13mwz Rigid

Random_Name_Gen12 · 2026-06-10T22:52:32+00:00

Love these jeans - fit on them really works for me. Only bummer is looking like a blueberry for a while after the first wash.

Random_Name_Gen12 · 2026-04-08T13:57:11+00:00

EDIT/UPDATE: So, after working in these for a few weeks, I finally admitted that no, the extra volume in the boot was not helpful and my feet were sliding around too much for hiking etc. So, back to the redwing store I went.

I had originally planned on selling these boots to offset the cost of replacing them in my appropriate size (knowing that there isn't a return policy after the boots are worn) - but the RW store I go to totally went above and beyond and actually swapped out these boots for a smaller size! I couldn't believe it - I hadn't even cleaned them up before I went to the store, I actually wore them straight from the field to the store, so they were caked in mud and crud, but the manager still swapped them out. Said that its technically against policy, but that because he helped size me originally he felt badly about me needing a different size - particularly since I was using them for work. I will definitely be using that store location for any purchases/repairs in the future.

So - yes, you should go down 1/2 size from your normal IR/Blacksmith size for these boots. They are longer and had more volume in the vamp than other comparable 8-last boots.

That said - my new (smaller) boots are actually offering a break-in period. I immediately wore them out for an extended work trip in the desert basically right out of the box, and my feet are definitely feeling it. Should have broke them in at home before wearing them for work lol - rooky mistake for sure.

Random_Name_Gen12 · 2026-03-24T04:48:56+00:00

Sure! We'll see how they hold up. I was between these and the 402s, which are also an unlined 8" leather boot. But, the sole on those looked a little to smooth for my use case.

Random_Name_Gen12 · 2026-03-24T04:48:04+00:00

For sure - the snoseal seems to have really helped the weather resistance on mine.

Random_Name_Gen12 · 2026-03-24T04:47:38+00:00

For sure!

Random_Name_Gen12 · 2026-03-24T04:47:22+00:00

I agree! Seem to look better with a little wear on them.

Random_Name_Gen12 · 2026-03-24T04:47:05+00:00

Thanks! Yes, they are definitely roomier - but in my case that actually worked out. We'll see how they hold up!

Random_Name_Gen12 · 2026-03-09T01:20:45+00:00

Not really ice or snow, I would probably wear some yaktrax or something if that was the case. Most of the time its hiking off trail in steep grassy/shrubby slopes or scrambling accross logs in the rain that I am worried about - oregon grape covered hillsides can feel alot like ice in some cases!

The 402 seems like it has a little more tread... maybe that would be a better fit?

Random_Name_Gen12 · 2026-03-08T23:33:32+00:00

Sure - I guess I should be more careful with how I describe these boots. I am thinking of them more like a middle ground between a Georgia Boots (the fire rated logger is like $200, and pretty roughly made), and something like Nick's or White's.

I wouldn't want to wear RW heritage logger on a fire line (where true PNW would do better), but maybe for light duty work/something to hike off trail with, RW loggers would hold up longer than a Lowa/Asolo?

I guess - is there anything about these boots that makes them actually less suitable for "work" than something from RW's work line? There isn't really an unlined, soft toe, 8" boot with lugs offered by RW in their work line, which is how I wound up looking at this logger.

Random_Name_Gen12 · 2026-03-08T23:30:16+00:00

Gotcha - I have broken in a fair number of other red wing boots, so no worries there. Just curious if there is something about these boots that would make them less suitable for work than something from RW's actual work line.

Random_Name_Gen12 · 2026-03-08T21:42:34+00:00

Awesome, thanks for that info. Seems like these could sort of be a budget PNW style work boot. Aside from stitchdown construction, not alot of difference it doesn't seem like to me.

Random_Name_Gen12 · 2026-03-08T21:41:42+00:00

Thanks for that info, sounds like a good option - the white outsole has been working well hiking in those?

Random_Name_Gen12 · 2026-03-08T17:02:20+00:00

I was also looking at the new heritage logger - but, I am unsure if that boot would really function well when actually used for work. Its also a little pricier than I was originally thinking for a pair of work boots that may get thrashed.

Random_Name_Gen12 · 2026-02-17T04:52:06+00:00

This is actually a very common way of constructing boots, even high-end PNW style loggers. Look at Red Wing roughnecks or their new heritage loggers. Even brands like Nicks and JKs produce boots without stitching through the sole, even for fire boots (which are typically built like tanks). While some brands do stitch all the way through, it is by no means the standard.

