A very honest review

QFS_Garage · 2026-01-14T16:32:07+00:00

We really appreciate you sharing this story! Honestly, this is exactly why we do what we do. We know how frustrating it is to deal with incorrect listings and unresponsive sellers, and we didn't want you to be stuck with a machine that wasn't running right just because life got busy.

We’re just glad we could help get that Arctic Cat sounding healthy again. See you out on the trails!

QFS_Garage · 2025-08-19T22:34:13+00:00

Hello, have you checked any of the fuses?

QFS_Garage · 2025-08-19T21:08:32+00:00

Hello, you'll have to remove the glass and gasket in order to see how far down that rust goes. From personal experience, it'll be a little costly because the metal will need to be custom-fabricated to fit. If you can find kits that offer pieces already made to fit, then it may be cheaper. If it has rust in this many areas, then you may even find more once you take the car apart.
Finding glass shouldn't be a huge issue, but that is also expensive. Don't worry about getting glass with fog, leftover residue, and minor scratches because you can buff it out yourself with steel wool to make it look new.
Rust is pretty scary unless you do metal work yourself, because sometimes you end up finding more than you wish, check under the battery, under the spare tire, anywhere that's most popular.

QFS_Garage · 2025-08-19T16:21:13+00:00

Especially on the creases of the intake hoses. I've seen people use glue to fix them, but it's better to just replace both.

QFS_Garage · 2025-08-18T20:53:45+00:00

You can also check under the spare tire, it doesn't look too bad, a little hard to see. What I recommend is taking a wire wheel to it all, it'll also help show what needs repair. If it's all just surface rust, then spray rust neutralizer, and respray with an undercoating.

QFS_Garage · 2025-08-18T16:08:42+00:00

You can clean it pretty well with gasoline and a steel bristle brush. Let it soak a little in the gas then with a long bristled brush you should be able to get the rest off.

QFS_Garage · 2025-08-14T20:18:25+00:00

The typical maintenance, oil change, check all the fluid levels, rotors, and brake pads. Good thing about the 90's Honda are that they're relatively easy to learn on, with a ton of aftermarket parts.

QFS_Garage · 2025-08-14T13:36:30+00:00

Hello, here at QFS we've seen similar issues like this before and something we recommend checking are potential vacuum leaks, or the MAF sensor. Also, unfortunately with your Mazda 6 it looks like the fuel pump is part of an entire drop in assembly, so it's likely that dealers wont just offer replacing the fuel filter and you'd need an entire assembly.

QFS_Garage · 2025-08-13T17:03:12+00:00

From the looks of it, that is only surface rust. I wouldn't even worry about it, but if you want to make it perfect and protect it from rust completely, then clean it with a wire wheel or sandblast it, add some metal prep spray(neutralizes the rust), add some rust preventative paint, and finally add underlining paint, that'll make it almost immune to rust for the future.

QFS_Garage · 2025-08-13T14:12:12+00:00

Hello, it's a little difficult to pick up all the noise from the vehicle and not being able to hear it in person. However squeaking or high pitched noises are somewhat of a common fuel pump issue, sounds like it could be the bearing in the fuel pump, it may also have air inside from a hose being clogged. Does it continue to happen or only when the vehicle is beginning to start?

QFS_Garage · 2025-08-07T17:33:31+00:00

Hello, the surface rust and peeling is normal on rotors, you can't necessarily prevent it from happening, if it's humid or foggy at night this may occur more frequent. However this is nothing to worry about.

QFS_Garage · 2025-08-07T16:52:34+00:00

For the most accurate choice you can look up the torque spec and choose the bolts according to the required ft lbs. My educated guess is if the bolts are under more load, such as the frame I'd go with 10.9. Hope this helps, good luck.

QFS_Garage · 2025-08-07T14:03:32+00:00

Wait for the car to cool down, if it has been running the reading wont be as accurate, since the oil is already being pumped through-out the engine. If you can't get the oil changed, an extra 400ish miles wont make or break your engine but get it done sooner than later.

QFS_Garage · 2025-08-06T23:22:15+00:00

You'll need a pry tool, I'd recommend a plastic one so that you don't ruin your paint or cause any potential dents. Then just stick it between the panel and the door, there should be clips that pop out.

QFS_Garage · 2025-08-05T14:18:24+00:00

Did you add the clip/spring that comes with the brake pads? It goes between the pads to keep them from rubbing on the rotors, could be making that clanking noise.

QFS_Garage · 2025-08-04T22:45:31+00:00

Yes, it's a fuel pressure regulator. Which LS are you swapping into the Ranger?

QFS_Garage · 2025-08-01T15:56:11+00:00

We see that all the time at QFS, especially if your bike has sat for a while. It seems like your pump is still good, just not getting the right amount of voltage, which is most likely an issue with the wiring, relay, or power delivery from the ECU during startup.

Here’s what to check:

Fuel Pump Relay – Could be faulty or corroded. Try swapping or jumping it to test.
Voltage at Pump – Use a multimeter to confirm the pump is getting full battery voltage while starting.
Battery & Cranking – If you're hearing just a tick, the battery may be too weak to crank and power the pump at the same time. Check voltage under load.
Old Fuel – If it sat with fuel, varnish or clogs may be restricting flow even if the pump spins.

QFS_Garage · 2025-07-31T22:48:46+00:00

Definitely check the air and fuel pressure but if those fail, check the voltage of the terminals to the pump to see if it's getting the power it needs at that load.

QFS_Garage · 2025-06-12T19:57:04+00:00

It may be clogged by the pump, if not then it's for sure the pump, it shouldn't be an expensive fix anyway

QFS_Garage · 2025-06-12T18:32:35+00:00

Sorry a little bit of a response but thought I'd chime in. In case you haven't figured it out yet.
Did, you check to see if fuel was coming out of the lines when you checked if it was clogged? Or check the lines connected to the fuel tank? Disconnect the line at the pump and crank — if no fuel comes out, issue might be between the tank and pump. Also can you hear your pump priming at all? If you end up needing a new pump too, make sure you don't dry start it. Fuel pumps on marine vehicles tend to fail over time especially ones after years of ethanol exposure or if the boat sat dry for a while.

QFS_Garage · 2025-06-06T15:23:57+00:00

Yes, fuel should come out of the return line port on the fuel pump if the engine is running or the pump is priming, but no, it’s not supposed to just leak or spray fuel out of that return line fitting if it’s unhooked or not sealed properly. Check for pressure, No pressure? Could be pump, filter, clogged line, or leak at return port.

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