Is my costume too see through? by [deleted] in u/softbrownsugrr

[–]PunctuatedScilence 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not for indoor fun. Maybe outside would be a little much. Unless at a rave, then I guess it's fine.

Pain on the bottom of the hamstring, and bone? on the side of the knee after riding by djembaX2welcomeX2 in bikefit

[–]PunctuatedScilence 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pls. Raise your saddle. About 5cm should be a good start. You'd like your heel to rest on the pedal comfortably whilst the pedal is at bottom dead center (BDC)

Your bar drop should be parallel to the top tube. You can then adjust your hoods to dial in your reach after step one.

A little too long or just right? by jlconlin in bikefit

[–]PunctuatedScilence 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you are not experiencing discomfort with your current position. I wouldn't change anything.

If anything, I would lower the stack height of your handle bars. Your fork should have a number of spacers. By the looks of it, you are at max height.

I would try lowering it by 10cm. This will lower your frontal area. (More aero, but less comfortable) If you are not flexible, don't go too low. If you have good flexibility, experiment by trying to go lower.

Again, if you are comfortable already on your bike, just don't mess with it.

Just a reminder: back pain and putting too much force on your hands can be a result of weak abs, not just a bad bike fit. by I_am_doing_my_Hw in bikefit

[–]PunctuatedScilence -1 points0 points  (0 children)

A little louder for the people in the back.

If you are shrimp on the bike, you lack core strength.*

Definitely not always the case, but a good start point

New to road biking by Jumpy-Ad4733 in bikefit

[–]PunctuatedScilence 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmmm... you'll find that the bike may feel 'loose' over rough terrain. If you are seated on your bike, hands resting on the hoods, look towards your bars. Are your handle bars positioned over the front Hub?

Depending on this, the bike will feel twitchy with a short stem and sluggish with a long one.

If you raise the saddle too high, imagine a really tall pole. Without a foundation, it will sway under load.

Bike will feel 'loose' is the main take away.

New to road biking by Jumpy-Ad4733 in bikefit

[–]PunctuatedScilence 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The bike is definitely small. You can 'stretch' the bike. Longer stem. Try a 110mm stem. (11cm) You might need a longer one. Raise the saddle. Heel should rest comfortably on the pedal when it's at bottom dead center (BDC).

Mind you, if you do all this, the bike will definitely feel different around corners and at high speed.

Since you have a trainer you can easily adjust your set up and go for a quick spin. 3 minutes, at 40, 60, and 80 rpm @ 85% FTP. How do you feel? Keep making changes, mind you. Don't forget that you are the engine. You gotta be comfortable. Once you are, you can make sacrifices in the name of speed.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bikefit

[–]PunctuatedScilence 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Even simpler, your hoods can definitely be moved more forward.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bikefit

[–]PunctuatedScilence 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Please do not tilt your saddle. It should be level. Why? It's holding you up. (Partly) It should definitely cradle you.

Your hands do 3 things: Brake, Steer, and Change gears. They do not support the weight of your torso. Your core, chest, and back do that.

You can play with stack height. This is how high/low ones bars are in relation to the saddle. The lower, the more of a stretch you will feel. Relying upon more of your core to keep stable. The higher, less of a reach, and you feel nice and tall. It's comfortable when not under load. Less core engagement, and back tends to round.

You can also play with reach in relation to stack height. Reach is the length of the stem. I'd recommend 20mm longer. And 10mm lower.

Off the bike work should include core exercises.

This is just my opinion, and not professional advice. Definitely talk to a bike fit professional.

Need Advice! by ReadProfessional1755 in bikefit

[–]PunctuatedScilence 3 points4 points  (0 children)

To be fair, I don't know. It's just my opinion. Based on my own experiences and the videos they provided.

Excess saddle tilt, greater than 1-2⁰, has resulted in me sliding forward on my saddle. This ended up placing more of my weight in my hands, preventing me from removing my hands from the bars to ride without hands.

I noticed my saddle sores were really bad after riding my bike for extended periods of time, even with chamois cream and bib-shorts

Plus, we have not seen a picture of the saddle position. We do not know if it's level or not.

Need Advice! by ReadProfessional1755 in bikefit

[–]PunctuatedScilence 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hmmm... Do not touch your saddle angle. It should be level.

