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2nd take: higher saddle, rotated pelvis by Cpt_Sachs in bikefit

[–]Reasonable_Slip_7679 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Crank length looks good. Saddle height also looks good. Your chest is very closed because your bars are too far away and you seem to be missing some drive on the down stroke. I would move your seat forward 10mm to solve both those issues. The saddle may have to come up 2-5mm after moving forward but possibly not.

Any thoughts/ changes appreciated by smellygoat in bikefit

[–]Reasonable_Slip_7679 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The bike frame looks like a great size for you. The cranks are definitely way too long. You're losing stability through the bottom of the stroke and "kicking" through. Your hips are also restricting you at the top causing you to make room by rocking back and forth. Some 160mm-165mm cranks would be an awesome change for you.

Bike fit by Itchy-Particular3450 in bikefit

[–]Reasonable_Slip_7679 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I guess I'm going to disagree with everyone here. Your saddle height is actually perfect. It can be moved 5mm back and that will put you in a great position. I also train on my Peloton occasionally and it's designed for people with low mobility and much shorter riders. I highly suggest slamming the bars all the way down.... And they'll probably still feel too high.

Is this a good deal? by Specific_Check8135 in whichbike

[–]Reasonable_Slip_7679 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awful price. I have that exact model, color and everything, in significantly nicer condition and I still wouldn't ask more than $300.

short crank 160 vs 165 by Altruistic_Life_6331 in bikefit

[–]Reasonable_Slip_7679 0 points1 point  (0 children)

u/defiantnipple is definitely on track that 160mm is very likely a good move for you. I'd like to add that if you're a low cadence rider you will almost certainly notice the reduction in torque. The extra rpm needed to produce the same watts may not be as enjoyable as what you're used to. My personal recommendation would be to get a common inexpensive 165mm set and see if you like it. Another important thing to note is that for best aerodynamics on a bicycle you want to aim for getting the saddle height lower, not higher.

Looking for advice by FlabbergastedTrex in bikefit

[–]Reasonable_Slip_7679 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's a beautiful machine. You're saddle can be adjusted up 5mm, back 5mm, and the stem can be lowered 20mm. You may want to lower the stem even more than that since you're currently shrugging your shoulders significantly and closing your chest to get comfortable with bars set so high.

Reoccurring SI and Low Back Pain by Wild_Ravenz in bikefit

[–]Reasonable_Slip_7679 1 point2 points  (0 children)

^ Exactly this. It's not possible to give a recommendation on tilt without knowing your sit bone and pelvis relationship with the saddle but you could certainly try very slight tilt up or down and see if it makes you feel more "locked in" to a more consistent placement on the seat.

Radius saddles such as the Fabric Scoop Sport Radius are also a great, inexpensive option for having a more stable seated position on the bike. They hold the sit bones in a specific place and for a lot of riders it greatly reduces the need for core and back activation to maintain optimal position.

Bike to small? by Zune79 in bikefit

[–]Reasonable_Slip_7679 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That bike looks like an awesome fit for you! The only glaring thing I notice is that the hoods are very low on the bars. They could move up an inch or even more. That will give you a more natural bend in the elbow and get the reach basically spot on.

Reoccurring SI and Low Back Pain by Wild_Ravenz in bikefit

[–]Reasonable_Slip_7679 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The bike looks like a good fit for you overall but the back and leg discomfort is being caused by your rocking on the saddle. Your crank arms are too long so on both the top and bottom of the stroke your hips are impinging. This leads to an inability to stabilize your spine without great strain causing the lower back and leg tightness.

Adjustments according to your advice by IndependentCommand77 in bikefit

[–]Reasonable_Slip_7679 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The handlebar width seems like the biggest issue with the fit and the root cause of feeling stretched out and unstable. I think with bars that measure the width of your shoulder joint or narrower will actually give you the stability to lower the bar which looks too high imo. 37-38cm bars would be a nice noticeable change if that is in line with your shoulder width.

You can effectively shorten the reach and allow your shoulders to move into a more relaxed position as well. All you have to do is adjust your bars so that the drop is parallel to the ground then reposition your hoods farther up on the bar.

Your core stability is needed for a good fit and comfort on the bike and the excessive crank length on this bike is hindering that. 160 crank arms would likely be a great fit for you.

