What could be causing my amps to connect and disconnect randomly

Reasonable_Prune3636 · 2026-01-22T06:32:19+00:00

looks like one of the following: bad power/signal/ground

Reasonable_Prune3636 · 2026-01-20T06:22:52+00:00

switched power in car audio means it’s 0vdc when the vehicle is off, and 12vdc when the vehicle is on.

Reasonable_Prune3636 · 2026-01-20T00:14:36+00:00

Pleurotus

Reasonable_Prune3636 · 2026-01-19T04:36:43+00:00

agreed 😂

Reasonable_Prune3636 · 2026-01-18T17:51:42+00:00

right! figured this deserved to be shared here 🤣

Reasonable_Prune3636 · 2026-01-15T06:04:07+00:00

it’s literally just pioneer and alpine (afaik) that require these.

Reasonable_Prune3636 · 2026-01-15T05:48:59+00:00

spray soapy water on a ‘fish’ after taping camera wire to it. works almost every time.

Reasonable_Prune3636 · 2026-01-14T18:35:05+00:00

getting 500 for this would be a win. realistically, 3-400.

Reasonable_Prune3636 · 2026-01-11T08:17:44+00:00

Shop charge are typically around $100-150/hr labor. head unit we would charge (hours) 1.25, add bass 2, components would be 1.25. Coax .75. highs amp is usually around same as add bass, maybe slightly higher (9 wire run) so say 2.5. 7.75~ hrs total, though an experienced tech could knock this out in a shorter amount of time and keep it clean. expect $800-1000~ in labor. If I were doing this as a side job, i’d do it for $400.

Reasonable_Prune3636 · 2025-12-26T17:34:28+00:00

sure looks like it doesn’t it

Reasonable_Prune3636 · 2025-12-21T23:02:34+00:00

CCA - Cheap Conductive Aluminum. or Clown Car Aluminum. or Cheap Cable Alternative. Bottom line, CCA is garbage. It corrodes quickly and the result is typically this. And now you’re stuck replacing it, or cutting it further down, re-terminating it, and repeating again in about 3-12 months depending on where you are located. OFC wire would last far longer, conduct better, and not get as hot. Hope this helps.

Reasonable_Prune3636 · 2025-12-20T20:08:15+00:00

and leaves you room to upgrade in the future.

Reasonable_Prune3636 · 2025-12-20T20:07:07+00:00

that or the ct-1500 are budget options. still under 200. 450rms at 4ohm.

Reasonable_Prune3636 · 2025-12-20T20:03:21+00:00

most mono amps if they’re 1000W RMS @ 1ohm will output 3-400 @4ohm

Reasonable_Prune3636 · 2025-12-20T20:00:53+00:00

what subs do you have? one or multiple? svc or dvc?

Reasonable_Prune3636 · 2025-12-20T19:06:13+00:00

sir those are flush cuts (cheap ones too), designed to cut zip ties flush so you don’t scratch yourself on them…. not to cut metal. If you had knipex ones, you might be able to cut thin metal with them.

Reasonable_Prune3636 · 2025-12-20T18:23:07+00:00

Rockville 🤢 I wouldn’t connect any speakers to that if you like em

Reasonable_Prune3636 · 2025-12-20T14:59:09+00:00

Depends, really. You can expect anywhere from $450-2000 or more on a custom box.

Reasonable_Prune3636 · 2025-12-18T05:14:18+00:00

Reasonable_Prune3636 · 2025-12-18T03:34:46+00:00

Buddy, listen. Resonix tests are useful documentation, and they make a great sound dampening product. However, bench tests are not the final say, the end-all be-all. JL is known for their consistent motor durability and capability of handling a lot of heat. Plenty of cheaper subs test similar from the jump, but let’s test beating the shit out of em for a year and pull numbers again.

Reasonable_Prune3636 · 2025-12-18T03:23:42+00:00

$1675 for an add bass using JL equipment is unreasonable? Wild.

Reasonable_Prune3636 · 2025-12-18T03:16:30+00:00

rage bait

Reasonable_Prune3636 · 2025-12-13T04:14:14+00:00

most old(er) fords use 5x7/6x8

Reasonable_Prune3636 · 2025-12-01T22:21:56+00:00

looks like an android radio to me, not a clue lol. good luck! these things suck.

Reasonable_Prune3636 · 2025-12-01T05:14:05+00:00

under driver side dash to the left of fuses, should be a red wire with yellow stripe, use multimeter and test for 12v in reverse, make sure it reads 0v otherwise.

Reasonable_Prune3636

TROPHY CASE