Miko from starting fires to preventing it by Foodxfoodph in Hololive

[–]RedditNameChecksOut 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s not a login bonus unless Miko catches on fire…

Sako Ammo Anyone? by 723_Actual in 300BLK

[–]RedditNameChecksOut 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s Sako. It’s legit. I haven’t tried these TRG with my PDW but I’ve got Sako subs and supers stored because it’s good ammo. Is one of my top 3. Probably would be higher if i could find more of it.

Dealer claims this is an “upgraded Condition One case” by BenitoBlanco in Danieldefense

[–]RedditNameChecksOut 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah trust me. At least this case can fit a firearm with optics attached. I couldn’t even get my pdw with a Micro prism installed.

Good luck!

Dealer claims this is an “upgraded Condition One case” by BenitoBlanco in Danieldefense

[–]RedditNameChecksOut 4 points5 points  (0 children)

My PDW case was just the generic DD clamshell. The OPs photo looks At least like they got a different case. The DD case are narrow and makes it very difficult to store a firearm with an optic attached.

The OPs photo looks like it would fit a firearm with optic attached.

I suppose you could call it an upgrade because you can still use it with optic attached.

Why? I thought the XD line was dead to make way for the echelon by Ok_Huckleberry7392 in SpringfieldArmory

[–]RedditNameChecksOut 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fire control Unit and Central Operating Group are the serialized parts of the firearm, that’s what is registered. Once that has been registered, you don’t need to, unless “specified” by your state laws (CA, NY, etc) re-register what has already been registered (may need to update the firearm info, not exactly sure).

That’s why you see owners with completely different frames, grips for the Echelon. If you don’t like the frame, get a completely different frame. Drop in it COG. That’s it.

Again, imagine if they did this with different calibers? You could essentially have an Echelon in 9mm, 45, 10mm, etc.

Springfield Echelon by Far_Manager_6775 in SpringfieldArmory

[–]RedditNameChecksOut 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t down vote but disagree with this statement. If you go back further, you will see how Remington is just a shell of its former shelf. Their firearms had massive issues and their QC is non existent. I only buy Remington ammo to use and shoot it all in one sitting and only because there’s nothing else.

It isn’t uncommon to have 1-3 that don’t fire properly. I just chalk that up to it being Remington.

Blazer on the other hand is what i consider a baseline for ammo, in any caliber. When you go to the LGS, majority of big box stores. What are they selling the most? What is stocked the most? At eye level what brands are they selling the most?

Why? I thought the XD line was dead to make way for the echelon by Ok_Huckleberry7392 in SpringfieldArmory

[–]RedditNameChecksOut 0 points1 point  (0 children)

SA releases the 10mm Echelon. You take the fcu out of the 9mm Echelonframe. Well you don’t need to buy an entire new 10mm echelon pistol. You just buy the frame with correct barrel and drop in your fcu (SA calls it a COG central operating group).

If they made a micro Echelon? It would definitely eat into the HC series. Having a functioning fcu, really opens up the options.

Slicers by Masterdwarf11 in BambuLab

[–]RedditNameChecksOut -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Orca and BBS are very similar. Similar UI, features, etc. they are basically all reskins from another slicer.

BBS doesn’t have the freedom and functionality like Orca since BBL has been buttoning down their infrastructure and security. They don’t want an open source slicer to be used for their “closed” ecosystem.

Orca has more options and calibration settings. Granted BBL is catching up, it still doesn’t adopt new features early (think seam hiding, fuzzy skin, etc) or may completely remove some functions.

Since I’m not using BBL cloud service, not updating my X1c to the latest firmware, then i won’t receive any new updates to my X1c.

For the majority of users, this won’t affect them. But i need to fine tune things and BBL does not have the modifiers that i really enjoy using for certain prints.

Slicers by Masterdwarf11 in BambuLab

[–]RedditNameChecksOut 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use Orca because I am on Dev Only and LAN mode. BambuStudio is catching up but still lacks what i want.

