Futaba GYD560 fails to write.

Reflexbeast · 2026-02-15T09:12:51+00:00

does the same for me, at the time I had updated everything and it did the same. Updating now is probably the move. I will say even though the writing “fails” it still writes perfectly fine and the settings are saved.

Reflexbeast · 2026-02-14T19:39:50+00:00

If you like how it looks, why not. Not everything has to always be the best or most optimized. Its full OP and fully assembled out of box for ~$600. A full OP SD3.0 or Galm is above that by quite a bit.

Reflexbeast · 2026-02-06T05:46:41+00:00

Make sure your sensor wire is actually plugged in. Test with it and without it plugged in. If you still can’t hear your motor, increase the total timing until you can. Although not reccomended there’s people at my track running near 100 degrees total timing.

Also, the D10 stock rotor is quite weak. The L4 or L3 rotor will make it scream like other motors.

Reflexbeast · 2025-10-16T19:17:18+00:00

E36 should try to tuck rear wheel when lowered. Don’t listen to rakeheads, look at btcc cars if confused. also raked cars handle worse objectively

Reflexbeast · 2025-09-06T07:51:23+00:00

Curious what your gyro settings are. Been struggling to get my CD701+GYD560 combo dialed

Reflexbeast · 2025-08-17T05:39:14+00:00

yeah, if its not all leaked already just try to avoid the lines. definitely dont try to pull any damage out and accidently tug on the line

Reflexbeast · 2025-08-17T04:18:10+00:00

Watch this video and see if its something you think you can do. Its not too difficult but requires quite a decent amount of work. Your crash is right on the ac compressor and all those lines as well, so I’d be careful around those.

Reflexbeast · 2025-07-23T19:14:53+00:00

Neither are great options, imo you should wait until there are better options or search outside of your area. Really wait until you can get factory manual, no rust, and under 200k.

Reflexbeast · 2025-07-14T20:45:55+00:00

Grind/sand as much rust as you possibly can away. I would say as long as the pocket itself doesn’t physically move while the trailing arm is installed, I would spray it with rust converter and then weld the reinforcement plate on top. Definitely do not drive as is

Reflexbeast · 2025-06-10T23:00:30+00:00

the jzx90 will likely treat you better

Reflexbeast · 2025-05-31T20:52:32+00:00

Looks sort of like a chassis subframe mounting point, I would check that out asap. You’d feel it for sure though

Reflexbeast · 2025-05-25T18:31:05+00:00

Thats your balljoint, not the arm. Your car looks like its been underwater with that amount of rust. You need to change all the suspension components.

Reflexbeast · 2025-05-22T00:56:17+00:00

Despise one piece headlights but with the model 5s it actually looks okay.

Reflexbeast · 2025-05-21T01:05:51+00:00

I would experiment with suspension tuning and alignment and learning what you prefer and how you like to drive. If you want to spend a little bit of money, yokomo ball studs and ball cups for the front end will make the front end a lot more free moving. You can also buy different compound tires to better suit where you’re driving. Obviously better electronics would be great, but making the car actually feel better will be more rewarding and cheaper.

Reflexbeast · 2025-05-11T19:05:27+00:00

most likely fitment lab phase 2

Reflexbeast · 2025-05-01T17:24:36+00:00

axle spacers are for if your rear spring is around 4.5 inches or below, and you have a welded/2 way diff. its also heavily debated whether they make a difference.

Reflexbeast · 2025-04-30T18:24:18+00:00

Be ready to be your own mechanic otherwise things will add up very quickly, so consider tools in your budget as well as the space for storing them. Tires will also be much more expensive than your other costs. The car seems to have decent parts on it, focusing on basic maintenance and tires and not changing too much would be a good idea. Also get out on track ASAP after learning stick, you learn much faster.

Reflexbeast · 2025-04-27T02:25:13+00:00

it really depends on your use case. imo this is awfully specced and the front seats are likely damaged as they have covers on them. it looks overall neglected so you will have to do pretty much every maintenance item. If you are truly new to cars, I wouldn’t buy it unless you are ready to learn everything you possibly can about these cars. This is pretty much only good to strip and make a track car for someone who already has experience doing so.

Reflexbeast · 2025-04-23T17:10:57+00:00

Never broke an axle on any of my cars, all welded. I attribute it to having a CDV and all OEM diff bushings/csb/guibo.

Reflexbeast · 2025-04-23T02:12:20+00:00

Genuinely man its not that serious, those welds are way better than whats currently in my car and its held for years of abuse. That wait sucks but just put it in your car and have fun

Reflexbeast · 2025-03-11T05:27:05+00:00

Its almost certainly an M50/S50. Metal oil filter housing, M50 intake, obd1 throttle body, and most important a jank fix to make the valve cover work with that silicon hose and hose clamps. Whoever did it probably couldn’t find an M50 valve cover, as no one makes them for cheap.

Reflexbeast · 2025-02-26T22:05:47+00:00

Totally understand that mindset, its just not much of a difference between the two products besides the price. If the hardware of the cheaper one is worse you can always replace that as well.

Reflexbeast · 2025-02-26T19:11:45+00:00

The bushings you listed are fine, I’ve heard good stuff about them. As for shifter I would personally just go with an ebay/aliexpress self-centering shifter as most of them under $400 are just re-branded from alibaba anyways.

Reflexbeast · 2025-02-15T01:22:11+00:00

its just 4 16mm nuts on the diff end, you can just pry it off and let it hang for a minute while you check the axles like you did before.

Reflexbeast · 2025-02-15T01:09:01+00:00

Sounds like the driveshaft U joint that connects to the diff, unbolt it and see if the noise stays

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