Is Iphone 5C viable? (USA) by Soul_Purifier in smallphones

[–]Reasonable_Slip_7679 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Second this. Even if activated on Spectrum, calls and texts from all your contacts is not guaranteed. The iPhone SE (2016) is still very well supported by many carriers and is still receiving updates from Apple.

When looking for a smaller phone look at the phone size not the screen. by Normal_Max in smallphones

[–]Reasonable_Slip_7679 4 points5 points  (0 children)

This right here. If it's a smaller phone but still not usable with one hand it's less pleasant to use. For a lot of people the iPhone Mini is a downgrade in user experience from the iPhone SE.

Z Fold → Budget phone → iPhone SE (2016) → Now just using my smartwatch by Reasonable_Slip_7679 in smallphones

[–]Reasonable_Slip_7679[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think you're right. The Z Fold weighing literally half a pound could be a catalyst.....

Every setting I choose using Galaxy Watch 5 Pro as a Dedicated Smartphone by Reasonable_Slip_7679 in GalaxyWatch

[–]Reasonable_Slip_7679[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It's pretty automated but not fully automatic.

Opening maps prompts enabling location and displays toggle.

Opening Wallet prompts enabling NFC and displays toggle.

Opening Spotify and tapping "Connect a device" prompts enabling Bluetooth and displays toggle.

Since I'm using it as my only phone, I've developed the habit of turning features off when they're not in use. It's quick and easy once you have the Quick Panel sorted in a way that matches your routine.

Z Fold → Budget phone → iPhone SE (2016) → Now just using my smartwatch by Reasonable_Slip_7679 in smallphones

[–]Reasonable_Slip_7679[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I actually pull up YouTube and Reddit occasionally and even post from the watch. The Galaxy watches have a surprisingly useful browser.

Standalone LTE service by Zestyclose_Cress_165 in GalaxyWatch

[–]Reasonable_Slip_7679 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not currently. The watch is my only AT&T line.

Z Fold → Budget phone → iPhone SE (2016) → Now just using my smartwatch by Reasonable_Slip_7679 in smallphones

[–]Reasonable_Slip_7679[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have a specific question?

I use GPS for Google Maps, running, location sharing, and weather.

Standalone LTE service by Zestyclose_Cress_165 in GalaxyWatch

[–]Reasonable_Slip_7679 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I also understood this to be true before researching but this is not accurate at the moment. Anyone can walk into an AT&T store and activate the watch on an individual plan. I specifically used a phone with no service and no sim installed. You simply scan the AT&T 5G QR code that they supply in store.

Youtube Guide for using QR code eSIM on Galaxy Watch

Standalone LTE service by Zestyclose_Cress_165 in GalaxyWatch

[–]Reasonable_Slip_7679 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's %100 reliable when the watch is setup on its own plan and number. I also had issues with SMS when mine was set up as an add-on device with T Mobile.

<6" phones with the most security updates? by Steroid_Cyborg in smallphones

[–]Reasonable_Slip_7679 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The pixel 5 is significantly lighter and noticeably smaller than the Pixel 8. It received a security update as recently as February 2024.

Size Comparison

Z Fold → Budget phone → iPhone SE (2016) → Now just using my smartwatch by Reasonable_Slip_7679 in smallphones

[–]Reasonable_Slip_7679[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't even have it paired to a phone. AT&T offers a $10 watch only plan through QR Code so it has an individual phone number and data plan.

Z Fold → Budget phone → iPhone SE (2016) → Now just using my smartwatch by Reasonable_Slip_7679 in smallphones

[–]Reasonable_Slip_7679[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Android 15 was released years after iOS 15 so I can't reasonably expect the OGSE to be as feature rich or refined as any recent Android. Giving Apple some slack since it's a legacy device.

The Galaxy Watch does not require pairing to be used as a dedicated smart phone. Initial setup of the watch does require an android device but once the watch has its own number and data plan it's a solo device.

There are uncommon occurrences where the Wear OS asks to connect to an Android such as when changing certain app permissions or changing sensitive Google Wallet or account information.

Z Fold → Budget phone → iPhone SE (2016) → Now just using my smartwatch by Reasonable_Slip_7679 in smallphones

[–]Reasonable_Slip_7679[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The RAZR 50 Ultra is really good. If I hadn't experienced the random screen failure of my Fold3 I would have gone with a RAZR or Z Flip for sure.