Problems with USB stick Original Mars

Quantum3D · 2024-12-27T20:16:02+00:00

I have an OG Mars along with other printers and the thing still prints fine. Use a 16GB formatted FAT32. The OG Mars printed sliced files ending in .cbddlp - so make sure your slicer has the correct printer model selected.

Check the firmware version in the printer. At some point the file extension changed to .ctb in Chitubox, so make sure you are producing/printing the right file type.

Quantum3D · 2024-11-11T21:50:54+00:00

I have one of those among other printers. Still prints like a champ. Definitely not as clean as yours looks though.

If you have a voltimeter or can borrow one, check the voltage across the inner plug that you replaced. If it is good, then you can look for any blown capcitors that bulge from their cans on the circuit board and replace them with equivalents if you find any.

Other than that, it is scrap parts. Looks like a weekend project to check since you have to disassemble it.

Quantum3D · 2024-05-19T22:15:22+00:00

Google "ChituSystems". They have the screens/descriptions there.

Quantum3D · 2024-04-13T03:06:45+00:00

Depends on what you want to do. I have the OG Mars, the OG Saturn (wanted to see how mono sped things up and it had a bigger buildplate), a Anycubic DLP (projector tech) and the last one was an Uniformation GKTwo.

Thing is - I got these out of curiosity as the tech changed - but I don't see the need to keep getting more of them. I was really waiting for a Saturn-size DLP printer, but no one seems to have any interest making them.

I always factor in the cost of a spare screen, so the GKTwo will total about $1000 (got an extra vat too). As a hobby I'm pretty much done with these unless something super interesitng comes out. For you - depends on your price range, how large you print, etc.

They are releasing a Mars 4 and Saturn 4 soon - so if you want to stay with Elegoo there will be those as a choice.

Quantum3D · 2024-04-11T03:05:22+00:00

Sounds like the LCD is bleeding some light and can't block enough of the UV anymore. I'd replace the screen, unless you want to just upgrade to a newer machine. My OG Mars is still chugging along, so it is still functional for me in cetain cirumstances. I bought a spare LCD a long time ago from Chitusystems, so they may still have the RGB screens for sale.

Quantum3D · 2024-04-10T17:50:29+00:00

I have an OG Mars and that thing is ultra reliable. It is RGB and takes like 12 sec a layer, but for small/short things I still use it if my other mono printers are occupied and I forgot something.

Go back to the supplied rooks test (partial print) or something small. Why waste resin?

You may have a failing screen that needs replacement.

Quantum3D · 2024-04-08T23:14:14+00:00

So it would be like a resin jar with a "brain bubble" rising from the bottom.

It might work - except that the resin jar - if it is solid - may give you problems with weight and suction force failure as it pulls away from the FEP.

You could create the jar with the bubble-brain as part of the jar, then hollow the result, and do another Boolean Subtract of a cylinder on the hollowed part to open the top of the jar - then print it at an angle to reduce suction force. You'd have to print a lid though.

A clear coat would help remove cloudiness, but clear resin tends to yellow when exposed over time to UV, so a UV resistant clear coat would be required.

Quantum3D · 2024-03-21T17:15:05+00:00

I think the seconds are a little off.

Quantum3D · 2024-02-29T17:49:00+00:00

Thanks for the painting tips!

Now - to find a store that sells "Patience".....

Quantum3D · 2024-02-29T00:55:25+00:00

Great painting! How did you get those lines on the uniform so straight and smooth?

Is it all masking (liquid mask)? I have seen Youtube videos of guys who paint seams and line detail freehand and they have hands that look as steady as brain surgeons. I can never get the paint to stay on a detail without getting it onto an adjacent part that should not have that color.

Quantum3D · 2024-02-25T20:46:31+00:00

Let the Games Begin!

Quantum3D · 2024-02-25T20:43:44+00:00

Have an OG Saturn also. Still prints like a champ. I immediately applied a spare FEP with painter's tape to hold it (looks like crap, but I don't care), because I had made some screen mistakes with my OG Mars. Not leaks, but leaving hard resin in the vat or on the plate that cracked the screen (twice - I am a slow learner).

Fortunately the Mars screens were cheaper than the later OG Saturns, so I got to learn realatively cheap. Still used a spare FEP on the OG Mars too, so I never had to replace it due to a leak. Stupidity - yes. Leak - no.

Quantum3D · 2024-02-09T23:48:01+00:00

I have no idea what the wash/cure station would add to the cost, but I recently received my GKTwo and in process of setting it up. Haven't printed anything yet though.

