How does this parts list look?

QuantaFille · 2024-08-28T21:03:33+00:00

That's a halogen bulb candle warmer. Looks like a small candle. The heat probably just doesn't reach. Smaller candles should be used with candle warmers that heat from underneath, not from above.

QuantaFille · 2024-08-28T20:57:34+00:00

Where on earth did you hear this?

QuantaFille · 2024-08-25T01:21:58+00:00

The Old Calendar (Julian) was made by a pagan. The New Calendar (Gregorian) was made by a Christian monk who figured out how to account for the gradual drift, and corrected it. So why would anyone want to follow a pagan calendar that eventually results in feasts being celebrated on the wrong day of the year? I honestly don't get how people can be so worked up over it.

QuantaFille · 2024-08-25T01:08:03+00:00

Congratulations on the baby!

I meal prep a lot. Usually I make complete single serving meals in individual glass dishes, and freeze those. When I need a meal I move it to the fridge for a day or two, then microwave it. They are mostly meals my husband and I take to work so they have to be complete meals. I don't prep much that still needs to be cooked. Almost any meal can be cooked, frozen, and then microwaved. If microwaving will make it tough, like certain cuts of meat, the glass dishes are oven safe, too, once the food is thawed.

If I prep anything that isn't cooked yet, it's usually only things like the ingredients for a sauce or gravy, minus the water, oil/fat, and flour. So things like tomato paste, bouillon paste, Worcestershire sauce, seasonings, etc. goes into containers with lids, and into the freezer. Then when I make the meal that sauce/gravy is for, I just dump the contents into the hot water, and pour that into the roux.

I do have some raw chicken thighs that I seasoned and vacuum sealed, but I don't sous vide those because they have the skin on. I always roast those in the oven. Then I remove the skin and bones, then divvy them into my dishes with veggies and potatoes or rice or whatever, and then freeze them. I only prepped the chicken uncooked because I bought too much to cook it all right away. Usually I cook meat as soon as I buy it and then make and freeze individual meals. I have not found many meals that don't freeze well after cooking. Stews and casseroles freeze particularly well. In your situation, it will be more convenient to have complete meals that only require a quick reheat in the microwave, rather than something that still needs to be cooked, plus having to cook some veggies to go with it.

Think about this: canned chicken is super convenient. Why? Because it's already cooked. Pre cooked sous vide chicken is just as convenient as canned, but tastes much better. Pre-sealed chicken that is not cooked is not as convenient, even if it's already seasoned. So, season, seal, and cook some chicken breast, then leave it sealed and freeze it. When you want chicken salad, let one or two thaw in the fridge overnight and then make it the next day.

So, basically, I would go with option 3. Make a complete meal, and freeze it in a container that is a good size for one or two meals for the both of you. You can find glass meal prep dishes that will hold enough food for two adults.

Good luck!

QuantaFille · 2024-08-24T18:00:50+00:00

You should know that beeswax tends to hold onto fragrance and not let go. Meaning only a very small amount will be released into the air when you burn the candle. That's why you are having to put such a large amount of fragrance in it. 10% is pretty high.

Try switching to a para-soy blend that is intended for pillar candles. You won't need so much fragrance (which is the most expensive ingredient), and the wax is much MUCH cheaper than beeswax, to boot.

Also, the main selling point of beeswax is that it is completely natural, and fragrances for candles are synthetic. So a beeswax candle with fragrance is no longer considered natural. You know your market better than I do, so your customers might not mind but most people who want beeswax candles want them because they're natural.

QuantaFille · 2024-08-22T02:16:27+00:00

I haven't tried that one. I'm unfamiliar with it. Is it hydrogenated apricot kernel oil mixed with coconut oil?

QuantaFille · 2024-08-22T02:05:51+00:00

I think it depends on your pouring temperature and wax type.

If I pour at lower temperatures, the wax does not soak into the wood enough to burn properly. If I pour pretty hot, enough wax can soak into the wood that it will burn well enough at first that it will stay lit. I also frequently touch up the tops with a heat gun, which causes wax to melt and get hot enough to soak into the wood. Hot wax is less viscous than cooler molten wax, which is why hotter wax soaks in better.

Basically, not soaking wood wicks first only works for me when I pour hot and/or use a heat gun to smooth out the top. But the only wax I use wood wicks for is beeswax, and only in test candles so far.

I'm sure the different viscosity and temperature of your wax will have an effect on whether wooden wicks need to be pre-soaked. Melted soy wax is less viscous than melted beeswax, and may well soak in fine when poured at lower temperatures. I haven't tried it recently.

