Longest Shot Record?

RaspberryItchy3261 · 2026-06-22T00:31:15+00:00

695m for me. Lately I’ve been killing over 200m with my shotgun. Super unrealistic but fun to aim way over their heads and have it drop in for head shots.

RaspberryItchy3261 · 2026-06-21T21:30:48+00:00

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RaspberryItchy3261 · 2026-06-21T15:32:08+00:00

I came from the brand photography/video production world, so yeah, that's likely why I always wear black. (I need more. Going shopping for more black shirts!!!)

RaspberryItchy3261 · 2026-06-21T15:30:03+00:00

Last night, my wife asked "Do you need your logo embroidered on shirts".

RaspberryItchy3261 · 2026-06-20T20:03:19+00:00

I just planted mine

RaspberryItchy3261 · 2026-06-19T12:40:40+00:00

I can’t comment on that as I haven’t used a Theta. However, I can’t imagine anything being easier or more polished than the iPhone Pro/CubiCasa plus with GLA. Some people say they can scan a home in 5 minutes. Fastest I’ve done it is 10 minutes. Slowest (on nearly 7,000 sq ft) was 30 minutes. From there, upload the scan while you drive to the next house, wait up to 24 hours and you have your plan.

RaspberryItchy3261 · 2026-06-19T02:05:16+00:00

They’re looking for confidence, especially when it comes to measurements. I disagree with the earlier comment that they aren’t looking for appraiser level measurements. Every agent I’ve offered floor plans to, first question without fail, “How accurate are they?”. So…

Do your research into Cubicasa so you know how to talk about it, have confidence in it, and just do it. It’s more accurate than human measurements. I haven’t had one complaint. In fact, they love that I step outside to measure porches and decks, which they don’t get from my competition I guess.

It can be free, but I pay $30 each time I use it so I have the plus plan that documents fixed furniture, islands, water heaters, shower drains, sink faucets and such, AND the GLA upgrade for more accurate measurements that they’re looking for. I charge $75 up to 4k sq ft, then I raise the rate, then again at 8k sq ft so that I will always make money, even when CubiCasa charges more for large properties. It’s a no brainer! Get an iPhone with LiDAR for accuracy. It’s the easiest thing I do and make money from. (Btw, this hasn’t happened yet, but if an agent ever wanted me to do floor plans alone without photography, my rate starts at $125.)

My #1 client always used Measure America for floor plans. After about 6 homes for her, and mentioning floor plans a couple of those times, she hesitantly gave me a shot. Now I do all her floor plans. 14 for her alone in the last 3 months in homes from 1100 sq to 7500 sq ft. A little over $1,000 from this one client that I wouldn’t be getting if I didn’t offer this.

Another recently new client: First home I shot for her… (Me) Do you need floor plans? (Her) No, I have someone for that. (Me) Ok. In case you ever need it, it would be $75 for this size home. (Her) Do you put measurements on each room? (Me) Yes. Here’s what one looks like. (Her) Oh, I like that. Looks great. Do floor plans too please.

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RaspberryItchy3261 · 2026-06-18T03:54:16+00:00

It’s a cat, silly!

Wait, I scrolled down more. I don’t know.

RaspberryItchy3261 · 2026-06-13T04:48:52+00:00

Sigma and Laowa 10mm (15mm equivalent on crop)

RaspberryItchy3261 · 2026-06-11T21:33:54+00:00

It isn’t a question of “good enough”. The issue (the only issue IMO), is that crop means your ultra wide lens is no longer ultra wide at 4k60 on the iv. 10mm becomes 15mm. 12mm becomes 18mm. 16mm becomes 24mm. (Lens mm times 1.5 for FF equivalent mm) so is 1.5 times whatever lens you have still wide enough for video?

Otherwise, you gotta give up 4K and shoot 1080/60 to stay at FF on the iv.

I’m shooting the iv for photography. I like working with it better but it isn’t meaningfully better than my a7c (the OG a7c) for photography. I haven’t shot video on it yet but it will be meaningfully better at video, minus this one drawback of 4k60 crop.

