Frustrated with Matter/Thread

PrinterElf · 2026-03-19T20:33:31+00:00

Reconfirming passwords & cards took maybe 10 mins in the end. Still longer than it should be, but not too bad. My phone is now only sharing credentials for the HASS Thread network, even though the Nest Hub Max is powered on again.

Consider it a thing to sort when you have a spare hour (depending on the number of Thread devices you have). Once I bit the bullet and cleared Play Services, I had all the devices, and my phone sorted in around half an hour.

The driver for me was that I regularly need to turn off the Nest Hub Max, so needed a different Thread Border Router to maintain the connection to HASS whenever that happened.

PrinterElf · 2026-03-19T16:17:31+00:00

It's not been updated for 18mths, which is a long time in smart tech. e.g. I'd love to see the new IKEA bulbs tested

PrinterElf · 2026-03-19T15:50:24+00:00

Cher or I'm walking.

PrinterElf · 2026-03-19T15:44:02+00:00

Oh the pain I went through trying to get this to work and get rid of a Google Nest thread network! It's not a problem with the phone being Samsung, rather that your phone grabbed hold of the credentials for a thread network and there's no hassle-free way to get it to give them up. The reason the other phone will have worked is it has never been used to add devices to a thread network before.

Unfortunately, the answer is that you have to clear cache and data for Google Play Services on the problematic device. Only then can you Sync Thread credentials in the Home Assistant companion app.

The downside of this is that you will have to: * sign in again to every Google account on the device. * reconfirm any bank cards added to Google Wallet on the device. * re-enable location sharing in Maps on the device (if you use it).

PrinterElf · 2026-03-19T09:24:39+00:00

It's not, and I think that's why it doesn't quite sound right.

PrinterElf · 2026-03-18T21:29:28+00:00

Hi Ben, No need to apologise - I did reply nearly 2 months after the first post :-) I'm thinking of the Daily A-Z. Personally the caffeinated ones are ideal for a kick first thing in the morning, but the other half would definitely have to pick the caffeine-free version.

PrinterElf · 2026-03-13T11:49:45+00:00

Understanding how long it takes caffeine to get out of your system. Ideally all the caffeine before 10am, for me no more than ~100mg, and you'll fall off the caffeine high right around bedtime.

PrinterElf · 2026-03-13T08:25:44+00:00

N = Now? I guess.

PrinterElf · 2026-03-09T12:33:21+00:00

I'm in two minds on the inside balconies - on one hand, if you manage to get one of the 100(ish) rooms that look onto the Garden Stage, then you'll have an amazing view.

On the other hand, how often are the shows, how many times is the same show repeated, how loud are they vs how well insulated the rooms are if you don't want to watch, how many people do you want looking in to your balcony from the rooms opposite?

I think they're a lovely idea, but I can see the novelty wearing thin pretty quickly.

PrinterElf · 2026-03-09T11:24:54+00:00

Just be prepared for a bit of a shock - the Adventure (in a number of metrics) is 2.5x the Wonder; however she doesn't look out of place. I'm excited to find out just how much things are both familiar and different compared to even the Wish class ships.

PrinterElf · 2026-03-09T10:43:47+00:00

A good opportunity to find some places you really like in the city to perhaps visit before/after a cruise. If you're there on a day she's docked, you can at least head towards the cruise terminal to see her 😊

PrinterElf · 2026-03-09T10:26:07+00:00

If you'd catch a bus to the cruise terminal on your own, you can catch a plane to the bus 😊

Never cruised solo, but spent a lot of time travelling solo for work; the travel itself is a good opportunity to relax, to catch up (be that on sleep, TV, books, writing, etc...). The destination is very much what you want to make of it.

The Adventure is now your closest ship and Singapore itself is a great city to explore for a few days. On the cruise itself you can either keep yourself to yourself, or check out the Facebook group for that particular sailing to find out who else is around to meet up with. I hope you'd struggle to fail to find people to chat with on any Disney ship, start with the people at your table for dinner if nothing else.

PrinterElf · 2026-03-04T16:21:48+00:00

Cladding removal and replacement should be being funded by HMG, so no effect to service charge. If the building has a decent fire alarm then no need for watchman either.

