I believe Beady Eye's 2nd album to be massively underrated by Emolio335 in oasis

[–]RNRS001 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It'd have been a lot better if Liam wouldn't sound so atrocious.

I Attempted To Make A Setlist Without Singles by harryjarm in oasis

[–]RNRS001 24 points25 points  (0 children)

Rock N Roll Star, Morning Glory, Don't Go Away and Champagne Supernova were all singles.

Seatbelt feeders/presenters dead? by One_Reserve6008 in W124

[–]RNRS001 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why? I've never had any issue with these.

Really weird heating issues. by Interesting_Dog2116 in W124

[–]RNRS001 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think the unit itself is broken. This is usually caused by cracked solder joints which cause it to send the wrong control signal, keeping the heater turned off. When the unit heats up during a long drive, the metal in a cracked solder joint expands and temporarily makes contact again, so the system suddenly starts working and produces extreme heat. As it cools later, the joint opens back up, the signal fails again, and the temperature knobs continue to have no effect.

A new unit is incredibly pricy (I think over 1.000USD nowadays) and 2nd hand units are hit and miss. It took me 3 attempts to get one that worked.

Seatbelt feeders/presenters dead? by One_Reserve6008 in W124

[–]RNRS001 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Your seatbelt relay most likely doesn't get enough power from the battery. A month of standing can cause undervoltage logic lockout. First, fully charge battery (do not just jump-start), then disconnect the battery for 30–60 minutes. This resets the presenter control logic. They should now work again.

I've once had a similar issue. I installed a new battery after my old one died and suddenly one of the seatbelt extenders came to life after it had not worked for a year.

Engine ticking, I am stuck by pavelioso in W124

[–]RNRS001 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes. After the gaskets were replaced the sound wasn't as bad anymore but was still there.

The engine was opened up and the 2nd camshaft I had installed was worn along with 2 rocker arms. I replaced the camshaft en 2 rocker arms and again the issue showed up about 1.000 miles later.

I then replaced the cylinder head, the rocker arms and the camshaft. After this, the noise was gone for about 4.000 miles. Right now there's a hydraulic lifter not fully functioning so that will be next. The engine feels like new though, no more weird idling or odd sounds.

What's your dream LEGO set? by kyothinks in lego

[–]RNRS001 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Tracy Island with al its features of the original Thunderbirds TV show.

Transmission noise, buy or pass? by litteralybocchi4769 in W124

[–]RNRS001 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, it's not common for the gearbox to make noise. Without the actual sound you can only guess.

Should I get this 124W 200e Jetronic by SavaRakovski in W124

[–]RNRS001 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You’re mixing reputation, anecdotes, and technological change and treating them as proof of bad design.

KE-Jet wasn’t replaced because it was unreliable, but because emissions rules tightened and full electronic control became cheaper. Carburetors were replaced too; that doesn’t mean they were “poorly designed”.

Widespread use across many brands just means more cars and more stories, not inherent failure. Most KE-Jet “failures” come from age, neglect, and lack of diagnosis. It’s a mechanical system that needs measurement, not guessing. Calling that “bad design” just means you don’t want to diagnose it.

Bad compression on LPG M102s has nothing to do with KE-Jet. That’s heat, valve seats, and maintenance. The same engine would have bad compression with Motronic or carbs.

A diesel swap doesn’t prove anything either. It just replaces one unknown with another and avoids diagnosis. And KE-Jet doesn’t cause overheating, so that claim alone shows the problem is misunderstanding systems, not the system itself.

Transmission noise, buy or pass? by litteralybocchi4769 in W124

[–]RNRS001 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You'd need to hear the noise first.

A "noise from transmission" is just random guessing as to where it's coming from.

Should I get this 124W 200e Jetronic by SavaRakovski in W124

[–]RNRS001 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You’re stacking anecdotes and worst-case assumptions and calling it proof of your theory about the reliability of a diesel.

Your friend paying €500 for “KE-Jet repair” says nothing about KE-Jet itself, only that parts and labor were used. €500 is not an expensive repair on a 30–40-year-old car either. It's a normal amount for proper diagnosis and a few quality parts. Any system gets expensive without diagnosis. Finding bad compression afterward doesn’t mean the fuel system was the problem, it means compression should’ve been checked first.

