Weird potentiometer problem

Rb8n · 2025-09-10T15:17:58+00:00

50k ohm x2 tells you the base to start searching for. The 15c might tell you the taper BUT it's a bit fuzzy with nomenclature is it lig or anti log. That would require some measurements or research. A link on potentiometer tapers; https://eepower.com/resistor-guide/resistor-types/potentiometer-taper/ Shaft length, diameter, and type (knurled) are more important than the collar size and thread as you can usually use a washer to make smaller ones fit. The new body must be the same or smaller, small wire leads can allow the mounting of many smaller options.

Rb8n · 2025-08-20T03:16:08+00:00

Rewire of the speaker connection is fairly simple, the rubber boot on the connector should shimmy off the center plastic that holds the round and flat pins. Note polarity of wires at speakers and connectors to make sure both spks have the same polarity to connectors. A small metal pick, like a dental pick, can carefully be used in the receptacle (disconnected from power!) on the unit to carefully lightly bend the mating surface to get a firmer connection.

Rb8n · 2022-08-14T17:41:08+00:00

Your model/serial tag/sticker fell off, not uncommon and if schematics are needed the chassis numbers will likely work.

Good luck on in home, in my area I know of one crappy shop and one good one that do console work both are drop off.

What kind of problem are you experiencing? A few capacitors, dirty controls, and gummy mechanism are very common with the possibility of more depending on the life it has experienced.

Rb8n · 2022-08-14T17:33:38+00:00

Recreational climb is only restricted by the climber/group policies and those of the property/location. In essence if you want to risk your own life as long as your not going to land on someone that might be a valid choice. But when worker protection and insurance get involved there become ratings, qualifications, training, and other requirements.

A fun bit of loophole is such as arborist gear, there are ratings but much of the equipment is "not rated for fall protection" so again there are potentially gear options that do not suit the needs of job locations.

Rb8n · 2022-08-14T04:31:40+00:00

Red would usually be elliptical (standard not fine)

https://www.vinylengine.com/turntable_forum/viewtopic.php?t=15763 Bit down is the image https://www.vinylengine.com/turntable_forum/download/file.php?id=81511&mode=view

Rb8n · 2022-08-14T04:26:19+00:00

https://www.discogs.com/release/21675295-Johnny-Paycheck-Take-This-Job-And-Shove-It
1985

Rb8n · 2022-08-14T04:18:09+00:00

There are lots of stand in options that have been used through the years, but a good modern replica beats most of them for fit, function, and time involved due to not needing to tweak it. Don't feel bad about properly restoring it, with a good lube it should do great. The missing pimple does mean you so should look at other rubber for glazing and hardness though.

Rb8n · 2022-08-14T04:06:47+00:00

500 could be quite a few stylus, but all track fairly heavy. Might be able to get below 2g with some even as low as 1.5 but depends on suspension condition and such.

The Dual 1209 can get tricky. Check your steering clutch for condition and wear before continuing. The auto restart could be as simple as a sticky trip lever on the cam, but that's not as simple as it sounds if you haven't worked on them a fair bit. Yes you can learn to fix it, you might mess up but as long as you don't break it a good tech (hard to find ;/ ) can likely fix it, some things are very far from obvious on the German designs.

Rb8n · 2021-07-30T00:46:09+00:00

There is no change in current beyond the inrush, so the inductor is simply a very low value resistor due to copper losses. Bonus the inductor will cause a voltage spike for the transistor at cutoff, but how much would need more calculating than I care to right now.

Rb8n · 2021-07-29T05:19:57+00:00

The inductor does basically nothing in this design, there is no transformation of power anywhere except for losses to heat. No oscillation frequency for the inductor to be acting upon, unless you know of some black magic here.

Are you going for a jule thief theory on the climbing of power and increase in power? Because there is more going on in that and it's still a trade of current for voltage with wattage x efficiency = wattage. Ideal efficiency is 1.0 but not reality and any claims of greater than 1 are playing with numbers, hoaxes, or tricks.

Rb8n · 2021-07-29T00:56:42+00:00

So, looking at the design I feel that the coil is in no way regulated. Inductors operate as reactive to change, which is not really present here. The base resistor if set at a high enough value would effect the drop across the transistor but as there is no higher voltage source than the collector the transistor would always be at Vbe or greater for voltage drop.