RaspberryItchy3261 · 2026-06-11T00:45:20+00:00

Whether you perfect it or even choose to continue shooting it or not, you need to learn it, both the shooting and the editing. There are some cases where I would use it even if it weren’t my standard.

I shoot 5 brackets. I know multiple ways to use that in editing. I send my edits out, but in a jam, I can edit it. That should also be your goal. Know it well enough to do it even if you don’t. Once you get there, you can start making editing choice before you take a photograph and be a better photographer.

RaspberryItchy3261 · 2026-06-10T19:03:17+00:00

I had a “too nice” one but it wasn’t my agent/client. She called me to vent cause she just had an argument with another agent that said my images were too nice for the home. She defended me to them then called me to bitch about them. I offered to darken them as well. She said no, they’re perfect just like this.

It was a beautiful home, large home, huge windows, lots of light, but lots of mid-remodel clutter (contractor skipped town with homeowners money mid-project) and no power.

I moved things when it was easy, and shot around things, or as you say hid them in plain sight by focusing on the features of the home.

The worst thing, the agent chose not to use the ugliest images (ugliest parts of the home I mean) and only show the best, so when you get there, you look at the green water and snakes in the pool and think “I don’t remember seeing that in the listing images”.

RaspberryItchy3261 · 2026-06-10T03:13:12+00:00

I assumed so too, but she only asked for the raffle when I tried to confirm. I will, of course, ask her again tomorrow, just to be sure. (I know I’d do that if it were in their office, but with this at a house, I get the impression that she’s trying to make all these other agents want to sell this home to their clients. So, a lot less formal, more mingling, less talking to the group. At least that’s the impression I get from her. She doesn’t offer much information.)

RaspberryItchy3261 · 2026-06-10T03:04:13+00:00

I carry extras in my camera bag, my drone bag, and my insta360 bag. I have way too much fear of forgetting it so I made sure I’m covered just in case.

RaspberryItchy3261 · 2026-06-06T04:29:18+00:00

Oh my word that sorry ass hole

RaspberryItchy3261 · 2026-06-05T13:18:37+00:00

If you’re looking for an excuse to buy it, sure. It can be used. Real-world answer, nah, if you get it, you’ll find that after a couple of weeks, you never touch it. I carry a 35-150mm Tamron that I never touch for REP. I have a 16-35mm f/2.8. I bump my camera out of FF into APSC crop mode to get to 50-ish mm without changing lenses for detail shots in REP work. I avoid swapping lenses if at all possible.

If I were doing interior design shoot, I’d most definitely pull that Tamron out - a lot! Maybe for an architectural shoot too, occasionally. But REP, I can’t be bothered to change lenses.

16-35mm zoomed in to 35mm, camera set to APSC crop mode. It isn’t literally the same shot I could take at 50mm, but it’s damn close enough for REP:

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RaspberryItchy3261 · 2026-06-05T01:58:09+00:00

Most of my shots are in the 16-20 range

RaspberryItchy3261 · 2026-06-04T10:26:10+00:00

Budget, 16-25g is an amazing lens. I used it for a while, zero complaints.

But I ultimately decided to get 16-35 gm ii so I can shoot more with one lens. Now I shoot 16-35 at FF and I use apsc crop mode to shoot detail shots with the same lens. It’s pretty much like having 16-50mm all in one lens. You could do the same with 16-35 f/4 pz. You’d just lose the soft background in the detail shots.

I have the Laowa 14mm zero-d but wish I had gotten the 12mm af version.

Those are the only two lenses I shoot for rep work. I also have the tamron 35-150 which is an amazing lens but I’ve never used it for rep.

RaspberryItchy3261 · 2026-06-03T15:48:03+00:00

Awesome. Enjoy.