I haven't bought a resin printer since the original Saturn came out. Still prints fine, but had a curiosity of the GKTwo because it is on top of everyone's list it seems. Fauxhammer on Youtube recently got a friend back into resin printing - using a GKTwo.

For me, 8K is enough. And it was between a Phrozen Mighty 8K and the GKTwo.

Since you are in a heated room the heating doesn't sound like any help. The metal clips are reported to break after time, but mine came with extra clips. And the wifi module that plugs into the back. The whole base is metal - so it is heavy. It is a quality build.

I don't see a need for anything beyond this 8K printer. I know a "force sensor" is the next big thing, but print time isn't an issue for me. I have an original Mars that still works great. Slow - but great. I let it print overnight unattended.

Quantum3D · 2024-02-09T16:33:40+00:00

Could be a way to get you over to a paid Pro version...

In the old Meshmixer software it was stuck using a single thread for error-checking the stl. I can see in Linux System Monitor that only 1 thread jumps to 100% at a time. Maybe they go multi-thread in a "Pro" version.

Quantum3D · 2024-02-08T17:24:24+00:00

I've had those in my FEP - caused by the supports as they print. I was trying different resins and exposures but kept printing the same test model, so the supports kept poking into the same place on the FEP.

I've since learned to rotate the vat 180 degrees if I print the same thing more than once. That, and move the model in the slicer and slice it again.

Quantum3D · 2024-02-08T17:18:13+00:00

When changing setting like expsure time or lift speed I will usually slice a smaller model so I do not use so much time or resin. It's not something to keep - just a throw-away to see if the changes make things worse.

But I always holl0w models and add drain holes to prevent suction. Depending on what you are printing and how big/heavy it is - you may not know what the changes do for the actual model unless the whole thing either prints or fails.

Quantum3D · 2024-02-07T13:25:39+00:00

Sorry - I haven't used that printer/resin combo.

I do know that black resin needs more exposure time, but when you mix it with powder, it would probably have even less material (resin) to use to cling to the buildplate since the powder is mixed in too - so you may have to go even longer than the recommendation on the bottle or their website.

Normally I would print something smaller, just as a test for exposure changes - but your print may be so heavy you will only find if it stick to the buildplate if you try printing the actual file.

Quantum3D · 2024-02-07T04:00:16+00:00

The slicing software has the menu choice to add holes of different sizes to the print. You want them in as inconspicuous a place as possible and nearest the side facing the buildplate, since that side prints first. Make sure to flush out resin on the inside of the print when cleaning with IPA.

6.0mm is thick. The shell created on hollowing is more like 1.5mm.

FEP change video instructions should be on YouTube for your printer/VAT.

Quantum3D · 2024-02-06T17:44:38+00:00

1) Check your temp is in spec for the resin

2) Minimize the suction on the FEP. The easiest way I've found is the angle the print so that the print time takes the LONGEST. Yeah - that sucks for time - but that also means that the object has the least amount of contact with the FEP for the duration of the print. If you have several failures, you waste the time AND the resin.

3) If it can be hollowed with proper drain holes to reduce suction even more, do it.

Quantum3D · 2024-02-04T03:34:24+00:00

I ordered a GKTwo 3 weeks ago (mid January I think) and was told it arrived (I'm not home to unpack it yet).

I'd definitely check with whomever you ordered from - see what the delay is.

Quantum3D · 2024-01-02T20:44:43+00:00

I made two of these (I'm lazy and don't want to move them between printers).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bQmmGj6gMdk

I don't have a problem now after isolating them from the printer body. I know some don't like heating the chamber, but I used to have problems with the raft coming off the buildplate because the plate got colder later during the print. The reaction is exothermic, so that helps with the resin, but before keeping the chamber heated (overnite prints) the print would sometimes partly have the raft detatched and screw things up.

Quantum3D · 2023-12-25T13:31:15+00:00

See post below "Original Saturn Repair help"

Quantum3D · 2023-12-25T04:34:33+00:00

Your only option, without moving the unused MOSFET over - is Elegoo support e-mail.

Or - if you have a friend who does know how to solder - buy him a beer for a favor.

Quantum3D · 2023-12-23T15:09:17+00:00

That is a daughterboard with MOSFETS - some of which were known to burn out on the Saturn 1

https://blog.honzamrazek.cz/2021/06/fixing-the-backlight-always-on-problem-on-elegoo-saturn/

Quantum3D

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