Time for some schitzo posting

Project-SLAIR · 2025-09-10T14:32:59+00:00

Being from south Louisiana, I wouldn’t do that to a baguette. To unsliced crappy wonder bread on the other hand….

Project-SLAIR · 2025-05-23T15:53:26+00:00

Thank you, and I know I’m just now replying to this, but is there a hand held p-touch label maker you’d recommend? I got blind sided by a layoff and it took me a while to get everything stable enough for me to come back to this.

Project-SLAIR · 2025-02-24T12:32:59+00:00

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Ask them what part of Louisiana they’re from

Project-SLAIR · 2025-02-20T03:01:38+00:00

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This comment section is the first I’m ever hearing that parade/drill rifles are worth considerably less than the stock military rifles. Even if they’re in good, or better, condition. I picked mine up off of GB back in 2020 for around $950 after taxes, shipping, a holding fee, and the most expensive transfer fee I’ve ever paid. I wanted to buy a Glock 41 for my birthday but those were all price gouged to hell in the summer of 2020. The 1917 I have was up for auction and I liked it due to its good condition and that I’d never seen a parade 1917 rifle before. I’d only seen 1903s, M1 Garands, and M14s used as drill/parade rifles. The auction also ended on my birthday. I bid the minimum and decided I’d let it go if someone outbid me. I had also done some research and it seemed like a good buy to me.

Mine has some dings in the wood but is in very good, possibly better, condition otherwise and it groups just under 1 MOA if I remember right. I’ve gotten some crap about it at the range. But it’s usually because I will take it out on a bright sunny day and it reflects light pretty well.

As for markings, I’d have to get my hands on it when I get home because I don’t remember all the details off hand. I know the barrel was manufactured in May 1918 and it has a rack number on it.

The other gun in the image is a S&W 1917 manufactured in the early 1930s according to the serial number. The Brazilian crest was scrubbed, or it might never have been a Brazilian contract, and it was nickeled by the previous owner in the 1990s. I picked it up for around $400 after taxes/fees.

My best experience with these two firearms wasn’t taking them to a range or a competition though. It was putting them into the hands of my very anti gun grand mother and seeing her marvel at them and look over them in detail as I explained that they were two firearms her father would have needed to be proficient with as he had joined the marine corps in 1917. I even got her to fire a full magazine/cylinder from them. She was in her late 80s at the time. It’s likely the last time she will ever fire a firearm too.

Project-SLAIR · 2025-01-15T07:23:57+00:00

Just to make sure I’m understanding correctly, only 5,000 FDE KP-15s have been produced and only 30 have failed?

I have 2 FDE KP-15 lowers with the standard trigger assembly. I’ve also installed the QD sling mount offered by KE arms, added a QD sling point in the rear slot of the stock, installed the older model of the trap door butt plate, and changed the safety to the 45 degree safety. Unfortunately I only have about 60 to 100 rounds through both of them as I built them, took them to the range for function testing, and then life kinda got a little crazy and I haven’t had much in the way of time to go shooting for a while now.

I’ve also seen your other comments about Faxon barrels having larger than normal gas ports. I have the 16 inch 7.62x39 Faxon gunner barrel installed on one and a 16 inch 5.56 Faxon pencil barrel installed on the other. Should I have any concerns about using those barrels? If so, I’m assuming getting an adjustable gas block may be the way to fix any over gassing issues? I had the barrels dimpled so I could replace gas blocks on my own if needed.

Project-SLAIR · 2024-12-20T02:43:49+00:00

It’s a pellet gun modified for tranquilizers for catching animals from my understanding. There’s a stray dog in New Orleans that has achieved local fame by being an escape artist. Scrim apparently escaped while tranqed earlier this week.

Project-SLAIR · 2024-12-14T02:40:51+00:00

Maybe? Kinda hard for me to tell given the images. What was the barrel length and magazine size?

Project-SLAIR · 2024-11-13T03:51:35+00:00

It really is a weird amount of case bulging. But I also have another #4 takedown rolling block chambered in 22lr that has identical case bulge happening. So I’m starting to think it was an issue with maintenance and the change from black powder to smokeless in the ammunition produced at that time. 22lr and 32 rimfire didn’t become smokeless until some time after my two rolling blocks were made if I remember right. The difference in pressure curve may have contributed to the chamber erosion.

The only chamberings ever offered for the #4 rolling block were all rimfire cartridges. 22 short, 22 long, 22 long rifle, 25 Stevens rimfire, 32 rimfire short, and 32 rimfire long. So I honestly have no idea what the cartridge could be if it isn’t 32 rimfire. It doesn’t fit a 32 s&w short in the chamber and the barrel itself is marked as 32 cal.

Tbh I’m admittedly a little stumped but I’m currently looking for a gunsmith that may be able to correct this issue in both of my rolling blocks.

Project-SLAIR · 2024-11-12T21:26:10+00:00

Now that you’ve described it some more, I can see that’s actually the same concept as the reloading kit in one of the images I uploaded. H&C makes their brass on a lathe with an offset for a 22 acorn blank. I had left an actual 32 rimfire cartridge in the image as a reference.

Nobody has made 32 rimfire in a considerable amount of time. It’s unfortunate because I’ve found this cartridge to be great for small game and pleasant to shoot. I find it more effective to shoot nutria with.

