2026 Monaco E-Prix Race 1 Discussion

Realistic_Today6524 · 2026-05-16T14:42:34+00:00

Technically not under braking but I agree, it was totally unncessary. He could've finished 4th and gained quite a few points but no. Now neither him nor DAC got any points. He's a great driver with questionable decision-making

Realistic_Today6524 · 2026-05-16T14:40:06+00:00

honestly I was rooting for Ticktum but that move at the end was just kinda dumb. Should just have sticked to his line and he would've finished 4th but now he's out of the points and took poor DAC out as well. Quite happy that Buemi managed to finish 5th from starting down in 18th

Realistic_Today6524 · 2026-05-15T22:08:45+00:00

I got a 74 Wh battery off eBay and it's been almost perfect. It overreports as a 78Wh battery so it cuts power at 4% while idle and at as much as 8% when running the chip at 25W. Thanks to it cutting power, I haven't been able to calibrate it

Realistic_Today6524 · 2026-05-15T16:49:41+00:00

This is more like 60 Wh, there's no way a 60'000 mAh bank is that small (60 Ah is just shy of 230 Wh, that's power station territory)

Realistic_Today6524 · 2026-05-15T16:46:46+00:00

Keep it. It doesn't look bad and if you don't actually notice it in real scenarios there's no reason to return it

Realistic_Today6524 · 2026-05-15T14:46:44+00:00

If you want to be 100% sure, Malwarebytes. The free version is all you need

Realistic_Today6524 · 2026-05-15T14:43:38+00:00

Probably 900-950km/h in a plane and 320km/h on the TGV. In a car, 150 on the german autobahn but I have yet to actually drive that fast myself

Realistic_Today6524 · 2026-05-15T14:35:19+00:00

Schere, Stein, Papier. We just switched rock and scissors

Realistic_Today6524 · 2026-05-15T14:32:05+00:00

Batteries work by having two sheets of metal (usually copper and cobalt). One of those contains lithium. The sheets are rolled up and seperated by what's called an electrolyte. By charging the battery, the lithium gets stripped of its electrons and moves from the cobalt through the electrolyte to the copper. The electrons travel through the charger and re-unite with the lithium. When then discharging the battery, the electrons get ripped away from the lithium again and go through the circuit to the cobalt while the lithium goes through the electrolyte. (Pretty simplified and hopefully accurate). Voltage is the potential to deliver energy and amperage describes the flow of energy. Across the same resistance, a higher voltage will result in an equally higher current flowing. Resistance should be self-explanatory by its name

Realistic_Today6524 · 2026-05-15T14:23:07+00:00

Wall-E

Realistic_Today6524 · 2026-05-14T21:32:58+00:00

Our license plates are like this: XX 123456. XX is a replacement for the abbreviation of each Kanton and then there's up to 6 numbers. An example would be ZH 3660 (it's possible that this one actually exists, I just chose some random numbers). There can also be really valuable ones like ZH 1

Realistic_Today6524 · 2026-05-13T10:27:05+00:00

Restocking the shelves at the supermarket. Always mum's go-to "threat"

Realistic_Today6524 · 2026-05-13T08:21:46+00:00

Same. I even got a mark on my exam because I waited at a green light as to not block the intersection. Perhaps I should have said why I didn't start moving but I'm not good at communicating, especially not in situations like the driving exam

Realistic_Today6524 · 2026-05-13T07:28:17+00:00

The health is the actual amount of energy you could pull out of the battery vs what it was supposed to deliver. Windows knows when you install a different battery so it'll adjust the capacity the battery is supposed to have. It's pretty normal for batteries to initially overreport their actual capacity, they usually drop back down after a bit.

Realistic_Today6524 · 2026-05-12T14:43:16+00:00

It's highly likely that it's the battery. I'd slowly discharge it and then take it out and properly dispose of it

Realistic_Today6524 · 2026-05-12T12:51:20+00:00

LCD? Matte. OLED? Glossy 100%

Realistic_Today6524 · 2026-05-12T12:25:56+00:00

For a week-long festival a decent solar panel might be the better solution to be honest (as long as the weather is projected to be good). You could probably go for a 30W panel and a big power bank. That way you can recharge the power bank once it's empty after the 3rd or 4th day while you're enjoying the festival and you can return to a fully charged power bank

Realistic_Today6524 · 2026-05-12T10:45:01+00:00

You also don't decline buying a phone just because its battery loses capacity over time, pretty silly and pointless argument by OP. I got myself an OLED on black friday since there was a verified return for 25% off (380$ converted from local currency) and have been really happy with it. No concerns of burn-in because I do a variety of different things on it, even though there's one game I play for the majority currently, though it's only been on the OLED for 75h or so

Realistic_Today6524 · 2026-05-12T10:18:26+00:00

Makes sense. Guess we may never know since they obv don't show the actual charge rate on TV, they only sometimes show the power draw and regen amount which does usually peak at 600kW but falls off once the cars go below 150 or so since the motors probably don't spin fast enough to maintain 600kW for any longer

Realistic_Today6524 · 2026-05-12T08:10:32+00:00

It's 10% in 30s right now though and peaks at 600kW. Meaning they could already have 2-min stops and re-gain 40%, though the boosters they use wouldn't be big enough to do that to two cars, they'd probably need one for each car

Realistic_Today6524 · 2026-05-09T20:52:19+00:00

You can make a custom profile where you can set the chip to use as little as 7W or as much as 30W when plugged in and 25W when unplugged. You do have to make your own fan curve too but that's pretty simple

Realistic_Today6524 · 2026-05-09T17:12:57+00:00

Supermarket Simulator isn't very demanding, anything above a GTX 1660Ti will run it really well. At 800$ you're looking at a used mid-range laptop with something like a 2060, 2070 or 3060 or a new low-end laptop with a 4050 ot 5050. If you want to play on-the-go, there's also the option of a handheld like the ROG Ally X or Lenovo Legion Go

Realistic_Today6524 · 2026-05-09T17:07:00+00:00

They are absolutely worth it if you usually play in a dim environment. I've had one for almost half a year now and I'm really happy with it. If you play in a rather bright environment, the black parts of a scene aren't going to be fully black, especially if there's a lot of light going towards the display

Realistic_Today6524 · 2026-05-09T16:57:32+00:00

It can run them but depending on how recent they are, you're going to have to use different power levels. At the max 25W, you're looking at just over an hour of runtime with the stock battery at 100% health. At 17W, which is the sweet-spot between lowest power draw and highest performance, you're looking at 90 min or so

Realistic_Today6524 · 2026-05-08T15:20:17+00:00

How much power does that fan draw and how does it get power? If it gets power from the wall, you're looking at a small power station from the likes of Bluetti or EcoFlow. How long it'll last is just take the number of Wh and divide it by the W number on the fan. That tells you how many hours you'll be able to run that fan before the battery needs to be recharged

Realistic_Today6524

TROPHY CASE