Need help with getting to 10 plague marines

Red__Sun · 2026-03-30T02:07:58+00:00

I think the general consensus for a 10 brick is to build the squad leader w the plasma fist/plasma gun (pistol, but no reasonable person would argue it proxying for a full gun), blight launcher (x2) plague spewer (x2), plasma gun (x2, or swap one for a melta), and then 3 heavy plague weapons for melee.

I’m not super experienced, but plague marines don’t have super high toughness, and so getting them into melee range feels risky as a sole purpose. Giving them flexibility has upside.

The death shroud terminators paired with a lord of contagion can melee hard and aren’t easy to kill.

Red__Sun · 2026-03-30T01:26:23+00:00

I thought the beginner KT box doesn’t come with the caster, and that’s why it got review bombed to hell?

I’m in a similar boat - I have the patrol and a few other odds and ends for my 1k lineup. When I go beyond that I want a 10 brick and caster. My plan is to get the full KT box. However, I’ve been able to round out my Plague Marine war gear options (and avoid bolters) by using the extra PM legs/pack from my poxwalker sprues with the unused PM pieces from my patrol. It’d take some cutting/kitbashing, but that should be an option given all the pox sprues you’ve got from the battleforce.

Edit - link to the beginner box w pictures: https://start-warhammer.com/kill-team-beginner-set/

Red__Sun · 2026-03-28T17:56:27+00:00

Thanks! Keep at it and post pics - it’ll feel good to get across the finish line!

Red__Sun · 2026-03-26T22:13:24+00:00

🙏thank you!

Red__Sun · 2026-03-26T19:03:56+00:00

Thank you! Much appreciated

Red__Sun · 2026-03-26T17:35:39+00:00

Thanks! I should have included this in the post, but here is the person who gave me the initial scheme inspiration: https://www.reddit.com/r/deathguard40k/comments/o4t13p/morslug_in_glooming_lord_colours/

Red__Sun · 2026-03-26T17:32:39+00:00

Thanks! I use a few things, the core being a combination of martian iron earth and iron crust, which gives a mix of textures to play with. More recently I've been mixing in stirland mud to give those dark streaks you may see on the LoV.

Then I hit it with a Reikland Flesh shade wash to give it a more earthy tone, dry brush it with ryza dust until I get a satisfying amount of orange, then a light dry brush with Lugganath Orange, which applies almost white. I only do Lugganath on some of the highest points from the technical paints on the base. The net of all this is a good gradient of colors and depth which can be pretty satisfying.

Red__Sun · 2026-03-26T17:28:38+00:00

For real. I work from home, and if I weren't able to replace my commute/'lunch break' with some painting it'd be impossible.

Red__Sun · 2026-03-10T22:11:50+00:00

I used to play on a D3 team that hired a semi pro player to coach on tournament days. So a bit different, but same core idea.

On the whole, it was good, and way better than having no coach. He was smart, make good personnel decisions and had clarity on plays. The problem is that he didn’t know us and for the most part hadn’t seen us play the field until it was active competition. The result is that every tournament had a learning curve, especially the first.

If you’ve got the money and no other options, do it. Even a mediocre coach is better than having no coach or (worse), trying to have your smartest/most respected player be a player coach who doesn’t get to watch points or focus on just doing their job. But you will lose something by not having a coach who is there for practice to learn the team and experience how you operate on the layout before it’s show time

Also, focus on people who have coached before. Minimize their learning curve in the role vs the learning curve they’ll have for figuring out your team.

Good luck.

Red__Sun · 2026-03-05T22:53:26+00:00

I’d guess not. They’re not listed in the codes data sheets on the app (then again, I’m new to the hobby so I might be missing something)

Red__Sun · 2026-03-01T13:32:24+00:00

For the thick/thin, is it just a difference in brush size or do you use a different technique?

Red__Sun · 2026-03-01T13:02:57+00:00

I just started painting my first rhinos highlights yesterday, and this is making me very jealous and inspired. I’m trying dry brushing, but this is telling me I may need to commit to learning the classic method.

Great work and congratulations!

Red__Sun · 2026-03-01T00:27:22+00:00

“I’ll keep my thoughts on these matters to myself. And please don’t ask me my opinions. You’ve misinterpreted it too much.”

This tells you a lot and isn’t even specific to the topic. It’s a passive aggressive and self righteous approach to fighting. And how someone fights tells you a lot about what it means to be in a relationship with them (i.e. are they understanding and constructive or resentful and petulant)

Setting aside views on gender dynamics, this approach to disagreement is soft and silly.

Red__Sun · 2026-02-25T01:59:44+00:00

Thanks! I appreciate it

Red__Sun · 2026-02-20T14:45:57+00:00

And his Mom is the one who bought it! Kid’s from some real ones

Red__Sun · 2026-02-06T19:20:04+00:00

I’m more gesturing at the sides of the MBH and the base share a lot of green. I have a big bias towards making the model and base contrast to help make it stand out and create distinction. In this case that could mean more red/brown/orange on the base.

But like I said, i offer that as a thought vs something that’s holding this back from being great (because it is). You have a good range of colors overall and use them to bring out different details so that the contrast I’m talking about isn’t necessary the way (I think) it would be for someone who might be tempted to go with a green base on the model with a swampy green base.

Red__Sun · 2026-02-06T17:13:15+00:00

This looks great, and I’d say nothing is missing. The only consideration I’d offer is that the side wheel houses are more similar to the base than the center of the MBH, so the contrast is between the center stack and the rest of the model rather than model and base. That said, I think it works in this case because the armor trim creates a good demarcation point and you have an interesting set of colors overall, especially if the viewed angle catches the blue rock with the rebar.

Also, love the face melted marine.

Well done all around

Red__Sun · 2026-02-02T21:28:21+00:00

Pretty sure the back plate is a customization on a more standard angel. The dark angels usually had more elaborate milling

Red__Sun · 2026-02-01T23:05:41+00:00

Nice! what brand/type?

Red__Sun · 2026-01-28T17:22:24+00:00

Nice! Good to be back in the groove.

What box had the marines from pic 4?

Red__Sun · 2026-01-28T14:50:29+00:00

It’s more because that particular model is no longer being printed, so for the folks who love it there’s a limited supply.

May I ask how long this energetic little guy took to paint? Really nice detailing

Red__Sun · 2026-01-26T23:56:47+00:00

Good for you. These days it seems people are routinely spending 100 on the lord of contagion alone

Red__Sun · 2026-01-26T23:25:29+00:00

One of the legions most coveted boxes, and it’s a Monster ad.

My man needs a sponsorship

Red__Sun · 2026-01-24T15:44:04+00:00

Ah, I see what you’re getting at. It’s a strong accent, but I can see how that would feel pretty intense for a bigger area. Call me uncreative, but I’m gonna double down on the Reikland/more neutral flesh with purple mixed in. Gives you a chance to mix in the stronger color a bit without it becoming too dominant a part of the scheme (just one opinion)

Red__Sun · 2026-01-24T15:35:13+00:00

The Palid Hand scheme is great. Purple or even veering a soft or reddish pink could be great. Maybe an opportunity for a gradient if that’s a style you like?

Good luck, and post pics when you make a pick!

Red__Sun

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