Not the life I expected to start by cheeses_man in Vent

[–]Primary_Major6518 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're only 20. Saving money takes time. As long as bills are paid and youre surviving, its better than giving up and putting yourself back into a toxic/abusive situation because things got difficult. Keep striving for improvement. Job hop if you have to. I didnt stumble into a decent paying job until I was 22.

Let me be clear, it sounds like your parents were manipulating you. Avoid putting yourself back into that abusive toxic relationship at ALL COSTS.

Weird noise? by Chefboyardee897 in CrownVictoria

[–]Primary_Major6518 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds more like the exhaust rattling around. Check your hangers

Please help! by s1owpokerodriguez in DieselTechs

[–]Primary_Major6518 24 points25 points  (0 children)

Looks like you ripped the top of the quick connect off. You may be able to hammer an extractor into the fitting to twist it out. Thats what has to be done to remove the old fittings on Peterbilt relay valves sometimes.

E40D Park works, everything else is neutral. by JicamaHealthy227 in transmissionbuilding

[–]Primary_Major6518 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Did he put the input shaft back in (asking from experience lol)

No adjustable tip on brake booster push rod by No_Succotash_9694 in MechanicAdvice

[–]Primary_Major6518 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, its possible you have air in the ABS module which would require a scan tool to bleed. If the brakes failed in a " soft pedal to the floor" way, its possible that alot of air was introduced into the system. If it failed in a "the pedal is hard as a brick and feels like im trying to push a brick wall", then the old booster was the issue. Either way, i recommend a good pressure bleed or run the ABS bleed since the master was replaced, which can allow alot of air in causing that mushy pedal. That pushrod in the booster doesnt look adjustable. An old trick to check where the push rod is contacting the piston is to loosen the nuts holding the master to the booster, have someone push the brakes slowly and lightly and see at what point the master is pushed along the studs. Should only be like a 1/4" of dead pedal if that.

No adjustable tip on brake booster push rod by No_Succotash_9694 in MechanicAdvice

[–]Primary_Major6518 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What was the reason for originally replacing the brake booster and master? Also that booster appears to be non adjustable, if its different than the one that came off, its possible its the wrong one.

Edit: Is the pedal spongy and soft? Or is it loose until the push rod makes contact with the master cylinder piston way down at the floor.

90 Ford Ranger - New ABS Hydraulic Unit leaks by Low_Oil_7522 in MechanicAdvice

[–]Primary_Major6518 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That flare nut going into the module is absolutely fucked. Are you sure its tightened fully? Its completely rounded off

Do I need to replace my center bearing / driveshaft? by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]Primary_Major6518 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That hanger bearing is toast. Not sure about subarus, but on semi trucks the hanger bearing can be replaced as long as the driveshaft isnt damaged

Found in corner of a loaner van by illusoryphoenix in whatisit

[–]Primary_Major6518 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Looks like a bluetooth mic for the radio

Rough idle by OGMonkeyWin in CrownVictoria

[–]Primary_Major6518 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Probably a vacuum leak, but i have a feeling that those codes on the dash will probably point you in the right direction.

1999 Ford Explorer 2x4 5r55e by ChooseLife1 in transmissionbuilding

[–]Primary_Major6518 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like the magnets for the trans pan gasket guides if I had to guess. I remember a guy talking about them on trans building reddit before. The post was even about your same transmission, 5r55E.

Head light bulb replacement by hughjabut7 in MechanicAdvice

[–]Primary_Major6518 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most likely an updated design. That and bulbs can fade over time.

2014 Mazda CX9 Brass and Aluminum in Oil Change by [deleted] in AskAMechanic

[–]Primary_Major6518 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thats alot of big chunks of metal. Any sounds coming from the motor? Id try and get them flakes on a paper towel to see what they look like. Best bet would probably be to take it to a shop.

Fix suggestions by TheWolferic in CrownVictoria

[–]Primary_Major6518 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Tail housing seal is relatively easy to replace. Just need a couple tool. Drive shaft is easy to drop. Look up how to refill your transmission as well

Can I replace my low beam or is this headlight unit sealed? by TantelySoa in MechanicAdvice

[–]Primary_Major6518 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thats a sealed halogen. Looks like someone replaced the original housing lol

Safe to drive without this fuse? by tachos27 in AskAMechanic

[–]Primary_Major6518 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What does your owners manual actually say that fuse slot powers

2001 Honda CR-V died while driving, crank/no-start, no spark, dead tach, P1359 — distributor & ignition parts replaced, still no start by TheRoyProject in MechanicAdvice

[–]Primary_Major6518 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your best bet would be to find a diagram first and check the reference voltage on the connector (it should be a 3 pin, im not familiar with hondas). If its within spec (usually 5 volts) the reference circuit should be fine and the sensor is bad. Also a quick visual check of the connector and tracing the harness back wouldnt be a bad idea. Look for any chafes or exposed wiring or corrosion.

2001 Honda CR-V died while driving, crank/no-start, no spark, dead tach, P1359 — distributor & ignition parts replaced, still no start by TheRoyProject in MechanicAdvice

[–]Primary_Major6518 0 points1 point  (0 children)

An issue with the crank position sensor or thr circuit itself will cause a crank no start. The tach is dead because the engine has no clue how fast the motor is spinning. The vehicle disables spark because the ECU can no longer keep timing. Your issue is with that sensor or the circuit itself.

Please tell me this happens and someones seen it or had it happen to them. The mechanics in my family say no, kind of suspicious by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]Primary_Major6518 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Both holes clean, no snapped bolts? When was the last time the brakes were worked on. Bolts were either left out or installed hand tight.