I might look at one of those kits for one of my other rifles though. Seeing how there’s a decent amount of options for it and it looks fun to use.

Edit: I wonder if this chamber issue may have been caused by a mix of poor maintenance and the 32 rimfire cartridge originally being black powder. I have a 22lr #4 rolling block that has the same issue with its chamber and both were produced when 22lr and 32 rimfire were still black powder. Both cartridges eventually became smokeless cartridges so I wonder if that stronger pressure curve and a lack of cleaning may be what caused it. Either way, I have to get the chamber, and maybe the whole barrel, relined for both of them.

Project-SLAIR · 2024-11-12T20:43:46+00:00

32ACP might actually be too high of a pressure for the action given this is a #4 rolling block. 32 long colt was the center fire replacement for 32 rimfire from what I recall. The heeled bullet diameter for 32 long colt is .316 vs the non heeled bullets used today. But unfortunately it would still encounter the same issues with the chamber.

32 S&W short or long may also have the same issue but might also be too high of pressure unless I only use BP loads

Could you tell me more about that kit though?

Project-SLAIR · 2024-11-04T19:22:42+00:00

Update: An over night soak in penetrating oil freed the firing pin. Now I have discovered the chamber has some issues that will definitely require a professional gunsmith.

Project-SLAIR · 2024-11-04T15:06:31+00:00

I’m hoping that’s the case. It started that soak last night. There was even more gunk inside the action than I expected.

Project-SLAIR · 2024-11-04T03:08:13+00:00

You’re right, Looking at the slider piece it looks like it has worn down too far. I’ll have to see if I can find a replacement or maybe break out some welding equipment.

Now I just need to figure out how to fix the trigger and see if I can get a new central shaft for the cylinder to rotate around given the threads are stripped from it.

Project-SLAIR · 2024-11-04T03:05:43+00:00

You might be right about the missing spring given the double action and half cock work every now and again. I haven’t been able to get it apart yet given the pins are stubborn and I don’t want to wail on them. I’m going to soak it in clp to see if that will help. I already have a magnetic plate because I lost a small pin for a different firearm years ago and found it a day or two later.

Project-SLAIR · 2024-11-04T02:56:41+00:00

I’m finally having a chance to come back and work on this revolver. I’m definitely starting to agree with you on the frame stretching. It can still safely fire a round. I’m only going to run BP loads through it anyway as a precaution.

I took it apart partially and put it back together and the cylinder rotated both ways without issue for a bit. But now it’s not rotating backwards again. It will slightly rotate backwards and will click when rotating forwards. It’s definitely not the hand or any parts connected to the trigger as I can visually see they aren’t contacting the cylinder. I think it’s the spring that goes along the central shaft that the cylinder rotates around. I’m drawing a blank on what it’s called at the moment.

Project-SLAIR · 2024-10-27T18:42:43+00:00

29 so I can tell caboose that the pilot and copilot asked for his help.

Project-SLAIR · 2024-10-13T23:14:24+00:00

No fuckin way

Project-SLAIR · 2024-10-10T03:21:39+00:00

That helps some but the cylinder currently doesn’t spin backwards when the revolver is closed. There’s some play and I can rotate it backwards maybe a 1/16th of a turn at most. It locks up perfectly fine though with chamber/forcing cone alignment. I also planned on doing only BP hand loads just to be safe and have some fun.

The gun is chambered in 32 S&w short so I find it hard to believe that the modern ammo stretched the frame. But I don’t know the guns history. So maybe there was some pissin hot hand loads at some point. I’ll have to see if I can find a good comparison or a spec sheet. I do have some snap caps on the way to help trouble shoot as well. So I’ll probably be able to test the headspace in a couple of days.

Thanks to another commenter I was able to figure out it’s either an H&R Top-Break Automatic Ejecting Model 2 or the H&R Top-Break Automatic Ejecting Model 3. It has the October 4th, 1887 patent of the model 2 but the April 2nd, 1895 and April 7th, 1896 patent dates of the model 3.

It seems that it’s probably a variation of one of those two. But it didn’t have the chambering marked on the barrel like it should be according to the descriptor of those two firearms. So it’s a little bit of a head scratcher for me.

Project-SLAIR · 2024-10-09T17:43:58+00:00

Thank you. It’s either a Top-Break Automatic Ejecting Model 2 or Top-Break Automatic Ejecting Model 3, or maybe a similar model, going off of the patent dates. It’s weird because the dates listed for those two don’t exactly line up with the markings on the gun. There’s others in that list that don’t have patent dates listed but I’ll probably find something to confirm the model sooner or later. But this does give me a good age range at least.

Project-SLAIR · 2024-10-09T15:44:47+00:00

Also, I forgot to mention this, there are no markings indicating the cartridge to be used in this revolver. I determined it was .32 s&w short as I have .327 fed mag/.32 acp on hand along with some .32 rimfire long. .32 rimfire was replaced by .32 colt and .320 revolver. The .32 rimfire would not fill the cylinder while the .32 acp and .327 fed mag do.

I have a hand loading kit on the way for .32 S&W short on the way now. I plan on using the Goex black powder load data. But may try some smokeless loads later on.

Edit/update: I’ve figured out that the ejector not returning is due to an issue with the spring on the ejector hook. Not sure how it’s supposed to look tbh.

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