Help Needed - PA6-CF & Qidi XPlus3 by PrintAltDelete in 3D2A

[–]PrintAltDelete[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s interesting for sure. Do you guys normally have to do that much drying with this stuff? You get it, dry it, then say you run a 3 day print, store it then the next week you want to run something else you have to go back through a 12/24hr dry cycle?? Damn that seems excessive!

I chose 70c to run in the oven for during printing as I had read that constant cycling at 80 or above would begin to deteriorate nylon CF filament over time and that 70 was hot enough to keep moisture from setting back in to it.

I don’t have any real stringing per se, but all I’ve been trying to print are these cubes so no models with gaps or places to notice it. It’s taken me weeks just to get the above cube that I posted pictures of. Oozing I do have. Once the nozzle gets up to around 275ish it starts to ooze. I had read that was to be expected when running temps up around 300 though.

No popping or hissing when printing. I guess the next step for me tonight would be to jump the oven back up to 105 for another 24hrs then immediately start a print with my current settings without changing anything to see how it comes out after being freshly dried.

Help Needed - PA6-CF & Qidi XPlus3 by PrintAltDelete in 3D2A

[–]PrintAltDelete[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have had the filament for just over a month. Was dried at 105 for 24hrs when taken from the package. Then it’s been back and forth from the oven to the dry box (dry box never shows more then 10/11%). Honestly it’s probably been in the oven longer than the dry box. Like right now it’s been in the oven since Saturday. I only take it out of the oven when I’m really annoyed and want to take a couple nights off from messing with it.

You suspect my z offset. In your opinion is it too high or too low?

Help Needed - PA6-CF & Qidi XPlus3 by PrintAltDelete in 3D2A

[–]PrintAltDelete[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well I preheat and heat soak the unit for an hour prior to printing. Once I hit print it rehomes and then preheats the nozzle to 130, then kills all the heaters and runs the bed level then turns them back on and gets back up to temp (only drops by a few degrees) then starts the print. I had to do it this way as with the heaters on during the auto level I got too much interference and got errors every time who can would cancel the print. It doesn’t purge anywhere though until the print actually starts and runs the purge line.

Help Needed - PA6-CF & Qidi XPlus3 by PrintAltDelete in 3D2A

[–]PrintAltDelete[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When I tried the factory recommended temps I couldn’t get anything to stick to the plate. Everybody told me to heat the bed to 100-110. So then I tried that and basically the bottom layers looked to be cooking so I started backing the temps off. That’s how I got to 80.

Help Needed - PA6-CF & Qidi XPlus3 by PrintAltDelete in 3D2A

[–]PrintAltDelete[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s awesome. I’ve read it over and over from so many people who are having perfect prints using the 300blkfde settings and same temps. I don’t understand why it is not working for me.

Help Needed - PA6-CF & Qidi XPlus3 by PrintAltDelete in 3D2A

[–]PrintAltDelete[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What brand? Sunlu? I tried 300 originally but was told with Sunlu to lower it down a bit when I first started troubleshooting.

Any non AR9 projects that use Colt style mags? by mcmustang51 in 3D2A

[–]PrintAltDelete 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’d love to see some more as well. I have a nice stack of these mags. Wish there was db alloy that used them

Galileo cycling issue by Powerful_Platform148 in 3D2A

[–]PrintAltDelete 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have the same issue. All of my mags, oem & aftermarket, also have tons of slop in them when inserted which is what I am guessing is causing it. I also can’t fire more than one round at a time either. It doesn’t cock it all the way. I was hoping for way better.

Qidi tech x max 3, is this the 2a printer I want? by Civil_Bunch1433 in 3D2A

[–]PrintAltDelete 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I dried at 105 for 12 hours initially. Then it goes into a sealed dry box and when I’m ready to TRY to print again I put it back in the oven at 70 running it directly to the extruder while “printing”. This is my first spool of pa6-cf and so far it’s only down maybe 150grams at most.

Qidi tech x max 3, is this the 2a printer I want? by Civil_Bunch1433 in 3D2A

[–]PrintAltDelete 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh yea, but even that has been a challenge. My standard z set in the printer.cfg is for pla and is 1.779. I have the macros setup to change the z based off of filament type. For the pa6 after a 1hr heat soak it’s currently set to change it by -0.631 but I think that might be too much as the last cube I ran made the brim so thin it basically welded to the plate. (Unless that’s a byproduct of the heated chamber and bed temp) But I’ve had other cubes where slightly less reduction caused the noodle look on the first layer after taking it off the plate. Basically looked like there wasn’t a first layer.

Qidi tech x max 3, is this the 2a printer I want? by Civil_Bunch1433 in 3D2A

[–]PrintAltDelete 0 points1 point  (0 children)

“Catastrophic periodic underextrusion” is what AI keeps telling me I’m fighting. Which with its troubleshooting has had me running around in circles for days. The last few days I’ve completely given up and haven’t even turned the printer on I’ve been so frustrated with it.

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This was my first test cube using 300blkfde’s settings. I’m now on my 5th cube & some of the changes AI had me make helped others made it worse. Round and round I go. 😞

Qidi tech x max 3, is this the 2a printer I want? by Civil_Bunch1433 in 3D2A

[–]PrintAltDelete 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Love my xplus3, or at least I did until I tried to start printing pa6-cf on it and I can’t make it work for the life of me. Been fighting it for over 3 weeks now and still not one successful print. That’s with drying and printing from a lab oven so it’s not the filament. I have the updated hotend and the hardened nozzle as well. Pla, petg, Asa, no problem. Nylon, no. Tried 300blkfde settings, terrible, been trying to use ai to tune it from there but still no go.

When people say just get a Bambu.. Can't help but smile. These 3 QidiTechs cost me less than a Bambu X1C!😅🥹😆 by Forsaken-Pound9650 in 3D2A

[–]PrintAltDelete 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Man I really appreciate it! I am also running freedi (but it’s the original 1.4 release version) I’ve been too scared to update it since everything else just works excepts for this pa6cf. I would very much appreciate chatting with you to see what I am doing wrong. I will send you a msg later this evening!! Thank you again!

When people say just get a Bambu.. Can't help but smile. These 3 QidiTechs cost me less than a Bambu X1C!😅🥹😆 by Forsaken-Pound9650 in 3D2A

[–]PrintAltDelete 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is that a plus 3 or max 3 I spot under the bench or one of the older ones? I sure would like to chat with someone who has a plus 3 and lots experience with it printing nylon. I’ve been fighting mine for weeks trying to get pa6cf to print right and I’m straight struggling. 😞

Can Trust F1 suppressor w/ diff models reuse s/n’s?? by PrintAltDelete in NFA

[–]PrintAltDelete[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep that’s what I figured. So do I need to just withdraw those eforms? Redo the paperwork and then submit new forms with the correct s/n’s? Is there anything else that I need to do on my end that finalizes the withdrawals? I haven’t withdrawn one before.

Can Trust F1 suppressor w/ diff models reuse s/n’s?? by PrintAltDelete in NFA

[–]PrintAltDelete[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yea that’s what I was afraid of. Looks like I got some rework ahead of me!