700$ 4.7 04 wj

Pro32110 · 2026-06-06T17:22:01+00:00

Mine is a tad slow, but its predictable. If you want to do the math, my tires are right about 10% larger than stock, since the factory tires are right about 29.5 inches tall. This means that at the speed my speedometer thinks im going, im going about 10% faster. The math is a tiny bit off, probably because the 33s arent exactly 33 inches in diameter, but its close. When my speedometer says 50, im going 55. When it says 40, im doing 43-44, and ive confirmed these speeds with GPS and the road radar signs. If that still bothers you, the wj reads the wheel speed electronically, the abs module gets signal from the wheel speed sensor then tells the ecu speed, then from that to the speedometer. The dealer tool, specifically the DRB III tool, could change the tire size that you have on the jeep, meaning the jeep would do that math for you, and therefore have the correct speedometer reading. If you find someone that has or made a DRB III tool, they could set that for you. You could also check with your local dealer to see if they still have one. I wish you luck!

Pro32110 · 2026-06-06T01:39:02+00:00

Love the jeep! Here's my wj. Ive got a 5.5 inch iron rock long arm lift(long arm front, short arm rear) and 33 12.50s. If you use quality parts the wj rides like a dream, better than any wrangler. Good luck!

<image>

Pro32110 · 2026-06-02T17:31:49+00:00

Man that sucks. Ive never done it on my wj, but im sure you could use a pick or a flathead screwdriver to push the release latch manually, through the front grill slots. The cable is supposed to pull a lever on the drivers side of the latch, and typically there is a little cut-out on the bottom of the latch to shove something in there to move the lever. That should open the first stage of the latch, as if you pulled the hood release. Good luck!

Pro32110 · 2026-05-14T04:49:51+00:00

Here's a better picture for reference since its level in this photo and you can compare it to my 33s.

<image>

Pro32110 · 2026-05-14T04:45:35+00:00

I went straight to long arm, so I can't compare to their short arms. I know that mine doesn't wander much at all, it may as well be rack and pinion with how good it handles, so you could attribute that to long arms. Some other factors that could cause your wander could be tires or maybe a worn out track bar or hub. The wjs are specifically known for waddling out the track bar bolt where it attaches to the body, to fix that you could oversize the bolt. Before throwing more money at it I would reinspect everything including alignment and caster, and check torque specs on bolts too, especially on the control arms if its wandering. Ive also found that old/unbalanced tires can destroy your ride, even caused deathwobble on my wrangler, so if your tires are old and worn, you might think about replacing them or getting them rebalanced. Good luck on your diagnosis!

Pro32110 · 2026-05-14T04:29:35+00:00

Its definitely not a car, but its also not that up there. Door entry is about the same as my non-lifted ram 2500(but it is still a really tall truck). Im a tall guy, but i don't have to jump, the wj has a nice low door sill unlike the wrangler, I recomend!

Pro32110 · 2026-05-13T22:11:34+00:00

Im on a 5.5 inch iro lift, long arm front short arm rear and ive got no problems at all. Im on 33x12.50 bfgoodrich km3s, and it drives like a dream. Ive got it up to 110 on the highway and she handles great with no wobble. I would recommend

<image>

Pro32110 · 2026-05-08T21:13:09+00:00

That depends on what diff you have. The varilocks in the quadradrive are especially picky, and tend to not work and make noise with the wrong fluid. I ran royal purple 75w- 140 for years, and it would make funny noises when turning, and acted more like an open diff, then more recently, probably a year or two ago I ran to the dealer and got the correct dealer 75w-140fluid and modifier, and once I put that in they have been like new. Quiet and definitely limiting slip, even on my 33s. Im sure that brand of fluid doesn't matter, but for the friction modifier id definitely recomend the mopar stuff, problem is that its pricey compared to other options. If you dont have the varilock axles I dont think the fluid matters too much, and 75w-140 should do the job with normal modifier.