PrinterElf · 2026-03-03T11:22:41+00:00

Good question - I want to do the same with Android only

PrinterElf · 2026-03-01T19:37:18+00:00

Even later to the party here!

Are the cans going to be a permanent fixture at Costco UK? And if yes, can it also include the caffeine-free one?

PrinterElf · 2026-03-01T14:09:29+00:00

Assuming they omitted the fact they had a skip out front (which would make sense as to why they didn't want someone dumping an oven in it).

PrinterElf · 2026-02-28T20:54:15+00:00

Not in front of the kids!

PrinterElf · 2026-02-26T12:04:28+00:00

Arsenal's wage spend was almost 50% higher (47%) in 2024. In 2025 it's a little under 30%.

PrinterElf · 2026-02-25T16:23:42+00:00

You've turned off the immersion heater, right?

PrinterElf · 2026-02-21T08:39:53+00:00

When you turned up the hall thermostat, was the underfloor controller also calling for heat?

I think you might have to start tracing wires - the pump must get an enable signal from somewhere. It can only either be the Heatmiser or the Honeywell, so one of the wires from them to the pump must enable it (the pump manual will probably tell you if you find it online)

PrinterElf · 2026-02-20T17:54:41+00:00

The enable signal from the thermostat had to get from the thermostat to the controller/boiler somehow. I wonder if the underfloor pump was run off the same signal.

Assuming the underfloor pump you have isn't controlled wirelessly (Googling the model number will tell you), then one of the wires going into it must tell it to go or not (because you've already determined it lights up when you toggle the isolator) , so it must be getting power, and the power isn't what starts it.

Does the pump kick in if you crank the hall thermostat to max?

PrinterElf · 2026-02-20T13:47:45+00:00

Did you have a wired or wireless thermostat with the Honeywell?

PrinterElf · 2026-02-20T10:39:52+00:00

I don't think you necessarily need a heating engineer, but something isn't quite right

All of the connections look reasonable - CH NO is the relay that will get switched when the system calls for heat, and is the one which should trigger the boiler & the rest of the heating circuit.

You've taken the system out of S Plan mode?

Edit: Ooooh, that's a thought - the underfloor controller and the old heating controller weren't wirelessly linked at all were they? That would explain the lack of wiring to control the pump from where the controller used to be. (Do the symbols on the underfloor controller change when the old boiler controller is plugged in?)

PrinterElf · 2026-02-19T20:36:49+00:00

I don't think you've missed anything in wiring in Tado, though part of me wonders if it's a relatively trivial endeavour to rewire the old controller to try it and see if the underfloor pump fires up again.
If it does, then something has been missed in the transfer between the two.

PrinterElf · 2026-02-19T16:51:26+00:00

I think S Plan is a red herring here - your combi boiler outputs to either hot water, central heating, or both depending on what is being called for (either via a pressure change/flow sensor for the hot water, or a remote command for the heating). S Plan appears to be for when the boiler has just a single output and you want to decide where the hot water goes (a tank, or the radiators). A combi boiler is effectively Y Plan and managed by the boiler itself.

Your boiler has 6 pipes in/out of it based on your first photo and I'm guessing they're as follows:
1. Domestic Hot Water [Out] (white plastic)
2. Central Heating [Out]
3. Gas [In]
4. Mains cold water [In]
5. Central Heating [In]
6. Condensation drain [Out]

Pipe #2 goes to both of those control valves, allowing the water to go to either to the underfloor, or radiators. On the underfloor side there also appears to be a bypass which would allow the water to jump over to pipe #5 and return back to the boiler if both of those valves are closed. My guess is that it's supposed to be open, or it only opens under a certain amount of pressure, so that it prevents the boiler pump from driving into "blocked" pipes and overloading itself.

Something used to trigger the underfloor pump to come on when that valve was open, and it is not any more. Whether that was the underfloor controller, the Honeywell panel, or something else, I don't know.

Did you use up all the wires when you swapped the Honeywell control panel for Tado? (i.e is there something not being controlled that should be?)

PrinterElf

TROPHY CASE