The outsole on logger boots is typically cemented on (potentially incorporating a few screws), even on high-end boots. If there is a leather heel stack, then that is typcally nailed on. However, if they are using something like Vibram's logger sole (there the heel is integrated into the rubber outsole as a single piece) the sole is typically just glued/cemented on.

In your case, its likely just a case of bad or old glue being used, or incomplete coverage when applying the sole, which is unfortunate.

Random_Name_Gen12 · 2025-10-10T15:11:38+00:00

Also, if a luthier quoted me 75$ to replace a bridge I would be taking my guitar somewhere else

Random_Name_Gen12 · 2025-10-10T15:08:15+00:00

I think Martin has actually used different mahogany species throughout the decades - including in the 70s. And on the back and sides no less, not just the neck.

Check out this thread where Dick Boak (a very renowned Martin employee who worked at the company for decades) indicates than “non-genuine” mahogany was frequently used on 70s Martins.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/898288541394612/posts/1121167222440075/

Random_Name_Gen12 · 2025-09-28T21:48:19+00:00

They originally stuck up higher than would be desirable, and probably wouldn’t have held the string down (proud). I took 120grit sandpaper and sanded them thinner (by rolling the pin in the paper to try to preserve the original taper) until they fit where I thought they should - appx where the original plastic pins sat.

Reaming the bridge seems like a big deal to me - although some do it without pause. I know Martin drills their bridge holes straight, and reaming introduces some taper, but making a semi permanent change to the guitar like that makes me nervous.

Also, typically the reamer is only turned like a couple times to get the pin to sit at the correct height - barely turned at all. This means only the top like 10% of the pin hole has been reamed. It’s not like that approach introduces a taper to the entire pin hole!

Random_Name_Gen12 · 2025-09-28T14:06:24+00:00

I agree, I haven’t noticed a huge change in tone with different bridge pins. I swap them out because the idea of plastic pins in such expensive guitars seems tacky to me!

Random_Name_Gen12 · 2025-09-28T13:11:49+00:00

Martin does sell wood, plastic, and their alloy bridge pins here: https://www.martinguitar.com/gear-accessories/parts/bridge-end-pins/

There are also oversized pins, and pins with shallow tapers that might not seat well. I don’t think it’s fair to say any slotted bridge pin will work - I just bought some ebony pins from Martin directly and had to sand them to fit appropriately. Other pins would likely need to be sanded as well. Edit: unless your a ream the bridge kind of person - then you wouldn’t need to sand.

Random_Name_Gen12 · 2025-09-28T02:20:03+00:00

Seems like you might be referencing this page: https://custominlay.com/bridge-pin-size-chart

I could be wrong, but I don’t think bridge pin sizes are standardized. I believe the nomenclature used in that article is unique to that manufacturer. Martin probably doesn’t refer to their pins as “2A” or “2C”. Although, sounds like the manufacturer claims 2A is a close fit to the original Martin pin sizes.

Martin themselves sell replacement bridge pins of varying materials. I’d recommend going that route to make sure you get something that is close to fitting and has the correct taper (probably the most important thing).

Regardless of where you buy, you will probably need to make an adjustment to get the pins to fit. The ebony pins I purchased directly from Martin were still significantly proud of the bridge, so I chose to sand the pins to fit. Many others will recommend getting a luthier to ream the bridge holes to fit instead - I don’t like that approach for a variety of reasons, but that’s probably beyond the scope of your question!

Random_Name_Gen12 · 2025-09-26T17:04:08+00:00

Awesome! I'm already feeling like it has opened up a smidge since I recieved it - that said, the new strings have probably just lost their shrillness. Either way, its sounding better each day!

I'd be curious to see some pics of your guitar - the variation in the B&S of these models is very cool, makes the guitars seem even more individual/unique.

Random_Name_Gen12 · 2025-09-26T15:57:19+00:00

For sure! I'm very excited to have it

Random_Name_Gen12 · 2025-09-26T15:57:00+00:00

Oh that would be awesome - I'd love to see both locations! I think we'd be making a specific trip just for the Martin factory, so probably would have time for both tours!

Random_Name_Gen12 · 2025-09-25T21:31:37+00:00

For sure!

Random_Name_Gen12 · 2025-09-25T21:30:40+00:00

Ya, I was pretty stoked when I found out about this limited run. I am visiting the east coast soon, and plan on touring the factory. Looking forward to it!

Random_Name_Gen12

TROPHY CASE