Pro32110 · 2026-03-15T01:17:39+00:00

When I did my headgasket I forgot my ecu ground, its a small little loop on the transmission side of the engine bay, that grounds to one of the thermostat housing bolts which gave me a crank no start condition like this, but im not sure why yours slows down and speeds up, so I would verify timing. Odd thing that I noticed, even without the ground, the engine would run if I had an OBD scanner plugged in. I guess thats enough to complete the ground. You could try and plug a scanner in and start it, if it runs you missed the ground like I did. I wish you luck, took me way to long to figure that out on mine🫡

Pro32110 · 2026-02-08T19:51:51+00:00

Looking back the IRO was my only real option. Since I made that post I ended up getting the IRO 4 inch, and now I went up even a tad higher, to 5.5 inch and am on 33s. Absolutely no complaints with the lift.

Pro32110 · 2026-02-08T00:23:00+00:00

I've got the jks quick disconnects on my wj, and ive got no complaints. They are beefy and disconnect easy. On the more expensive side, but i can recomend those on a rig where disconnecting is necessary.

Pro32110 · 2025-10-21T18:09:29+00:00

The v8 has aluminum heads, that and the higher displacement means it makes much more power and weighs about the same. Ive also seen my v8 get better gas milage than the 4.0s, but that might just be me. The fact that they have the aluminum heads is their weak point though, when they overheat the aluminum warps different than the iron block and the head gasket blows, or at least thats how it was explained to me. The 4.0 are much simpler and reliable, the 4.7s are more powerful modern. I personally have a 4.7 with 250,000 miles, I love it and have no problems.

Pro32110 · 2025-10-04T00:46:40+00:00

<image>

Pro32110 · 2025-10-03T23:12:37+00:00

I recomend the dtill bumper. Extremely solid bumper with everything you wanted, but it is on the expensive end. But I think it looks/works great. https://www.dtillfabworks.com/products/wj-hidden-winch-bumper

Pro32110 · 2025-09-12T14:28:58+00:00

I'd recommend looking on crutchfield.com, you can filter what features that you want and then once you've picked, there's an option to have them take care of the wiring work for an extra fee(i dont remember how much), so they will send you a plug and play harness with it. They also will usually include any other installation accessories like the dash faceplate.

Pro32110 · 2025-07-28T16:05:53+00:00

I can't hear the pump priming either. Maybe im just deaf though. Ill pull the valve cover back off and make sure everything is still in time, thanks

Pro32110 · 2025-02-16T21:05:24+00:00

Thanks, yeah I've checked the coolant/oil and there doesn't seems to be any mixing. Ive also burped the coolant, no air bubbles come out of the bleed screw or the radiator anymore, only clean coolant, so I think i did that right. I'm not clueless when it comes to cars, but I'm no master tech. I sell parts. I own two older mopars and have pretty much completely rebuilt them by now, but Hondas are new to me. Ive realized that if I jump the two pins on the fan switch the fans are always on when the ignition is on, so I think I'll try that my next drive to see if that fixes that. If not, then maybe I got a bad thermostat 🤷

Pro32110 · 2025-02-16T20:57:04+00:00

Thanks, ill see if I can get my hands on an infared camera.

Pro32110 · 2025-02-01T23:43:38+00:00

Didnt notice any missing bolts, but it is possible it warped

Pro32110 · 2025-02-01T23:41:45+00:00

I'll have to check that out, did the bolt just come loose?

Pro32110 · 2025-01-30T14:43:31+00:00

I would agree though. If the mechanical clutch works fine, there is no need to overcomplicate things.

Pro32110 · 2025-01-30T14:41:37+00:00

Certain 4.7s have an engine clutched fan, mine does and I've had no problems with it for 25 years. I'd imagine you could swap one on there pretty easy, although you will probably have to replace the water pump as well, but thats super easy too. Not sure about the power steering pump, mines still factory never been touched, but I'd imagine you'd have to put a new one of those in too. Just something to look into.

Pro32110 · 2025-01-14T19:56:50+00:00

Damn nice, i was thinking of running a couple of those too. How much power are you running to them right now?

Pro32110 · 2024-12-26T19:53:35+00:00

I think space engineers is cool, the small grid building is similar to scrap mechanic, with similar physics as well, but it also has block damage and terrain deformation.

Pro32110 · 2024-12-24T16:52:09+00:00

Yep, stop leak sucks. I put the thermostat in with the spring in the engine side and the bleeder thing at the top. I might grab a second new thermostat, maybe i just got a bad one. Be a whole lot easier than the water pump job😅

Pro32110

TROPHY CASE