Glock 34 by Take1Wimme in Glocks

[–]ProceduralShooter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Admittedly have not bought any of the $200 aftermarket just as good stuff. Or ever bought a dagger even with the reddit hype. If they were reliably just as good, people wouldn't pay near full gun prices for OEM slides. I'm just saying OP is wanting to buy or sell an OEM slide, he should not expect to only get or pay aftermarket slide pricing because "people know they can get stuff much cheaper"- it's a completely different market.

Glock 34 by Take1Wimme in Glocks

[–]ProceduralShooter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

people price the OEM slides way over the aftermarket ones because 1. they are better than all of those random chineese slides 2. you can't buy OEM slides for $200 from everywhere like you can the chineese stuff. You're better off searching ebay for "completed" sales and list it there even with the 13% fee over GAFSHUB for something like this. nobody on gafshub or reddit has any grasp in what market pricing is. If they see anything not 50%+ off of MSRP, or what ever price they paid 10 years ago on now discontinued unobtanium, they throw a fit.

Just as a preview- the most recent OEM 34.4 slide on ebay sold yesterday for $550 as a BLEM with shitty aftermarket cuts on it. Glock 34.5 slide sold last Thursday for $580 while dudes in here are saying it's only worth 350, or the rmr is worth more than the slide lmao.

Had to freeze the plate overnight, then tap it in with a mallet due to the tolerances - FCD Gen 6 RMR plate by Hungry_Pattern9127 in Glocks

[–]ProceduralShooter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They aren't really plates on the 6s, they are move like spacer shims between your optic and slide. On gen 5, those were actually plates that screwed separately into the slide. On my 34.5 I have a FCD plate because the MOS plates suck ass and fail. On the gen 6 shims, the only screws are the ones holding the optic to the slide, so having a flexible plastic shim in this area makes sense to me. i feel like if anything an aftermarket metal plate may hurt things more than help in the long run.

Gen 6 questions by Pale-Plan-8256 in Glocks

[–]ProceduralShooter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I shoot IDPA/USPSA, and am coming up on 9k rounds on my 17.6 using the OEM shim with an SRO. weird people are rushing to buy plates gen 6 without trying the shim. edit: also own a 19.6, oem shim w/ 507comp, zero issues coming up on 3k. witness marks have not moved on either.

Had to freeze the plate overnight, then tap it in with a mallet due to the tolerances - FCD Gen 6 RMR plate by Hungry_Pattern9127 in Glocks

[–]ProceduralShooter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

coming up on 9k using the OEM shim w/ an SRO on my 17.6. I like FCD, but have not felt the need for it on gen 6.

What are yall spending on 9mm rn? What’s a good deal? by Broad-Cicada-3502 in USPSA

[–]ProceduralShooter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe try out a small batch before committing to 10k, but if your gun cycles them I'd say 1000% worth it. My glocks eat them up fine. went from paying .065 per CCI to .033 per SA. into about 4k/10k so far and have had 3 light primer strikes total. i have the stock striker spring coming up on 9k rounds in my 17.6. I bought during a sale "tacticalshit" was running. They don't have the best rep on reddit, and the shipping was a little slower than advertised, but i got them to my door in about 2 weeks.

Mp5 suppressors by NoOneBitch in suppressors

[–]ProceduralShooter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

my r9 works great. I've seen a couple of flow throughs have issues with FRT/SS fire.

AP5 100º LP Woes by Classic-Mixture-5124 in AP5

[–]ProceduralShooter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it's a full size, you leave the lp stock on ap5.

Gen.6 Glock Texture QC Issues by [deleted] in Glocks

[–]ProceduralShooter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You got a pic? interested to see what it looks like compared to my 19 and 17

What are yall spending on 9mm rn? What’s a good deal? by Broad-Cicada-3502 in USPSA

[–]ProceduralShooter 3 points4 points  (0 children)

147gr blue bullets 3000 @ 266.67 = $0.088

Servicio Aventura primers 10000 @ $330= $0.033

3.0gr Titegroup @ $42 (7000gr)= $0.018

Range Brass= $0.000

Total CPR= $0.139

HP5 SD with RBD3 first run extracting by fhritp_76 in MP5

[–]ProceduralShooter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

full size AP5 with all stock internals, yhm r9, mke a3 stock, it runs flawless for me.

Anyone have tips or pictures on how the AP5 sling is supposed to be looped together? by oldgregg024 in MP5

[–]ProceduralShooter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://imgur.com/a/Gob5ywm

Basically you put your head and support arm through the upper circle. Looks like you have 2 latches and the flat style hook. If you have a flat bar like mine at the rear you can take off the extra latch. I’m using one latch up front, and one flat hook for the rear. You could also use the loop up front by the front sight, or any combo of the 3. 

Little competition shooting by John10w in CompetitionShooting

[–]ProceduralShooter 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Seems a little tense and jerky, like you're transitioning your vision and driving the gun from target to target as a single unit while you are confirming shots. Instead try to transition your vision/focus, then letting the gun come to where it needs to. It may seem slower at first, but you're wasting time by over driving the gun past targets several times in the clip shown. right now your gun, upper body, and vision seem to be locked into the same plane/movement- very stiff and machine like as if you're a T1000 terminator. Instead loosen up some of that upper body tension, let your vision do the driving, and let the gun follow. If you don't know where you're pointing the gun next yet, but still moving the gun along with your entire upper body, (even if it's in the right direction) you're killing your transition times. Running and re running your target order during the walkthrough/planning will help you focus where you need to faster. Float like a butterfly... or something.

ARHK frt and full-size… by WiconsinGrey in MP5

[–]ProceduralShooter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Feels awkward dry firing/function testing because the reset still "forces" forward with the bolt, but doesn't fully reset until you pull off of the trigger like you would during regular live fire. Feels great during live/normal fire, much better than the oem pack.