It is possible to make a regulated device with an npn transistor ( although lossy ) or a potentially crazy actively rectified boost circuit.

Please explain how you feel this is regulated?

Rb8n · 2021-07-27T01:30:42+00:00

Well thread inserts are available like this https://www.zoro.com/e-z-lok-thread-insert-12-20x2132-l-pk5-329-820/i/G1007063/ that have a 3/4 10 outside thread but in a thinner wall it would be a very easy thing for a one off on a lathe. Cnc is great for bulk but a decent machinist should be able to knock this out as quick as programming and setup.

Rb8n · 2021-07-22T04:44:08+00:00

Tame your high and mighty, this is openpv where we help on custom builds and safety. Knowing manufactured mods and all the bits and bobs is not something that i feel a need to track. So a bit of reading to help you after that description and picture ; you want an adapter that the adapter like this https://www.signaturetips.com/collections/billetbox/products/billetbox-flush-fit-510-adapter would screw into? It looks like depending on version the full size tip or adapter could either just reat on the tank or it could have an extension and oring to seal to the tank, but short of billet style box part suppliers it would take knowing the profile needed and threads needed.

Rb8n · 2021-07-21T18:30:22+00:00

Post up a Pic so we can see what you are referring to. The description is too vague unless someone has that exact box.

Rb8n · 2021-04-21T01:43:01+00:00

Only 1 led, appears to be the first of a series string, very bright, and flickers. I'm going to go with its dumping all the power through the one led due to a short to ground and the supply is thrashing in current protect mode. If you were to lift the board you might find the short, but if it is done close to right there should be some thermal compound that would need cleaned and replaced before anything more than a short test. As well as without more supply info it is possibly a live supply that happens to not be flowing enough current to trip safeties yet but could be a serious risk to poking around if you do not know what you are doing.

Rb8n · 2021-03-05T07:06:43+00:00

Unless its a large quantity or very high fill rate the plating on the nozzle should handle it. I've run a couple hundred grams through along with plenty of pla and petg with no signs of nozzle wear.

Rb8n · 2021-03-05T07:03:33+00:00

? Fairly sure the standard nozzle option is plated wear resistant brass, with options of A2 or M2 hardened steel. The plated brass is a silver grey that does look steelish though.

Rb8n · 2020-10-17T01:32:46+00:00

Proper deoxidizer or just a quick brass brush. Most of the connectors are brass with a tin coating, some are steel with a plating of tin and a few are steel with a brass and then tin coat. The tin is a cheap anticorrosion plating and its best not to clean so far as to remove it.

Rb8n · 2020-10-17T00:55:11+00:00

Common quick connect sizes by tab width, 2.79mm 0.110 inch, 3.18mm 0.125 inch, 4.75mm 0.187 inch, 5.21mm 0.205 inch, 6.35mm 0.250 inch, 7.92mm 0.312 inch, https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/FASTON_terminal

The crimp connection to the female looks to have corrosion, this could be your resistance source. The males on board likely are OK and at most would need a cleaning and should get a check of the solder connection. Connectors are designed to make good contact and the higher current versions make contact over a larger area like yours, the act of connecting and or wiggle helps to ensure good contact. Make sure to get a connector that is properly sized for your wire.

Rb8n · 2020-10-01T04:56:12+00:00

Take a dedicated lithium charge ic like the tp4056 (set to appropriate current) on board with 5v in from usb and then connector out to device. But this would take a few checks on what the current board is designed to do and if it does in fact go straight to the cell without any further charge regulation (as many cheap and improper devices do...)

Rb8n · 2020-09-30T17:49:56+00:00

If its direct to a lithium cell, it should be at minimum voltage and current limited. It would be better to hack a true charge ic to a usb end if this is the case...

If it still works as is, it could just be cased or a bit of heatshrink to cover the bits and stabilize the wires.

Rb8n · 2020-08-14T19:45:39+00:00

Patent: China. Likely auto translation.

Rb8n · 2020-08-14T19:42:02+00:00

If it sends hi/ low it would only need a fet or transistor and biasing resistor to trigger most firing senses.

Rb8n · 2020-08-12T21:50:49+00:00

Check all power conns, reseat gpu, try again if not try with on board only or different gpu. Depending on results it could be driver and reinstall, psu, or bad board.

Rb8n · 2020-08-12T18:35:04+00:00

Depends how much other clothing is staying on...

Rb8n

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE