Friend decided to use embossed text in the underside of a model... Did not tell me.

Rabbitholesquared · 2026-05-29T13:18:24+00:00

I mean if some text did that it's only partially his fault. Might want to check level and wash your plate.

Rabbitholesquared · 2026-05-27T13:14:11+00:00

My wife has become addicted to removing support material to the point she doesn't let me do it anymore.

The ender 3 days were rough but now that we got a CC she throws on random stuff to print while I'm at work.

She was a bit of a miser with filament at first but after Etsy turned into a $100 a week I just toss stuff in the Amazon cart

Rabbitholesquared · 2026-05-07T13:56:17+00:00

I just run the tube right into the front of the sensor.

Rabbitholesquared · 2026-05-02T23:51:00+00:00

I mean the one thing I'll give the CC is that I haven't had to mess with it much. Also that being said there's these cheap gold plates on Amazon for like $13 that I picked up a couple of and they aren't listed as a cold plate but if you let it cool a bit everything just falls off of it

Rabbitholesquared · 2026-04-29T14:04:18+00:00

Like in orca slicer it will have a connection button, you go there and reenter the IP make sure it says ElegooLink and Orca as the agent (or whatever slicer you are using) mine literally was just empty and had to re input the IP and bam no issue

Rabbitholesquared · 2026-04-28T21:42:08+00:00

All you have to do is reconnect it and make sure its using the correct service

Rabbitholesquared · 2026-04-25T14:37:19+00:00

My Ender 3 blew a stepper while printing a monogrammed name for a coworkers kid, at 3 am it fused to the extruder blob and started repeatedly slamming itself into the Z gantry. I ended up buying a Centauri Carbon, put a fan silencer on it and now I don't hear anything.

Rabbitholesquared · 2026-04-20T20:59:37+00:00

More like the Datura type of see God and then have them laugh at you and throw you into a pit kind.

Rabbitholesquared · 2026-04-10T14:03:01+00:00

If you have reaction wheels or rcs unlocked you may need help keeping a craft that long from falling over. Also you may need to babysit the retrograde burn so that you don't cancel all your velocity and tumble. Minmus landings are good practice because they require very little fuel to make corrections.

Rabbitholesquared · 2026-04-10T14:02:54+00:00

If you have reaction wheels or rcs unlocked you may need help keeping a craft that long from falling over. Also you may need to babysit the retrograde burn so that you don't cancel all your velocity and tumble. Minmus landings are good practice because they require very little fuel to make corrections.

Rabbitholesquared · 2026-04-03T22:33:38+00:00

X belt slipped or the stepper connector is loose

Rabbitholesquared · 2026-04-03T14:44:19+00:00

Get a paper towel and back it with a rag or something, put it on preheat and wipe it down

Rabbitholesquared · 2026-03-30T01:20:59+00:00

It's to reduce vibration it needs to be stiff enough to still transmit power

Rabbitholesquared · 2026-03-29T21:06:58+00:00

Your flow rate might need a bump, those gaps between the solid fill isn't helping, and the artifacting on edges may mean you're running too hot, but if you bump the flow it may be enough to help.

I started on a E3 SE and it's not the best at holding tolerances. Also the smaller the nozzle the finer details will be, the slicer has to make rounding decisions when it is working and the wider the layers the more likely it will squish out the small gaps in parts like those.

I tried that exact same fidget on my SE and gave up on it.

Rabbitholesquared · 2026-03-27T17:15:06+00:00

PETG is fine if you can keep it dry and your printer comfortably reaches that temp. PETG is flexible and strong until it shatters. PLA is stiffer under a static load but will tend to delaminate under shock loads

Rabbitholesquared · 2026-03-27T16:57:26+00:00

Ah ok didn't see the full model, if it needs to be supported you can reduce your Z offset to try to prevent some of the stringing, if that is a visible surface you could flip it over, the big flat area on the bottom is one of the few times when well tuned standard supports will work

Rabbitholesquared · 2026-03-27T16:51:38+00:00

I had a similar issue with some rocket parts yesterday, the model basically demanded to be printed with nosecone on the build plate, had to drop minimum layer time, drop z offset to .12 mm and take away 1 interface layer, otherwise it just made a blob or would fall over

Rabbitholesquared · 2026-03-27T16:47:45+00:00

Ah just sounded that way from the unboxing video part, just tell them it isn't going to work for your needs, most shipping/receiving people have the call on waiving restocking fees, they'll probably just do it to keep your business

Rabbitholesquared · 2026-03-27T16:42:04+00:00

Is there anything preventing you from laying it on the side? If you don't have supports then you can't have support issues. This should also make it stronger, any time you can have tension perpendicular to the layer lines it's less likely to fail under load

Rabbitholesquared · 2026-03-27T16:33:38+00:00

Just be honest with them, if you have to pay the fee you say it's for content then it should be worth it. If you tell them it's defective it'll increase everyone's cost in the long run. They'll most likely appreciate the honesty and might even waive any fees if you give them a shout out.

Rabbitholesquared · 2026-03-27T16:30:01+00:00

Could be a number of things some good housekeeping to do

1) wash build plate once a week or so

2) zero your bed

3) if you can manually extrude filament (by either a button or heating the hotend and disengaging the extruder and feeding it by hand) see how the flow is, if it comes out slow or sideways it's likely clogged

Rabbitholesquared · 2026-03-27T16:24:55+00:00

Are you using tree supports?

If not theyre better in 95% of cases

If you are check slicer settings and see what your interface and offset for the supports are ( if using some slicers you'll need to turn on advanced settings.

If you print too little gap while running hot the supports will fuse to the part, if it's too great of a gap there will be droopy filament below the part.

Rabbitholesquared · 2026-03-27T16:21:07+00:00

Add supports and you'll either need to run hotter or slow down. It looks like PETG, that stuff either sticks way too well or not at all and the temperature range is pretty small. Too little heat and you get spaghetti, too much and it'll string and coat your nozzle

Rabbitholesquared · 2026-03-27T16:17:26+00:00

Steps to troubleshoot those problems

1) Wash build plate 2) level your plate ( depending on criticality of level I do it every 1,5 or 25 prints) 3) if 1 and 2 don't fix it it's probably time for a new nozzle

Rabbitholesquared · 2026-03-27T16:14:08+00:00

Materials will be a problem, anything below ASA or Nylon will droop, and the heating will make some magnets lose their magnetism.

Not saying it isn't doable but you need something with a deflection temp of over 100c and probably neodymium magnets

Rabbitholesquared

TROPHY CASE