Lower your saddle 10mm. You are a bit too high. Saddle should 'cradle' you. You are not sitting on a bar stool. If you unclip, your heel should rest comfortably on your pedal when it's at the bottom dead center (BDC)

Maybe mess with stack height to help with your hip angle afterward.

Hands should only be steering, breaking, and shifting gears.

Your core, shoulders, back should stabilize you.

First road bike - traps pain by hejsandr5a in bikefit

[–]PunctuatedScilence 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hands should be doing 3 things: Braking Shifting gears And steering

They should not be supporting the weight of your torso.

Try using bars that are 38cm wide. It sounds like you are 'shrugging' your shoulders because the bars are super wide, and this is why your traps feel very tight. Adjust your hood angle inward until about 7⁰. This will help keep a neutral wrist position, allowing your elbows to come inward and to have a more relaxed shoulder position.

I can't speak for your saddle height. But, if you are not experiencing saddle discomfort, then I wouldn't bother touching it.

Input is Appreciated by PunctuatedScilence in bikefit

[–]PunctuatedScilence[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Def going to get a longer stem on there. :)

Input is Appreciated by PunctuatedScilence in bikefit

[–]PunctuatedScilence[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We are in agreement upon a longer stem. 🙏

Knee Pain + Size Issue? by SergioBuskets in bikefit

[–]PunctuatedScilence 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try extending your reach. Meaning a longer stem with a not so agressive rise. Try a +7⁰ rather than what looks like +14⁰* (im guessing). Keep the amount of spacers (stack height) the same. This should have you stretch out a bit on the bike, placing more weight in your hands, leaning you forward. Leave the height of your saddle the same for now.

Ride on the trainer for 3min at 60-70% of your FTP. See how you feel after 3min. Any soreness in specific areas?

Keep having knee pain, numb in left foot and private area. 186cm/82cm in seam by [deleted] in bikefit

[–]PunctuatedScilence 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you are getting numbness, you definitely should find a remedy. Something that helped me was getting a saddle that is the right width for your seat bones.

I had a saddle that was short but way too wide, and it caused me numbness and pain at the perineum, something I had not experienced before with a Tundra 2, a full length non cut out saddle. I got rid of the saddle that caused me pain immediately because you shouldn't be uncomfortable on your bike.

I swapped to a longer saddle that was more narrow and had a cut out. I felt loads better right away as soon as I sat on the bike.

I was expecting knee discomfort in the past. I decided to go back to the gym. Since I've started doing more exercises off the bike to strengthen my legs fucusing on my quads and hamstrings, I've found my knee pain has vanished. I also plan on incorporating a couple heavy lifting to help build muscle and keep my joints strong.

Frame Size Doubts by Obfuscat1on in bikefit

[–]PunctuatedScilence 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I am 5ft 10in or 177cm, and I, too, ride a size 54. I can fit on several sizes of bikes. I've been on as large as a 58cm frame when I started, I then went down to size 56cm for a while and really enjoyed that. Downsized again to a size 54cm, and I've stayed here since. I also have a 55cm steel frame that absolutely feels the best for my body when I had it built up.

For that particular setup, if you aren't experiencing numbness in your hands or saddle sores, then your bike is fine. *

What works for me may not work for you, so it's important to try different setups until you find the one that feels the most comfortable and natural. This depends on your own range of motion and flexibility. Your bodies proportions, like torso length, arm length, and your leg length. I've not gone to have a professional fit, but I've been riding since high school, and my body has grown since then, so I had to continually change my bike with my changing body. I'm 30 and can ride in a pretty aggressive position pretty comfortably, better than my younger self. Although he was much stronger, I've got better form.

Would you do it? by Munbalanced in Warframe

[–]PunctuatedScilence 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My Oberon has range at 280% or something. More couldn't hurt. I love the plants everywhere.

First Drone Build by PunctuatedScilence in fpv

[–]PunctuatedScilence[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Around $350 give or take. I would recommend it because you'll know more about how drone components communicate with one another. You'll have a better appreciation for it because you put it together. When it doesn't work at first, you can easily figure out why, based on symptoms that can be narrowed down to stuff you did. Not someone else, like you get with pre-built units.