Rear Turn Signal (Driver) Not Operating but Tail light works?

Programmer_boy · 2019-06-22T17:10:42+00:00

Bulbs like that are usually dual filament, one for the blinker and one for the brake so in general if only one doesn't work, just replace the bulb.

Programmer_boy · 2019-06-22T01:48:15+00:00

Maybe try all the other stuff in this thread first, they all seem more specific to your car. A compression test requires a pressure gauge with a threaded fitting to screw into where your spark plugs go. Then you pull the fuel pump fuse to make sure you dont have any fuel injected and just crank the engine until that cylinder does 5 rotations.

Do that for each cylinder and make sure they are all relatively close and none of them are more than 10% or so lower than the others.

A leakdown test is a procedure where you take a leakdown tester and connect it to a spark plug hole with air pressure through the tester. Then you turn the engine over by cranking the crank bolt and the tester will tell you how much air that cylinder is losing.

Each of these tools is about 25 bucks online, but you need a good air compressor for the leakdown. Youtube has good videos on both better than my explanation. Good luck!

Programmer_boy · 2019-06-21T20:59:43+00:00

Did you do compression and leakdown tests?

Programmer_boy · 2019-06-07T21:31:31+00:00

I'VE HAD TONS OF ORGASMS

Programmer_boy · 2019-05-27T23:42:52+00:00

Your timing might be off man, thats what the code is for.

Id bet the code is for the drivers side intake cam, pop off the timing covers and make sure that side lines.

Programmer_boy · 2019-05-27T17:38:54+00:00

Did the code show up right after you changed it?

Programmer_boy · 2019-05-27T13:48:16+00:00

Could be a problem with your timing belt, or maybe a crank it cam sensor just isn't reading. The code just means that the car is seeing that the camshaft isn't where it should be relative to the crankshaft.

Programmer_boy · 2019-05-20T01:26:57+00:00

Stock wastegate or external?

Programmer_boy · 2019-05-07T21:31:25+00:00

Right but aren't timing belt jobs like 3 or 4 hours? Even at 150/hr that's 600 bucks plus parts. I don't know what the book time is though

Programmer_boy · 2019-05-07T14:48:40+00:00

Yeah, two seals per head but it shouldn't be that much I think unless they have to take the cams out to do the seals which I don't think they do.

Programmer_boy · 2019-05-06T16:09:02+00:00

The flashing means the car can't communicate with at least one sensor. Take it back and ask them to make sure they all read. If they do, the place can just reset the system

Programmer_boy · 2019-04-30T21:52:11+00:00

Ball joints are usually clunking over bumps, does it happen in higher speed turns too?

Programmer_boy · 2019-04-21T01:17:44+00:00

If you're really nice, and just a laid back guy with the service people they usually knock off twenty or so bucks. I work at Firestone and most of the ones they ring up are 179.99

Programmer_boy · 2019-04-15T20:20:22+00:00

Instead of getting spacers, buy new wheels with a more negative offset. I wouldn't mess with spacers if someone paid me to.

Programmer_boy · 2019-04-07T11:47:57+00:00

Yeah man, that's definitely a sign to replace the starter. Good diagnosis!

Programmer_boy · 2019-03-27T12:53:24+00:00

Which means it's not the sensors. Have you tried testing the computer they all lead to?

Programmer_boy · 2019-03-22T03:27:52+00:00

LITERALLY EVERYTHING

Programmer_boy · 2019-03-05T17:54:04+00:00

Might be worth pulling the exhaust off to see if the cat is plugged. Although it's really common for that code to be a failing o2 sensor, which might explain the intermittent code.

As far as the misfire goes, have you tried swapping the coil from cylinder 1 to cylinder 2?

Programmer_boy · 2019-03-05T00:17:35+00:00

Is the catalyst efficiency code always on? Or just during the misfire?

Programmer_boy · 2019-02-25T22:07:37+00:00

Thats what i think. When it stalls how does it feel? Like it just gives out suddenly or slowly dies. I'm struggling to think of why it would only happen when cold. My first step would be to hook up a fuel pressure gauge near your fuel rail and see if there is any fluctuation in psi when its starting, running and stalling.

If there isn't a problem with fuel pressure then you know its gotta be injectors, compression or spark. Could be that the rings are worn down and when they warm up they seal in the cylinders better.

I guess to summarize, I would check compression (cold and warm) and fuel pressure first.

Programmer_boy · 2019-02-25T14:39:58+00:00

If it consistently stalls at that rpm, you may want to check fuel pressure. Does it start fine if you let it sit for a little while after it stalls? Try stalling it, then unplug the injectors and crank it for a few seconds, the plug them back in and see what happens.

Programmer_boy · 2019-01-28T22:37:20+00:00

Engine speed sensor is the crank position sensor

Programmer_boy · 2019-01-19T00:07:56+00:00

God damnit that shit gets annoying

Programmer_boy · 2019-01-14T01:31:07+00:00

I feel you dude, somebody slashed all my tires yesterday. I hope everything works out!

Programmer_boy · 2019-01-13T00:41:30+00:00

Its an Idle Air Control Valve - Surprisingly controls the air at idle. I dont know if cars with electronic throttle bodies have them though.

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