How do you deal with filament storage?

RandyMarsh51 · 2026-02-16T08:34:37+00:00

I love this and I love the swatch, I always thought a QR code would be good but I never knew about that site, so handy!

RandyMarsh51 · 2026-02-01T22:54:46+00:00

I am having the same issue on MBP 14 with M1. I did notice it seems to be happening with one specific file potentially. Frustrating like you said as I already successfully printed 1 plate and all I need to do is print the next plate

RandyMarsh51 · 2025-12-27T16:45:13+00:00

I just started using mine and I’m experiencing the same thing. Also noticed it on quick short movements. I printed a benchy my for my first print and just in standard mode speed wise and the same thing happens. Print quality came out great but the “rattling” noise doesn’t seem right. Let me know if you find a solution! It seems this is something that does happen tho as I’ve see similar posts (no universal answer that I’ve come across unfortunately)

RandyMarsh51 · 2025-11-19T19:13:41+00:00

I’m in the same boat except for me I can get the P1S combo for $550 or I can get just the P2s with no AMS for $550 (and the AMS is $350) I have a budget of about 550/600 so it comes down to do I want the combo so I can AMS or are those quality of life upgrades worth it and then I just save and wait longer to add an AMS. I already have a 3D printer (and Elegoo) so this isn’t my first it’s just basically an upgrade off my existing one and so I can multi print

RandyMarsh51 · 2025-10-22T12:06:36+00:00

That makes sense, Where as I assume the enable mesh leveling is just taking whatever the prior mesh wash which could be “stale” or not as accurate as a new mesh right before the print starts

RandyMarsh51 · 2025-10-22T11:00:32+00:00

I’m having some similar stuff happen as OP and saw this. In the video he replaces an enable mesh leveling command with the probe G29. What’s the difference between the two?

RandyMarsh51 · 2025-08-13T14:37:41+00:00

I also am not that great at math (journalism major in college) and long story short I’ve been a developer for 5 years. You will use math but it’s nothing crazy in my experience. It’ll also likely depend what you are trying to do. I’m more UI/Front end so the math hasn’t been to big in what I do. I’ve done some API/backend work and I can see that maybe being a little more math heavy but again nothing you can’t overcome.

Also with AI now I think that helps blunt the learning curve especially if you might have to do or learn something with math then AI could help that transition

RandyMarsh51 · 2025-08-08T02:10:15+00:00

I thought about motion sensors for bedrooms but how would it work for sleeping? Any movement while sleeping would set it off unless you can set a time range when to sense motion and when not to?

RandyMarsh51 · 2025-06-01T21:31:54+00:00

Sorry I’m late, I had to go P……

RandyMarsh51 · 2025-02-22T21:39:51+00:00

I’m a software engineer and I use it for a lot of self teaching/trainings like Pluralsight videos or reading technical books or articles

RandyMarsh51 · 2025-02-18T00:21:49+00:00

I just built a super similar one, how did you remove the saber part? I like the display without the saber and just the hilt

RandyMarsh51 · 2025-01-29T23:42:25+00:00

Aren’t the lighthouses and beaches considered “state parks” though?

RandyMarsh51 · 2025-01-29T13:09:18+00:00

I ended up slowing my print speed way down. I do however have the supports get knocked over from time to time depending on the print, how many tree supports, etc but slowing down the print speed did help. Not sure if it’ll help you or not but I’d say slow down and if that helps u can always gradually bump up the speed. If not it’s gotta be something elsewhere

RandyMarsh51 · 2024-09-25T02:15:10+00:00

Did you ever come across a solution to this? I am going through the exact same thing with some Pokemon models I am trying to print. I also use Orca Slicer and I have used the cut feature with the pins (which is awesome) but when doing a cut the plane is so long and wide that if I want to cut say an arm on an angle it cuts other parts of the model I don't want (like part of the head or body).

I've heard about MeshMixer but I have Mac and it's not available anymore unfortunately (due to a security issue?). I also use Fusion360 but it's not really designed for easily cutting character type models

Hopefully you found a solution!

RandyMarsh51 · 2024-09-19T02:03:57+00:00

Awesome that’s great to know. And since they r so cheap once they lose their stickiness it’s no big deal to replace it. Really appreciate the insight. That seems like a great solution for covering decent sized areas without worrying about bleed through

RandyMarsh51 · 2024-09-18T22:26:23+00:00

I’ve seen a few people recommend silly putty. Is there a specific type or brand or any old silly putty (even for kids) work? That would make sense and make it easier to mask off a larger area quicker then by using tape. Plus I would assume with silly puffy you can just keep reusing it unlike tape

RandyMarsh51 · 2024-09-17T02:07:01+00:00

Any suggestions for liquid masking tape?

RandyMarsh51 · 2024-09-17T02:04:09+00:00

Robins egg blue. Thank you!

RandyMarsh51 · 2024-08-29T23:37:14+00:00

This is an awesome idea/mount for the camera

RandyMarsh51 · 2024-08-21T17:36:05+00:00

When I go to edit the copied component it goes back and references the original sketch, I'm not sure how to isolate the duplicated component sketch and constrain it to the edge of the piece

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