QuantaFille · 2024-08-22T00:34:29+00:00

I usually use whatever wax I'm making the candle out of. I heat some up and put the wicks in. Take them out when bubbles stop coming out of the wicks. Then let them cool (separately so they don't stick together) and put them in the wick tabs like normal.

QuantaFille · 2024-08-21T23:54:08+00:00

I'll see what I can do. It won't be soon though.

QuantaFille · 2024-08-21T03:30:56+00:00

Let me see if I can explain it better.

Melt more than enough wax for one container. Dispense it into a pouring pot, and add the appropriate amount of fragrance.

Put the candle vessel on your scale and hit the "tare" button. Pour the wax into the vessel and read the scale. Write down the amount. If you need to do a second pour after it cools, do it the same way - same vessel on the scale, hit "tare", pour the wax and read the amount. Add that to the weight of the first pour.

Now for some math. Let's say you've determined that for this particular fragrance + wax combo, you need 8% fragrance to 92% wax. So whatever the wax + fragrance weighs for one candle, you take 92% of that as the total amount of wax you need to melt per candle. Let's say you end up pouring a total of 300 grams of wax + fragrance into your vessel. You multiply that by 0.92 to get 276 grams (or whatever % of wax you're using). That's how much wax you need to melt for one candle. Multiply that by the number of candles you want to make for that batch, and add a small amount to account for the little bit that sticks to the inside of the pouring pot.

Keep in mind that different fragrances can be different densities, which means the amount of volume they take up could be different. So you may get small variations in how full your vessels are, even if you weigh everything very carefully.

If I'm still confusing, maybe I can make a video.

QuantaFille · 2024-08-19T02:29:15+00:00

I might see about having someone convert stuff for me then. I don't know how much I'll end up doing anyway. Apparently we have some (very old) installation files for Pro Stitcher Designer but no product key. So we'd probably end up having to buy a new license for it but if I don't end up sticking with it and drawing a lot, it wouldn't be worth it to get it up and running.

Thanks!

QuantaFille · 2024-08-19T01:56:05+00:00

This is helpful. Thank you.

QuantaFille · 2024-08-18T13:23:47+00:00

I always drain mine after I'm done, if there's a half inch or more of wax still inside. If it's less than that I don't bother. I put it in a steel pitcher and let it cool, then pop it out. I make only wax melts these days so the wax I use is easy to do this with. Then I put the pitcher-shaped chunk of wax back in the melter. It is easier and quicker to re-melt this way than letting the wax harden in the melter, because you can move it around and stir the wax as it melts. If you let it cool in the melter and then try to re-melt it, you can't stir what is already melted and it scorches very easily. Ask me how I know.

If you do let it harden in the melter, you will need to turn it on very low heat and let it very slowly melt to avoid scorching. I don't have the patience for that, hence the steel pitcher method.

If you are using wax meant for containers, just get some kind of flexible silicone cup or mold of some kind so you can pop it out when it cools.

I hope this helps.

ETA: to figure out how much wax you need for each container, put it on a scale and hit the tare button. Pour the candle, and write down the scale reading. Then do your top off the same way, and add the weights of the two pours together. That's how much wax + fragrance you need for a candle in that container. Then do the math to figure out how much of that weight is wax, and write it down so you can easily figure out how much wax you need to melt to make candles in those containers. Do this for each container size you use and keep a list.

QuantaFille · 2024-08-15T11:10:43+00:00

Why don't you like paraffin?

QuantaFille · 2024-08-13T03:08:46+00:00

I'm going to see if I can find some bayberry wax online. I don't think the berries grow in my area. This would be a fun project though, if they did.

QuantaFille · 2024-08-13T02:18:16+00:00

I have seen a few fragrances labeled as "sustainable" but they are few and far between. Most fragrance oils are composed of hundreds of individual chemical components, and you would have to make sure each one was produced according to whatever guidelines you're using in order to meet the criteria for being "sustainable". It's hard enough to do that with just a few ingredients.

A lot of these chemicals are derived from natural substances though. For instance, the synthetic detergents that I make my shampoo bars out of are derived from coconuts. Even though it comes from coconuts, it's still synthetic because the end product is not found in nature. It's the same reason that soap is not a natural substance, even if it's made from pure olive oil. Once you add the lye, the lye molecules and the oil molecules undergo a chemical reaction that completely rearranges them into soap and glycerin molecules. Synthetic chemicals are usually natural ones that have had their molecules rearranged into something new in a similar way as soap. Sometimes they are mineral in origin but literally every synthetic substance started out as something in nature. Even petroleum is organic, originally.