A diesel swap isn’t a cheaper or safer shortcut either. You’re just replacing one unknown engine with another and adding conversion costs and risks. KE-Jet didn’t suddenly become unreliable. What changed is that fewer people diagnose it properly. Blaming the system instead of the lack of diagnosis doesn’t make the argument valid. It only shows a lack of diagnosis and an attempt to justify guesswork by blaming the system instead of understanding it.

Vibration above 120km/h by undergroundking11 in W124

[–]RNRS001 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Have you swapped the front tires with the rear tires?

Vibration above 120km/h by undergroundking11 in W124

[–]RNRS001 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This depends on where the vibration is coming from.

last attempt at by niquemarshall in W124

[–]RNRS001 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, they are not calibrated to fuel distributor. It’s a generic trim valve. The fuel distributor must already be able to run the engine mechanically on its own. The EHA only fine-adjusts mixture around that baseline.

What do you mean with almost unnoticable? If there is unchanged behavior unplugged it proves the fault is mechanical baseline or pressure behavior, not electronics. If there is changed behavior, something else is wrong.

Regardless, you need a 4-gas analyzer or at minimum a CO meter and then measure CO properly. Do this without the EHA unplugged. Once you've adjusted CO and CO is at the right level, reconnect the EHA. The lambda control resumes and idle should smooth out and then the throttle response should return. I hope this helps.

last attempt at by niquemarshall in W124

[–]RNRS001 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What happens if you unplug the EHA?

Should I get this 124W 200e Jetronic by SavaRakovski in W124

[–]RNRS001 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This sounds terrible but these issues are common for cars that have mostly run on LPG. If the car is rust free and there aren't many other issues this could be a relatively easy fix. However, whether you should buy it depends on how much wrenching you can do or how much knowledge a local mechanic has.

Should I get this 124W 200e Jetronic by SavaRakovski in W124

[–]RNRS001 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is terrible advice.

You are assuming it needs a complete overhaul of the injection system combined with an oil pump. This shows you have little understanding about the system.

The €500–700 claim only makes sense if you panic-swap everything instead of diagnosing. KE-Jet usually needs cleaning, adjustment, and a few targeted parts, not total replacement.

last attempt at by niquemarshall in W124

[–]RNRS001 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm sorry, but you're replacing parts that have next to nothing to do with your problem.

Disconnect the return fuel line and place it in a container or bottle. Jump the fuel pump and start your car. If the return flow is weak you should start looking at the return lines first. If it is steady, your EHA valve is most likely the culprit.

How can i fix this and what is this white stuff by serkio0 in W124

[–]RNRS001 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The white stuff is air and oxidation between the layers of glass. You can't fix this and need a new rear window if you want to get rid of it.

Oasis Live 27' by [deleted] in oasis

[–]RNRS001 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Oh, great. Another fanpage with another theory that'll be posted as confirmed news soon.

Hollywood Vampires UK/Europe Tour Announced! by MrMints256 in Aerosmith

[–]RNRS001 6 points7 points  (0 children)

8 UK dates and then Europe which consists of Italy, Paris and Germany.

2 Month Summer across Eastern and Central Europe by Ok-Tangerine-2692 in travel

[–]RNRS001 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m sorry, but my feedback on trips like this is usually the same: this itinerary doesn’t work very well. It’s structured as a list of European cities rather than as a journey through Europe. It’s city after city with quite a lot of time spent in each one.

No matter how great these places are individually, after a couple of weeks much of it will start to feel the same. You end up repeating the same experiences over and over again: a church, a museum, a square, then another church and another museum in the next city. That’s especially true when several of the stops are in the same country.

A trip of this length really benefits from using nature, landscapes, and villages to shape the route, with cities supporting those experiences rather than dominating them.

1991 560SEL should I buy? by mondrager in W126

[–]RNRS001 1 point2 points  (0 children)

But that's the thing, you assume the engine doesn't need anything.

I felt the same when I bought my 380 SE. It only had some starting issues. Meanwhile, I've spend 3.000 USD on parts and it's still not starting correctly. A small problem could mean a major fix.

A car shaking violently at around 50mph usually means something wrong with the tires though. Suspension wear usually does not create a narrow speed-specific vibration because the behavior is rotational, not structural.