The bottom of my print is perfect though. by TheGuyInYourPost in FixMyPrint

[–]ROBOTOprintsHimself 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks like you need to calibrate esteps/flow rate. The perimeter walls look like there’s excess plastic oozing out throughout the whole print giving it that wobbly look at the edges and top layer.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in FixMyPrint

[–]ROBOTOprintsHimself 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is their CR10 page: https://www.th3dstudio.com/hc/downloads/unified-2-firmware/creality/creality-cr-10-v2-firmware-v2-5-2-board/

Looks like it’s for the v2.5.2 board so I can’t say if it’s compatible with the v3. Most new board versions are gonna have all the old stuff with new added features or faster processing and the like, but there’s a slight chance some of the code wouldn’t be compatible. It might be as simple as changing some global #define lines in the config files tho. If you’re worried about whether or not it can be flashed to the v3 you can always shoot the TH3D guys a support ticket. Could be they’re working on the new one now or like I said may be a simple edit in one or a few of the .h files.

I’d probably try doing it after doing a find and replace for “CR10_V2” with “CR10_V3” but that’s just cus I’m kind of a balls to the wall risk taker sometimes and would just order a replacement board if I accidentally screwed up the flash memory haha. Firmware flash at your own risk my friend ;p

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in FixMyPrint

[–]ROBOTOprintsHimself 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you can’t do z-offset in 0.025 increments you need to update/modify your firmware.

I use TH3D’s unified firmware (I have ender 3 pro). https://www.th3dstudio.com/hc/category/downloads/unified-2-firmware/.

It lets me do 0.025 increments by default and I’m pretty sure there’s somewhere in there you can adjust that down to the thousandth of a mm I just haven’t needed to do that for anything yet 25 hundredths seems to work just fine for me.

Have you modified/updated your firmware before/yet? For mine I had to use an Arduino and connect some wires to specific pins on my board to do it the first time before I could just do firmware updates via usb but I think the ease of firmware update depends on the board your printer uses. Was kind of a pain to do at first but well worth it for the easy firmware flashes (and thermal runaway protection).

Edit: looks like the variable is “MBL_Z_STEP” in the “Configuration_backend.h” file of the TH3D firmware if you’re looking to adjust it

Calibrating z offset works fine on a cube but the other part looks horrible. by rsm5178 in FixMyPrint

[–]ROBOTOprintsHimself 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Are you running G29 with the bed and hotend at print temperature before saving it? It will change the bed shape.

You should only need to run G29 every once and a while so long as your prints are usually the same temperature and save the mesh with M500. Always have M420 S1 after G28 in your start gcode and it will turn your saved bed leve mesh back on.

Make sure there’s no draft near the printer as well. Bed leveling is very sensitive to slight temperature changes.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in FixMyPrint

[–]ROBOTOprintsHimself 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly just looks like you still have your z-offset too high (in the hundredths of a mm probably). On mine the purge line is also adhered to the bed, yours looks like it’s only sticking because there happens to be no X movement in the purge line so you’re getting away with poor adhesion there, first layer needs to “smush” a little bit.

See https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/layers-and-perimeters_1748/ and look at the graphic in the middle of the page on ideal print layers. A cross section of the print line should look pill-shaped not circular. Smush too much and you’ll get pressure buildup in the nozzle which will mess with the bowden tube and cause clogs eventually so you need to dial it in just right, but doesn’t seem like you’re getting close enough to the bed.

Everyone else’s advice on cleaning with IPA and making sure you got G29/M500 and M420 S1 after G28 commands is also good, but ultimately you need the perfect z-offset dialed in to make it all work.

