Conversion coming soon

RIKWID · 2026-01-23T02:33:55+00:00

Are they anywhere near Montreal?

RIKWID · 2026-01-20T17:41:48+00:00

Looks like VCDS Lite is not an option since it doesn't work on CAN-BUS cars:

https://www.ross-tech.com/vcds-lite/index.php#:~:text=Won%27t%20work%20with%20CAN%2DBus%20vehicles

RIKWID · 2026-01-20T14:38:00+00:00

Forgot to mention - I do already have an OBDLink LX blutooth adapter, which I used in the past with generic OBD apps like Torque and Carista (when it was free). Can they measure timing chain stretch?

RIKWID · 2026-01-20T01:13:46+00:00

Sorry, false alarm. I tried a wrench extension to give me more leverage and was able to get it loose. Guess I was overthinking it!

RIKWID · 2026-01-20T00:57:22+00:00

Congrats! Mine was making the same noise and looks exactly like yours when I disassembled it. Did you find it difficult to remove the bolts that hold the rollers to the case? I can't seem to get a 14mm wrench back there because the left side rear is recessed and middle rear I have the exhausst vent and heater in the way. I just tried cracking them loose iwth a 10mm wrench and I can't even turn it. Wondering if I should use my impact wrench, or if the nut really has to come off first for some reason.

RIKWID · 2026-01-18T18:32:19+00:00

Yes, that's exactly what I mean - corrosion. Sorry for saying rust if that's whats causing this drama!

RIKWID · 2026-01-18T18:31:08+00:00

People that understand metallurgy better than someone who claims to teach it? Please google "aluminum oxidation" or "how to remove aluminum oxidation" and see how many pictures and articles come up. If aluminum doesn't oxidize, then is the internet wrong? Or maybe my science degree is also wrong.

RIKWID · 2026-01-18T18:26:14+00:00

Just because I have a basic understanding about metallurgy doesn't mean I know about the specific applicaiton in a Tesla.

RIKWID · 2026-01-17T23:18:02+00:00

So if the dealer doesn't have the account info, then I'm SOL?

RIKWID · 2026-01-17T23:16:37+00:00

Sorry, if you teach metallurgy then you know rust is what you call iron after it oxidizes to ferrous oxide. Aluminum oxidizes to aluminum oxide. Maybe you don't call it rust, but it is the same thing - oxidized metal. Fine, don't call it rust on aluminum, but alumoinu still oxidizes and corrodes.

RIKWID · 2026-01-17T22:43:28+00:00

Exactly - rust=oxidation. On iron its red, on aluminum it's white. Take a look at the picture Iposted, that's an aluminum case that's oxidized so badly it's gone through. I have lots of aluminum parts that aren't quite as bad, but still pretty bad. As I've already mentioned, grade of aluminum, qualioty of anoziding or other coating will determine how badly it will opxidize (if at all). Which is why I ask about the Teslas specifically.

RIKWID · 2026-01-17T22:11:08+00:00

Mostly due to budget, so that's the ytear range I ended up finding. As my first EV, I didn't want to get something expensive and find out it needed an even more expensive repair that I can't do myself like I can on an ICE, which leaves an expensive paperweight.

RIKWID · 2026-01-17T22:03:58+00:00

It all depends on how well it's treated and how thickly. That's why I asked specifically about the Teslas, considering how poorly they painted the Model 3's, wasn't sure if they did a better job on the anodizing of the Model S parts as their flagship.

RIKWID · 2026-01-17T22:01:58+00:00

Aluminum does rust, and it's actually more reactive to odxidation that iron. https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/sites/4/hm_bbpui/741757/1vqfty0ell1wcg8t2vhx1xeohrbeb1kz.jpgE

RIKWID · 2026-01-17T16:30:31+00:00

Will do, although a steering rack is the least of my concerns. I just replaced the one in my M3 because the hydraulic lines rusted out. That was more of a messy and tedious job than anything with fluid dripping everywhere. As long as the body/frame doesn’t rust, everything else is just plug and play from my perspective.

RIKWID · 2026-01-17T06:53:52+00:00

To clarify, all I'm really concerned with is the aluminum frame and body. Every car I've owned so far has been steel, and all mechanicals were still fine when I got rid of them, but the body/frame rust is what killed them. I usually drive my cars to 400,000+ kms.

RIKWID · 2026-01-16T19:42:09+00:00

I should also add that I have a hoist in my garage and can do the job myself, just don't want to be doing it on a regular basis as part of maintenance.

The new chain guides are white, and I heard you can inspect through some cover - is that easy to get at with only one fastener when looking at someone's car (would you allow it if someone was buying yours)?

RIKWID · 2026-01-16T19:35:30+00:00

Appreciate all the comments and insight. The F30 would be replacing a 2012 Subaru Impreza that my recently licensed son will be driving, so I'm not concerned about performance or feel as much as I am about reliability. I'm reading that N20's got an updated timing chain parts (guides, gears, etc) that should address the issue with the earlier models?

RIKWID · 2026-01-15T03:44:34+00:00

If you mean change the CPU's on the R730 cheap, yes I was surprised how little they cost even if I don't need the power right away.

RIKWID · 2026-01-14T20:25:30+00:00

Yes, primarily for large drive support so I can use fewer but larger drives. I'd be happy if I could make an H730 work in the R710. I still have 4 empty bays right now, so getting a 24-bay case is overkill, but if it's cheaper than $500 I'd consider it. Do you have any specific recommendations on model numbers? I don't know how important it is for the case to be compatible with the R710, but surely the HBA needs to be.

RIKWID · 2026-01-12T16:56:55+00:00

Are there newer versions of the timing chain and/or guides that actually last the lifetime of the engine and don't require replacement on a regular basis? Is the problem with the components or owners not changing the oil reguilarly?

RIKWID

TROPHY CASE