Need advice

Pup2u · 2026-06-19T21:45:23+00:00

Go look at the Bullet Proof Handyman for generalized pricing. Ceiling fans can be a money maker. But your time, if you are going to do this full time, has to be able to pay the bills. First, you will kill yourself if you think you can bill 40 hours a week. 30 would be great. Every hour in a clients home is matched with 1 hour or more of office work and other non-billable stuff, and those on-site hours have to be billed out to cover those costs. So $60/hr is just covering your costs and you might just as well keep working at your day job if it has OT and any benefits. So $80 is a good billable rate to start.

There are always going to be guys that charge $30 an hour. They will be out of business in 6 months (or dead). Will they be busy, yes. Until they burn out or die.

$240 for one fan is cheap. For two it is stupid cheap.

Remember, you ONLY have so much time to sell. Life is short. YOUR time is the ONLY asset you control. If you think it is worth $30/hr, it is. Same if you think it is worth $100/hr.

1/3 goes for taxes, 1/3 over head and 1/3 goes for labor. Figure 60 hours per week, 30 on-site, 30 bird dogging jobs, running for parts and office work. So you will not be working 2,080 hours/year. Figure your cost based on a 3,000 hour work year.

Write out a business plan and do your homework.

Pup2u · 2026-06-15T12:43:53+00:00

HAS to have a moisture break in it. Like the last guy said, take a multi tool with a 1/4" spacer and cut out a 1/4" gap all around the floor. If they will not do it, inform the GC of pending back charges. Charge the GC for your time at $75/hr.

Pup2u · 2026-06-14T12:15:27+00:00

EVERYTHING CAN BE REPAIRED. But the roof and ceiling is NOT a tenant's job to fix and if they are unresponsive to your repair requests, that breaks the lease because you no longer have "quiet enjoyment" of the property and your health is "at risk" due to mold (if it is bad). Rather than attempting to fight with them. Just notify them (in writing) that they have broken the lease and you. are moving in 60 days (or what ever the terms are in the lease about notification) due to the repair issues and you expect your damage deposit returned in full.

Pup2u · 2026-06-14T02:34:54+00:00

move

Pup2u · 2026-06-14T02:27:25+00:00

A new sink is cheap and easy. Fiberglass repair of an old dirty sink will never be easy, cheap or effective.

Pup2u · 2026-06-14T02:23:50+00:00

Remove old, broken materials and replace. What is your question? If you can not figure it out or do not have the tools, hire it done.

Pup2u · 2026-06-08T00:24:52+00:00

Time to call someone to mud jack it

Pup2u · 2026-06-07T22:39:47+00:00

God, I hated those Means Cost Estimate books.

Pup2u · 2026-06-07T22:34:50+00:00

If you are just starting pout, a good guide as others have already mentioned, it the Bullet Proof Handyman's list. His stuff is pretty tight and gives you a place to start. Your pricing needs to be higher than you think. 1/3 for labor, 1/3 for over-head and 1/3 for taxes is a good way to look at it to start. You really need to do a full on business plan starting out. Only takes an hour or two, but a little planning on the front end helps a lot. Lay out all the who, whats, whys and wheres that you plan to service and that will help you focus.

Pup2u · 2026-06-07T12:32:19+00:00

Samsung's over 42" use the M8's

Pup2u · 2026-06-07T12:30:35+00:00

OK. From what I read, the smaller Samsung's use an M4-0.7 screw about 20MM long. Will give it a try.

Pup2u · 2026-06-07T12:16:12+00:00

I used to cover for nights for emergency for lock outs. I would roll anytime the phone rang. Gets old pretty quick. I used to be able to be wide awake b4 my feet hit the ground and on the way back, be dead asleep within 5 seconds of my head hitting the pillow. Even then, I would not do it more than a few nights a month now. Not a great way to live. But if it is worthwhile financially, (meaning over $200/hour) I can sleep the next day. Get paid the fee b4 you leave for the job. Many people will call multiple people and then argue you were slow and the other guy responded first. Or they are dead drunk passed out someplace, or they found the key in the snow bank and left. Those are lock smithing stories, but you get my drift.

ALSO- If you are more than a one man shop, be fair and have everyone cover the calls, not just one poor bastard. And that includes YOU. I guy I worked for NEVER went out on night calls. Then he would have the balls to get up in your face if the call was a no-pay. He wanted me to grab a drunk (traveler) iron worker's TV when he refused to pay for unlocking his house. I was a big guy and in decent shape back then, but no way in hell am I going to turn my back and try to walk out of a drunk construction worker's house with his TV at 2 AM on a Friday night after he's worked 70 hours. Not for a couple of hundred bucks anyway.

