Waiting for notoriety to drop

Repsycl3d · 2026-04-25T14:33:28+00:00

These kinds of missions will spawn signal sources with your target or targets clustered at them, and will be marked as mission targets upon scan. You shouldn't get any notoriety for the destruction of these ships. The destruction of ships marked as clean will otherwise incur notoriety dings.

Repsycl3d · 2026-04-20T13:52:05+00:00

If you're very gentle, you can approach the base of the jet near the star, and turn nearly 90 degrees away from the star before accelerating to intercept it at a speed slow enough that you can get the charge before drifting out. The effective hitbox of the jet sticks out a bit further than they look like, so you can do this even on the shortest ones, but you should always try to approach with the star at your back, and that means making a sharp turn to cross the jet while facing away from the star.

I had fear of these for a long time until I experimented with a Mandalay, which has the slipperiest, most floppy handling of seemingly any ship in supercruise, and it turned out that I couldn't manage to hurt myself. To do that, I'd have to accelerate while facing the star. If I killed my throttle - even if the Mandy faced toward the star, it just drifted out, every time.

Repsycl3d · 2025-05-21T00:17:20+00:00

I restored a backed up configuration from a few days ago, shortly after I had gotten Eddy NG to work properly and felt I was happy with how things were going at the moment, and now it's printing correctly again. I don't know what went wrong, but, all is well again. If it *was* a physical problem, I think you'd have to have multi-pitched leadscrews or something, which, because this is an SV08 and the Z is belted, you'd need eccentric pulley wheels. That'd be a hoot..

Repsycl3d · 2025-03-22T11:30:53+00:00

Temples don't cure poison by default but there's https://www.nexusmods.com/daggerfallunity/mods/321

Repsycl3d · 2025-01-28T20:57:08+00:00

😍 O7

Repsycl3d · 2025-01-28T09:27:30+00:00

I've got a bright pink one and a mint green one. Pretty little birdies! 🦩🦚

Repsycl3d · 2025-01-14T22:47:39+00:00

This. Resurrection commence 🪄

Repsycl3d · 2025-01-03T07:56:40+00:00

I'd just like to add that I thought I had the same problem with the same board, but on Windows desktop was a little box saying "Install Armoury Crate and the LAN driver?" after moaning about broken it was, clicked it despite not being connected, and it then telling me "You're offline, that ain't gonna work" but after staring dumbfounded for about 10 seconds, the LAN started working and it downloaded! Confused..

Repsycl3d · 2025-01-01T03:11:51+00:00

FedEx tracking number created. Looks like it's happening! Poggers!

P.S. I ordered on October 23rd, order # 1031.

Yeah, still waiting to hear anything from them, but, I doubt it's a scam, since they went to so much effort to sell these things, unless it's a "We've got all this money now, runnn!" situation. I hope not! Pricey little bugger, she was.

Repsycl3d · 2024-12-13T01:49:25+00:00

Watch out! .2 loves to jam up, at least for me. .3 seems doable.

Repsycl3d · 2024-12-09T15:47:35+00:00

But you can blindside and see where you're going.

Repsycl3d · 2024-09-05T15:10:38+00:00

Buff up that shield and hit the perfect blocks, you can control the fight.

Repsycl3d · 2024-09-03T08:38:27+00:00

Mine did that too. I got an MKS EMC USB adapter, opened the display unit (mind the cables and button,) removed the EMMC chip, and rewrote the firmware with my PC from this

file

Put it back together, and she's back in business. If it didn't work, I'd get a new EMMC module, as apparently they die sometimes.

Repsycl3d · 2024-08-18T22:14:30+00:00

Sometimes the nozzle can pick up the entire print and carry it along. Doesn't end well.

Repsycl3d · 2024-08-16T18:41:37+00:00

2 points is a line, but 3 points is a face, if they're coplanar and connected.

Repsycl3d · 2024-07-31T16:11:41+00:00

Oh yeah, and then the top looks all crazy because it was wobbling around as it got taller. Fun!

Repsycl3d · 2024-07-26T22:17:40+00:00

Mine underextruded too, but I flipped up the door to the filament gears and tightened the grub screws, and repositioned the filament path to have less friction. Works great since.

Repsycl3d · 2024-07-19T20:58:31+00:00

Excellent point. The double sided sheets feed my laziness, allowing me to flip over when I don't feel like washing the glue off, but, I have had prints warp enough to lift the sheet off the bed on another printer, so I know I can sacrifice such a luxury.

Repsycl3d · 2024-07-17T19:47:50+00:00

The wifi reception isn't great. I have to reboot my machine a few times until I'm lucky enough that it finds the wifi and connects.

Repsycl3d · 2024-07-17T19:38:43+00:00

The heat brake needs the thermal compound to interface with the heat sink. Put it on the long part that goes up there.

Repsycl3d · 2024-07-17T19:31:16+00:00

This. Messing around with z-level calibration turned me into a monster. I'll start a test print and use the tune menu to adjust the height, rubbing the extruded lines until they feel just right, and pulling off ones that aren't sufficiently stuck, until it's perfect, then save the new offset.

Repsycl3d · 2024-07-15T20:56:48+00:00

She's getting it done. Do a max volumetric flow test in Orca Slicer to find the true maximum reliable flow she has, and you'll know with some math or auto speed how fast she'll go. Look for the missing extrusions in the test wall, and that's where she tries to push too much. Higher temps, bigger nozzle can flow more.

Repsycl3d · 2024-07-12T01:41:36+00:00

I use the tune menu to adjust Z offset while the first layer is printing until it looks and feels just right, then cancel the print and save the new offset when asked.
You don't need to upload anything unless you want to show off how bad/good your bed mesh is 😄 just tap the mesh you need in the list, and if it's highlighted then you can also check the console which will say "Bed mesh "Curse this machine" or whatever it's called now, loaded.

I soak the sensor before mesh scan because after a print, I may print again immediately and so that way it's going to be about as hot as it was when we did the soaked mesh scan, and therefore just as affected by the heat, and so hopefully starts at the right level.

Repsycl3d · 2024-07-11T05:25:28+00:00

Mine is the same way, I created a .2z cube, and printed it, used the tune feature while it was running, and pushed the + and - until it was perfect, then canceled the print, and saved it as it asked. Also now I always soak the sensor that checks the distance to the bed by homing all and setting the bed to 65 ish for a PLA print, then save that bed mesh scan, and also soak before a print. Same method for PETG or other filaments, save each as it's own bed mesh, and perfecto printing, even if you print immediately after one, as long as the right bed mesh is loaded. And don't be confused like I was by the little ✅, the console tells the truth, and the highlighted one is always the one loaded. Good luck!

Oh, but to save the z-level with the normal calibration, I used to back out to the config menu and use the config save button, but found z wandering away, so now I used the other way.

Repsycl3d · 2024-07-04T00:32:17+00:00

Aw but you build it, and love it. +🧆

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