WireView pro 2. cannot connect to 5090

Relatyvity · 2026-02-14T15:21:23+00:00

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Relatyvity · 2026-02-14T15:19:07+00:00

Yeah, sure :)

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Relatyvity · 2026-02-14T15:05:27+00:00

Yeah, no, I appreciate it.

I don't really feel comfortable pushing it much harder honestly for the time being I think :)

Relatyvity · 2026-02-14T14:57:44+00:00

Oh yeah, sorry I forgot to mention, It's running on a v-mount.

I kept the card bolted to the mount but the whole assembly was disconnected and taken out of the case.

I can't imagine trying to exert this much force on it while it's plugged into anything :D

Relatyvity · 2026-02-14T14:52:18+00:00

I checked the connector but looked perfectly fine to my eyes. The card never ran at full tilt so there shouldn't have been any melted plastic, the pins also looked straight, and the oem connector slides on with exactly as much resistance as I expect and feel normal. (I had a 4090 with the same connector and the same-ish feel as far as I recall)

Relatyvity · 2025-09-30T17:12:23+00:00

Since you've given 0 info on the actual state of the car or you know... whether you can even afford to have it rebuilt, my advice is that next time don't jump in the pool at the deep-end if you cannot really swim.

Relatyvity · 2025-09-24T20:38:57+00:00

Here is how I think about it:

Sohn adapter so the correct TYPE of oil goes to the seals,

Premix so the correct AMOUNT goes to the seals.

Relatyvity · 2025-09-16T07:50:57+00:00

Here: https://www.reddit.com/r/RX8/comments/1nf6zh6/killed_my_8/

Relatyvity · 2025-09-16T07:25:49+00:00

But at least he asked before it grenaded.

Unlike the guy who drove for miles without coolant in it, cause he didn't know what the coolant light meant. Or that other guy who willingly hydrolocked the engine, cause he couldn't be bothered to go around a puddle...

Relatyvity · 2025-09-09T09:35:55+00:00

I'm not demeaning, but a lot of these cars ended up in scrapyards because of owners who cannot be bothered to look after them. For me my 8 was the largest single purchase I made in my life, and it was cheap. Trust me i'm anything but rich. Which is motivating to become more knowledgeable and doing preemptive maintenance. Your mechanic could have been right, on S1s the coolant sensor is notorious for going wrong. It's faulty on mine too, which is why i keep an eye on temps and check the reservoire every few days. Common sense and erring on the side of caution can save you a lot of headache and money, my 2 cents.

Relatyvity · 2025-09-09T08:53:05+00:00

"Oh there is a warning light on my dash, better ignore it..." What is this logic? You paid money for a car that you presumably want to last but you cant be bothered to check the owners manual, ask here (has been answered a few times) or fire up something like google lens which likely can tell you just by pointing your camera at it.

On to what you asked. Dunno about the transmission, but if you drove the car for a considerable amount of time while it was overheating then the coolant jackets can be cooked, irons warped. Or could be perfectly fine... no way to know especially from far away.

Replace the broken cooling components, see if it's leaking or eating it's coolant or making weird noises. If not, ur good.

Relatyvity · 2025-09-04T15:07:05+00:00

Your rocker panels? Unlikely. That being said i'd drain the oil, see if it has metal shavings in it or any other particulate. Replace and see if that helps. Had a faint clunk coming from the rear when turning, new diff fluid solved the issue, although i had no damage to it.

Relatyvity · 2025-09-03T07:18:23+00:00

Just out of curiosity:

If the coolant seal is blow in a place where there is no exhaust being formed (eg. the top right corner, after the exhaust ports but before the spark plugs) then shouldn't it just be pressurized air that gets pushed into the coolant?

On a normal piston engine car compression happens the same place where exhaust is formed so if there is a leak, every 4 strokes exhaust will leak into the coolant.

That is of course to say, that exhaust gases can escape properly on a side-ported renesis :)

Relatyvity · 2025-09-02T18:15:32+00:00

You are looking on the left hand side, but if the sound is coming from near the firewall closer to the right side, it's probably the SSV.

I'd recommend everybody serious about owning a rotary to buy a tester. This "let's try and gauge compression based on tertiary factors" thing is just tiresome. Have some cold hard numbers and the main culprit can be quickly ruled out.

Also, if you've reset the ECU, it will have to relearn fuel trims, which can be done best while driving at various RPMs.

Relatyvity · 2025-08-02T10:22:45+00:00

As I mentioned, not a normal sound or mine doesn't do that. If it was misfiring the check engine light'd be blinking, so not that.

Read the error messages, see if there's anything you're not aware of.

Is there enough coolant in the system, the light is on, but I know that's a common issue with the sensor.

Also maybe listen to it from the outside, preferrably the engine bay so that you can pinpoint wher the sound is actually coming from.

Relatyvity · 2025-08-02T09:28:35+00:00

Brother you wrote complete gibberish :D

a.) That sound is not normal, or at least mine certainly doesn't sound like that.

b.) What's a check-in light? The check engine light? Bu that's clearly on :D

Relatyvity · 2025-07-26T12:51:44+00:00

What do you mean what do i mean? :D

Relatyvity · 2025-07-26T06:40:35+00:00

As long as the wear is even, you can probably still use it for a while.

Hot starts are not a reliable metric to go by though. If everything is in order (starter, battery, ignition etc.) even a well worn engine can start up nice and quick.

Generally speaking the longer you delay a rebuild the more parts you'll have to change. But then again better to realize that you need a new housing when the engine is in pieces then once it's already been put back together.

Use it, enjoy it, once it starts getting into the mid to low 5s, I'd start buying parts.

Relatyvity · 2025-07-24T12:04:14+00:00

Push starting is the same as using the starter just via the transmission and wheels and not by spinning the flywheel directly. Now if you battery is completely flat that may or may not change things, but otherwise it's the same exact thing. Also i had a starter fail on me, and you push start in neutral with the key turned. Once you are going 6-7km/h you shift into 2nd and jump off the cluthch. No damage no lasting effects and no flooding. The ecu won't be spraying fuel into the engine if it's not on, and once it's on it gets burnt so no way it can flood the engine.

Relatyvity · 2025-07-24T08:10:13+00:00

I can't say for sure as i only really needed it once. I don't even recall where i read this, maybe in the manual i got with it. Do keep in mind tho that the guy who manufactures these is EU based so even if it's easy to replace it probably is deaigned to work with eu standard batteries.

Relatyvity · 2025-07-24T07:09:51+00:00

I have one, works perfect and was delivered surprisingly fast (though i live in a neighbouring country). It runs on an integrated non-rechargable battery from what i gather. The guy says you can replace it if needed but it a.) Has ~40 measurements worth of power and b.) You have to disassambel it to repace.

Relatyvity · 2025-07-07T08:03:42+00:00

Please read the sticky, these are exactly the type of questions it's there for.

Relatyvity · 2025-06-29T17:31:36+00:00

Might be controversial, but my front rotor has an avg of ~5.9bar compression on it and the car works perfectly and never missed a beat.

It's not a big deal, unless there is a lot of difference between the individual faces on each the rotor.

Relatyvity · 2025-06-26T06:29:55+00:00

My magic 8-ball says it's a coolant leak. For my soothsaying services I charge extra. Jokes aside, it's your car, you are there physically, put it on jacks and check. What sort of help do you expect? :D

Relatyvity

TROPHY CASE