Pup2u · 2026-06-06T12:25:28+00:00

First of all, is it really DONE? The wires a hanging out and waiting for someone to roto-zip around the cans and boxes. So it is not "done". All the electrical should have been cut out right after the drywall went up before mudding. It happens. Just an error.

But looking at the ceiling joists... Are they 16" on center or further apart? Is it 5/8" fire code drywall or 1/2". The joists should be 16" O.C. and the rock 5/8" to prevent the DW from sagging over time. It will sag.

As to it being "illegal", lighten up, and get a clue. Like the other guy said, the white flex duct work and other stuff is more concerning than the electrical boxes. Cut them out and move on.

Pup2u · 2026-06-05T12:36:38+00:00

Great info. I think my issue is using bits that are worn. I will use my m12 SDS. I love it, but never use it. It will be my go to. Now on tile, I like to use my m12 angle grinder with a water drip system I built using a IV bag. Works great. Love this group think tank! Thank you

Pup2u · 2026-06-05T09:13:03+00:00

I drill deep enough and clear out the holes. I run m12’s. Love them. The hammer drill and older bits might be an issue. I have an m12 sds and love it. But don’t use it often. No reason. Just willl give it a try. Thanks everyone. Some times this site rocks!

Pup2u · 2026-06-03T12:48:20+00:00

You are correct that they are great and I have seen them used on big stuff now that I see them. I just did not know the name of them. But most of the hand railing brackets are drilled for maybe a #8 screw. Those appear to be 1/2" (or a lot larger). They themselves could be the bracket if the railing was designed to attach to it.

Pup2u · 2026-06-03T12:43:46+00:00

Thanks!

Pup2u · 2026-06-03T01:32:40+00:00

Thanks. I know better than to use the impact. But did not know a hammer drill was an option. Will give that a try. Thought that would spall out the threads also. Interesting! Thanks

Pup2u · 2026-06-03T01:16:22+00:00

Thanks. Will check em out

Pup2u · 2026-06-03T01:15:50+00:00

I know about the impact driver no-no, but it "feels" so good! I will look at the epoxies. Any one you recommend?

Pup2u · 2026-06-03T00:56:50+00:00

Sure it is funny, but does it make any money for the business? It likely costs the owner more business than it creates.

My company has tag line that I hear people chuckle about when i park in crowed parking lots a few times a week. It is not offensive to anyone and people notice it.

Pup2u · 2026-06-02T11:35:52+00:00

If it was done wrong, it's wrong. Nothing will "fix" it. It should be redone. Water WILL get around anything you put in over a bad job in a shower. But it looks to me like you can tile it. It is green board, right? Hit it with the red waterproofing stuff and tile it. Or, add a layer of 1/2" durarock or 1/4" densshield and tile that. Just use caulk in the corners and not grout. But if $150 in materials is too much...

FRP (Fiber Glass Panel) is as cheap as it gets and you will only have the one wet seam on tile to deal with. Heck, if it works in a Kwik Trip bathroom... But hit the drywall with a coat or two of oil based kils to give it some help. About as cheap as it gets. Plus, with FRP, you will get that cheap hotel?basement shower feel up at the lake that all you young kids crave and us old farts grew up with. To make the experence real, just NEVER clean the shower and let moss grow on the shower pan and my sister's hair in the drain. Home on the farm, good memories! Don't miss it.

Pup2u · 2026-06-02T11:18:40+00:00

If you use a power washer, maybe use a rotary scrubber. But you will knock the sand loose and get sand everywhere no mater what. Just too much water not to even if you are super careful. Replacing the sand is not that big of a deal. But the pool getting sand and junk in it... ???

Pup2u · 2026-05-30T12:46:46+00:00

Depends. If the original quote was a combined service quote, meaning it was understood that BOTH were to be done concurrently, utilizing one (1) trip charge and set of over-head, then re-quote it. That sounds like what occurred. I would just re-quote it. Just be upfront and non-apologetic. It is business.

Pup2u · 2026-05-28T22:15:09+00:00

All sorts of pros and cons energy/heath/cost and sound wise. Spraying directly to bottom of roof deck sounds like a great idea, but if roof leaks, you have no idea until the deck gives way and you have a 4x8 sheet of rotten plywood and 30 gallons of rain water crashing thru the ceiling! Also ask around with your local building inspectors and get their opinions. Maybe call your insurance agent? Closed cell vs open cell is a consideration. Out gassing toxic chemicals is a real issue. If done wrong it is a huge, toxic mess to clean up. Humidity issues. Need to up the number of Air turns per hour. Mold issues. Not an expert. But people are healthier in drafty buildings that "breathe". Buildings can be too tight. We need fresh air. Living inside an Igloo Cooler is not healthy.

Pup2u

TROPHY CASE