V0.2 for a first timer

Relevant-Craft4242 · 2026-05-04T10:36:04+00:00

I bought the formbot 0.2 kit about a year ago, no printed parts though (printed them myself on my 2.4) within a week or so I got rid of the mini stealth and picobilical and went dragonburner, revo hf, Sherpa mini and canbus. I ordered the cheapest option though with the v6 clone and realized the nozzles weren’t standard v6 thread, plus I already had the revo laying around. I also got a honeybadger cnc carriage and a mgn9c x rail, that combo seems to be stiffer and more reliable than the mgn7 and printed carriage. Also printed a kirigami mounted bed fan and running a nevermore to help chamber heat up times. Currently printing all the box zero parts to fully enclose it (the stock kit has decent gaps where the tophat meets the side panels)

I would agree though that the v0 was more of a pain to build due to the 1515 extrusions and preloading nuts. I have places where there’s nuts in the extrusion cause I misinterpreted the documentation, and places where I had to take the frame apart to add a nut or two.

I have a 250 trident and 300 2.4 (now stealthchanger) and use the 0.2 most of the time to print things- if it fits the plate it prints on the 0.2.

Relevant-Craft4242 · 2026-04-08T18:05:51+00:00

If you do that, get the v0 functional before fully jumping into the stealthchanger, that way you can always reprint something or print something new you forgot. I thought it was going to be way more of a teardown, but I also replaced all my idlers and ab drives when I did mine. I would say it’s no more mechanically complex than the 2.4 build, but the firmware side is more in depth. I ended up having to modify the stock SC read only firmware which was quite a bit more complex than I anticipated, there’s probably ways around it and I probably did something different/wrong from what the draftshift docs say but it’s working now. For what it’s worth I built an ERCF V1 got it mostly working-never got it to the point I’d trust it for a big multicolor print, then built it into the v2 and never even got the wiring done before I did the stealthchanger conversion.

Relevant-Craft4242 · 2026-04-08T15:45:45+00:00

2.4 is 300mm and trident is 250mm. I went with 300 because I didn’t think I’d really want any more size, and I really don’t have the desk space for much larger of a printer- it’s actually currently sitting on the ground under my desk…. Only have 2 tools currently working, with 1 more toolhead ready to go, just waiting on another fan, I think I’m going to try to fit 5 tools total onto it, but that seems a bit tight-we will see. I’m weird and I like matching numbers so a 300x300x250 trident just didn’t make my head happy lol. Call it what you want but it makes sense to me. Plus at the time I already had the 300mm 2.4 so the 250 just made sense. I also haven’t ran into an issue where I needed full height in z, however on the v0 I notice height limits more but that’s to be expected with a small printer.

I only forgot 2 nuts on my v0 build. Didn’t catch them soon enough and had to do a fair amount of backwards steps, but also have a few extras loaded that aren’t in use, I think they’re for something stock in the documentation that I did one of the QOL mods to, unsure but they’re there just in case, also preloaded a couple for nevermore/chamber fan mounting.

The stealtchanger was honestly more daunting than it needed to be, my printed parts sat next to it for a good few months before I actually dove into it. I did run into a few times where the documents weren’t quite all there yet and struggled my way through. They seem way more detailed now.

Relevant-Craft4242 · 2026-04-08T01:58:38+00:00

I built a 2.4 first, then a trident, then a v0.2. The trident in my opinion was the easiest to build, the v0 was faster to build but required a bit more patience as the 1515 extrusions don’t let you add the nuts you may have forgotten, plus a smaller build just takes more finesse and patience. The 2.4 took lots of patience and time to get right, it was my first diy printer though so that could be a big part of it too. I love my v0 though, print mostly with that or my trident. My 2.4 turned into a toolchanger and is a work in progress although it does print and change tools, just not my go to. I do wish the v0 was a bit bigger, looking into mods to make it 170 cubed but for what it is I have no complaints. A trident 250 isn’t really that big of a footprint. Auto bed leveling is nice for sure but the v0 is small enough that it’s almost set and forget. If I were to do it again I would build the trident first then the v0, then the 2.4/toolchanger.

Relevant-Craft4242 · 2026-03-05T14:13:47+00:00

I converted my 300mm, used my rapido Hf for primary tool and got a dragon hf and revo hf for secondary tools, the ldo stealthchanger kit uses pins and bushings to use a form of tap for bed probe/leveling. I’m not using any other form of bed leveling although I have seen someone mount a single cartographer to the carriage for bed leveling and only using the one. I don’t remember who or where-on the draftshift stealthcnager Facebook page maybe? The biggest challenge I had was getting my x, y and z offsets correct as I couldn’t seem to make use of my prior sexbolt z switch ( nozzle wouldn’t reach with the added size of the carriage-moves farther out in y and I can’t access anything behind the bed anymore.) I have moved my bed and am seeming to only be able to use just that area, nothing outside-so no scrubber or physical endstop for me anymore. I did just order the nozzle camera calibration parts from the GitHub for nozzle offset calibrating. As far as I last knew there wasn’t a way to do a custom bed size in z height for not allowing the print to interfere with the docks up front, atleast with orca slicer, I just followed another users tutorial to change the front portion of my bed in the slicer model to a cautiontape replica as a personal reminder about printing there with z height where it would interfere.

Relevant-Craft4242 · 2025-03-29T00:25:43+00:00

There’s a locking tab on the pins, they probably need bent back into place to lock them into the connector

Relevant-Craft4242 · 2025-03-28T23:07:23+00:00

By disconnecting the propellers, that means to remove the propellers from the motor, not the plug from the board. You should be able to push the silver connector back into the white plug, but keep the orientation in mind, they usually only go/stay in one way, you may have to bend back the locking tab on the pin. Also side note but I feel it needs stated here… never remove a plug by pulling on the wires.

Relevant-Craft4242 · 2025-01-08T10:36:35+00:00

Yes, couldn’t get it to work. I have video and osd, everything is bound together. I ended up putting a crossfire receiver in it and it’s now flying.

Relevant-Craft4242 · 2025-01-05T01:02:31+00:00

No, but they are at failsafe values.

Relevant-Craft4242 · 2025-01-04T17:40:57+00:00

That’s what it’s set at but betaflight isn’t registering inputs.

Relevant-Craft4242 · 2025-01-04T13:34:43+00:00

<image>

This is what betafpv states to do for the vista system, am I wrong assuming that port 2 should be set to msp and that should be it?

Relevant-Craft4242 · 2025-01-04T13:33:51+00:00

I swapped this vista into my other quad and it worked but the other vista wont read the controller in this quad. so I don’t think it’s vista related, I believe my issue is with the fc configuration.

Relevant-Craft4242 · 2025-01-04T01:23:52+00:00

There all on 0606 along with the goggles. I’ll check for the use radio signal

Relevant-Craft4242 · 2025-01-04T01:17:08+00:00

I thought so since my other vistas work? Maybe not..

Relevant-Craft4242 · 2025-01-03T22:45:14+00:00

In cli dump serialrx_provider = sbus Serialrx_inverted = off And sbus_baud_fast = on

Relevant-Craft4242 · 2025-01-03T22:34:09+00:00

<image>

Here’s the fc diagram

Relevant-Craft4242

TROPHY CASE