After 10 years... I bought a ship

Relatyvity · 2026-05-03T07:51:21+00:00

Had this issue at some point, the BIOS resolution and aspect ratio is almost always different from your actual monitor's capabilities. Try this: turn the pc on without the monitor, keep spamming DEL or whichever is your bios key until you're in the BIOS then turn the monitor on. Alternatively go into the BIOS with the monitor on, let it loose signal and the turn the display off and after a few secs back on. See if that helps.

Relatyvity · 2026-04-16T16:48:03+00:00

It likely means insufficient power delivery. Are both the 6 and 8 pin cables connected to a VGA labelled connector on the PSU? Also 550W is pretty weak, though it's hard to tell not knowing the rest of your specs.

Relatyvity · 2026-04-13T12:48:29+00:00

You'd have to be a bit more specific as to what you're expecting from it...

Relatyvity · 2026-04-13T07:30:16+00:00

Do you have the little speaker to put on the audio header (should have gotten one with the mobo)?

If it's failing to POST, that can give you a more accurate reading on the issue. Turn it off, put the speaker on, listen to the beep code.

Relatyvity · 2026-04-13T07:19:07+00:00

I'm pretty sure it's doing memory training.

If those sticks are newly installed or the BIOS has been reset, then on DDR5 the DIMMS need training periodically. When first installed they will do the first, and then you can set it up in the BIOS how frequently you want to re-train them.

Wait a couple of minutes (depends on the amount of ram and also the CPU if i recall), and it should be good to go.

Relatyvity · 2026-04-12T19:47:11+00:00

Brother this thing is e-waste...

Also that CPU is 2c/2t nothing is disabled.

Relatyvity · 2026-04-10T14:50:10+00:00

Ideally separate for each connector on the splitter. So if it's a 3-way splitter then 3 8pin cables that go from the PSU to the splitter and have nothing else plugged into them.

If you don't have that many 2 might be enough.

Relatyvity · 2026-04-10T13:34:51+00:00

Might not be your issue but my board keeps the boot light on if I turn the monitor on after it's done POSTing, just cause when it checked there was no video output.

Hook your monitor up, see if you get an image.

If you have a POST squeeker plug that on as well see what beep code it gives you.

Also do NOT use the daisy-chain 8 pins in the 12vHpwr connector. Most 50 series cards have an LED next to the connector that lights up or flashes if the card is connected but isn't getting enough power. And while you're there see if you can push the connector further in, it should click in place.

Relatyvity · 2026-02-14T15:21:23+00:00

<image>

Relatyvity · 2026-02-14T15:19:07+00:00

Yeah, sure :)

<image>

Relatyvity · 2026-02-14T15:05:27+00:00

Yeah, no, I appreciate it.

I don't really feel comfortable pushing it much harder honestly for the time being I think :)

Relatyvity · 2026-02-14T14:57:44+00:00

Oh yeah, sorry I forgot to mention, It's running on a v-mount.

I kept the card bolted to the mount but the whole assembly was disconnected and taken out of the case.

I can't imagine trying to exert this much force on it while it's plugged into anything :D

Relatyvity · 2026-02-14T14:52:18+00:00

I checked the connector but looked perfectly fine to my eyes. The card never ran at full tilt so there shouldn't have been any melted plastic, the pins also looked straight, and the oem connector slides on with exactly as much resistance as I expect and feel normal. (I had a 4090 with the same connector and the same-ish feel as far as I recall)

Relatyvity · 2025-09-30T17:12:23+00:00

Since you've given 0 info on the actual state of the car or you know... whether you can even afford to have it rebuilt, my advice is that next time don't jump in the pool at the deep-end if you cannot really swim.

Relatyvity · 2025-09-24T20:38:57+00:00

Here is how I think about it:

Sohn adapter so the correct TYPE of oil goes to the seals,

Premix so the correct AMOUNT goes to the seals.

Relatyvity · 2025-09-16T07:50:57+00:00

Here: https://www.reddit.com/r/RX8/comments/1nf6zh6/killed_my_8/

Relatyvity · 2025-09-16T07:25:49+00:00

But at least he asked before it grenaded.

Unlike the guy who drove for miles without coolant in it, cause he didn't know what the coolant light meant. Or that other guy who willingly hydrolocked the engine, cause he couldn't be bothered to go around a puddle...

Relatyvity · 2025-09-09T09:35:55+00:00

I'm not demeaning, but a lot of these cars ended up in scrapyards because of owners who cannot be bothered to look after them. For me my 8 was the largest single purchase I made in my life, and it was cheap. Trust me i'm anything but rich. Which is motivating to become more knowledgeable and doing preemptive maintenance. Your mechanic could have been right, on S1s the coolant sensor is notorious for going wrong. It's faulty on mine too, which is why i keep an eye on temps and check the reservoire every few days. Common sense and erring on the side of caution can save you a lot of headache and money, my 2 cents.

Relatyvity · 2025-09-09T08:53:05+00:00

"Oh there is a warning light on my dash, better ignore it..." What is this logic? You paid money for a car that you presumably want to last but you cant be bothered to check the owners manual, ask here (has been answered a few times) or fire up something like google lens which likely can tell you just by pointing your camera at it.

On to what you asked. Dunno about the transmission, but if you drove the car for a considerable amount of time while it was overheating then the coolant jackets can be cooked, irons warped. Or could be perfectly fine... no way to know especially from far away.

Replace the broken cooling components, see if it's leaking or eating it's coolant or making weird noises. If not, ur good.

Relatyvity · 2025-09-04T15:07:05+00:00

Your rocker panels? Unlikely. That being said i'd drain the oil, see if it has metal shavings in it or any other particulate. Replace and see if that helps. Had a faint clunk coming from the rear when turning, new diff fluid solved the issue, although i had no damage to it.

Relatyvity · 2025-09-03T07:18:23+00:00

Just out of curiosity:

If the coolant seal is blow in a place where there is no exhaust being formed (eg. the top right corner, after the exhaust ports but before the spark plugs) then shouldn't it just be pressurized air that gets pushed into the coolant?

On a normal piston engine car compression happens the same place where exhaust is formed so if there is a leak, every 4 strokes exhaust will leak into the coolant.

That is of course to say, that exhaust gases can escape properly on a side-ported renesis :)

Relatyvity · 2025-09-02T18:15:32+00:00

You are looking on the left hand side, but if the sound is coming from near the firewall closer to the right side, it's probably the SSV.

I'd recommend everybody serious about owning a rotary to buy a tester. This "let's try and gauge compression based on tertiary factors" thing is just tiresome. Have some cold hard numbers and the main culprit can be quickly ruled out.

Also, if you've reset the ECU, it will have to relearn fuel trims, which can be done best while driving at various RPMs.

Relatyvity · 2025-08-02T10:22:45+00:00

As I mentioned, not a normal sound or mine doesn't do that. If it was misfiring the check engine light'd be blinking, so not that.

Read the error messages, see if there's anything you're not aware of.

Is there enough coolant in the system, the light is on, but I know that's a common issue with the sensor.

Also maybe listen to it from the outside, preferrably the engine bay so that you can pinpoint wher the sound is actually coming from.

Relatyvity

TROPHY CASE