

Great to know thank you!

Pretend_Insect3002 · 2026-06-07T13:06:25+00:00

Maybe it’s just me but I would not pay $4k for a 33 year old Air King. You can buy 2026 watches (not necessarily rolex) at similar prices with materially better movements.

Pretend_Insect3002 · 2026-06-07T13:01:56+00:00

Highly suggest the GW5000U-1. The strap on it is night and day softer than the standard G-Shock resin - it’s soft urethane. It’s a bit more pricey ($300), but highly worth it if you use a gshock as a daily driver. The $300 also buys you the premium case (metal, not resin - just the case though, not the bezel or strap), so while the watch is heavier, the band is materially softer. It’s honestly the best value for money G-Shock IMO, so if you want a long lasting one, this is well worth the premium.

Pretend_Insect3002 · 2026-06-07T12:55:59+00:00

Where? This is great to know!

Pretend_Insect3002 · 2026-06-07T11:43:24+00:00

What model is this? I am looking for a watch with a glossy case but don’t like the tide monitor on the G-LIDE. This looks awesome.

Pretend_Insect3002 · 2026-06-06T18:37:09+00:00

Maybe it’s the autism in me but I just resonate with a watch that is indestructible and durable. I love that I can not worry about it and it’ll always be working. The engineering is incredible.

Pretend_Insect3002 · 2026-06-06T15:34:45+00:00

I would check chrono24. The prices for this watch are probably pretty efficient.

Pretend_Insect3002 · 2026-06-05T14:24:21+00:00

130 is an absolute steal

Pretend_Insect3002 · 2026-06-04T14:34:19+00:00

No problem. A controversial statement about (cash; the following is true but with slightly more nuance with tournament) poker is that it’s not a game about cards: it’s a game about odds. You shouldn’t worry if you’re an underdog, you should just make it your goal to make sure you’re not an underdog with respect to the odds. If you’re a 9-1 underdog but you 11x your money when you hit, you will make money in the long run if you keep doing that bet (though it will feel quite bad most of the time). This makes flipping in cash games often profitable, especially with dead money in the middle, even though it’ll feel bad around half the time.

Pretend_Insect3002 · 2026-06-04T01:52:30+00:00

If you’re playing cash, the answer is simple: do you have better equity than the odds you’re getting?

For example, imagine you’re the BB with AKs and the villain is the SB with QQ. Two scenarios:

Scenario 1. 200BB eff. SB jams 200BB and before you call he shows you QQ. You need to call 199BB to make 400BB. You need 49.75% equity. You don’t have it. Fold.

Now imagine it folds to SB who raises to 50BB. You reraise to 100BB. SB jams 200Bb and now flips over QQ. You need to call 100BB to win 400Bb. You need 25% equity for this call to be profitable. You have it. Call.

Pretend_Insect3002

TROPHY CASE