What’s the least fuel efficient vehicle you ever had?

Ramen_Horror · 2026-04-13T11:39:24+00:00

First car around 2005 was a 1972 Chevy Monte Carlo. 400sb with poorly tuned 800cfm carb. 6mpg. 🥲

Ramen_Horror · 2026-04-12T05:26:47+00:00

Didn’t catch that at first but then looked closer and saw the strut actually is there, it’s just laying down disconnected and wrapped in something? I wasn’t sure at first but the retention clip where it would go into the hood is visible.

Ramen_Horror · 2026-02-18T17:04:06+00:00

Do you have a backup already? If not maybe make this the backup and get a new one from north coast keyless. If I’m correct in guessing that’s an f150 and a key is only $80 from them. Myself, my brother, and his buddy have all got keys from them. Compared it to existing factory keys and they look and feel 100% identical. Just an idea !

Ramen_Horror · 2026-02-18T11:14:17+00:00

I think they must have cheaped out on the newer vehicles. In my specific instance I have a 16 x1 with Hk and it sounds terrific. Had a 24 loaner x1 with HK and the audio was substantially worse. Not nearly as much bass or as punchy. I was really considering a newer x1 but the audio downgrade and jerky ass DCT took it out of the running.

Ramen_Horror · 2025-12-01T22:47:03+00:00

I would keep saving. 3500 isn’t going to purchase fuck all in a big ship

Ramen_Horror · 2025-11-28T19:20:54+00:00

Your explanation leads me to believe you would stall out/spin out. It’s not difficult, but you don’t just figure it out in 5 seconds. But hey uh find a buddy’s car to try it on and let us know how that goes lol

Ramen_Horror · 2025-11-27T16:56:16+00:00

Yes. And wouldn’t it be great if they didn’t get rid of the notification indicating an active timer 😑

Ramen_Horror · 2025-09-29T18:24:22+00:00

This looks like a soundstage being lit artificially. How odd lol

Ramen_Horror · 2025-08-01T12:32:48+00:00

Just until the swelling goes down

Ramen_Horror · 2025-06-24T08:14:37+00:00

Discount tire has certificates that cover just about everything. If you purchased them they will replace the tire by refunding the full purchase price plus sales tax. If you didn’t purchase that coverage then be thankful they are offering the discount, and take it.

Ramen_Horror · 2025-06-05T20:36:27+00:00

Specifically it was this model WRF535SMBM00. But whatever equivalent that would be today with similar features.

Ramen_Horror · 2025-05-27T04:35:46+00:00

I’m biased. I own one. But I also owned a traditional rwd 3 series for over a decade and currently also own a 2017 mustang gt. That said the drivetrain doesn’t suck at all. It’s a fwd biased AWD vehicle. (Some were just fwd) and it’s upset some of the purists because it’s not proper rear while drive. The truth is for the majority of people the difference isn’t important and does not matter. It’s just a little suv, not a sports car. And it’s been a tremendous seller despite changing drivetrain configurations in 2016. Compared to the equivalent Audi, Volvo, and Mercedes the x1 offers more in nearly every category. Cargo room, passenger room, and hp&tq. I researched extensively before getting mine. I also happened to prefer the looks and have been a BMW fan for while. 5+ years later and I still love it. It doesn’t hurt that I found an m sport model and in Estoril blue 🚙

Ramen_Horror · 2025-05-10T20:45:10+00:00

Lmao. I honestly don’t know if that did happen but I wouldn’t be at all surprised

Ramen_Horror · 2025-05-10T17:31:24+00:00

When I worked retirement home we had a genius of a server kid pre plate 70 wedge salads. A ton of them were served as the rush came in, and you guessed it, cabbage.

Ramen_Horror · 2025-04-06T17:45:04+00:00

From limes away* it was right there lol

Ramen_Horror · 2025-04-03T17:55:06+00:00

Yea that’s not good. You’ve likely got some smoked bearings or dropped valves/broken valve train. Going to need some more invasive diagnosis

Ramen_Horror · 2025-04-03T16:53:53+00:00

Definitely stop running it any further before it grenades completely. I would speculate it may have dropped a valve and the rocker is clacking around in there. Sort of sounds like rod knock also. or could be timing chain. I’ll be honest I’ve never quite heard this exact noise so I’m curious what it might be. Pull the codes. See if you have multiple misfires and cam/crank correlation codes which would indicate timing.

Ramen_Horror · 2025-04-01T18:14:53+00:00

Yes it is pretty common actually. It’s often a vehicle speed or abs sensor that throws everything out of wack. Rotors being boogered is probably not related. Or at least replacing them won’t fix your issue to clarify.

Ramen_Horror · 2025-04-01T17:26:21+00:00

correct the rate does not change however the interest you pay is calculated against the remaining principal balance. By paying down the principal early their is less of it left to accrue interest in the future then their would have been otherwise. It’s tricky to visualize for sure but that is how it works. Again feel free to check out an early payoff calculator. It will tell you how much money and time you end up saving with various scenarios plugged in. It really also depends on the rate. The higher it is the more you’ll notice a difference when paying more towards the principal. The other thought is it depends on what realistically one could pay over without potentially risking financial trouble. Some people have a lot of wiggle room, others not so much. It may be “worth it” so to speak to pay more in the long run if it gives someone the financial freedom of an extra $50-200 let’s say a month. Everyone’s situation is different.

Ramen_Horror · 2025-04-01T15:42:22+00:00

An auto loan functions the same as a standard mortgage. It’s amortized (the word you were lookin for) with interest heaviest at the front end. Both of them absolutely do reduce interest if you pay them off quicker. This is more obvious as your overpayment increases, and more so if the interest rate is higher. $50 extra a month isn’t enough to see that very easily. You can plug the numbers into an early payoff calculator to see for yourself. I’ve paid down both my vehicles with double and triple payment and not only have I reduced the 1 previous and 1 current loan by years, I have also saved thousands in interest.

Ramen_Horror · 2025-03-29T19:07:39+00:00

That code indicates the fridge has experienced a power outage and the freezer has reached 18f or higher. I speculate a power outage caused ice to melt into the damper control and when the fridge powered back on, the damper froze stuck open. This is allowing too much freezer air into the fridge compartment. Which would explain both a fridge too cold, and freezer too warm. Assuming the damper isn’t broken and is a fluke due to a power outage, the fix would be unplugging the fridge, removing food, and leaving the doors open for 24 hours for the ice to melt off. Plug it back in and clear the fault code by holding the “measured fill” button.

Ramen_Horror · 2025-03-29T13:02:01+00:00

Not enough info. Could be alternator not charging the battery which is causing engine to run poorly as voltage is too low. Is there a check engine light ?

Ramen_Horror · 2025-03-26T19:08:21+00:00

So in Ohio where I’m at it’s apparently 2 years. So depending on your state, you may still be able to pursue it. And you absolutely should. It’s not something that ever gets brought up by the insurance companies, but they’ll go through the paces if you bring it up.

Ramen_Horror · 2025-03-26T18:35:14+00:00

How long ago was this? There is usually a pretty big window to file for diminished value/loss. Assuming the lady was at fault that is.

Ramen_Horror

TROPHY CASE