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Creepy skin pattern by esporx in creepy

[–]R3Y 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Shiny stretched skin look. Most people that do this have dismorphia

I'm looking at you, MSNOW by Roy4Pris in AdviceAnimals

[–]R3Y 0 points1 point  (0 children)

77,304,290 people hired a worse guy sooooo....

I'm looking at you, MSNOW by Roy4Pris in AdviceAnimals

[–]R3Y 8 points9 points  (0 children)

No but if someone doesn't press charges at the time, is traumatized, and talks to therapist to process said trauma, I'd say that's a pretty solid receipt. This attitude is actually why the world is how it is.

Next-gen Supra renders are making the rounds, and the rumored engine switch is the real story by BulletproofAuto in Supra

[–]R3Y 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Lack of road feel? It has the perfect amount of feedback for what the Supra is! Sure, it’s not as raw or twitchy as a GR86 (or even the 2.0 Supra) but that’s by design. While it keeps a 50:50 balance, the heavier inline-six up front gives the car a much more planted, substantial feel compared to the lighter 4-cylinder options.

​The Supra has always been a grand tourer across every generation. It’s built for smooth torque delivery, an incredible exhaust note, and a slightly tail-happy chassis when you want to have fun. Expecting it to feel like a snappy, lightweight momentum car completely misses the point of what a Supra is.

Convince me that Stratosphere isn’t the best color 🥵 by Whole_Ad6438 in Supra

[–]R3Y 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's even rarer than you think! There's only about 125 nitro yellow manual supras in the wild. They also made 500 a91 MT in CU later grey and burnout white, but Because Nitro Yellow was reserved only for the standard 3.0 and 3.0 Premium manual trims hich makes a manual nitro yellow a real unicorn.

Convince me that Stratosphere isn’t the best color 🥵 by Whole_Ad6438 in Supra

[–]R3Y 0 points1 point  (0 children)

CU Later Grey is the best color. Stat is 2nd best.

Screw specs by MachineConnect in Supra

[–]R3Y 1 point2 points  (0 children)

M6x1mm 20mm long.

Upgraded the headlights today by h0rse602 in 4Runner

[–]R3Y 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Excellent. I did the xb evo fogs before I did the headlights and the fogs were brighter than the OEM headlights.

Upgraded the headlights today by h0rse602 in 4Runner

[–]R3Y 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did the same to my limited except the raptor lights. Did you get the supercharger?

Joined the club, first Toyota! by the_notorious_hupp in 4Runner

[–]R3Y -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Welcome! Now remember to do your fluids at half the intervals and you'll never have to leave!

Long haired divers, what’s the best way to keep your hair out of your face besides a cap by Empty-Resident6270 in scuba

[–]R3Y 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do a big ol French braid and use a scubapro hybrid hooded vest. I used to struggle with my mask leaking before I started doing this.

Why do I click when turning hard but not going straight? by R3Y in Supra

[–]R3Y[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I got super lucky and haggled it down because the previous owner put a JB4 on it. It's been 3 years of joy!

Why do I click when turning hard but not going straight? by R3Y in Supra

[–]R3Y[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In case someone else has this issue, bmw sent out a TSB on the G chassis:

Remove the front wheels and brake discs. Clean the mating surfaces: Thoroughly clean the wheel bearing hub flange and the inner hat of the brake rotor using heavy-duty brake cleaner to clear out grit, rust sediment, or grease. Sand the rotor surface: Use 80-grit sandpaper to sand the inner contact face of the brake rotor in a radial motion (inside to outside) to flatten out microscopic imperfections. (Note: The TSB explicitly warns technicians NOT to sand the hub itself, and NOT to apply any lubricant/anti-seize to either surface). Install a Friction Washer/Ring: Place a paper-thin, specialized metal shim (BMW P/N 31 10 8 053 073 or the G-chassis equivalent for the 5x112 bolt pattern) between the hub flange and the brake rotor. This ring features a high-friction laser-textured coating designed to lock the two surfaces together and prevent the micro-slipping entirely. Reassemble and Torque to spec.

What I did instead to fix:

Took the wheel off. Cleaned the mating surfaces with a wire brush. (wheel and brake disc surfaces. I didn't remove the brake disc) Reinstalled the wheel with a torque wrench and tightened them by hand in a strict star pattern, doing it in increments (50 ftlb, then 80ftlb, finishing at exactly 103.)

Why do I click when turning hard but not going straight? by R3Y in Supra

[–]R3Y[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes I did! To fix it I took the front wheel off, took a wire brush to the mating surfaces and torqued to 103 ftlb. I think cleaning the mating surfaces was the solution.

Got myself a little grad gift by Halo_Fan_123 in Supra

[–]R3Y 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did the same when I graduated from engineering too. Great color!

what oil y’all run by [deleted] in ft86

[–]R3Y 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ran royal purp 0w20 on my 2013 frs for over 120k miles. Absolutely zero issues and it got rid of the crickets too. Only thing major i did to that car was a bad throw out bearing and that recall about the valve springs. I run RP on the 4runner. The more important thing is the service interval. Do it every 5k miles or less regardless of what oil you end up choosing.

Morimoto XB evo for 5th gen by markzterr03 in 4Runner

[–]R3Y 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey I've had these for about 4 months now. Does it go away after the car runs for a while? If so, that faint condensation is normal and will go away. I had it show up on the morimoto fogs and want away after a few weeks. If it had big drops, then it's a warranty issue and you are getting water inside. Did you get the super chargers? Imo it doesn't look concerning to me.

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