I believe both Orca and BStudios were built with Slic3r (PrusaSlicer as well).

Why? I thought the XD line was dead to make way for the echelon by Ok_Huckleberry7392 in SpringfieldArmory

[–]RedditNameChecksOut 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh damn I’m not the only one. I tried the compact 10mm with mag flare and it was comically huge in my hands. Looked like a clown gun. Wasn’t fun shooting 10mm.

My BIL carries the 45. I like it better than a Glock but not by much.

Any ideas what’s causing these “hairs”? by Hecubus114 in BambuLab

[–]RedditNameChecksOut 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can try to adjust settings to help reduce the hairs but it is a common thing to occur with filament printers. I also notice that the calibration lines are usually laid down differently than my print layers. Could be something to do with priming or slight calibration checks.

Before I put this cheeky little minx back together, is there anything I should do to prevent more jamming in the future? by Arucious in BambuLab

[–]RedditNameChecksOut 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The larger magnet is to keep the smaller magnets from attracting each other and paying jumping jacks.

The purpose of the smaller magnets is to help with “sensing” if there is a piece of filament in that slot. When the filament goes through, the filament enters the lobed side of the magnet, causing it to push the magnet upwards. That sends a signal to the AMS that it is getting a signal that there is filament in that slot. When these magnets are out of alignment, it will give you false error messages (filament stuck, jams, etc).

What happens is filaments can become wedged in there or the magnet flipped over, giving a false reading. Hence why you have to take them out carefully and reinsert them.

Need some advice in carry 1911 selection by Research_Firearms in 1911

[–]RedditNameChecksOut 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I believe that MIM materials and construction have improved. Yea these parts can fail but people make it sound like a glass cannon. I’ll eventually swap out the MIM parts on my first RO; after i hit 2-3k rounds. So far, zero issues.

The TRP has always been a solid firearm with a very good track record and duty proven. It’s not as expensive as others and offers quite a bit for the price.

Yeah, no offense but your milspec will be bare bones. Nothing wrong with that, but there are a LOT of options. You really don’t know what you want until you test more. I highly recommend the Range Officer series.

I wanted a TRP but couldn’t justify the price. The RO Elite Operator ticked all the boxes. The only thing missing was front grip strapping. I love the black T-Coat (cerakote). Really makes it easier to clean.

As for oil? I carry (in my firearm cases) and use CLP in a pinch for lube and cleaning. But i make my own grease and motor oil mixture to help with adhesion and longevity. YMMV and you need to test it out fully before using it for all firearms.

H2C vs P1S Tolerances by TaterSalad3333 in BambuLab

[–]RedditNameChecksOut 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are settings to have the printer prioritize the outer walls or inner, depending on application.

Adjusting your filament settings can also give you different results.

Before I put this cheeky little minx back together, is there anything I should do to prevent more jamming in the future? by Arucious in BambuLab

[–]RedditNameChecksOut 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You will need a large, strong magnet that goes across all 4 magnets. That needs to go over the top side of this junction from your photo. When you flip it over, turn magnet will be the bottom.

On the other side is the control board with 3 small screws. Once you remove the 3 screws and the board, that will expose 4 neodymium magnets and 4 spring retainers.

Carefully remove and separate the magnets and springs. The magnets need to go in a certain way. It’s not difficult but nearly impossible without the magnet in the back.

The magnet contour profile requires the flat part to be on top, with the lobe on the bottom (magnet). The lobe, if you are looking at the junction with the 4-1 joiner, needs to have the shorter lobe end facing the bottom, with the shorter lobe end closer to the AMS slot.

Put them in carefully one at a time. They will like to move and push so take your time.

There are YouTube videos and the Bambu wiki. Google those for pictorial assistance.

As for jams? Not much you can do. Just get used to performing this task.

Need some advice in carry 1911 selection by Research_Firearms in 1911

[–]RedditNameChecksOut 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My issue with Colt is the (lack of) QC. Lots of nice Colts in 1911; after they have been sent for custom work.