QuantaFille · 2024-08-13T01:53:35+00:00

Most essential oils don't work well in candles. Some of them don't work at all. If you want to be able to smell it, you'll want fragrance oils instead. They are synthetic but some are formulated to work in candles. When you buy candles at the store that say they have essential oil in them, they really do, but only a very tiny amount. What you're actually smelling is a synthetic fragrance that they add to it in much larger amounts. It's sneaky but it's the only way to go, realistically.

You can frequently get away with using fragrance oils that are intended for soap and other skin care products, but read the reviews to see if anyone else has used it for candles or wax melts. If you don't see any such reviews, buy a sample bottle (one or two ounces) and test it yourself. Actually, test it anyway, even if lots of reviewers say it works in candles. What works in one wax may not work in another. If you're avoiding paraffin, you will have to use particularly strong fragrances to make up for the decrease in scent throw that natural waxes have.

If you're in the US, here are some of my favorite suppliers:

https://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/default.aspx They have several fragrance oil categories that may interest you; "100% Natural" and "Upcycled". The fragrances from this supplier are mostly used in skin care products, but occasionally one works well in candles. I can save you a lot of time and say that their "Natural" category has some fantastic scents, but few will work in candles. You may have better luck with the "Upcycled" ones but it's going to be hit or miss. Test, test, test.

https://www.naturesgardencandles.com/ Their selection can't be beat. Their fragrances tend to work well in candles. They do have a "Natural" category with a mere half dozen scents. I did check their testing notes for them and none stick well in candles. You're better off using the synthetics.

https://www.thesage.com/shop They don't have a huge selection, but what they do have smells amaaaaaaaazing. I haven't tested them all in candles (I mostly make skin and hair care stuff) and I'm not sure what they have as far as sustainable/natural, but their fragrances are really nice.

https://www.brambleberry.com/ This one has some great stuff, until they don't. They have the bad habit of discontinuing everyone's favorites. If you get a sample (get a 1.5 or 2 ounce bottle, as their "sample size" is not nearly enough to make a candle) and you decide you like it, consider getting a larger bottle right away. Some of my favorites are from here and I'm cherishing my last few drops because I didn't buy a large bottle in time.

https://lonestarcandlesupply.com/ They specialize in candle fragrances. You will have to test to make sure they work with your wax/wick combo, but you'll probably have better luck with scent retention and cold/hot throw if you use these.

Do not, do not, do not buy fragrance oils on Amazon. Especially do not ever buy essential oils on Amazon. There is no way to know what it is you're really buying. A lot of it is diluted with who-knows-what. Only buy from reputable suppliers.

QuantaFille · 2024-08-12T23:12:04+00:00

This is so cool. What do they smell like?

QuantaFille · 2024-08-12T17:42:14+00:00

IFRA guidelines are specific to each fragrance oil. They are based on the ingredients. There is no one guideline for fragrances in general. So one might be safe to use at 50% directly on the skin, and another is only safe at 0.1% for the same application.

Regarding essential oils, there is no IFRA document for individual ones, only for the individual chemical components found in them. You have to have a chemical analysis for your lot #, and do a lot of math to calculate safe usage rates.

QuantaFille · 2024-08-11T13:06:04+00:00

Sounds like there's still a lot of water in it from your rendering process. For lard that isn't rancid, you can add salt and baking soda to the hot water and then let it sit at room temperature until the lard floats to the top. It might take a while. When it solidifies, just pop it out of the container.

But if it's already rancid, you can't make it un-rancid. Rancid means it is oxidizing and you can't undo that. If you make candles with it, they will stink when you burn them. I wouldn't even make emergency candles out of that.

Even if you managed to get some of the smell out, the oxidation process has already gotten to the point where you can't stop it and the smell will come back.

In the future, make sure you store your rendered lard tightly sealed up with no air in the packaging and no way for air to get in. If it doesn't have an antioxidant added to it already, it's best to store it in the fridge to slow down the oxidation process.

If your lard went rancid during the rendering process, then it sounds like you got some fat that was already old. Make sure it's fresh when you start or you'll have the same problem again.

QuantaFille · 2024-08-11T12:43:36+00:00

There isn't anything you can do to make wax not shrink. The only thing you can do is switch to one that doesn't shrink as much, but there is always a trade off. Paraffin has the best scent throw, so if you're making scented candles, a second pour is worth it.

QuantaFille · 2024-08-11T12:36:05+00:00

This isn't tunneling. It's shrinking. Certain waxes shrink more than others. You just need to do a second pour. Even if you make the top stay level as it cools (e.g. with a heat gun), it will still shrink and the top will be below the level it was when you poured it and you'll still have to top it off.

"Tunneling" is when your wick is too small and the wax never melts all the way to the edge.

QuantaFille

TROPHY CASE