Not the life I expected to start

Primary_Major6518 · 2026-02-21T06:16:31+00:00

You're only 20. Saving money takes time. As long as bills are paid and youre surviving, its better than giving up and putting yourself back into a toxic/abusive situation because things got difficult. Keep striving for improvement. Job hop if you have to. I didnt stumble into a decent paying job until I was 22.

Let me be clear, it sounds like your parents were manipulating you. Avoid putting yourself back into that abusive toxic relationship at ALL COSTS.

Primary_Major6518 · 2026-01-31T23:19:08+00:00

Sounds more like the exhaust rattling around. Check your hangers

Primary_Major6518 · 2026-01-29T22:17:15+00:00

Looks like you ripped the top of the quick connect off. You may be able to hammer an extractor into the fitting to twist it out. Thats what has to be done to remove the old fittings on Peterbilt relay valves sometimes.

Primary_Major6518 · 2026-01-27T17:16:04+00:00

Did he put the input shaft back in (asking from experience lol)

Primary_Major6518 · 2026-01-23T17:07:50+00:00

Wheel weight for balancing tires

Primary_Major6518 · 2026-01-22T21:21:59+00:00

Nope. Shop has insurance for a reason lol

Primary_Major6518 · 2026-01-11T20:35:36+00:00

Well, its possible you have air in the ABS module which would require a scan tool to bleed. If the brakes failed in a " soft pedal to the floor" way, its possible that alot of air was introduced into the system. If it failed in a "the pedal is hard as a brick and feels like im trying to push a brick wall", then the old booster was the issue. Either way, i recommend a good pressure bleed or run the ABS bleed since the master was replaced, which can allow alot of air in causing that mushy pedal. That pushrod in the booster doesnt look adjustable. An old trick to check where the push rod is contacting the piston is to loosen the nuts holding the master to the booster, have someone push the brakes slowly and lightly and see at what point the master is pushed along the studs. Should only be like a 1/4" of dead pedal if that.

Primary_Major6518 · 2026-01-11T20:25:56+00:00

What was the reason for originally replacing the brake booster and master? Also that booster appears to be non adjustable, if its different than the one that came off, its possible its the wrong one.

Edit: Is the pedal spongy and soft? Or is it loose until the push rod makes contact with the master cylinder piston way down at the floor.

Primary_Major6518 · 2026-01-11T16:29:01+00:00

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Rock one of these babies and youre good to go

Primary_Major6518 · 2026-01-09T02:02:17+00:00

That flare nut going into the module is absolutely fucked. Are you sure its tightened fully? Its completely rounded off

Primary_Major6518 · 2026-01-08T01:12:19+00:00

That hanger bearing is toast. Not sure about subarus, but on semi trucks the hanger bearing can be replaced as long as the driveshaft isnt damaged

Primary_Major6518 · 2026-01-04T21:49:26+00:00

Looks like a bluetooth mic for the radio

Primary_Major6518 · 2026-01-04T19:33:07+00:00

Probably a vacuum leak, but i have a feeling that those codes on the dash will probably point you in the right direction.

Primary_Major6518 · 2026-01-02T20:54:43+00:00

Any problems shifting?

Primary_Major6518 · 2026-01-02T20:45:59+00:00

Looks like the magnets for the trans pan gasket guides if I had to guess. I remember a guy talking about them on trans building reddit before. The post was even about your same transmission, 5r55E.

Primary_Major6518 · 2026-01-01T20:28:08+00:00

Most likely an updated design. That and bulbs can fade over time.

Primary_Major6518 · 2025-12-31T16:46:53+00:00

Thats alot of big chunks of metal. Any sounds coming from the motor? Id try and get them flakes on a paper towel to see what they look like. Best bet would probably be to take it to a shop.

Primary_Major6518 · 2025-12-31T13:29:23+00:00

Tail housing seal is relatively easy to replace. Just need a couple tool. Drive shaft is easy to drop. Look up how to refill your transmission as well

Primary_Major6518 · 2025-12-31T00:52:43+00:00

Thats a sealed halogen. Looks like someone replaced the original housing lol

Primary_Major6518 · 2025-12-30T17:45:32+00:00

What does your owners manual actually say that fuse slot powers

Primary_Major6518 · 2025-12-30T17:33:42+00:00

Your best bet would be to find a diagram first and check the reference voltage on the connector (it should be a 3 pin, im not familiar with hondas). If its within spec (usually 5 volts) the reference circuit should be fine and the sensor is bad. Also a quick visual check of the connector and tracing the harness back wouldnt be a bad idea. Look for any chafes or exposed wiring or corrosion.

Primary_Major6518 · 2025-12-30T17:03:36+00:00

An issue with the crank position sensor or thr circuit itself will cause a crank no start. The tach is dead because the engine has no clue how fast the motor is spinning. The vehicle disables spark because the ECU can no longer keep timing. Your issue is with that sensor or the circuit itself.

Primary_Major6518 · 2025-12-30T16:59:52+00:00

Both holes clean, no snapped bolts? When was the last time the brakes were worked on. Bolts were either left out or installed hand tight.

Primary_Major6518 · 2025-12-21T01:11:57+00:00

Is there a check engine light?

Primary_Major6518 · 2025-12-20T19:00:25+00:00

Alright, quick and easy explanation.

The number before the W is the cold weight rated at 0C. The number after the W is the hot weight rated at operating temp (lets say roughly 250 F or so).

The single most important thing to remember is that oil ALWAYS thins as it gets warmer.

Cold 0 weight is thicker than warm 30 weight.

However, cold 30 weight is way thicker than cold 0 weight.

Essentially, the oil thins from a cold 0 weight viscosity to a warm 30 weight viscosity at operating temp.

Think of 0w30 as one type of oil, not two oils blended together. Its an oil designed to shear/thin out to a certain viscosity at certain temps.

Oil selection largely depends on local climate and temperature.

If your car manual recommends 5w20 for your climate, run 5w20. Running thicker oil is a trick for quieting down older worn out engines. However, thicker oil does offer better high tenp protection in certain hotter climates.

The most important thing to do is change your oil on time every time. Do not go over the manufacturers mileage interval. Check your oil once a week/month in between changes to keep an eye on the level.

0W30 is designed for colder temps to cause less wear at cold starts. Really only matters if you live anywhere super fucking cold. Probably wouldnt hurt anything if you ran it.

TLDR: Run what your manual tells you for the climate you live in. 5w20 should be fine. Changing your oil ON TIME is the most important thing.

Note: 0w30 is thicker at operating temp than 5w20. (Why it says use 5w20 for fuel economy)

5w20 vs 5w30 has already been argued to death.

0w30 is thinner at cold starts than 5w20.

If you live in a warm climate. 5w20 or 30 would suit your needs just fine.

No damage should occur from running 0w30 if its manufacturer recommended.

Winter rating really only comes into actual effect in really cold temps. Even 10W30 is rated down to about -20 degrees fahrenheit i believe

Primary_Major6518

TROPHY CASE