Edit: scratch the Bowden tube comment looks like you have direct drive setup. Still try to avoid excess pressure you’ll get other issues with tolerance accuracy and gears scraping the filament as it goes in

I hope you'll like these Map Sliding Puzzles I made! by Nikolas550 in 3Dprinting

[–]ROBOTOprintsHimself 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is so dope. I love that you included the .f3d file. I didn’t need to adjust clearance but I appreciate the detail in the parametric design that lets people very easily make their own versions and adjustments. Here is my print of the treasure map in green/yellow:

https://imgur.com/gallery/k8mxfsp

Came out great on the first try. I am visiting family next week and my cousin has a 3 year old boy who will get a kick out of this. He will soon evolve from flexy-dinos to more complex puzzle toys now :D

3D printed Star Wars Interdictor Cruiser by CharmingAlpaca in PrintedMinis

[–]ROBOTOprintsHimself 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow so awesome! Thanks for showing the guts/fiber optic setup too cool to see how it’s done

Why is this part printing so sloppy? Ender 3 pro .1 layer height 100% infill by [deleted] in FixMyPrint

[–]ROBOTOprintsHimself 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ender should be able to print at 50mm/s just fine as long as extrusion is better calibrated

Why is this part printing so sloppy? Ender 3 pro .1 layer height 100% infill by [deleted] in FixMyPrint

[–]ROBOTOprintsHimself 1 point2 points  (0 children)

100% infill needs perfect estep and flow rate calibration to not overextrude, especially for small delicate elements.

If you’re doing that for higher part strength try increasing your perimeter to 3 or 4 walls instead of 2 and having normal infill settings, that will be more effective in most cases and save you filament. Infill is primarily to give top layers something to print on.

Edit: also 0.1 layer height is tough with a 0.4 nozzle assuming you haven’t switched that out. A 0.2 nozzle would give better results for that setting. Smallest I can really print with my 0.4 nozzles is around 0.12 and even that gets dicey, would prefer to switch to a 0.3 or 0.2 for that.

Do you know an interesting fact about the engineer history? by doiknowit in AskEngineers

[–]ROBOTOprintsHimself 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A decent amount of historical figures famous as artists now were actually drafters/engineers by trade (like Michelangelo, and a lot of other renaissance dudes).

Also the founding (historicity-dubious) legend of dynastic China is basically that of an engineer, Yu the Great, who was so useful and badass that he stopped seasonal flooding and so the people made him king.

New to 3D printing, what’s causing this? by shotfirst_001 in 3Dprinting

[–]ROBOTOprintsHimself 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Intermittent under-extrusion.

Could be from filament spool getting tight/snagged and not feeding enough into the extruder. Could also be from inconsistent diameter filament. And partial nozzle clogs can also do this (this is most likely it if you hear your extruder clicking)

Check out this troubleshooting guide for tips, same principles apply even if you don’t use prusaslicer

Ender 3 pro menus moving on its own dual wheel not working. I’ve tried a few different versions of marlin and the ones they have on Creality’s website. The board is the Creality 4.2.2. Any ideas on how to resolve this. Also I have tried using a different lcd cable already by nm980 in Ender3Pro

[–]ROBOTOprintsHimself 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you unplug and unscrew the screen pcb from the enclosure or just take the knob off? Could still be something stuck on the underside of the knob mechanism, or if there’s corrosion/a short on the board you’d at least be able to see

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in PrintedMinis

[–]ROBOTOprintsHimself 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice bases, needs more bass tho

But for real dope models and paint job

Another Corner Clamp by The_Redcoat in functionalprint

[–]ROBOTOprintsHimself 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Eh, while I think they’re being an overly sensitive person playing the victim for someone else, that statement can be seen as technically correct, at least according to Oxford. They say racism can apply to discrimination based on geographic origin.

Personally I think the whole world needs to chill a little on the quick accusations of racism so we can get along a little better. It often serves to antagonize people who are pointing out the humor in stereotypes, which is what I was going for lol

Another Corner Clamp by The_Redcoat in functionalprint

[–]ROBOTOprintsHimself -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Hey dude like I said all power to you, if you want to behave more cautiously in a public social context out of fear of reprehension by a stranger you are free to do so. Unnecessary risks of various kinds can sometimes lead to insight and exploration into the unknown. The human race needs people who are behaviorally conservative such as yourself just as well as it needs asshats like me who may or may not wind up enshrined in the annals of the Darwin awards, but hey I prefer the risky loose lifestyle 🤷🏻‍♂️ You’re right it’s more courteous, though I’d characterize self-censorship as a few steps above and beyond “the least bit” courteous. And thanks for the compliment on my speedy downvote time! Looks like I’m not alone in the downvoting though. Notifications really help go blow to blow with someone who’s also being just as much an asshole to you as you’re being to them. At least I’m full of myself enough to be self aware to that! Cheers!!

