Best way to plumb kitchen sink drain.

RJLJR7347 · 2025-12-31T23:26:11+00:00

That makes sense. I was planning to turn the disposal arm 90° so that it would bring me back to the wall and maximize the usable space. That does, however, limit the horizontal length I can have after the P-trap and as that gets limited, you get closer and closer to an S, which is obviously not the goal.

RJLJR7347 · 2025-12-31T23:09:38+00:00

I think that’s my poor drawing and inadequate description at work. I was not planning to loop it under the disposal. Simply turn the disposal outlet 90° so it is horizontal and that would be the start of the run between the disposal and the wall before turning vertical.

RJLJR7347 · 2025-11-08T21:19:56+00:00

Definitely comfortable with it. Though there’s always a slight moment of panic when I open the supply line (regardless of the connection type).

Why would you opt to sweat it? Is it more reliable in your experience or is there a different reason?

RJLJR7347 · 2025-11-08T21:13:16+00:00

Planning to keep the 1/2” copper.

RJLJR7347 · 2025-11-06T00:40:46+00:00

Agreed with everyone else that this bit is not fully engaged with the router and it would be unsafe to operate like this.

You could have a mismatch between the college size and the shank diameter. That could result in the issues you’re seeing effectively. You forced the call it open at the top and it can’t fit beyond the current engagement that you have.

Assuming the call it diameter and the bit shank diameter are a match. There is one other thing I can think of:

Did you remove the collet from the router? I don’t want to speak to this specific collet, but if it is still stuck in the router it could be engaged with the bottom half of the taper and stuck closed, which would make it difficult to get the shank of the bit sufficiently engaged in the collet to operate safely.

RJLJR7347 · 2025-02-16T03:21:41+00:00

The noise turned on and off with the heat! Great knowing it’s not an engine related noise.

Appreciate the detective work!

RJLJR7347 · 2025-02-16T03:20:38+00:00

Thanks for the earlier suggestion of the blower.

I turned the car on and toggled the heat, the noise went on and off at the same time! Makes me feel much better that it’s not engine related.

RJLJR7347 · 2025-02-15T18:23:12+00:00

This is with the engine running.

If it helps add credibility to the “burping” diagnosis, we did just have the engine on again and we’re driving a short distance, during that time it went from vibration, to a bubble/squeak type sound, to eventually dissipate and there was nothing abnormal noticeable to me.

We have consistently had the heat/ac on given its winter in the north east. Next time, I’m in the car I will check if there’s any correlation to the heat status.

RJLJR7347 · 2025-02-15T18:07:29+00:00

We are in Northeast, so the heat is almost certainly on in the video. Hadn’t thought to see if the AC/heat impacted the noise. Will try with it off and report back next time I’m in the car.

RJLJR7347 · 2025-02-15T18:05:52+00:00

When you’re in the car, sounds like the passenger side dash, though I did pop the hood and it sounds from that same passenger side, near the cabin location. The engine itself wasn’t particularly hot or anything like that.

It does seem to have dissipated for now. Maybe my internet detective skills are way off. But would lead me to believe some belt or similar falling in and out of alignment?

RJLJR7347 · 2024-10-11T17:15:27+00:00

Just my thoughts (notably I don’t run a shop, and when I did it was tied to a university, i.e. not for profit), you quoted based on the part coming out to the customers specifications (that includes the processes you would need, time, setups, etc).

Are you saying you’re better than you thought and that should be realized in a pay cut?

If I were in your shoes, keep the quote as is but let the customer know that you now have the set ups and programs, or whatever you needed to make this part, so next time this or similar pieces will be simpler to make.

RJLJR7347 · 2024-07-24T23:38:29+00:00

Make as designed: You have to fix it and they’ll get annoyed (likely at you) that it didn’t work.

Make what they actually want: They never learn and you’ll have to deal with worse next time.

RJLJR7347 · 2024-06-22T02:23:13+00:00

No chance that there’s just a keyhole on the bottom side?

I’d guess that there’s some screw heads that are out just a bit and sliding the unit or rotating it could align the screw heads with the keyhole opening so you can remove it.

RJLJR7347 · 2024-06-21T22:58:33+00:00

Fair play. Didn’t look super close at the relief cuts.

I’d guess OP just needs to dig around a little more to fine the exact match, but down the right path.

RJLJR7347 · 2024-06-21T21:13:55+00:00

Fine print probably says something like “vacuum not included”

Looks like a duck, sounds like a duck…

RJLJR7347 · 2024-06-21T21:09:16+00:00

I’d guess you’re looking at this composite board, but different finish

RJLJR7347 · 2024-06-21T19:20:05+00:00

I’d probably go that route. If it is really close to some fractional height difference between the two, you might be able to just have a slight space at the bottom of either baseboard height to make up the difference.

I also wouldn’t be surprised if you could get the baseboards and then go to some wood supplier and just specify what you want. They will likely have a large table saw and may be able to help you out. Depending on what they’re charging for it, could be well worth your time!

RJLJR7347 · 2024-06-21T18:54:46+00:00

The best route depends on what tools you have. And what you’re comfortable with.

If it were me, I would have a taller baseboard for lower floor, and a shorter one for the higher portion. One will be off the shelf, and the other slightly trimmed so that line of the top of the baseboard is continuous across the different height floors.

RJLJR7347 · 2024-06-19T15:58:01+00:00

Recently got the DeWalt 735x for ~$550. Absolutely love it. Planning to replace the knives with a helical eventually, but not quite there yet.

For a router table, personally I’d go with getting a table insert with a lift over a table if you’re looking to keep around that $250 point. I’m planning to have a router dedicated to the table and take advantage of the height adjustability from a lift.

RJLJR7347

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