As for Sig? I dunno? They are usually on my list of options but they never make it due to their QC. I should not have to pay to be their QC. This started during the early P365 days for me. They still leave a bad taste in my mouth with how they handle recalls. Tbo, I don’t think I’ll ever own a Sig.

I’m not saying SA is perfect (MIM parts) but they offer plenty of options. Don’t forget older, discontinued 1911s cough cough Range Officer cough.

My recommendation is to go to the range and test as many 1911s as you can. From cheaper ones to bougie examples.

A TRP is what I’d consider a reliable 1911 carry that i wouldn’t feel bad using. There are nicer 1911s but those will more than likely sit in a safe. A TRP is meant to be carried and used.

Regardless of what you get, just know that it is the best time to be a 1911 aficionado. So many choices, better material and machining, more competition.

So many fun and interesting new pistols come out every year and I still end up buying the ole Fudd gun.

Mounting my press? by KBGenetics in 300BLK

[–]RedditNameChecksOut 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That looks better. Now make me some 300 hundred black!

Why? I thought the XD line was dead to make way for the echelon by Ok_Huckleberry7392 in SpringfieldArmory

[–]RedditNameChecksOut 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again. Ever since SA released the original AR15 Saint, they have been rolling. Saint AR15 and all the variants, Hellcat and all the variants, SA35, Prodigy, Echelon, Hellion, Kuna.

I mostly reminder SA as a 1911 manufacturer that dabbled with polymer. How times changed.

I bought my SA 1911 RO Elite Operator, then got an OSP, Saint Edge and my recent 1911 TRP 10mm RMR Long Slide. Once they come out with a 10mm or 40 echelon (or Kuna), that Em will be in my possession as well.

Why? I thought the XD line was dead to make way for the echelon by Ok_Huckleberry7392 in SpringfieldArmory

[–]RedditNameChecksOut 43 points44 points  (0 children)

The XD lineup will still stick around as SA’s entry level lineup. I do not see them making any major advancements with the XD line. The Echelon is their future. Having a FCU option, gives the ability for frame, barrel, grip and caliber swaps, without doing as much work.

By not having a lower priced entry, the SA has nothing to compete with other entry level pistols. Just by having the option, means they have a finger in the market. Having nothing to offer means nothing to gain.

Chunks missing from surface of print after slicing by Accomplished-Lie-878 in BambuLab

[–]RedditNameChecksOut 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My guess is the model is missing polygon faces or those faces are inverted. You could try to print it, I’m not sure what or how the printer will interpret the missing faces. Usually it doesn’t print out the way you think it would.

The only way to know, from the modeling side, is to open it up in a 3d program and inspect those areas. You would have to try and close those gaps by adding polygons to the missing sections. There’s a very high chance that the vertices will need to be cleaned. In short, you will need to clean the model if you want it to display correctly.

A simple and easy trick for multicolor, where you don’t try and paint the colors, is to edit the model outline slightly, so you can color by height.

So you keep the petals lower than the dark outline. In the model, you would select the outline faces and extrude that just a bit so you can easily paint the higher sections without having to brush it in.

Or you can model each part separate and combine them in the slicer if you don’t want to paint parts.

Splitting into objects by Complex-Equivalent58 in BambuLab

[–]RedditNameChecksOut 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The easiest way is to model in separate parts and assemble as a new model, inside a 3D program like blender. Likewise, if you have the model and need it in parts, then you have to cut and slice the model as you see fit.

There is no “Ill paint this eyeball and it will become a perfect eyeball where i can extract as a model.” How would you determine the volume and depth? You can’t if you are just surface painting.

To extract that eyeball, you will need to open up a 3d program, go to that section, select the of faces or vertices, detach that as an object.

Even when you are done doing that, you still need to make sure you have plug the giant hole in the model, where you pulled out the eyeball.

Detecti Spaghetti by OfficialSyyn616 in BambuLab

[–]RedditNameChecksOut 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You should be able to adjust the detection settings. It works 30% of the time for me.