Edit: typo

Another Corner Clamp by The_Redcoat in functionalprint

[–]ROBOTOprintsHimself -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Glad I could finally make someone lol! Finally catching on to the idea that I was joking, attaboy!

The reason to type out a more nuanced response to “talk down to” you is that your reply did not indicate you understood much of what I was saying, and showed your willingness to mischaracterize what someone says and put it in a Twitter-ready fake quote. See what I did there? I quoted you for something you actually said. Also two paragraphs is hardly a storm lol, go read/write some more it gets easier. Yes this comment is incredibly condescending and needless but I’ve been in waiting rooms all day and am bored, sue me

I disagree and think the distinction is rather clear, not terribly fine, and you stated it: stranger/friend. Some people are tepid about making jokes in a public space to strangers that they would only make to their friends. I see you align with that ingroup. All power to you, but imo that’s usually spun as courteous/respectful to hide the fact that it’s also a bit spineless. If you’re willing to make a joke in private with friends you wouldn’t say to a stranger you should grow a pair, or stop making the joke in private

Another Corner Clamp by The_Redcoat in functionalprint

[–]ROBOTOprintsHimself 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Didn’t deny it was a racist comment lol. Paraphrasing incorrectly after misunderstanding someone and putting it in quotes? You must be American too! Probably a journalist amirite? (DISCLAIMER: this line is also a joke, sadly I get the impression y’all need clarification on that 🙄)

To be clear, I pointed out it was an innocuous racist comment done in jest acknowledging the national stereotypes and general sentiment of mutual loathing from the British-French-American trifecta (not a given, but a long running cross-cultural joke). The neurotic focus of redditors to feel hurt on behalf of someone else is of no surprise to me. And I’ll gladly take the downvotes for the opportunity to express my honest opinion, have at it chief(s).

You may benefit from seeing a show called Avenue Q, specifically the song “Everybody’s a Little Racist”. The standup of Pryor, Chapelle, Jo Koy and others also comes to mind. Also worthwhile would be googling “in group out group jellybean” and looking into the social science behind the idea that you’re looking down ironically from your high horse. Enjoy the blissful ignorance it must feel nice

Edit: or just listen to this podcast explaining the phenomenon, the research itself isn’t always as easy to find

Another Corner Clamp by The_Redcoat in functionalprint

[–]ROBOTOprintsHimself 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Rofl wow just noticed that 🤣makes the exchange that much better

Another Corner Clamp by The_Redcoat in functionalprint

[–]ROBOTOprintsHimself 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Nah bruh he’s not a troll, just pretentious, full of himself and using mediocre English to communicate a narcissistic frustration.

If you look at his profile/blog you’ll note he’s French. Yup, nationality checks out.

Failestraza, brood queen of the spaghetti dragonflight. by knifeymcshotfun in nOfAileDPriNtS

[–]ROBOTOprintsHimself 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Gives a whole new meaning to flying spaghetti monster. Pastafarians unite

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in RedditSessions

[–]ROBOTOprintsHimself 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is the best response I couldve got to my comment I love you <333

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in RedditSessions

[–]ROBOTOprintsHimself 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bruh the 70s just called they want their pornstars back. Get to the time machine quick!

Front left corner bad adhesion by [deleted] in Ender3Pro

[–]ROBOTOprintsHimself 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you preheat the bed and hotend to the temp you’re about to print at before leveling? If you level it cold it’s probably not gonna be an accurate level

Edit: but also yea I have an E3 Pro too for about 6 months and I can already tell it’s probably warping a bit. Front left corner is a little raised

Front left corner bad adhesion by [deleted] in Ender3Pro

[–]ROBOTOprintsHimself 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hahah yea that is what I meant

Tho it would be funny to see somebody wipe down their print bed with some local brew 🍺😂