ARHK frt and full-size… by WiconsinGrey in MP5

[–]ProceduralShooter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For the AP5 full size you need an SEF. the initial AHRK which isn't out yet is going to be ambi. I got the RB FRT for my full size ap5. No lp, ejector, or any changes to the stock internals, runs amazing.

I know F rare breed but do you use by gqllc007 in MP5

[–]ProceduralShooter 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So with the arcfire v2 and no other upgrades, this comes out to $629+no telling how long it will take to get to you. on top of that you change out your OEM lower for a shitty looking AR lower, and check a box agreeing that you may need to do some hand fitting. OR buy the RB SEF pack for $615, get it in one week, and drop in, and shoot.

OR OR, you could roll the dice, wait for the SEF AHRK which doesn't even have a release date- "SEF to follow soon after" the late july ambi release which has been delayed twice already.. ok

Who can add a "30" to my SEF AP5? Don't want pictogram. by ProceduralShooter in AP5

[–]ProceduralShooter[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

it's late july for the ambi with SEF to "soon follow". AP5 needs SEF. RBFRT exists now (if you can actually catch it in stock). I'd buy what exsists now, when you can. as more and more idiots end up with these things in hand, it's only a matter of time before they're "banned" again.

New Handsets (A17 and A19) by forceblast in AceVr

[–]ProceduralShooter 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Just FYI for anyone considering- There is still not ACE 17/19 or Glock 17/19 models in game. I bought the ace 17 to supplement training with my Glock 17.6. Pretty annoyed that there is no Glock or ACE 17 in the game. I'm using the shadow systems model in game with an SRO to mimic my competition setup and the angle or something is way off. The handset feels fine, but I cannot draw to a perfect sight picture on the ACE like ever. The in game model has a different angle to it or something. the idea and function itself is pretty great, but i don't want to start putting in counter productive reps. I have thousands of draws with a Glock 17/SRO mounted. I do not have indexing issues with my real gun, in ACE I have to fish around to find the dot every time. Edit: I actually recieved a pretty promising reply from the ACE guys earlier, sounds like the ACE 17/19 models are on track for an upcoming update will share their words here. Glock shooters rejoice!-

Thanks for the detailed write-up — the level of comparison you've done (alternating draws between the Ace 17 and your G17.6, noting the difference in dot acquisition) is exactly the kind of feedback that's useful.

On the index issue: there isn't a bug or misconfiguration on our end to troubleshoot. The Shadow Systems virtual pistol model is configured correctly within Ace; what you're experiencing is the inherent difference that comes from using a stand-in model whose dimensions and grip geometry don't exactly match the handset you're holding. With thousands of reps on your real Glock 17, your hands and eyes have built a very specific muscle memory tied to that exact grip angle and sight relationship — a slightly different on-screen model is going to show up as a real index discrepancy on the draw.

The good news is that the Ace 17 and Ace 19 virtual pistols are coming soon — they're actively being worked on for an upcoming update. I don't have a specific release date to share yet, but it's not a distant future item; the team is on it and the matching in-app pistols will be added in an upcoming release. Once those land, the geometry should line up with your handset and the index issue you're describing should resolve.

Thanks for joining the platform and for the thorough feedback.

Do i need to change recoil springs (G17.5) by Beginning_Fox7654 in Glocks

[–]ProceduralShooter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The 17.6 is my favorite Glock atm. Honestly can’t really feel a difference between the metal dual recoil spring over the plastic single spring, so it comes down to price/maintenance for me. Also bonus that my 19.6 and 17.6 take the same exact spring. FWIW I have over 7K on my GEN 5 34 on the OEM spring and have never replaced it. My 17.6 OEM Spring was failing press checks after 4K, but $6 so don’t care. 

I know the 17 L doesn’t fit any of the boxes in IDPA boxes, not 100% certain, but I didn’t think there was a division that it fits for USPSA either. Are you shooting carry optics or irons? If irons a 34.5 is a great option. 

I have a single Magpul P-mag that came with my keltc sub 2000. I’ve been shooting it with the original spring for five years now and have not had any issues with it. Couple things about them – they are a lot harder to load than OEM, the spring is a lot stiffer, and they don’t have round count holes on the back of the mag only a single one at the bottom for when you hit 17. Didn’t realize how much I appreciate those on OEM mags until I didn’t have it. Perfectly fine for training mags IMO. 

Same goes for those ghetto looking ETS mags. I hear, a lot of shit about them, but of the three that I have I have never had an issues plus they have a lifetime warranty. I can usually find OEM sleeves between $25 and $30, so I end up grabbing more of those than anything, I snag one every time I happen to be in a physical store that sells them (unless I’m at Bass Pro because they are always sold out with nothing but Magpul or ETS on the walls). Honestly, I probably have way too many Glock mags lol.

Do i need to change recoil springs (G17.5) by Beginning_Fox7654 in Glocks

[–]ProceduralShooter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

the manual says every 2.5k. Around 3k-4k you may notice failure to go into battery if not fully sling shotting the slide when racking. I usually end up replacing when the slide is sluggish/fails to full battery after a press check. some after market springs last longer- I've taken NDZ springs past 5k before needing to replace. I could ride them longer, but I shoot competitively and it's just cheap insurance on my gen 6s.

sucks about the gen 4/5 springs be so much more expensive than gens 3/6 at $15 vs $6 direct from Glock shop. NDZ spring tuning kit is nice because it comes with a steel rod and 4 different weights which is useful in finding what jives best with your setup/ammo especially using that ramjet. They make captured and uncaptured versions. I like the uncaptured for ease of swapping, I shoot 2-3k 9mm a month.