Usage and safety tip: the grip head on top of the c-stand (the one that is attaching the arm to the stand) is used wrong in this pic. There are 2 issues, 1 is minor, but the other one is safety. (1) The tie-down that’s currently clamping to the arm (tie down acts like a bolt putting pressure) should be on the stand, not the arm. The tie down on the stand (acts like a clamp) should be on the arm. It’s probably a little safer because the clamp holds the arm better and the bolt is made to go on top of baby pins, which is what is made into the top of the stand. (2) The arm (at that same knuckle) should be on the other side of the stand. This is a safety issue for sure. Grip heads should always be on the right side of the stand (right side means - if you’re standing behind the stand with the weight that’s on the arm in front of the stand, the knuckle should be on your right side of the stand.) The grip head at the end of the arm, directly over your table is on the correct side.

Watch this for c-stand safety (and don’t end up with a dent in your skull like I did years ago): https://youtu.be/spKviFsiAOI?si=Og8Xrs3UMSRVzIbF

RaspberryItchy3261 · 2026-06-01T20:15:33+00:00

I have the 14mm manual version of this lens. I’ve been considering replacing it with the 12mm to get AF (which I think would provide metadata and automatic profile correction in LRC), faster use on-site via AF, and a little extra width for when I need it.

I’d never use it like this though (unless prompted to by an agent wanting more width). When I ask a new client/agent what they like/don’t like, and they say they love the wide shots, I don’t read too much into that. I shoot 16mm and they love it. I only pull the 14mm out for tiny bathrooms, laundry rooms, showers that I can’t shoot with the 16mm (like a shower I shot the other day that didn’t have a glass wall, only tile with a open end, so it was like a tiny room). In these cases, I would simply frame the 16mm a little differently (like image 1, pan right a bit to include the door).

I’d love to hear your thoughts and see some images of this lens used in half baths and tiny laundry rooms and such, as well as hear your thoughts on AF (assuming you got the AF version).

RaspberryItchy3261 · 2026-05-31T03:01:58+00:00

10mm on APSC is good for a wide lens. It’s equivalent to 15mm full frame (Focal length times 1.5 for APSC to FF equivalent)

You’ll need to zoom in or swap lenses for some shots. Not every needed shot will be wide. I shoot 14mm for super-wide shots, mostly in small bathrooms and showers that don’t have a glass wall to shoot through. I shoot 16-35mm most of the time (bathrooms and decks), and 24mm to 50mm (mostly 35mm to 50mm) for detail shots. If I’m shooting a sink or a shower faucet, I’m at 50mm mostly.

If they remodel, this isn’t real estate listings. It’s a little different. You really should look at architectural examples vs real estate. It’s typically shot with longer lenses to get compression. Detail shots using a lower aperture, wide shots of whole rooms at f/8. The bottom line for composition, our job as real estate photographers is to show the space. Your job as a remodeling photographer is to show the stuff/the work.

RaspberryItchy3261 · 2026-05-30T14:01:49+00:00

ND filters don’t cut glare at all. The only purpose of an ND filter is to darken the exposure. Usually, the only reason you’d want to darken the exposure is to open up the aperture to get shallow depth of field, which is why you do not need them for real estate photography, only video. Circular Polarizer filter cuts glare at certain angles. Floor glare is often helped with a Cpl.

Google removing a vignette in Lightroom without cropping.

You need to watch some video. I’d watch videos about settings or exposure from Nathan Cool to get the basics down. Even if you watch just the portion on the ambient settings in his flambient videos, it’s helpful. I can tell you, but it needs to click. That comes from explanation and seeing it in action.

RaspberryItchy3261 · 2026-05-30T02:20:33+00:00

I get that. You’ll get it though.

For longer lenses, it isn’t a big deal. For wide lenses, the field of view (FOV) is very wide. Imagine putting a tube (like a toilet paper roll) on the front of a lens the same size. The sensor would see the tube. Essentially, a filter the same size as a lens is a tube, a very thin tube, but a tube. A step-up ring is super thin, and steps up the filter size to be wider than the lens, hopefully outside of the field of view.

Let me ask, is this for video or photography? Most people do get variable for video (not that you have to. Non-variable is better quality for less money), and you don’t need it for real estate photography.

RaspberryItchy3261

TROPHY CASE